Very nice router sled. I use a similar setup to get everything square with the strings or wires. One difference I use that makes it easy to see when the two wires just kiss is this: instead of using plastic coated wires, I use uncoated wires. Then I use my little 12 volt battery charger with one lead hooked to one side of one of the rails. The other lead goes to the other sides rail wire but there I have a little 12 volt bulb holder with wire leads coming out of it hooked between the battery charger lead and the rail wire. Now when you tap the rail down, as soon as the two wires touch, the little bulb lights up. I have done this getting accuracy down to the thousandths of an inch. Tom
Pardon my ignorance but couldn't you assure that the rails are parallel by simply using a level between the two sides? Is that just not accurate enough?
Thanks for the kind words. And no, this technique is not quite the same thing as a planer. A planer relies on the first side of the board being flat already. After you run it through the planer, the second side will then be parallel to the first, and of course flat as well. But in this case, we are flattening one single face. You might do this on a board that is too wide for the jointer. Flatten one face and THEN send it through the planer to clean up the other side.
First off let me say I love your stuff! Second, i'm using your exact setup to flatten a large slab of walnut. It works great. The only thing I added is stops to the bottom of my runner that the router slides on. Mine are just clamped on. it's one less thing to worry about the sled falling off the rails. It happened to me. Luckily I had to route enough that I took it out.
I was wondering if this process would work for cutting the tapers on a door threshold by shimming and clamping the stock. I need to mill a door threshold for the front door of my daughter's circa 1780 Colonial house in Connecticut, I have the 2 x 10 rough cut white oak all ready, just need a jig to cut the opposing tapers. Any thoughts will be gratefully received, Sincerely, Robert Tuttle
Thanks for the video, idea for slight improvement, add another narrower board between the rails and the table, attach them to the table or rails so they will be slightly above table top, then route right on over the edge of the table into the these boards. This would prevent possible chip out and you would have no edge clean up at the end.
But wouldn't the 2 x 6s accomplish the same thing if they are flush to the side of the workbench? It would be a taller surface that the bit would come I to but they would still be keeping the fibers intact at the edge of the bench I would think? Anyway it's a good suggestion.
Why not just use an I-beam level to set the height of the rails? This way you will get both a flat and a level surface (which I would want in a workbench) after routing.
That strings method does NOT guarantee parallel rails at all. You could make those two rails orthogonal to each other and still get the strings to meet in the middle. Now if you make TWO X patterns with your strings method, one x from end to middle and the other x from middle to other end, and ensure both Xs meet in the middle, then you will be parallel!
Why not attach stop blocks under the sled outside the rails so your sled won't travel from side to side. This would prevent the sled from accidentally travelling to far sideways & dropping in. You could then run the sled down the rail, move the router over an inch or so then come back, then keep repeating
Thanks for the vid. I knows I is dumb but I don't quite get it...why use the adjustable square on 3 corners - you are assuming the bench is already flat along that first short side aren't you ? Also the string - surely could make it 'kiss' the bottom screw if it was on a gradient in other words if the LH top screw was 1cm higher but the RH top string screw was 1cm lower..... also how do I mill 6 by 2's if I have no milling machine? it is a genuine problem I am really trying (and failing) to solve
sorry my brain is still blown due to this: once you jacked up the top strings you tapped down the left hand (as I view the screen) - but you would have got the same by tapping the other end and making a slope.....
Just wanted to say quickly that I accidentally deleted a couple of comments recently. Apparently if I type a reply and then delete my reply, it deletes your comment with it?! Nice job RU-vid, lol. So if you don't see your comment here, please feel free to leave it again.
Im just saying that I think the string method is more accurate than using levels. In addition, my shop floor is definitely not level and as a result my bench is also not level. A bubble level, in my situation, wouldn't do much for me.
If you added a couple spacers between your router jig rails and the table top, couldn't you slide the router out passed the table edge enough to eliminate those leftover triangles?
The problem is two-fold. First it is difficult to see when you are right at the edge. You can reach it, but obviously you want to avoid cutting too deeply into the rails. The second issue is the fact that you have this monster bit making contact with all of that stock at once. With only two cutterheads, things can easily go out of control. So I was careful how much the bit made contact with the rails. But the few small triangles were removed with about 2-3 minutes of planing with a block plane.
You have it wrong. If one is vertical and the other horizontal, the strings will be separated. You're right that there are multiple settings where the strings will touch. But each one of them will be flat, not twisted. I think where your getting confused in that there is only one setting where the top will not only be flat, but also perfectly level. I really don't care if my top is slightly off-level. But I must reiterate that this method is valid and works.
Yeah I think at some point it's just splitting hairs. The plastic coating is pretty thin and fairly rigid. So any compression would likely be negligible. Or it might be more accurate to say that any resulting discrepancies are not detectable by this goober. :)
It's a mental gymnastics sort of thing. But I'd like to make one last point. The plane is not arbitrary. Most workbenches are mostly flat to being with. When you initially set up the rails, you set them an equal distance from the top of the bench. You make very fine adjustments from there. This gives you a flat plane somewhere close to level. For a workbench, that's good enough. Again, I would never disparage other methods. But I assure you this one works quite well.
You are incorrect sir. If you raise the SE corner and the NW corner each 1/2", the first string will then be 1/2" away from the second string. The same string is connected to both corners so unless physics works differently where you live, the string goes up. This method is not new and while it might not be appropriate for every situation and there are certainly alternatives, your basis for dismissing it is off.
You have to raise the top cord because if you don't the true flat point would result in the strings intersecting one another. They can't physically do that. So we need to raise one cord up to a new plane. Using the cord material itself to raise it up means when the two strings touch, the surface is flat. And I'm not really concerned about level. Just flatness.
Because the bit makes contact with the guide and it's not that easy to push the router in a straight line. As others have mentioned, the guide can be rabbeted to make room for the bit. But since I didn't do that, I left the triangles and cleaned them up afterwards.
I think there is really a point of diminishing returns. This method produces a surface that is certainly flat enough for anything required by woodworking. Just one of the many ways to skin the cat.
It could, as long as you are sure it is straight and you clamp it to the bench in several places so that it doesn't sag at all. As for the bits, that was covered in the video as well as the writeup.
Yes. You can immobilize the board on a plywood sled using hot glue and shims. Give it a few light passes through the planer to clean up the top face. Then remove the piece from the sled, flip it over and send it through again.
I'm not 100% sure what you mean with your method. But there are certainly other good ways to tackle something like this. But it always helps to use straight edges and windings sticks to determine what the condition of your top is prior to doing any work on it.
Not 100% what you mean. The two rails will be parallel and in the same plane. Measuring at each corner then gets the rails close to parallel with the table.
Because a workbench is used as a reference surface for all kinds of tasks. In theory, the flatter the workbench the flatter the work coming off the bench. Or at least the better shot you have at getting the work flat.
Instead of the whole string ensemble to get the rails parallel to each other here's a better idea. Two straight edges. Two laser pointers on one. Two targets on magnets at the same height of the laser pointers on the other. Nothing goes straighter than light. Those rails also will always be usable.
Yikes! So sorry to hear about the accident. I think the best thing is to first take a break for a while. Get your head clear, watch some videos, and get pumped about woodworking again. From there, I would start off easy. Do a simple and quick project. Avoid the planer for now. Get some help from an adult/parent who might know something about woodworking. Just get comfortable being in the shop again before jumping into a big project requiring the tool that did the damage. Stay safe!
I think it comes down to control. I guess if you could get the planer into some sort of controlled carrier it might work. But the router allows you to move in any direction and very effectively control the depth.
And it might also be more likely to sag. i'm not engineer so I don't know at what width the sides actually offer diminishing returns. But only and inch or two strikes me as a design that would definitely sag under the weight of the router.
With a 4" thick top, that isn't very likely. The base of the bench is already shimmed and a top of that thickness isn't likely to bend from gravity or an uneven floor.
You mean it doesn't stay dead flat forever?!?! Damn. Yes, of course I realize that. Anyone who works with wood understands that workbenches don't stay flat, hence the need to flatten periodically.
Some warping can't be fixed. When wood wants to go, it goes. But you can certainly try to clamp it into a flat orientation and see if it takes. You might get lucky.
Yup.If you're comfortable reading the winding sticks, that would work pretty well. But I think the strings are actually more accurate than the winding sticks, at least if my eyeballs are involved. :)
Easier, maybe. More accurate? I don't think so. I guess it depends on how good your eye is. I like the string method because there is a very clear indicator and the system is incredibly sensitive.
Honestly can't recall exactly what I used for this project. But it's nothing all that special. Probably just shop-grade plywood from the hardwood dealer. I always have some laying around.
I would definitely avoid using thick material. Not only would you have more compression issues but also more sag. Thin material just makes everything easier.
The Wood Whisperer , Did you think about putting two additional sacrificial boards flush to the top of the bench along the long side of the bench? They would not have to be very thick, just thick enough so that your router goes completely over the side of your bench top and you don't have those triangle-shaped spots where the round router bit didn't quite make it to the edge.
If everything were level, you could certainly use a level to make the adjustments. Neither my floor nor my workbench are level, so that wasn't an option.
Seriously, you are a very effective teacher. Speaking as a novice woodworker, I really appreciate how clearly you communicate and I find your videos very helpful. Keep up the great work.
I see. I would say yes, it would definitely be more susceptible to tearout. With a nice sharp router bit, taking such a light pass, there is no tearout to speak of.
He said, quite clearly, "Drop the base on top..." as he was dropping the base on top of the sled sides during his glueup. This is how conspiracy theories get started. Though this one is sorta fun.
You would also have to make sure what your planning was co-planner/level to the rails, how could you manage this with material that's not true?? I'd like to hear anything that keeps this process in the KISS process. ;-)
Admittedly, that was my first thought to, like 'what on earth are you doing? With a water level you'd be done before you even screwed the first cord to the beams..' - I guess this is just massively old school :P
MIKE MEYERS excellent point. I haven't used a water level in 20 years, but most of the old ways were much more accurate. all you need is a clear tube and some water. a little yellow food coloring in the water will increase visability.
It's just what I happened to pick up when I went to the store. I really don't have a strong preference for PVA glue brands. They are all pretty much the same in my book.
Well, you sure showed me, lol! I was like...what a d-nocker for using that fat wire...then BLAMMO, the secret wire shim technique. Your Kung Fu is strong, I will go back home and practice.
Bravo! If I make a new bench, this video will be studied again! 99.99 percent perfect video. I would like to entertain what would happen if you reversed your sled on a test piece to confirm. Very scientific! That's bro!
Here is the link to the fine woodworking article by Nick Offerman of "parks and recreation" that was mentioned at the end. www.finewoodworking.com/workshop/video/tour-nick-offermans-workshop.aspx
What if you move that bench where the floor is not perfect? You must ensure that bench will not squirm/twist. Liked very much this video. Researching how to make my own reference surface.
Very good video, still pertinent! So, just to make sure I understand, the reason you went with the wires is because the actual bench is not level on the end? I'm a little confused as to why you didn't just measure the same depth on all corners. Another site (forgot which one) also marked every inch so when the sled is moved forward it isn't moved too much or too little. I like that idea too, but am curious as to the reasoning behind the wire method you are using...v/r Brad
you talk to much let your actions do the talking for you .Less talk more work.NOT SAYING no talk at all .just less.thank you i do enjoy tour videos thanks
I am having trouble understanding the use of the wires. Couldn't one check one board on one side for level, then check level from that board to the other board on the same ends? I'm probably wrong. But I'd sure like to hear the answer.
pls! dont assume mtl studs are true along their length due to the way they are manufactured - go with something like an extruded aluminum form. i like the video > how about making some dowels w / the sled? and a joke . what no winding sticks? musta got a router bit in the good eye aye?
Thank you for sharing this, it is brilliant. Your whole take on generating a 'Reference Surface' has expanded my mind and opens up some innovative ways of sizing/thicknessing . SUPERB Sir.
Great video. Followed your technique for flattening my bench and it worked perfectly. For the first time in years I can use the bench as it was intended. Thanks!
I don't think one point of intersection guarantees that the boards are parallel. One end could be up by a foot as long as the other end was down by a foot. You need two X's. It's a good technique though; I will use it.
Just a thought - why not use fishing line instead of plastic coated wire? The diameter of it wouldn't make a difference on most anything wood. (6 pound test is something like 0.01") Thanks for upping this video Marc. I need to do something similar to flatten a big piece of crotch wood I want to make into a clock. Don't own a surfacer and it wouldn't fit through most anyway, so something like this is ideal in my situation. (Tried hand planes and reaffirmed that I suck with hand tools. ;) )
I notice a lot of dust accumulates on the sled surface. Your router base rides up on the dust as you move across. How do you think this affects the final surface of your project?
I skimmed over several comments below and I didn't see the question I have, so I'll ask. Would the levelness, or un-levelness, of your shop floor cause your bench to twist, thereby making the top twist? I guess it also depends on how sturdy your bench framing and top is. Tks in advance!
If the frame of your bench is solid enough, it should make little difference if the floor is completely flat. If your floor is rolling, as the one in my shop is, you will have to shim the legs to keep the bench from rocking. I have never been able to figure out why boards that are dead flat will twist after you glue them up. I just always assume that they will. I'm rarely disappointed. I'm sure it has something to do with the grain of one piece pulling against the grain of another. Wood is always in motion.
Aye, when we're making furniture, we really don't care about level, since most floors aren't. As long as our legs are the same length and our tops are flat and of consistent thickness - that's the best was can do.
Leveling with the strings does not guarantee that the table itself is level to the floor; it only establishes that the table sides are parallel to each other.
does this work when the surface is cupped, with none of the edges not being the same height and the low point being near the center? Or, is the method fairly limited to a single edge/corner being high?
In flattening we usually adjust two opposite corners, not one. That way the over all thickness is much more equal. and we have less material to remove. I was wandering why you chose to adjust one corner only?
+Bor the Wolf Faster and easier to be accurate the way shown. No matter how you do it you will end up removing the exact same amount of material, as long as you set the depth to the lowest point to start.
My other suggestion is a simple one. I build hot rods for a living, and when I block sand a car I use a dry guide coat (found at your local auto parts store that sells paint). 3M makes the best. I keep a jar of it when I am doing work like this, too. It comes with a soft pounce pad, and is just a dry graphite or charcoal powder. It's a lot easier and quicker to apply over large surfaces than pencils, and is much easier to see. It also sands off easily whereas pencils can embed in softer woods.
Is there someone out there who have used this type of jig but with a hand held planer instead of a router? The sled would have to be made in a different way.
Excellent technique. To eliminate those triangle remnants on the outer edge, attach a 2-3" wide strip of 1/4" hardboard to your rails. Attach the hardboard to the side of the rail that will lay up against the edge of your bench (as a spacer), ensuring the strips are set below the surface of the bench. This allows the bit to completely pass over the surface of your bench.
