1.8T 914 DYNO prep and Canyon Day prep 

That’s just part of the oil catch can. The clear line goes to the catch can. The lCD screen was broken but a new eBay screen and some solder and it’s back in action :)

@@budgetoutlaws9978 so it’s a piece that goes in place of the cap? Do you recall what company/brand you went with?

I believe it’s from the vw/Audi 2.0 engine. 06A103465

That was the boost controller software. Cortex EBC. I’ll do a video on it, it’s rather impressive

On the car in the video is 245 50 16s on 8s and 9s. I wanted 255s but they were out of stock. They are R888R’s.

Absolutely, fire away and I’ll help where I can or point you where you need to go

@@budgetoutlaws9978 intake manifold - FMIC Pro for AUDI VW 1.8T high performance - £399.00 downpipe - - 160€ headgasket - ELRING Gasket - £ 21,05 westegate - Tial by TriX MVS 38mm style BLACK v-band external wastegate - £101.99 - ? intercooler kit - fmic Core Size: 550x175x65mm | Overall Size: 690x200x65mm - £199.99 rods - SCAT - 400$ pistons - Wiseco stroker/big bore 83mm - £600.48 bearings - ROD BEARING SET, VW 4-CYL, COATED - $86.00 exhaust valves - Supertech Stainless Steel Inlet Valves -£264.99 valve springs - 1.8t Supertech Spring Kit -£515.00 lifters - INA 1.8t 20v hydraulic lifters - £190.00 timing tensioner - 150$ injectors- 300$ fuel pump - DW350iL In-Line Fuel Pump -£194.50 surge tank race shop bg - 70$ fpr fuel regulator - 30$ fuel line - 15$ clutch Sachs Performance Astra H 240mm Performance 4 Paddle Clutch Plate - £306.24\ do i need blow off valve? Ignitron ECU oil pump? performance air intake system? Do I need a new OEM (AJUSA) valve stem seal or I can use an old-current one? If not OEM which one do I need? do i need camshaft? do i need exhaust manifold? do i need cylinder head boldkit? do i need flywheel? do i need coil packs do i need water pump? which turbo should i go with, whats the difference between gt and g series GT3076R? G25-550? G25-660? G30-770?

That’s a good list, intake valves might not be needed if your current ones are good. Stock are stainless. What is your end power goal? And what are you using the car for? That’ll help dictate the answer to your questions.

Valve stems seals are cheap and easy to replace. Plan to replace them. Valve guides on the other hand, if the engine smoked oil or if the valves are excessively loose in the guides then I would replace them. If not, keep them.

@@budgetoutlaws9978 sorry I forgot to mention that. Actually I mentioned it like 5 times until but RU-vid kept deleting my comments because I had links. My goal is around 450-500 and it will be daily driven street car

It’s a Comp Turbo 5356 triple ball bearing. Similar to a GT3076.

@@budgetoutlaws9978 sweet. I’m contemplating which turbo I should go with atm. I think I’m leaning toward the g25-550 or 660. How’s the spool on the 5356

You can see it at the end of the video it’s rather responsive in the boost threshold but that threshold is pretty high. The g25-550 is more responsive by quite a bit. How much power are you thinking? The G25 is based on a 25 frame which is really small so it yields unprecedented spool response. If your looking for anywhere close to 500whp I would get the 660. If your 450whp or less I would go 550.

@@budgetoutlaws9978 yeah from the video it looks like it spools pretty fast(for a big turbo that is). I’m looking to make 500 wheel. So I guess I’ll prolly go with the 660.

@@budgetoutlaws9978 are you still using a stock ecu or a standalone?