I don't know why I never said thank you a couple years ago when I first watched this video... So THANK YOU‼This is such a hidden gem for growing mangoes. No regurgitated BS. Thanks for sharing 🙏
Out of curiosity what all tropicals do you have growing over there? What kind of temperatures do you see in the winters? That seems to be the killer over here for tropicals is our winter lows
I am a new subscriber as of today. Great information. I am trying to grow mangoes again. I killed the first two plants. One of the plants have brown leaves and the other is green. They are planted under a tree with mostly full sun.
I just moved here from Seattle. Someone suggested I try growing some tropicals. I ordered a couple Mangos online. One is growing nicely JP here in Vistancia. 3 others have shipped and died shortly thereafter. If you have a local nursery that sells good Mango Trees you might point me in the right direction. Thanks!! Rod
@@FruitTree Longtime Las Vegas native, Suns fan since 92, and persistently frustrated mango/avocado grower. Doing an experiement where I'm trying some polyembryonic mangos from seed to see if they tolerate our conditions better instead of whatever rootstock is used in grafting. Going to follow your tips to see if I have better success.
Thanks you Brian for all the tips in growing mangos. I can grow mangos from seeds but it never servive past 2 years. I will try adding sulfur and change it locations. I never taste fresh picked mangos before, but I'm sure it is tasty than grocery garbage mangos. Are your jujube fruits rip yet?
Thank you for the very informative video. I’m new to the valley, Waddell area and planted several fruit trees this past fall and early spring. I’d like to also try growing a mango. I need to test my soil, can you tell me what kind of tester you have and where you got it. Thanks.
Great video. Have you seen the mango farm in Thermal, CA (coachella valley)? Also, I'm growing manilla mango which they say is the toughest mango for the CA. I live in Palm Springs, CA and I have a manilla mango. It's doubled in size in one year.
Stumbled across your channel looking for people growing fruit in the desert and your content is great! I have noticed that a lot of people growing in the desert and making videos usually end up moving out of the dessert pretty fast. You mentioned mangos being slightly easier than avocados, have you tried to grow avocados in Arizona?
Such a wealth of information! Always good to learn from one’s mistakes. I just bought a 1 gallon mango tree from a local person selling it. I have it in a cloth container under a shade cloth. The dirt is a mix I bought with compost. I’m in the heat of San Antonio TX. The little tree seems to be doing ok. I have noticed a couple of leaves are getting rusty in color. What could that mean?
Thank you for all the information about growing mangos. I just started to growing mangos first time. I have a question about the first year fruits which you are mentioning in this video. I just found my Cat Hoa Loc tree getting flowers. The tree I brought is 7 gallon pot grafted Cat Hoa Loc mango tree this June. I repoted to 15 gallon pot. Tree grow to 4 feet tall, the trunk circumference about 5 inches. So…should I keep the flower or cut it out? If you could give me some advice I would appreciate it. Thank you.
So who’s dirt do you suggest I buy? I’m having to pot my mango until we buy a house 🏡 when the market chills a little. My mango tree is almost as big enough to pick fruit from with your suggested method.
I planted a Manila mango here in the San Diego foothills. Poor guy is just stuck. In four years it's grown maybe 8 inches. Every spring, it gets lots of growth but it new stuff always dies and falls off. I've tried more water, less water, fertilizer, wood chips around the base, nothing seems to help. It hasn't died, but that's about it. I'll try the evening shade suggestion. It gets hot and the sun is pretty bad out here.
Hi! Great info thank you! Can you clarify about not eating the first fruits? First timer here in far west valley. Manila mango - so from what I’m getting - it will flower then fruit and do we cut it off before it flowers or before fruit or not pick it? TIA
For thr fist year or two cut the flowers off shortly after the small mangos form. This will be past the time it wants to shoot out more flowers and will put its energy to grow its leaves and roots
the main issue is aeration & drainage. Azomite is a bad thing for mango, as too much water soluble aluminum. Phoenix & Mesa areas has Aluminum clays along the old river bed area. Polyembryonic seeds are best when growing from seeds, as they are clones, rather than new hybrids.
@@FruitTree I'm familiar with most USA soil types & locations, as well as localized mineral abundances. Arizona has many variations. I'm familiar with most of Arizona's soil & climate conditions, as well as cold & heat tolerance of many mango varieties. (Naveed Afzal & Garrett Hill) are having best success in giant above ground cloth grow bags. It's very different than what Richard Campbell of Mango Men Homestead does in Florida or what Truly Tropical does. Different environments require different tactics! Azomite has lots of water soluble silicates, which is bad for mango. Growing near cement with high pH calcium from the cement & silicates from cement doesn't help things. Mangos prefer high humidity aeration in the upper root system with it mostly dry & root tips sitting in water. Arizona in the Phoenix area gets 12" to 14" rain, mostly during summer monsoons. Mangos can be very heat tolerant as long as root tips in water, upper roots aerated, plus heavily mulched, with air humid. Misters are important. Did you have a question?
@@FruitTree PS: you might be able to grow (Wango) in Tennessee in the future. Depends on how cold tolerant it ends up being. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-ppUMW-bnc8E.htmlsi=pwLxUpjG6_DPiv-8
All over. Greenlife QC tropicals Russ true value - no longer I have Nam doc mi Coconut cream Lemon meringue Kathy Cotton candy Valencia pride And about 10 seedlings
So don’t water everyday for 30 mins, got it. How often should I water for then, and how long??? What was your water schedule to get those big mango trees???
I live in Phoenix and I planted one polyembryonic mango seedling and one grafted mango tree. Your trees in the background look very healthy. However, now I have heard that though you can grow healthy looking mango trees in this area expect low production of fruit. Have you found this to be true?
Actually, the opposite as the trees grew I got higher yealds. Some more than others. My last year with a kathy mango I had over 30 fruit on a 5 year tree
@@FruitTree Whew! Feeling better about my choice to plant two different varieties of mango trees. I am protecting both of my first year mangoes from the cold. One more question. Can polyembryonic mango trees ever get big enough in Phoenix where you don’t have to worry about it taking too much cold damage? Or should I always keep it trimmed so that I can protect from the cold if needed? I guess the first thing to do is put some thermometers throughout my backyard so I know what kinds of temperatures I am actually getting. The last of the farm fields around my house are going up in homes so if anything the heat island affect will probably be even more pronounced during the winter months. Kinda hoping that I don’t always have to do all this extra work each winter.
It depends on what type more than poly or mono. There is a massive group of trees in phx that get zero protection. Grafted trees won't get huge here. Seedlings are the way to go
@@FruitTree Thanks for letting me know. I had seen a few really huge mango trees from Shamus O’Leary’s RU-vid videos and from yours so I knew it was possible. In a few years I’ll see how my Orange Sherbet mango tree does without any protection.
My manila mango grown from seed keep stopping their growth after about 3-4 months. I've re-potted using 30% sand, 30% peat moss, 30% perlite, and 10% mix of compost, composted manure, worm casting, and myccorhiza. They're getting 6-8 hours of direct sunlight. It's seems to be at a complete halt, and can't produce leaves. Any tips?? These baby's look like they're dying.
I wish I had that level of dedication. I would try to do it every 6 weeks or so. The main source of food was actually constant dumps of wood chips. They break down and works come in a create castings. They also help hold water and micro nutrients
copper sprays containing copper diammonia diacetate are much better for Anthracnose. But in Arizona you don't need to treat for it the temps are too high and humidity is too low. I've had dozens of samples sent in when we had a scare in 2019 and they all came in negative
@@FruitTreecopper is effective in environments that are copper deficient. most soils in Arizona are very high in copper. Some are even Copper toxic. However, many people in Arizona are growing mango in straight organic material, which is already low in copper, with minimal soil aeration, over watering, using Epsom salt. All of which tends to precipitate copper & increase Anthracnose cell division. Such people do get Anthracnose in Az during monsoons & early spring if high humidity in the morning. Copper is far more effective when copper deficiency was the cause. Copper is not a good choice, if already high & Nickel toxicity or Boron deficiency was the trigger for Anthracnose invasive behavior. Growing mango in the Arizona desert is going to take time for even experts to master. California desert is doing well with Keitt' mango a late-season cultivar with dense foliage. But they still have to spray leaves & fruits with an organic white light reflector like paint. They are doing drip systems all sides of the trees about 3ft from trunk. Every environment requires a different method. Cookie cutter doesn't work, unless in an identical environment.
@Pay-It_Forward copper is not high in the San tan valley or in several other places we tested. People that plant in direct soil will have slow growth mainly do to the high PH (8.6 to 9.8) mangos can't absorb nutrients unless they are 5.5 to 6.25 I found. I have experience with this having growing 30 trees to fruit in Arizona. The direct soil trees had 2% the growth the amended soil has. I'm going to take a stand on anthracnose in AZ. It may come in with it but after June it's dead. I took over 40 samples of "infected" mangos and not one of they had it. I waited until August to collect with the humidity is high. It won't survive 110 degrees.
@@FruitTree I'm not saying that Anthracnose is the main problem in Arizona, nor implying that your trees died of it. There is over 600 different mango diseases. At least 60 of them can cause tree deaths, especially if the tree has multiple diseases at a time. Your trees most likely died of Rhizoctonia sp. rot rot due to poor aeration & poor drainage. san tan valley is an alluvial copper basin with massive amounts of copper, it's just copper sulfide & crystalized copper carbonates that aren't very water soluble & don't show up on a standard soil analysis. Yet can be resolved by organic acids & sulfuric & hydrochloric. Plus precipitated again by E. Coli, Mycorrhizae, Aspergillus niger, etc, which produce soil alcohol. I was only claiming that Sulfur helps inhibit fungi. Not that Sulfur is always the right choice for fungi treatment, nor the best treatment for Anthracnose. I also claimed that Sulfur is important to nitrogen assimilation, nitrogen fixation, Chlorophyll-A, etc. I also claimed that the soil is heavily mineralized in many Arizona locations. People in Maricopa county have actually lost trees due to Anthracnose in Arizona, due to doing dozens of things horrendously wrong. Arizona Mango Growers is one of hundreds of gardening sites which I monitor for: lol, entertainment. You definitely know far more than I assumed at first, when I heard that square hole analysis. The plant root mouth analogy cracked me up too. We are talking about topics difficult for ISA Certified Arborists & Master Gardeners to understand, much less the public, lol. I have had these topics discussions before with some of the Arizona ISA Certified Arborist instructors. Roots are actually healthier at (7.1pH to 8.5pH) as long as all the nutrients are water soluble & chelated. Boron & Molybdenum deficiency due to low pH is a major health issue. Nickel toxicity due to low pH & organic acids is a health issue as it copolymerizes Zinc & Copper Ligands, plus creates too much Urea, plus activates pathogenic behavior in fungi & gram-negative bacteria. Quorum Sensing is a new topic, so not a lot is known yet. But these minerals have big impacts, both positive & negative. Iron is another issue. Maricopa & many other places have too much in the form of Ferric oxide. Ferric oxide acts as a triggering agent in "QS" for many gram-negative diseases such as cranker, especially in prunus.
@@FruitTree The important thing isn't pH, it's what's causing that pH & if nutrients are organic & water soluble. If high pH is due to high pH calcium & Boron is deficient & other nutrients are precipitated, then yes, growth is stunted. Boron is always adequate in most healthy organic material. Boron helps root tips make Cytokinin & apical meristem make auxins, plus helps meristems assimilate Calcium for Auxin transport proteins. In my opinion, it's this, plus chelating acids which helped, far more than the pH change.
Hi Guys ...play the Long game and plant a seedling forget about all the grafted plants from Florida... i got 20-23 mango seedlings gotten from my yearly Florida trip. Chemical fertilizers hurt soil and will kill especially small mango plants. I Have 5 seedling CACS / 1 SEEDLING SEACREST/ 2 SEEDLING LEMONZEST/ 3 seedling Dupois Saigon/ 1 seedling Valencia pride/ 3 Seedling Edgars/ 1 Seedling Zinc/ 1 Seedling Juliette/ 4 wild seedlings gotten from a park growing huge wild mangoes i scavenged this summer. / 2 mango seeds gotten from a Friend in Florida These were all sprouted and planted while were were getting all those heavy rain and humidity in August. Stop buying grafted trees they will decline ...plant seedlings and wait till 5-6 ft then graft. In the mean time work on your soil woodchips/ leaves/ a little clean animal manure lightly on top/ woodchips/ compost .. i heavily layer these on my back and side yard in Tolleson especially in the fall...been doing this for 8 years....foot of my soil is black and the rest under that is soft and all my plants are doing great.
Thanks for the comment. I do have several seedlings growing from seeds off of my trees. They are very tough and i think they will be great producers some day. I'm not giving up on the grafted types although i do agree with you. The non grafted will be full size mangos and the grafted will be my dwarf mangos.
If everyone did that we would never get new interesting fruit. Mangos from known cultivars will most likley still taste great. Im aware it's a hybrid but all the mangos in the area are great. Seedlings also grow larger and show the most resilient cold hardiness. I'm not going to put them above or claim it's the same.
Clearly this person saw the size of my mangos and became extremely jealous. Growing them in the desert is a different animal. Mabye this person is comparing growing them in other climates.
