Please people ensure you read the side notes provided by the Duchess, especially the healthy and safety precautions before you even attempt soap making. Lye is extremely dangerous and there are dos and don'ts when handling lye (or making soap). Wearing goggles, gloves, having ventilation and never using metal are just a few things to bear in mind before venturing into soap making. Some people can be very lazy and will just follow the video without reading the notes. If you are not an experienced soap maker and do this, you do it at your own risk. Thank again Gabrielle for this wonderful video.
+LadyCee Red - You are partially right - each of us has to find the perfect fragrance essential oil to soap batter ratio. Peppermint (and indeed the entire mint family ) can be irritants. But this is the case with all volatile oils depending on how they are used and for which skin type. The type of volatile oil will matter as well e.g. 5 fold orange essential oil is more potent that regular orange essential oil. I am using regular peppermint (Japanese) which sits very well with this formulation. Peppermint supreme (Indian) on the other hand would have been too much. My research does indicate to be cautious around mints and after a lot of revisions, I am happy with 1 oz of oil per pound of soap. I have used this ratio before with peppermint and I am very happy with it. A deep understanding of ingredients is the only way to make an informed decision. That said… you are absolutely right, better to be cautious and use less (especially if unaware of type and impact of oil). Thanks for the insight.
I love that peppermint oil too! I put it in all of my formulations. I put some in my shea butter mix last summer and just before I'd go out, I'd massage some into my scalp. I was amazed at how cool it kept me during the hot, humid days here in Coastal Alabama!!!! Absolutely no irritation, but I attribute that to the oils and shea butter added in. My 4-year-old granddaughter loves it! Whenever I use it in her hair, she says, "Ooooh, Grandmuddy, I like that!
This Argan Rain shampoo worked great to give my hair shine! It made my hair very soft and manageable as well. It smells absolutely wonderful! I would highly recommend this product and I will be buying more!
soap like this should cure for at least 4 weeks! try to do zip test if had no any litmus paper! but there is a way to make it quicker, just after soap become solid, put soap (in the silicone mold) to oven, bake it to jelly faze in temp. 122 d. F (50 d. C), it should take not more than hour. Good: Soap bars are ready to use; Bad: All fragrance oils are evaporate from soaps. I use to take it to slowcoocker for cooking, after it finish jelly faze i am adding some glicerine (to this batch u show us - 50 grams), extra oils (argan oil, coco, olive - 10 grams), ethanol (400 ml to this batch) and 1st sugar siroup (25 ml), boiling it for 2 hours, until all alcohol evaporate. To ready soap mixture i am adding water (3:1) and preparing liquid soap :D
Thank you so much for using measurements. I have seen a lot of videos and they wont share the exact measurements they use and it is a bit confusing. So from your video I can modify ingredients and make the shampoo bars for my own personal use. Again thank you and great job.
I know this video is a couple of years old, but I am just seeing it for the first time. Thank you SO VERY MUCH for sharing the amounts of your ingredients and the side notes. I have watched a dozen or more videos on making shampoo bars that only showed the processes (cold process, hot process, and even melt & pour - which is not what I wanted), but this is the first one that included the full recipe. Thank you again so much!
Thank you for sharing this. I am new to soap making and definitely hooked. I was looking for a shampoo bar and this is it. I like to use herbs and plants from my islands and this one seems easy to adjust. The recipe is the right size to try out plus I have all the oils n hand.
I was wondering how did your soap bars make your hair feel? I've made several bars and even ordered sample bars, but my hair doesn't feel moisturized! Only dry.
Meeiko Moon That's normal because your hair is going through an adjustment phase from using regular shampoo to an all natural shampoo bar. On research, there's a time period the hair has to detox from all the chemical, usually about 1 month or longer (maybe 2-3 months depending on how often you wash your hair and the products you use afterwards). Natural products usually works better with natural products. So if going all natural, go all out (shampoo, conditioner, deep conditioner, leave-in, moisturizers and oils etc). Also when using shampoo bar can use Apple cider vinegar rinse for the finally rinse to remove any hard water (if you don't have a filter and living hun an area with hard water) and soap residue. It acts as a conditioner for the hair and doesn't have to be rinse (since tbsp acv would be diluted in about 1 litre of water). Overall shampoo bar is something that can't be used once or twice and expect immediate results (some do but maybe they used natural products for a few months and have detox hair already). Lastly, you can detox hair quickly but using clay on the first wash day (of course condition after) and then on the second wash day can use the shampoo bar. This way is considered faster because the hair will be starting a "new". I hope this makes sense and not too late. Don't give up. Shampoo bar is wonderful and versatile. After shampooing I like to use the same bar and shower with it. Saves money too - less products!
i3abikay I wish I had seen this response months ago! It would have saved me many many tears because I wanted the shampoo bar to work! And I’m so happy that I stuck with it because it does work now! It took me 4 months to transition and detox from chemicals, as well as installing a shower filter, to get the bar to work. But I love them so much and I’m never going back to shampoos or anything with chemicals in them again.
Great tutorial. One question, other soap makers say that the soap needs to cure for at least three weeks before using so that the ph balance is safe for the skin. Do you find that to be true or is it unnecessary to wait that long?
Yes, we have to let them cure for 4-6 weeks to let the water evaporate. I also want to see if the PH changes within that time. Right off the mold the PH was 8. There are some additional side notes on the blog post linked in the info bar.
Yes, we have to let them cure for 4-6 weeks to let the water evaporate. I also want to see if the PH changes within that time. Right off the mold the PH was 8. There are some additional side notes on the blog post linked in the info bar. Thanks for the insight.
hi Gabrielle. love your chanel .... the best .... so profesional and gracefully done. could you please add a link, or mention the type of the digital scale you are using... regards Hila
Thank you so much for posting! :-) i really enjoyed your quick, simple and effective way to make this shampoo/soap bar. I was wondering what vendor you buy the Iye from? Looking for a honest, goid quality. Thanks again for all your dedicated, helpful tips. Peace and love, namaste.
You are welcome love. I'm so glad the video was inspirational. I buy lye from amazon. It's one of those chemicals that are pretty difficult to mess with so it's generally safe to buy from amazon. Be wary of the shipping though. Some vendors at amazon will sell the lye cheap but charge a fortune in shipping. It's really ridiculous. Other than that I would assume soap crafters stores like Bramble Berry stock both potassium and sodium lyes. Potassium is for liquid soap though - my next attempt :)
Yes, they do in order to evaporate excess water and lower alkalinity. The mold is a baking one from good old amazon. There is a link in the info bar with additional details like the link to the mold and information on curing time that couldn't fit in the video. Worth a quick glance :-)
Love this video! I'd like to make my own shampoo bars and soaps but would like to use raw honey as well. Where/when in the process should it be added and in what quantities? Also, can you use coconut milk instead of water/tea to activate the lye?
Hi there..take a look at the video on soap making essentials but briefly…soap is a salt resulting in the neutralization reaction between a base and an acid. Sodium hydroxide is our base and the fatty acids in the oils are our acids. In order to saponify (make soap) from the fatty acids we need a strong base, hence the sodium or potassium hydroxide. The lye is completely used up during the reaction so you end up with a salt (which is the soap) and some glycerin. There's no lye in the soap. And yep, it's the same lye in relaxers because our hair is acidic…only in relaxers you are putting it directly on the hair. It's very caustic and will eat the skin away if not properly timed and neutralized. Hope that helps.
Hi Sable - Thanks. I have different vendors depending on what product it is. I switch them around for better prices and quality control as well. Is there something in particular you are looking for? This way we can narrow it down to relevant vendors.
Hi what can I make for my hair is curly dry and falls out then I wash comb brush my hair I just started using 100%Shea Butter on my hair and body I have dry skin thats the reason I bought the Shea Butter for so need advice
bkeressW Final PH was about 8. It's still high but with a quick ACV spray I can counter that. The batch made with just water (not herbal tea) ended up at PH 7. I'm sticking with that formula for now.
I was wondering if you think this bar could be used for body as well? I am wanting to try a shampoo bar especially for travel to reduce the liquids I carry and thought it would be nice to carry a bar for both hair and body. Thanks!
kaysas32701 Yes, I use it more for body than hair. I have almost eliminated the need to shampoo so they are now body washes. I try to make everything multipurpose. There's nothing in these that would prevent them from being an effective body wash.
The combination of lye and a fat is what results in soap and glycerin. The lye is completely used up in the reaction so the soap does not contain any lye. It's impossible to make soap without lye, unless you use some kind of commercial surfactant/
I love your videos, is this cold process or hot process soap? cause if it is cold process, it will have to sit on the self for 4 to 6 wks to let the lye become safe enough to use. And hot process soap can be used in 24 hrs
Yes, right on all points. The soap is cold processed so we have to let it cure for 4-6wks to evaporate excess water and lower alkalinity. It's been about 4 weeks now so the bars are just about ready. PS: All the lye was must be used up in the reaction. Curing would not make the lye safe because it would become reactive as soon as it got into contact with moisture. I'll take a stab at hot processed soap next :-)
DuchessGabrielle Actually the soap has to cure so the sodium hydroxide as a binding agent for the oils is no longer acidic. There is no longer water in there after they become solid.
It's a baking mold from Amazon. The blogpost linked in the info bar has all the details on tools used and additional side notes on this recipe. Worth a quick glance.
I live in England and have tried all over to find a mould like yours, do you have a web link so I could buy one? By the way I love this video, please post more.
I really want to start making my own products and this shampoo bar looks like it can be easy to do. I have to look up on what lie does to your hair. But this does seem interesting though.
+Alicia C Although lye is used in the soap making process, it evaporates (absorbs itself) after the oils combine with the lye. Lye and oils (fats) are what makes soap,...but afterwards you are left with just the soap with no lye in it. But you have to wait for four weeks in order to make sure that the lye evaporated and the bar hardens.
+Alicia C No problem! I love seeing other black women and men start to be independent and make their own products without harsh chemicals! Good luck, and feel free to message me if you have any more questions! Shalom.
Reina Benoir I'm not sure. I think it depends on your location. In North America most recipes and guidelines are in American Weight but in Europe the metric system is preferred. My scale has both so I can switch back and forth :-)
Makes sense. I mean I don't usually use metric but to be honest once you start talking percentages I would go metric despite imperial weights being the norm here. Percentages of 100g are much easier than percentages of 16 oz.
You can get as creative as you like with usage. There's nothing in this soap that would make it unusable for the body. I try to make everything multipurpose because half the time I forget what's what and use for one the other. Happens a lot with my hair and body creams. No harm done though :-)
I do the same thing lol! Hair cream eventually turns into body cream and deep conditioners sometimes turn into facials.... Thank you for replying so quickly as well :)
DuchessGabrielle You're right about multipurpose!!! The same stuff with peppermint and eucalyptus made for my hair is used to rub my knees down sometimes! ROTFL!!!
Hi there - We need lye to saponify. Take a look at the video on soap making essentials but briefly…soap is a salt resulting in the neutralization reaction between a base and an acid. Sodium hydroxide is our base and the fatty acids in the oils are our acids. In order to saponify (make soap) from the fatty acids we need a strong base, hence the sodium or potassium hydroxide. The lye is completely used up during the reaction so you end up with a salt (which is the soap) and some glycerin. You can't make soap without a strong base and an acid. There is detailed info in the blog post linked in the info bar.
The comment wasn't based on the temperature of the lye but on the fact that lye will etch tempered glass over time causing it too become weak and break I've had it too happen... Trust, my homework and research are thorough as well.... But oh well didn't mean any disrespect peace and blessings.
Oh I didn't take it as disrespect at all. I'm sorry if that's how my comment came out. I love getting other people's insight on these videos. I do research but I am by no means an expert on everything. I had not considered the long term impacts of lye on pyrex so now your point makes total sense. What would you recommend to use for the lye water? Again, sorry for the confusion and thanks for the insight.
Thank you so much for this upload. I stumbled on your channel a few days ago and I'm hooked. I will definitely try this. You are awesome Duchess and I cannot thank you enough for all this knowledge.
What percentage of superfat does your recipe contain? I want to make my own but the only thing holding me back is how much superfat should I use. I'm really confused someplaces I read 3% some others even 20%. Also I've read that the hair doean't like the alkalinity in CP soap, hair like acidity better. Maybe HP is a better option for shampoo bars because it can reach 6 in the PH test... Help!!
I just started with soap making so I am not absolutely sure but I think you can use glycerine as a base. You would just replace the water part. I know that's how liquid glycerine soap is made for sure.
DuchessGabrielle Glycerine occurs naturally in the soap making process. The store bought soaps you buy that are mass produced have been extracted of the glycerin and sold and put in expensive cosmetics and aging creams you purchase for hundreds of dollars at the deparment stores and online. Making your own soaps is the only way to go. Back in days before store bought soaps and shampoos with all of the chemicals and sulfates we didn't have as many skin conditions and diseases. Skin was smooth, less acne, eczema and psoriasis ect... Not to mention all of the chemicals you put on your body in the shower go through your skin and into your blood stream, thus entering your whole body. Think back back to basics :) I have been doing this for a long time and now am a certified herbalist. Where did you get your recipe for this soap?
***** That makes sense. I made up the recipe following a crafters calculator. It's linked in the info bar in case you are curious. I'm very new to soap making so all the input is superbly valuable.
Such a hype on no soap shampoo bar, pH of cp Shampoobars are not right...what advice for you have for me...as I believe in less harmful chemicals as possible.... Is there a way to control the pH of cp shampoo bars....thank u
The combination of lye and a fat is what results in soap and glycerin. The lye is completely used up in the reaction so the soap does not contain any lye. It's impossible to make soap without lye, unless you use some kind of commercial surfactant. I agree that the pH was still higher than I would like even for these bars so I just do a ACV rinse after the wash and make sure all the other products are pH optimized
No. And the lye is undergoing a chemical process with the oils to create a salt which is what soap is. If it is soap, it is created with lye, but as long as an appropriate formula was correctly followed there will be no lye in the remaining soap. Superfating is important for this reason as it ensures that calculation errors don't result in leftover lye. Superfating is basically purposefully having extra oil/fat in your soap recipe (more than needed to reach with the lye). Even authentic African black soap which is made with ashes and other natural ingredients involves a process (using those ashes and water) that creates lye (potassium chloride I think) naturally. Using pure lye only eliminates those extra steps. The chemical process is the still the same and unless you're trained in making African soap by the women in Africa who've perfected it, you'll find using a soaping calculator gives you more safety and control while making your homemade soap. Read up on and follow safety precautions and do your research. Please don't be afraid of soap making, it is a process of turning "evil" dangerous chemicals into ones we can use and benefit from and eliminates other synthetic chemicals often found in soaps and shampoos. You'll know exactly what's going onto your body (and being absorbed by your skin) and I think it's worth a try.
No, you need lye (sodium or or potassium hydroxide ) to bind the oils together which causes the sopanification process. Apple Cider vinager is only a neutralizer to make sure you have on hand in case you get these very caustic chemicals on you to stop the burning process. Belive me! I had a small burn on my leg once! And it feels like your getting stung by a bee!
you don't try to wash with it after just 24 hours!! the lye is still active after 24 hours and the saponification process is still on, you should wait up to 4 months to actually try you soap or else you'll get some really serious burning.
Great video im going to have to borrow your recipe... Lol I don't mean too sound like the safety police but its not safe mixing lye in glass it will get weak and crack on you I speak from experience...it makes a mess....
This is not just glass...it's pyrex, which is made to withstand temperatures up to 600 degrees Fahrenheight....and specifically made for reactions emit heat. Believe me, my homework is fully and thoroughly done. You are welcome to the recipe and have fun...and be safe :-)
Tonya Scott Yes, 6-8 weeks then test the PH. I have gone as long as 10 weeks. There's a link in the info bar with all the accompanying notes. It's worth a quick glance.
+Dalma Perkins I have a list of vendors but they are always in rotation to ensure quality control. If you tell me what which ingredients you are looking for I might be able to give some suggestions.
Not necessarily. But soap cannot be made without lye. It's part of the soap making process, but is not present in the final product if you allowed it to cure properly.
You are welcome love. Good luck and have fun with it. Send a video reply if you can. Oh and PS - check blogpost linked in the info bar for additional side notes that may come in handy.
NOT AT ALL. Baking soda is Sodium Bicarbonate. A very safe, multi-use material. Lye is Sodium Hydroxide, a highly caustic chemical. You cannot make soap without it. Luckily, through the chemical transformation, it does not end up in the final product - the soap.
If you are not clear on what sodium hydroxide is or that there are various forms of sodium that ALL do different things. You really should step back and do loads of research before attempting to make soap. It is extremely dangerous for you to ever handle chemicals of any kind without knowing what they do!I researched making soap for 2 years before ever making my first batch. I do not mean that meanly but omg use caution!
You might want to use melt and pour soap base where they've already mixed the soap with the lye so you don't have to handle Lye at all because lye is very very very very very dangerous. And it should never be handled if you don't know enough about it.
Priyan Priyan NO! Soap must be cured. If used within 24 hours the lye is still active and will BURN your hands, scalp, eyes, hair, and whatever human tissue it comes in contact with. it usually takes 4 weeks or maybe more. 6 weeks to be safe.
nishani3 all the lye should be gone within 24 to 48 hours. curing is to let the water evaporate so your bar is harder and won't melt away fast. ph test it it should have a ph between 7 & 10.
Priyan Priyan pls don't use uncured soap!! You can go blind if the uncured soap goes into your eyes! And the very same reason goggles and gloves are used while soap making.i am freaking out here from your comment
why in the world would you ever put lye in a shampoo bar???? thats the same stuff thats in a hair relaxer , that basically kills your hair??? Again LYE IN A SHAMPOO BAR, im sorry but thats just insane to me!
Robin Sharron This exactly why you need to do your research before posting this on somones video. You CANNOT make bar soap without Lye. It'll just be blended oils & water that separates after all the hard work.. Just be reassured that after all the mixing & emulsifying....LYE is NOT even present in the FINAL product. Its not gonna "perm your hair" Lol Go read & please do your own research. Educate YOURSELF!
first and foremost, all I do is research honey and there IS another way of making shampoo soap without lye, you can use a melt-and-pour base or you can rebatch the soap.......dont ever come to me like that, i dont know you and you damn sure dont know me....
Robin Sharron true you can use melt and pour. however you cannot control what is in the melt and pour except the fragrance, perhaps. in traditional soap bar making, lye is necessary; however, it dissipates after curing and the final product is everything but the lye. with traditional soap bar making you can control what ingredients goes into the soap and that is a beautiful thing ;)
This is how soap has always been made. This is the way our grandmothers did it as well (ask and old person!). Reiterating that all traces of lye are dissolved in the chemical reaction called soaponification. Using the process called superfatting increases moisturizing properties of soaps in fact. You can make it gentle enough for babies if needed.
