Agreed! It makes a huge difference. The practice method that really worked for me was using a piece of paper and creating medium size dots or lines then doing smaller ones just to get the practice in before shooting the model. It really helps with your patience & precision (honing in that muscle memory), esp when doing multiple colors/highlights.
Vince, as ever, wonderful, practical, helpful content. Thanks so much for joining with us on this. All of us involved in this effort really appreciate your help.
Was looking for a new Airbrush, and these two are just beautiful pieces of art. Thanks Vince for making me aware, and thanks HS for your support for the Ukraine.
Ukraine was taken over by western-funded neonazi terrorist groups in 2014 (the original invasion) and have been killing and terrorising Russian-speaking Ukrainians in Donbask ever since. Funny how no one was interested “helping civilians” then.
@@ObjectiveMedia Thank you for your comment. I hope that you do not mind if I admit that we do not understand all the politics and history, and I am sure that we are unaware of many things. This is why we choose to make the focus of this about helping children. H&S has been involved with children's charities for many years, so this is in keeping with our previous work. We would like to be a friend to artists of any nationality. I hope this clarifies what is important to us better for you.
@@harderairbrush yes thank you I appreciate you taking the time to reply and I apologise if I came across as harsh but I just assume pro-Ukraine political propaganda because it is everywhere right now. Very frustrating! Worthy cause children and animals do not deserve to suffer ✌️
I know it be a good airbrush coz I has the squidmar one that very similar 🥰🐶 much better seeing proceeds go direct to helping, unlike the billions sent by gov 🥰🐶
A response from H&S regarding the technical features: "Regarding the airbrushes - the Squidmar is essentially an up-featured Evolution, whereas the Kyiv Infinity is an up-featured Infinity. Emil’s airbrush was up-featured with the Fineline head system, so this is the same for both airbrushes, but the back end is really where the differences lie. The Infinity has the trigger tension adjuster which allows you to really finetune your trigger feel and pull, and of course there is the memory function Quick Fix. This allows you to dial up a trigger setting, then if you wish, to release it completely to allow a full trigger pull to clear a needle tip for example, but then when you press the button in again on the QuickFix memory function, your previous trigger setting is back in play precisely as it was before. It’s a real game changer to fine work and really supportive for those last details during the make-or-break last highlights! Of course, with the Kyiv Infinity being built with an aluminium chassis, it is much much lighter in the hand than the Evolution. This IS a matter of taste. Some really like the weight of the non-aluminium airbrushes, but some swear by the light ones for longer painting sessions." I've also noticed that Squidmar has a built-in pressure valve in the handle while Kyiv doesn't. Hope it helps if anyone had questions. How I see it, I'll pick up Kyiv with the 0.2 mm nozzle for long sessions of very fine work, and keep Squidmar with the 0.4 mm nozzle and tightened pressure valve for priming, varnishing, and broader strokes with more viscous paint, reducing the need to change compressor settings.
Thanks for sharing that, Paul. By the way, your special Squidmar air valve will fit your Kyiv, if you want to try it out. Your idea of how to use them together is perfect. However, also, do try that 0.4mm on the Squidmar with a VERY restricted airflow (so low that you almost cannot hear it)... It will deliver texture effects and fine stipples with a level of control and directional accuracy that is really special.
I'm trying to learn the airbrush, can you give me more detail on what the tightened pressure valve does? I was under the impression that for priming I'd want relatively high pressure to increase the flow through the airbrush, both to more completely atomize the paint and give a smoother finish and to allow a wider area dispersal for better coverage.
Vince, you have long been my living encyclopedia of painting techniques. I feel like you've really taken your instruction to the next level, lately. Thank you.
Got my harder and steenbeck recently from CK studious. This is a wonderful tool. Amazing control. The way the needle is manufactured in the .4 with its extra taper makes a huge difference. You get the benefits of smaller needles with out the hassle of a smaller needle set up. The trigger control is incredible
Really pleased to be able to pick up one of these airbrushes and support the cause. One minor note (that I actually only learned last year): saying "the Ukraine" originates from when it was still a Soviet region (like saying "The South" or "The Midwest" in the U.S.). Russia has continued to call it "the Ukraine" in an effort to undermine the country's sovereignty. Calling the country just "Ukraine" not only identifies them as an independent nation, but also pisses off Russia! 😃 Win-win! Thanks for the as-always great video. 🎨🖌❤
Used even before the USSR. It is, was, the borderland, Polish, Russian and Turkish. Like everything else and the name changes, some take it very seriously.
I mean Kiev has been part of Russia since the 1600s long before the USSR (both the Ukraine Soviet Socialist Republic and the Union of Soviet Socialist Republic) and modern politics comes into it (just inconvenient in the modern times) so contextually that makes sense.
Hey Vince, I did a class with you before the plague and I just wanted to thank you for making this video because it put me back on the right track with a lot of airbrush basics and saved me a great deal of frustration!
I just got my first airbrush after painting minis for about 5 years. Your videos made my first real experience with one an absolute delight. Only did a black prime and a basecoat just to test it. But 0 clogs and an extremely smooth experience. I can't thank you enough
I am preaching all the time that people would need to dilute the paint more for airbrushing, now whenever I get into argument again I will send them your video to prove my point :)
Hello, I have another question, it may be basic but I don't find a clear answer. When painting, when is time to make a pause, to unload the cup and not having dry paint at the end of the needle? I heard somewhere to paint 3 minutes, then clean the cup and needle, then again you can go for 3 minutes. I'm doing that but it's really tedious, is it the right workflow? Thanks by advance, and thanks for the videos, as always :)
Depends on the paint and your local humidity, but with thin paint like here, you should be cleaning the tip regularly with a wet sponge and dumping the cup at most every 8-10 minutes, faster if you can. But you could go 5 pretty easy.
I really want to speed up my brush painting with a good quality airbrush for glazing, shadows, highlighting. My friend recommended me the new H&S ultra 2024 but i am afraid of the 0.45 nozzle. Do you think i can work on the smaller details like you on the video with this nozzle size?
Hey, Vince! Thanks for another great video! And thanks for your kind words about my motherland, Ukraine! I'd like to ask you a question. As many other guides recommend, I use the next actions order: press trigger down (to release air) -> pull trigger back (to release paints) -> release trigger forward (to stop painting) -> release trigger up (to stop air). As far as I understand, this sequence of actions is necessary to prevent of getting paints into the air channel. When I dilute my paints to the consistency of a milk and load it into the airbrush, after releasing the trigger some paints remains are collected on the needle tip as a drop of liquid and when I press trigger to release air flow it "spits" that drop on my model with annoying drips. To avoid spoiling my previous painting I have to direct airbrush on paper towel, then press trigger down (to rid of that drop of paint), after that aim it on a model where I want it to paint, and only then pull the trigger back to release the paint. Otherwise, just remove the drop of paint from the needle by paper towel. For sure, during the painting session you have to press trigger hundreds of thousands of times and it's definitely weird and wrong, but I can't understand why is it happen so? You can see something similar on 5:53 in this video. Can you tell what I am doing wrong? Why this drop of paint collects on the needle and how to solve this issue? I'm using H&S Evolution Silverline and it is in a good conditions. No clogging issues, all parts are tightened well, trigger and needle move softly. Thank you in advance!
One of the keys is to get more smooth in that motion, the less time you have the less that will happen, you can also always just start and stop off the miniature. Sadly, it will always be a threat to some degree, but if you’re working thin, it won’t really matter. Perfect shouldn’t be the enemy of good. :)
Hi Vince, once again, thank you for your content which is, as always helpfull. One question, how could I avoid accumulation of paint in the recesses, especially with white inks used for zenithal (Airbrush H&S évolution CR+). In advance thank you.
It's basically a trigger control challenge, you need to lighten up on the pull and the air, you could also just turn down the air pressure, that can help aleviate it.
This is the way Angel Giraldes and Marco Frisoni are using the airbrush. And I have been trying to use it this way for some time...but I lack the trigger control needed for this. I have a H&S Evolution (without Airflow Control)...do you think an Infinity with the Airflow Control would help?
The airflow control can really help, it can make sure you just can't move the trigger back, but ultimately, practice is the best policy, especially when combined with a grip like I show here.
With my infinity I feel like i need to thin it so much and crank the PSI-30-40 to get it to come out. Otherwise it clogs so easily. .2mm needle, vallejo air paints with vallejo thinner. Any thoughts? love your videos, thanks for sharing.
Well, in general, you want to work very thin, as you saw here, if you're not getting good flow, then thinner is correct, generally you want to work very thin and build up. That being said, a little flow improver in your thinner mix is a good element as well, my mix is 80% thinner, 20% flow improver.
Beautiful job, great video, quick question (I'm going to try out thinning my paint as you did) what air pressure do you run when doing minis? I usually paint much bigger scale, but due to the hobby sucking me in I want to spray smaller lol. Thanks.
Still struggling to stop spider webbing, 9:1 ratio and barely any needle movement, all at 18psi. This is on a 0.15 needle h&s infinity. Any thoughts, I am in U.K.
It's tough, it really takes a great deal of practice. That being said, as youre getting that trigger control and distance down, you can always lower the PSI to something like 10, that can mek it easier.
Hi Vince, do you have any thoughts on how things pre-mixed air paints like Army Painter or Vallejo are compared to what you’re recommending for this kind of work? Would you add thinner to those? Thank you!
What paint should you avoid putting in your airbrush? I got some fluorescent paints from scale 75 which are very 'gel' like and thick which I assume would be terrible in the airbrush?
When I thin my paints drastically, it applies almost like a wash. But... If I don't thin it that much, I clog, even with your cleaning tutorial. Any idea what could be doing wrong
Too much air pressure. If you saw here, I am just barely rocking that trigger, (I mean barely, no less than that, no less than that ;) ) - That is the key, that trigger control, but you can also manually lower your PSI to something like 10.
I unfortunatelly do not have much time actually to paint but as soon as I can I will try that ! time to get beyond the basecoating ! great video thank you very much
Is the thinner just thinner, or is it your 80% thinner 20% flow improver you use for priming? I primed with your advice last week, it went very very well!!!!
Love the content vince! Is it just me or is the volume on this video quite low? Especially during the Airbrushing segments. I feel like you might want to turn up the sound a smidge Vince. Just a friendly suggestion!
Regaring triggercontrol I thought you were supposed to push down to get air out, pull back to get paint out, push forward to close off paint and release trigger to close off air. Otherwise you would get a paint spat next time you paint if you’d just released the trigger. Here it looks like you push down and pull back simultaneous in sort of diagonal way. Can you comment a bit more on that? Best regards Peter.
Sure, that's just time and practice, I have tuned my trigger control that I can move diagonnally and still get that fine control. My best advice is to do exactly as you say, especially when starting out.
Hi Vince. Thanks again for a great video. This is not exactly the right forum. But since I haven't been able to contact H&S, I thought I'd post here in case they happen to check in. I attempted to order one of these airbrushes but during the checkout phase I keep being redirected back to the beginning of the checkout phase where it asked me to reenter my credit card payment information. It's become an infinite loop. I got put in a different infinite loop when I click on the contact link on the website so I'm not sure if it's their website or if it's my device or browser. My guess is that it's their website converted to mobile is somehow not working correctly. I just thought they should be aware of the issue since I'm one customer who hasn't been able to order a product there may be more. Thanks again!
I am very beginner when it comes to airbrushing. I have h&s ultra. It's much better than the budget one I used to have, but I still can't achieve precision when it comes to trigger operation. It's more likely my fault than the airbrush or inappropriate dilution of the paint. I'm wondering whether it's worth investing in Kiyv or whether it's better to learn the technique
In general, the tool you have should be sufficient, it's likely just practice, but it's a difficult learning curve to get the exact control down. In the meantime, you can always try lowering the pressure some.
Thanks for sharing so much of your experience and the constant encouragement. Does the compressor you use with the air brush matter? I have a tankless master very cheap compressor. Should I invest in a replacement with this airbrush?
Awesome video. I had been thinking about stepping up to an H&S airbrush and this tipped the scales. The cost actually goes down if you are in the US and the shipping was very reasonable. I also liked that they had a dark (black) color scheme since I wasn't too thrilled about a pink airbrush. Given the quality of the product, the very reasonable price and the fact that this is helping someone made this a very easy decision. Thanks again.
@Vince, I’m pretty new to airbrushing and have a question about general trigger usage. I’ve seen videos that emphasize always pushing the trigger completely forward before releasing the airflow to avoid clogging. For the “rock and spike” method at 6:20, it looks like you’re stopping the airflow at times with the trigger still pulled back a bit. Is that right, or are you still going forward past the nozzle cut-off point before you release? I ask because the technique you’re using above looks more natural and controllable than ramping the paint flow up and down every time…but I’m scared of clogs (and scared to take my Patriot 105 apart to clean it!). Also, my Patriot 105 has a very short trigger depression range…maybe 1/8 inch if that. Is that normal? Am I missing an adjustment screw somewhere? Thanks!
You're not going to clog a 105 very easily, it has a large nozzle. You don't really need to follow that exact trigger disicpline, you will cut the air and such at a certain point. I think the way I work it feel more natural. Yes, that is pretty normal for range, you can extend it, but different airbrushes will have different gives. The journey of trigger control is finding the control in that space.
Been eyeing an infinity for a few months, waiting for money. Pulling the trigger now though because imma get one eventually and ita a good cause. Having some issues with the check out process but very excited for a good fine airbrush
Very helpful video, especially as the day before I watched this one I was watching an Angel Giraldez video about airbrushing skin that wasn’t nearly as enlightening. He was jabbing his airbrush at the model repeatedly and, to be honest, I still don’t understand why this motion is necessary even though you are doing so as well in this one. The rest of your video was very clear, though. I’ve been airbrushing for at least 5 years, but not at an expert level or anything, so I always appreciate any tips I can pick up along the way. Going to practice your thumb and finger technique. If you can explain the jabbing motion with the airbrush towards the model, I’d appreciate it! :-D
It's shortening the cone, remember, your airbrush is producing a cone, the farther you are, the wider the end of the cone, so Angel (and myself here) are pushing forward as the paint is coming out, then pulling back as the paint is stopped and just the air is sprayed to dry the area under lower pressure.
Hey Vince, as always super useful videos! I improve quite a lot watching your airbrushing videos. Currently using an Iwata Neo, with 0.35 needle, I am looking to start doing detail work and more thing with my airbrush and looking for a better quality one, and leaving this one for basecoats and priming. I am aiming for the Infinity CR Plus. What would you recommend or is there any difference at all between the 0.15 needle or the 0.2. Which one should I go for? Thanks very much!
If it's breaking that quickly, something isn't right even if you're using straight water to thin. Make sure the thinner and paint are compatible. Tamiya, and I'm sure others, make alcohol based acrylics and using the thinner for water based acrylics with those or the thinner for those with water based will completely wreck what you're doing. If that isn't the problem, it's still possible that the paint doesn't like the airbrush thinner. Rule that out by using just water, with just a touch of flow aid and medium added. If it's still breaking, I'd quit using that paint in the airbrush.
I apologize if this was asked elsewhere. I've been following your airbrush Hobby cheating videos, they have been very helpful for me to improve my airbrushing experience. In this you mentioned getting close and the spidering effect if you're using too much air. What do you run your PSI at for your airbrush? I use about 20 but I cant go nearly that close without spidering. Even if I'm barely touching the trigger.
Vince, I am struggling mixing offwhite/ivory in the airbrush. Would it be smarter to premix it, and what mixing ratio should I use? Thank you a lot for all the tips and tricks on your channel! :)
Sorry if this is the wrong video, I've watched a TON of yours recently and don't have time to rewatch 5 hours to make sure it was this video that had THE ABSOLUTE GAME CHANGER OF A TIP! "Hold your airbrush with your thumb under the lever to better control the airflow". Just airbrushed within inches of a model without spidering, spluttering, overflow, excess, or any other dumb problems. THANK YOU!
Depends on primer. Most primer works best not thinned sprayed at about 28psi. Most primer is thin enough. I would say no more than 10 parts primer to 1 part reducer. Reducing does give you more material to work with if you are looking for cost effectiveness
1) Vince, your endorsement left me shaken 2) all these context building tips were very useful to hear (after lots of airbrush fumbling and struggles. Thank you.
Question should i get a solo airbrush if I plan to start using oil washes? Here I am thinking ala what the youtuber grimdark Compendium is doing. From what i am told mineral spirits is pretty hard on the coating and the rubber in the airbrush. So maybe a cheaper airbrush is the key here, just as you don´t want to use your expensive sable brushes for metal paint you don´t want to use your expensive airbrush for the oil paint.
A airbrush you may want to look into is a badger 105. It is pressure fitted so it is all metal with the only seal being the needle bearing that keep things from going into the handle. Also the parts are cheap and the nozzle isn't the size of a grain of rice. So if you accidentally drop it on the carpet it will not be lost forever.
A well machined airbrush shouldn't really have much trouble with those white spirits. That being said, a cheap airbrush, like a lower end Iwata or something (or even just a crappy master) if you're just blowing that through and that alone is fine.
Hey Vince. Not sure where to ask this but is varnishing after an airbrush phase almost mandatory? It seems that whenever i go in with thin coats of airbrush, specially heavily diluted paints, then going over with for example a glaze with a brush, it takes off the airbrush layer, like water essentially melting down the thin coat. Is this normal and the solution is only thicker paint or varnish to make a save first? Thanks a lot.
@@VinceVenturella Huh, it shouldn't? I was following your various examples of 8:1 (vallejo MC) dilution tutorials for glazing with airbrush and after those layers dry, if i go over with a regular brush glazing, it sometimes smears off the previous airbrush layer (got forbid that i try to erase a mistake with just a moist clean brush, that's insta rip). Am i missing something? Cheers.
Loved this Video Vince. I have bought an Infinity CR Plus to.paint like Sergio Clavo, but I just couldn't get past the spider webs. This video has just made it click for me. Thanks so much!
Welcome, glad to have you along on the hobby journey. I sure do, the beginner playlist has everything you need including a full primer breakdown. You don’t really want to use gesso as primer at this scale, too much mass.
A little confused. At one point you say if your airflow is too high, you can use the stop on the back to limit that. Isn't that to limit the amount of paint (pulling back) as opposed to limiting the airflow (pushing down)? Pulling back has nothing to do with airflow right?
Typically prethinned don't need lots of reduction. I'd go no higher than 1 part thinner to 10 parts paint. The inverse of what Vince did. Thinning paint is a learned skill. Not all paint lines are similar viscosity, hell 2 colors from same manufacturer can by a strange circumstance can be different viscosity.
Sure, but again, there is no single standard other than thin more - it's about the effect you want, so I might range from 6 to 12 drops of thinner depending on the goal.
Hi Vince, thank you for this video, always learn something new from you so thank you! May I ask what paints you are using on this miniature as that red is gorgeous!
Brilliant almost immediate positive results following your advice Specifically regarding the ratio of paint to thinner, which I would never have done I;m going to need more paint thinner! I've struggled to enjoy using my airbrush because the results have never been good.That or the bloody thing keeps blocking. But with Atom Smasher's advice on how to keep it clean and your advice on how to use it I'm more confident to experiment now. Mind you I only tried it on terrain but it looks great. Thanks Vince
Just occurred to me though I knew it already but really looking at it..... my God Vince does love collecting paint from all companies and colors lol. The addiction is real haha. To have all that choice in paint would be amazing!
This is a great video. I always start with running a bit of flow improver through the airbrush, think I learned that from you. Never really managed to clog it up yet. Many others use a lot less thinner like they are scared of it but isn't it better to thin more than less? We can always do one more layer. Noticed the thumb and was going to ask about it 😊 Really good idea and I will try it because I pull the trigger to far back 👍
It's better to use the right amount of thinner for what you're trying to do. Thinning too much has it's own set of problems that you'll end up fighting rather than focusing on your technique and trigger control. Thinning correctly is part of learning different techniques and expanding your capabilities with the tool no different than learning how much to thin for layering and glazing with a regular brush.
Less is more. Thin as much as you need to for the job. If you are priming a large model like Gundam or a 40k Landraider you won't need to reduce that much as you will be spraying from 3 inches away at around 25 to 30 psi. Obviously for smaller detail you would move in closer and drop psi to 15-20. I spray Stynylrez primer through my Patriot at 30psi without needing to thin it down.
Great video and great instruction. Love this format and always the return to basics always, always, always helps! I do the same process with a larger needle(.4 or .35and half the thinning((5to7 drops). I didn’t hear your tank or air pressure? I very between 18 and 25. I assume the same with the 2 needle. Please confirm. Thanks again!! Duh!!! Missed the caption!! 18psi!! Rofl!! Thanks!!
Harder& Steenbeck have a customer for life after the way their customer service treated a recent problem i had. Not only do they have high quality products they have the customer service to match. This info only reaffirms my love for this company.
I don't think my masters airbrush has trigger sensitive air flow, only paint/needle release. The air mechanism always seems to be either off or on, with no control or modulation to it. (Outside of compressor psi) Still got a way to go with the basics though first before I look at upgrading to a more advanced tool. Great video as always, can always benefit from more tips and advice to reinforce lessons.
Pulling the trigger back only controls paint flow on the Infinity as well. You can control the air flow somewhat by how much you depress the trigger, but that takes a ton of fine motor control and practice. Pretty much everywhere Vince said "airflow" he was talking about paint flow.
I think you may want a "2 stage" not too sure if thats the technical name. But you depress the trigger and it air only and pulling back allows paint to flow and ofcourse the further back you pull the greater the flow. Ive found the cheaper ones tend to be only air/paint not the two stages. Guess some high end models do as well. You may want to get the badger pateiot 105. Its been my go to for a long while. Easy to learn,clean and assemble/disassemble. Very reasonably priced. Order an extra fine needle with it and skys the limit on what you can do.
Great vid Vince. The biggest suprise is that so few people actually talk about the importance of trigger control in YT vids when it comes to airbrushing. I'd also suggest people looking at Sergio Calvo or Angel Giraldez vids to see more examples of this trigger control at work.
I've tried thinning 10:1 at 18 PSI but the paint just comes out as water. I've spend hundreds of dollars on airbrushes, compressors, moisture traps, thinners, and paints as well as hundreds of hours of practice. I see this tool touted as a powerful piece of equipment to make model painting better but all I've experienced is endless frustration and ruined models that require stripping and repainting. For new hobbyists please, I'm begging you, avoid this tool and stick with a brush and wet palate. You will save time, money, and actually enjoy the hobby instead of resenting it.
Well, in general, I don't recommend the airbrush until the 6 month mark. But let's get into this. What airbrush are you using? Also, how much are you depressing down or pulling back the trigger. As you saw here, I am just barely moving the trigger. That kind of trigger control does take practice, same as anything else. All that being said, even if you're not doing the high end stuff you see here, as a tool simply for priming and base coating, it can be invaluable on that alone (especially if you're someone who paints vehicles or something similar). There is nothing magical about the tool, it's machinery that has to be learned and can cause challenges, and it's also not required in any way, if you want to stick to brush only, no issues there, but it does limit the tools in your toolbox of course.
I'm currently using the Iwata Neo CN for priming, and the Iwata Eclipse HP-BS for finer detail. I'm using a very gentle press and pull back, and I never pull all the way back or press all the way down for full blast. But it still always comes out like water color when using a 10:1 ratio. I've tried just using water, I've tried using thinner, I've tried a mix of both with the same result. When I try to leave the paint thicker to resolve the watery problem the paint comes out unevenly or clogs the airbrush after one or two passes. I've tried different needle sizes from .2 to .5. I've tried 18 PSI, I've tried 10 PSI. I also have two different compressors, one with a tank and moisture trap regulator, and one that just has a moisture trap and regulator just to see if that could make a difference.
@@Proto1Dude Well, one cant say you haven't gone the distance, that's for sure. My best read is there is just too much pressure down and back. You have to really make sure you are just barely touching it. You could also try something a little more soft, something like 6 to 1 and really just barely rock that trigger. It's the only thing I can think of as you certainly should be able to achieve what I am doing here (I mean, it is possible, I am doing it on screen :) ) so it may just be practice. That is IF you want to keep experimenting and pushing, as I said before, no reason you would have to.
@@VinceVenturella I spent the evening practicing more trigger movement and went so far as to fashion a trigger guard out of a brush cap. While it did help I face constant spattering now and have to start the brush off of the model. Rocking it on the model spits paint all over it. I appreciate you taking the time to try and help, that was very kind of you. but this tool is not worth it. The best I can do is donate all of my equipment to my local game store and allow new painters to try airbrushing before they waste hundreds of dollars and hours that could have been spent on models.
My sincere apologies Vince. Disregard everything negative I have said up to this point. I checked everything but the seals on my airbrushes. There' were completely rotted from various non-standard thinning agents I tried over the course of learning the tool. After replacing them the super fine trigger control worked wonders.
Hi Vince, thx a lot for your tutorial. I have a question. When you are working wiht a solution of 9:1, 10:1, 12:1, what pressure do you use? I never use these much thinning. Thx for your answer
I got this locked like a destruction god. This could get fishy like elven cod. You have wings of destiny, no need for a mod ,already loving the vids, will they like it, more than prob .you could make an ork pretty as a pixie, that's real , no plying, you will be forever, no lying.
Firstly, love the video as always, do you have an opinion on using metalics or varnishes through the airbrush? I've heard mixed answers from, "It's totally fine", "buy a cheap airbrush, so you don't damage your good one", all the way to, "Don't do it" - so thought I'd consult a master
Great video, thanks. I Have been really struggling with my airbrush of late (H&S evolution silverline 2 in 1). I on.y use it for priming and base colours but it must’ve taken me 30 mins to base coat 5 marines this week, constant blocking/needle clearing and a sore finger to boot. I am going to try dialling it back with the fitting on the end as you suggest, thin my paint more and drop my pressure from 30psi.
Hi Vince! Superb as always! 🙂 What kind of consistency would you use for inks? I've been struggling to get my white ink zenithal smooth and speckle-free, but I've not been able to nail down whether it's the paint consistency, the air pressure, brush distance or all three!
Thanks Vince. Great tips. If you ever get a chance in your schedule, it would be great to see how you would use the airbrush to paint a split scheme marine. I’m not having much luck haha. Thanks again.
Hey Vince, probably the best airbrushing video I've seen. Thank you for taking the time to help us novice airbrush users. You mentioned spider webbing but what PSI do you usually spray at?
