I started surfing the wedge 1980 when 95 percent most were out there body surfing. The day i went out it was around 20 ft. The reason i went out was i just got back from North shore in the islands riding my gun, it was a Lopez lighting pintail made for pipeline. My buddies dared me to go out. No other surfer was out but lots of bodysurfers. I said ill take the bet but after i surf then you guys have to go out. They had there 5 ft 7 boards. I paddled way outside so i would not be in the way of the bodysurfers. All i remember is catching a big outside that no one else could get. When i got back to my buddies i said your next. Lets just say they had some bad wipeouts. I love how it took off for surfers to dominate this wave years later. My regret is i sold that board not knowing what it would be worth today. But what do you expect from a teenager.
Your a Claimer!!! 8 to 10 means 16 to 20 foot faces ! A chest high wave is 2 to 4 foot but your a boogie boarder that lies on your belly so you exaggerate to make yourself feel more accomplished no you weren't in 10 to 20 foot barrels you're a straight liar
@@boonnathan9827 Yeah Bloke so many Kooks in California they will tell you that a chest high wave is 8 foot. (Lie or exaggeration?) I've been surfing over 4 decades and when I surfer waimea Bay when it was 35 ft faces the Hawaiians were telling us that's 12 to 18 ft that's the true size Hawaiians judge the size by the backs which is half the size of the face .That's how I was taught
Damn I was just south at scripps pier and they where closing out hella fast because they were so big. They couldn’t hold their shape. I would love to try surfing black when it’s good, but I’m scared I’m going to get fucked up.
@@droneshots6192 I mean if you sit way out at the peak there'll be some sets but it's a south swell so right now so it's flat down by the road and 8ft at the peak. Winter is a different story though...
@@matthewmatuszak9034 yeah bro.. im in hb and its been pretty decent here, but south oc takes these swells so much better! stoked!!! get out there bru!🤙🤙
1:47 he's wearing a hood...... in July. Let that be a lesson, California is a cold water spot. FYI for the travelers, coming from Hawaii or Indonesia. It's cold water here.
@@vickryan true I’ve seen guys in August and September wearing full suits gloves booties in hoods then there’s guys like me who don’t own a pair of booties gloves or hoods🥶😆🤙
@@not-a_kook8811 i was once called "accessory boy" because i owned all these accessories. But, back then, i was surfing up in Nor Cal (Humboldt). This is So Cal, i don't think the dude needs a hood on his head. In July.
