1-Ton Jeep Gladiator Rubicon on 40's Build (Trail Review) | Inside Line 

Thanks. It’s easy to get carried away with these for sure!

Thank you.

It really does look very balanced on 40s.

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thank you!

Thanks you! The kit from Z Automotive for the lockers is a bit overpriced, but it makes life easy when it came to hooking up the lockers.

Thank you!

Thanks Jared!

Thank you.

I saw those the other day. I have something else planned at the moment, but if things change, I will likely buy a set of those. Thanks for the note.

It looks like we MIGHT get snow this weekend. But, so far it's just been cold and rainy here in coastal NC.

Thanks Chris.

Thank you! Yes. A 392 would be awesome in the Gladiator for sure! I had not considered a drone video about using it as a spotter. I'll have to think about how I could make that one work. Great idea.

Thank you!

I know the advantages of the J8 Master on the the JK, but I don't know of any that have done that conversion on the Gladiator or JL. I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the note!

Thanks you! The polished look is definitely growing on me. I just hope I can keep them clean!

Good to know! At this point, I think I am going to step up to a hydro-assist setup from PSC. I'm driving out west to Moab in a few months, and I think that red rock will really tax the stock stuff too much.

Thanks! That sounds like a cool combo.

Thank you. It's hard to beat a JK on tons!

Always! Love that place!

Thank you. A HEMI would be a lot of fun, but I am really enjoying this setup. I'll be driving it for Moab, Utah from NC in a few months. That will be a great test of on-road power for sure.

@@DrivingLine That is quite a drive. I live in Wilmington also 28411. I had a AEV Brute years ago and got spoiled with the Hemi and the performance so I am toying with that idea again.

Small world! I love Brute's. I always wanted a crew cab one. When I first started as a magazine editor in '07, I got to be around a handful of the TJ Brutes. Super cool platforms.

I'm thinking along those lines for sure.

I didn't have high hopes for the stock box either, but the scrub radius of this axle/wheel combo makes it very easy to steer. I'll be doing a PSC system before long as well.

⁠@@DrivingLineWould one of you be kind enough to explain what a PSC system is please?

That's a good question. It probably would have been a little cheaper to start with a Sport given where it is today. But, my Rubicon isn't a super-optioned out one, so it's not a huge difference in initial price. All things considered, I would still go with the Rubicon again. The flares, factory body protection, and electronic sway bar are all great features. I can sell my old Rubi axles for a good chunk of change as well.

Wheel backspacing makes a tremendous difference. I never would have guessed that 40's would be even possible without hydro-assist, but this setup works great. I'm going to upgrade to a hydro-assist steering system eventually, but I'm very happy with how it works now.

I've made videos on every mod you see, which you can find by searching my Inside Line playlist. I was planning on doing a walkaround soon, but here's a quick rundown: - JKS 3-inch Suspension with adjustable control arms - JE Reel Driveshafts (two-piece rear) - Rugged Ridge Arcus front bumper -Rugged Ridge winch - Rugged Ridge front turn signals - Fender split - Dynatrac ProRock XD60 axles (Hard Core Plus kit) w/5.38s and Eaton ELockers - AA Products bed rack - 17-inch Trail Ready Beadlocks w/slim ring and 5.5 inches of backspacing - 40x13.50R17 Nitto Trail Grapplers - Tazer Mini from ZAutomotive - BulletProof Mounting Solutions dash kit I think that's everything (for now at least)

@@DrivingLine I couldn’t quite make out what rack you use for the tire and does it require the factory rails?

It's this one from AA Products : ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-9t-iwpR7KQU.html

It's a 3-inch kit from JKS Manufacturing.

Thank you. Mine has the 3.6L gas V6.

It fits everywhere fine. The taillight was my fault. I like this setup much better than before as the increased clearance allows me to take harder lines and not worry as much about the longer wheelbase.

Stock 3.6L engine with no power mods. Works fine. The 5.38 gears in the differentials make all the difference.

Thanks! It's hard to get a Wrangler for cheap these days. At least where I live it is. It used to be you could find a '97 to '06 Jeep Wrangler TJ with the 4.0L inline-six for under 10k. Now, they are nearly as expensive as a used JK. If your budget is 10K, I would look for one already modified. Thankfully, you shouldn't have worry about rust like we do in the south.

@@DrivingLine Thanks for the information! Can't wait to get a dedicated off-road rig!

It's appx 85 1/2 inches wide.

@@DrivingLine Thank you! Much appreciated!

It's 78.5 inches tall. Still fits under a 7ft garage door without issue.

The 3.6L with the 8spd automatic is a fantastic combo. Having owned a few 4.0l Jeeps, I can tell you that this setup is way more powerful. With 5.38 differential gears, it feels great and retains overdrive on the interstate.

So true! If the Gladiator had existed before I purchase my S-10, I am not sure the S-10 would have ever been built! This platform sure does make it easy if you want a solid-axle midsized truck.

@@DrivingLine I guess the follow up question is - How much better is the Gladiator than the S-10? I'd assume that dollar for dollar, the JT cost somewhere around 3x the S10 (probably only 2x if you included hours of labor). I really want to build a Colorado/Canyon, but the JT is swaying me. Plus, it has a removable top.

The Gladiator rides and drives better for sure. More importantly, you can cruise the interstate at 75 mph and it doesn't miss a beat. The S-10 is underpowered. Can it do 75? Yes. Does it like it? No. I never did sway bars on the S-10, so it doesn't handle nearly as well on-road. Off-road, the S-10 is a blast. The Atlas gives it plenty of gear reduction and makes fun in just about every terrain. The initial cost of the S-10 was only 5K, so it was way cheaper to start off with. However, I have thousands of dollars in parts under it. Between Low Range 4x4 and myself, there's a ridiculous amount of man hours building it. If you could find a V8 Colorado, that would be the way to go. However, if you want easy, the Gladiator is the ticket.

@@DrivingLine well, I'm 2 years closer to actually getting a JT to build. Built a house instead. Lame!

I would still start with the Rubicon. You get the better flares, extra skid plates, and the transfer case gear helps with the 40s. You can also sell the stock axles for a few grand, which helps offset some of the cost.

Ok probably going to stick with the 37s would you recommend the 4:1 rock trac does that offer any advantages. Thanks Mike

The 4:1 helps with crawling, but I actually prefer the 2:72 for everything else. I find myself typically moving the transmission into 2nd gear on the trail as first is often too low.

It's from Rugged Ridge. It's their Arcus winch bumper.

The most common problem I am aware of for those running 40s on stock axles is rapid wear from the stock ball joints.

@@DrivingLine thank you for the response. I appreciate all the information.

@@DrivingLine So you think that as long as I’m not off-roading this thing until I can afford the axles would be just to do butter ball joints? I mean it’s not like I’m trying to do whole shots with this thing. I drive it pretty easy I’m just enjoying putting it together. It just sucks because I got to get on those axles before I really wanna take it out into some dirt. I was looking at that set up that you had on yours it’s almost 20 grand for those axles right if those are the same ones. I found a lower model there’s still xd60s But not the pro rock ones. Same company they were going for I think around 11 grand

@@DrivingLine sorry for all the back-and-forth I’m sure you’re busy with a lot of questions. I wanted to make a strong sturdy over landing vehicle that’s good to take for trips and use as a daily driver I’m not really planning on trying to rock crawl this thing I just wanna make it bulletproof for what I’m going to use it for. Any suggestions on the axles I could be looking to get would be greatly appreciated or I’ll just have to wait till I can afford the ones you got on yours. Either way I appreciate your time and all the information I’m new at this and grateful for the work you’re putting into it.

Better Ball joints* haha

I would do the exact same gearing even if I had a diesel. I have a friend with a Diesel Gladiator on 42s and he has 5.38 gears as well. He seems to love it.

@@Ali_Mansour_Editor thanks for the input. Does he drive on the street at all? Mind asking him About mpg ?

@@mattbrew11 he does drive it on the street, but it’s not his daily driver. He drove it to Moab from Arizona last year at averaged around 15mpg if I remember correctly. Considering the elevation and highway speeds, that’s really good.

I’ve been wheeling with this setup for about a year now. The 40’s make a huge difference on the trail. The axles for me were more about reliability. If I just wheeled locally, I probably could have done 38s, RCVs and Dynatrac ball joints and seen how far that would take me. I’ve driven this Jeep cross country to wheel twice and as I am typing this, I am loading up to drive 2,900 miles (one way) to go do the Rubicon Trail. I travel all over with this Jeep. Many times I have my family with me. For me, it was well worth the piece of mind to have stronger axles. I do wish this stuff was cheaper.

@@DrivingLine yea i totally get where youre coming from. Breaking down with the family all loaded up would suck. But man thats just so much cash. I dont rock bash, or really pound mine. I try to just crawl slow until i get it up the obsticle. There are so many mixed opinions on the strength of the new dana44 gladiator axles thats its so hard to tell. I know a guy whos run 38s for over a year and done all the hardest trails in CO during that time with zero issues. Just terraflex ball joints and a lift. For me i think im going to reGear, truss and gusset, get RCVs and terraflex, full underbody plates, and 38s. But even then, ill still be thinking, “man driving line has me worried im gonna break something” lol. We are gonna run Redcone pass in CO next saturday if you want to join on your way back.

Thanks for the invite! I’m on a pretty tight schedule. My wife already had use up some vacation days just for this trip lol. I’ve got to try to haul tail back. I really don’t think the stock axles are bad. Especially with 37‘s. Ironically, I’ve already broken the E locker in my 60 once. I’ve never broken the ELocker in a JK, JL or Gladiator! So, take that for what it’s worth.

It’s definitely a big investment! It absolutely made a huge difference off-road over the 37s. That being said, it all depends on what you are going to do with the Jeep whether this makes sense. I’m getting ready to embark on my second cross country adventure with this Jeep. Having these axles under my Jeep over the stock axles is great piece of mind.

I just picked up some new front shocks, which will net me around 3 more inches of down travel. I know there are longer travel suspension systems available, but all of them will require me to lift the Jeep considerably. Not sure I want to do that just yet. Thankfully, it still rides great on-road and off.

@@DrivingLine I was not knocking this ride just so you know. Super nice start. Thumbs up. We who do this know it takes years to make almost perfect.

Completely understand. One step at a time, that's for sure!