Super job and a great joy to watch your work......all aspects from the build, painting, weathering and commentary all come together to ensure that we, the viewers, have well spent the 27:32 minutes in awe of your fine details. Congrats for a beautifully completed model.
Following through to your gallery... You have done amazing job on this Spitfire, and you have built the Spitfire that my Grandfather flew in Italy in the war. I asked Eduard if they could include a Spitfire that he flew in one of their upcoming releases, and they happily agreed. You have really done the kit justice. I am sure that my grandfather would have been proud! Thank you so much!
Your a GENIUS model builder, I am starting again 2nd time around, first time 15, second time 51 years old. Just doing some research, if can be half as good as you i will be happy.
Metodi, thank you for this video. It was a great help (watched several times like a good student). I just finished my Mk. IXc. Guessing you must be Bulgarian this malečki palečki will just say blagodarja.
Thanks for sharing! I've built a handful of models and picked up the Eduard spitfire, hopefully it doesn't prove to be too much of a challenge - it definitely has a lot more detail than the kits I've done!
Its a nice little kit but there are a lot of small parts with the PE set. I definitely can recommend dry fit tests so you can be sure what goes where and how exactly it happens :)
Thanks mate. Yes its better for watching this way but for a simple kit I left out of the video so much stuff...anyways one or two series per year is my plan for now :)
Momentan baue ich gerade ebenfalls die Spitfire Mk VIII. Ein wirklich toller Bausatz, passgenau und mit superfeinen Details. Auch die exakten Gravuren sind gut gelungen, wohl die beste Spit in 1/72. Mein erster aber ganz sicher nicht mein letzter Kit von Eduard.
@@Juno58I agree as well, although Tamiya's engineering is on another level and sometimes the lack of detail in their kits represent how Japanese perceive sacle modeling in general.
Great video as always. The quality of your videos are top notch already but take your time, don't get a burn-out. Looking forward to watching your videos monthly.
Wow, the best 72' i've ever seen. little shame that is not WX D (division 302) but it is just a detail, in general the build is perfect! Thanks for sharing.
That's long and controversial topic, I personally prefer kits that are "perfect" and allow me to concentrate on things different than filing seams etc.
Nice job. Try to keep the black streaks behind the machine gun openings light and subdued. The explosives used in this type of ammo had a very high yield and produced very very little residue. Hence, it took a very long time for the ammo to produce black streaks. At the end of the build you painted over the red patches....... Wrong. Those red patches are strips of red linen tape, placed over the holes to protect the guns. High up in the air it is very cold and condensation could turn into ice, jamming the gun. To prevent water vapour from entering the wing, a thick, strong red tape was placed over each hole. If a gun jammed, the maintenance crew could immediately see which one jammed. After servicing, all of the old tapes were removed and new ones were put back on. Therefor, the red tape ALWAYS looked clean, like new, because it was. So...apply these red decals LAST. AFTER painting the dark streaks. The red linen goes OVER the dark streaks, they were never covered in residue ! On your next model, when you paint the streaks, only paint about 20% of what you did on this model and you'll be fine ! ;-) Here are two great pages you must see (and translate, it's in Dutch) : tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2008%20bewapening/bewapening.html tiethoff.nl/Pagina%2016%20cockpit1/cockpit1.html (BTW... one more tip : I use Revell 310 Lufthansa yellow for the leading edge and propellor tips, the same color as the yellow ring of the roundels on the side)
Fantastic video!!!! please allow me a question , if you seal the results of the weathering pencil with a coat of matt or satin varnish would this erase them ?
regarding the 2 piece cowling in plastic, this may be why: Spitfire Mk. VIII top cowl 1/72 Cat.No.: 672155 which is, as you've guessed, a brassin addon eduard's selling...
@@MMScaleModels Mine is in storage, but looking at your build, the 1/72 seems to be almost identical. I do remember the exhaust pieces are multi part....another Eduard hint to get the Brassin!
First of all super well done for this build and your building skills are excellent. Is it possible to tell me how you set the air compressor pressure to do those fine thin lines and what airbrush needle you used to do them?
Thanks Patrick, I use 0.2mm airbrush for the fine details. The pressure is very dependent on what paints you are using and Hou much you thin them. I usually start with 1 bar and then do adjustments until I find the sweet spot. Have in mind that depending on the size of your pressurised air vessel you will have a pressure drop when you push the trigger.
It's really vague! Apparently the usual was the underside colour but there were also grey/green ones and aluminium silver ones. Seems to be one of those questions without a clear answer!
Amazing job!, your channel is a source of inspiration, thanks for sharing. Just wondering how do you do the white filter, what is the ratio you use? is it the same for highlights and chipping?
Hi Metodi, I love your marvelous work. I saw you cemented the canopy to the fuselage using Mr Cement S, didn't it cause fogging to the clear part of the canopy? Because some modellers suggest me not to use similar product such as Tamiya Extra Thin Cement. Thank you.
Thanks mate, if you are careful with the amount of glue you will have no problems. PVA glue also works well, just takes more time to dry but it is harmless.
Awesome and beautiful work. Two questions. What thinner do you use for the Mr Hobby Aqueous paints? And what do you use to clean your airbrush after spraying Mr Surfacer?
Thanks Sebastian. The H series can be thinned with their dedicated thinner (Hobby color thinner), mr.leveling thinner (MLT), isopropyl alcohol and even water. I use all except water. For finer detail I use MLT and for broader surface coverage i use HCT or IPA. MLT works great for cleaning the airbrush from mr. surfacer. Hope that helps :)
Im verry confused to what type of protection i need for my paintjob, i use AK and MIG ENAMEL washes and tamiya panel liner, what product can i use to protect it? Love your vids!
@@OrgrimmarOfficalVD I have never worked with this clear coat and I am not familiar with its properties. What I can suggest is to spray it paint a scrap piece of plastic as you did with your model and spray the clear coat over it. Leave it to dry for 24h and then abuse it with all the products and solvents you intend to use. This way you will figure out what it can handle and what it cannot. Hope that helps.
Great skills but for me the weathering is a bit over the top. I love the way you did the undersides but the chipping and thick black streaks from the guns spoil it a bit.
Браво! Страхотен модел. Всичко хубаво но имам само един единствен въпрос. Как се справи с процепа на картечниците и тази "бабунка" под крилото, като слагаше декала? мен ми се взе акъла докато го направя и то трябваше да отрежа част от декала и после просто да го боядисам там където е нямало. Използвам Марк сетър и софтър нео. Не знам, кое не правя както трябва но, като го сложих отгоре дори не искаше да залепне от долната страна откъм това пъпче, стоеше във въздуха, колко ли не го мазах. Би ли дал съвет, че ме чака втори Мк8 и това много ме плаши!? :D
Мерси, супер лесно е с декалите, първо Марк сетер, слагаш декала, цял както си е, след това слагаш агама хиперсол върху декала. Изчакваш я да си свърши работата и със скалпела изрязваш дупката 😁👍
Thanks Remo. Yes it is a matter of personal approach but also very subtle weathering often cannot be captured properly on camera so I have to take this into account.
@@MMScaleModels not. need a solvent number from the manufacturer. To understand what you diluted. I am not familiar with this varnish and wanted to understand how to dilute it for an airbrush.
Please forgive my stupidity but I'm new to this I'm currently doing a very old Airfix Supermarine Spitfire model in 1/72 looking at your video your model you're doing is a lot bigger than mine am I missing something but I'm all scales meant to be the same
Couple of things here, first not all spitfires (or other aircraft) are the same. They are different MKs so they can vary on length, wingspan etc. However those are small differences. Kits also are not always dimensionaly accurate. Sometimes older kits are 1/87 instead of 1/72 which makes much bigger difference.
@@MMScaleModels i have a 1/32 P-51 with partly bare metal finish, so would i just mask of the metallic paints, so that i can apply the matte coat over my normal paints?
@@konradalexander7561 I would do the opposite, painting the non metallic finish and then masking for the NMF. I personally avoid masking over NMF as much as possible.
Well if you want to weather the NMF you should clear coat it ... If you haven't watched it yet, I have a tutorial on Painting NMF, there you can see my approach.
