10 - Tenons Anyone? - Review of Mortise & Tenon Options 

You do have to spend some time setting the saw up... blade, fence, etc. But once done, the saw is great. Fairly compact which is Nice ru-vid.comUgkxXh-4_3-ZT1fFWP91ZV7iVqzElr0lEb-a I did get an Incra Miter Gauge which takes some setup as well. The stock miter gauge can be adjusted in the miter slot with a little painter's tape... this tightens up the side to side play a lot.

Wow. This was so complete. Explains terminology, gotchas, and that the strength of the joint is in the long grain.

Just love the Wood Whisperer. Thank you. I've watched your videos for years and you're my go-to for the final word on woodworking. I'm making a bed and this video was just what I needed to dial-in my skills. Thank you!

The hallmark of a good instructor is concise and clear instructions, no waffling! You are an instructor! Well done!

Man, you're videos are just fantastic !!! So well explained, so detailed, impossible not to understand them !!!

This is a gem. I'm newer to the channel and love some of the more recent videos you've posted. When I saw this video, I thought the beginning was a "throwback" intro and then it was going to cut to "the Wood Whisperer I knew". Then it continued and I looked that the date of the video. Love that you've been doing it this long. Thanks for all the great content.

Very instructive. Very informative. Very well done. Thank you for the tutorial. I have it saved to my playlist for later reference for when I am wood working

Just started following and watching your videos. You speak well and have great information, could be a TV show.

Very well done. You are a fantastic presenter and your thoroughness is well appreciated. Anon

Thank you for this video! I used some of your ideas for a bar table that wraps around the corner piece of a sectional table. Pocket holes for the leg assembly would have been much quicker and easier, but I didn't want to see the holes or screws. Downside, no table saw yet. Mortises all hand drilled with a forstner bit and the tenons.... with a miter saw! It worked great- thanks for the info!!

Really great video! Super thorough, full of good craft, and entertaining, too.

Everything about M&T joint, and more, and it just pupped up, thank you. I am about to make my first M&T joint. I wondered about many details, which I planned to search for. Today, I was watching something else and this video came up at the end! Sometimes, I think, I am not that unlucky which I think I am!

Hey if it works for you, I'm not going to argue with it. Personally, I like seeing my tenon span from wall to wall. The wall provides good support for the tenon and makes what I feel is an overall stronger joint. Probably semantics, but it works for me.

This was 11 years ago. Do you feel old? Your videos have always been top tier.

I use my Radial arm saw for cutting dados, tenons, and the occasional long crosscut.. Setup is quick for cutting tenons since the dado blade virtually lives in the RAS. Cleanup with a shoulder plane and a router plane makes cutting tenons a breeze.

My mortise machine makes my mortise and tenon joints as flawlessly as advertised. My tenon cutting jig came from Norm Abrams. I broke down and finally got it 10 years ago. Now, this joint is far easier to me.

That tenon jig is great. I have a Craftex one (same jig just green) It's so fast and accurate. If you don't own one you should.

As always, thanks’ for taking the time to make this video! And I support this site. ~M~

Good job, congrats.please, what's the name of the Band that performs on introducion.

MCLS makes some nice decorative joint templates. I have the mini from Rockler and it is awesome on small boxes.

Thanks for the excellent video. In using the tenoning jig on the table saw, have you ever had the waste piece bind and kick back? Also, have you considered installing two blades in the table saw, separated by a spacer? That would allow you to cut both tenon cheeks simultaneously and give you excellent, repeatable control of the tenon thickness.

Well done explaining i started making tenon by hand

loved the video I leaned lots buttttt how do I mortise a long board say for a door frame?

Thank you....nicely explained in details...learned alot

Bro. That horse galloping sound effect when you said "one trick pony" has got me on the FLOOR!!!!!! LOL

This was a great review and hilarious too! "I'm readyyy!"

Please do a video on the different saws. Things like radial arm saw, table saw, chop saw, and which are better for tasks. Also maybe touch on the different type of saw blades for mortises, metal, softwood/hardwood, etc. Maybe even some tricks to prevent splintering when sawing though a piece or how to perfectly calibrate an angle cut on a chop saw. Love the show, keep it up!

The tenon jig seems more fussy than just doing it with a dado set. I think I could finish a tenon by hand quicker than it took to setup the tenoning jig.

Hi Mark. I embrace all of your advice and I've got a question, if this video is still being monitored. Re: Colliding tenons within a slender table leg. Say, 3/4 inch thick apron and a 2 inch square leg. Should I think about shortening and maybe thinning the tenons? Will this significantly weaken the joint?

So well explained. Thanks.

we need more great videos of yours great information

Does a mill drill at maximum speed using aluminum end mills work for making mortises?

What about using joints made with a pantorouter?

Did I miss the "FestCool" option? The different options were like a "Domino" affect but no Festool demo. Great video!

How do bridle joints and half-lap joints compare with mortise and tenon joints?

Thank you. Now time to try some myself.

you think you can show us how to do a tenon with a ripsaw and chisel the old school way?since not everyone has powered tools,thanks

love your videos marc,,im trying to get into morse and tendoning joinery but i saw the beadlock system at rockler and it really looks like it would be a good joint but there is alot of negative reviews on it,,the basic set is like 30.00 where as the pro is like a 150.00,,can you give me some advice on this system,,,the tendons is really expensive also,,for the amount you get

somw how u was asking my self why a dewalt when festool look so good, then I read it was a repost, im going to rewatch from episode 1, how long can it take me

Hi Marc, would you ( or have you already) provide music credits that accompany your videos? Thanks

Really really good video!!

good demo, good tips

From where did you acquire the tenon jig?

Thanks Captain Safety! :)

Did I miss the part where you talked about the Fes-Cool option?

I am surprised you didn't allow a small gap on bit to chisel (about 1/32") when installing on mortising machine . The chirping sound increases as the bit heats up from use and expands which causes it to seize up and snap bit.

Very good presented

nice refresher. thanks

If I was going to cut some rails for shaker doors with a table saw and a nice tenoning jig… how would y’all do that? My thought is cut the shoulder shallow, then cut the cheeks to test fit. Once I get the cheek right go back to clean up the shoulder.

When you said it was going to be fescool I expected you to mention their domino machine I just used it at my uncle workshop is awesome but super pricey.

Outstanding. Thanks.

If you want to make square mortises and you don't have a mortising machine, you can rout the mortise , then use a mortising bit with drill bit removed, either with the drill press or a mallet to finish the ends.

Thank you. I liked it.

Its come to my attention that pocket holes and screws have been around for longer then a craig jig. I've also found more then one version of the jig, one even auto adjust to the size of wood and sets up the drill stop all you have to do is clamp it tighten the Allen screw on the drill bit coler and pick the correct color screw, its dummy proof.

Can a mortise bit just go in a drill press?

when you make the tenon, can i just cut out the cheeks on 2 sides and leave the tenon the full length of the board? or would this not be as strong? i am doing draw boring, thanks

"Spongebob pencil?" [FURIOUSLY SMASHES SUBSCRIBE BUTTON]

Huge fan.... would love to meet you sometime. Your in Arizona right? I think that is what my college buddy Matt Vanderlist told me. Quick question. You advocated 3/8" Tenon for 3/4 stock. I fought my equipment and could not pull it off. My Mortise jig would not go any closer than 1/8" from my table saw blade. Got to thinking about it and it seems like being 1/16" from the table saw blade is VERY tight perhaps dangerously so. Some other pages advocate using a tenon that is a third the width of the stock. Thus using a 1/4" tenon bit seems like it might be right. I believe my Mortise Jig will work for that. Am I thinking clearly???

Good info.

Very informative video. I'm more of a pockethole guy myself though.

Hi love your vids, just one thing though, On your original vid in this series you showed the domino system on this new higher quality edit no Domino ?

Setting a mortice bit in the chisel. To small of a gap the wood jams up in the chisel. Just right gap little chips fly out the chisel slot.

you should check out the mortising tool made by shop built on you tube it is a nice little mortise making tool and with his design you can make mortises on the end of long boards easy

You can make a relatively square mortise with a Harry Watt square drill bit. Wiki: "in which a bit with a Reuleaux triangle cross section is allowed to "wobble" while it rotates within a square with rounded corners.."

I just purchased the Grizzly version of this jig. Wish me luck, (Grizzly's been good to me so far)

You make truly great videos! I was glad that you were mentioning other types of joinery in the beginning of this video. I don't know much about it but was there a reason why you didn't mention dovetails? Are dovetails considered to be in the same realm of quality as mortis & tenon?

Thank you

Honestly, I'm not a big fan of making elaborate tools out of wood. If it's going to hold a spinning bit, I prefer metal and plastic. But if Mattia wants to send me one I'd be happy to try it out. :)

I made a bed using a Jessem Mortise Mill. I was able to turn the MM upside down in a table/jig and could just lay the pieces on their side and use it horizontally. Not safe with a router, but the mortise mill uses a special drill bit. Lots of heavy clamping and it worked like a charm with no glitches. These aren't made anymore, but I think there's a market for something like this. The domino does something similar but is more limited as to depth. My Domino is much easier, but strong joints on long and large pieces is a limitation. I don't know if the Domino XL can handle tenons that are that long.

great tip- cone shipped diamond hone! Thanks

Keep in mind this video was made about three years before Mattias posted the plans for his Pantarouter. I'm pretty good at quite a few things, but predicting the future isn't one of them. :)

Great video, showed it to my woodworking class today. They had some questions. Where can I buy that shirt? Do I have to use a Sponge Bob pencil? What is the work out plan for bulging biceps?

Can you please do videos showing how to do this with limited tools. Say a table saw chisels a cordless drill, etc... It would be very nice if you did that in a lot of your videos since some of us are just beginners and don't have a dado blade. I do have a cheap router that looks nothing like yours.

Great video. Just wanted to comment on the very 2007 shirt

ACE VIDEO. Thanks.

must ask , apart from large pieces, isn't just using a festool domino the safer , faster and easier way to go?

six years has changed a lot! We were so young! 😅

I have to say, I don't even have a workshop yet, but I spend WAY more time in my mind-Palace wood shop because it's an Escape from current events... When I have a real shop, I don't know if I'll ever come out, because I can have food and wood delivered right to my door.

Ok, what's up with the Elvis side burns? :)

Hey, to each his own, but that's not the method I like to use. Yes, mating surface is important, but so is depth. And you have to take into account the thickness of the tenon board as well as the thickness of the adjoining piece. Once you get outside of a standard small frame piece, there are a lot more factors to consider besides the tenon itself. But I find my method gives me a good starting point.

Thanks for the demonstration. You will find that dados are prohibited in EU

@03:50 bingo, that's what I'm here for. Thank you.

why are people attaching wood to both side of the table saw fence?

So if I get myself a mortiser, I too can achieve glorious biceps?

"It cuts like butter." Butter is horrible at cutting anything!

"Most of you probably own a router" I feel attacked....

where can i get the jig for only 60.00?

Stop screwing with my head, man. It was like Internet Time Traveling.

my idol!!

The lip is known as the shoulder?

Although older, informative. FYI: in Danish.. Mortise = taphul - Tenon = sinketap

Currently allowing youtube to run wild while i work at a computer and listen with some watching. youtube made a good choice here, i hit subscribe right after SpongeBob pencil and subsequent sass, rofl. I look forward to seeing where this all goes, since this video was published 3 years ago haha

Marc, you use to have a lot of Festool products. Are they all gone?

Matthias Wandel·s Pantorouter and 1 minute! And all right!

Its too bad that the festtool domino is so expensive... I really like to have one of those.

Rule of thumb for tenons is 1/3 the thickness of the material not 1/2. I guess it just depends on whose thumb you’re using as the standard.

My kid has that same shirt.

Mark One option you didn't bring up, I was watching Stumpy Nubs channel and he was looking at a dresser that could have very well been made by shakers most of the joints were dovetails if you think about a dovetail it locks 2 parts togather Tightly you might not even need glue to hold them togather you could use wedges or dowls that show and the dovetail will never move. IMO that's the strongest joint. Let's say your making a table, the legs and stretchers fasten togather with dovetails and the top is held on with movable figure 8s and the wood can move with seasons that might very well outlast even our modern glues. Becuse a joint can only be as good as the glue that holds it togather, we don't know if some outside influences will turn our modern glues into mush. How can you study the long term of glues with out the time passage to evaluate them? You cant. We know what animal hyde glues do becuse time has showen us. Who knows tight bond II could be mush in 150 years. We just don't know. But a dovetail will always be its shape. If you look at old Japanese building they didn't use metal to hold things togather It was joinery that lasted 2k years or more with no glue or fasteners. Just friction fit that works with woods properties. Now all this comes to one point, how long you need somthing to last, how well its made, how much time you spend to make it and last but not least there always more then one way to skin a goat. Or is that goose or a bever or deer? Its funny looking at all the different parts of the world and the many different ways people made things and how they have lasted.

Ok, I've been woodworking for 15 years, and have used the routed mortises for 90% of my Mortise and Tenon joints--and I know, every pro I've seen says to either square the Mortise or round the tenon when you use this method. Call me lazy, but I've never done so--There's plenty of glue contact on the cheeks of the tenon that I don't worry about it. Is there some secret reason why we "should" do this step?

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