far out videos man !! .. can't surf malibu any more because i live in Holland......but always watch our videos !,,as a kid growing up in calif.60' and 70'.. brings back a lot of memory's
Bro I surf east coast Florida and I stg there’s Finn’s constantly I’ve even seen sharks breach a couple times fairly close to. I usually just catch a wave in take a short break and head back out xD
Here in So Cal the sharks are 6 foot. No big deal right? I've never seen an attack here in 25 years of surfing experience. It's safe. My opinion. Nor Cal that's a different story.
Ralph Collier's Shark Resource Committee is a good online resource. The photos of mangled pinnipeds are sobering. According to Ralph, the GWS turns lethal at 10 feet. Porto is a good place to observe GWS pups. Mako are prevalent down toward Oceanside, and out near the Farnsworth (Catalina). There's also a Mako hole at Point Dume...right off the beach.
Here's why. Because i tore my left shoulder blade muscle and it keeps re-tearing. This injury is very painful. Almost couldn't sleep when laying in my bed. That's how much pain. Reason #2 my wetsuit sucks, so i get cold out there. (Need new surfing gear. Badly.)
Well... this isn't jokey: I've surfed for close to 50 years and remember what surfing was like before crowds. I compare what it's like now to then and it isn't nearly as pleasurable. These days I pass pretty often.
I am a nube at surfing. Had to give up a week ago due to heavy 4sec. period storm waves. My excuse was that i didn't yet have the experience to make it out back... it did try 3 times but noticed i didn't give it my all. Also i didn't know yet you need to have some peddling speed to execute a duck dive so i guess i lost courage after a few attempts. Maybe knowing your limits is also part of surfing ?
to be honest #4 sometimes can be a legit excuse, i surf to have fun... not to fight and get in arguments with people. thats why i dont surf if its too crowded.
It was too crowded at my nearest point break... Luckily all I have to do was driving 15 minutes to my secret spot were there was only another surfer out, nailed!!!
My mate Lachlan is the type of guy to say too small but I went out Because I was bored he rips tho great video mate keep up the good uploads your channel is underrated
I'm to sore from yesterday. Ganna wait til the crowd thins out. To hungover. Tottaly blown out Nonetheless it's all about attitude. It's always worth getting wet unless you get hurt or attacked by a shark
