A happy New Year to you and your family ! That was a very good summary 👍 I would like to make some additional remarks though... Digital calipers: You can replace the batteries in those. No need to replace the whole caliper which is expensive compared to the battery which costs just a few cents. That said, I have found that in a lot of cases an analog caliper is absolutely sufficient. I always have an analog caliper at hand in case the battery in the digital one dies and I am not in a position to replace it immediately (eg working late at night or on weekends when no shops are open). Important side note: The calipers should always be hardened steel. Cheaper ones are aluminum or plastic - they work well for measuring but not for marking. Also some digital calipers shut down after a while and others don't. Of course the ones which shut themselves down after some time of not being actively used should be preferred. Sadly, that feature is more or less never advertised. Saw blades: #2 is very course. I assume you mean #2/0. Also, as an advice for beginners: A mistake many people make at the beginning is to go for a cheap sawblade. Those are not reliable. Not by means of durability, but they tend to not cut straight. On the contrary, quality brand blades will always cut straight. One should always invest in quality blades. It pays off in the end because you have more control. Pliers: You have nice ones. But for beginners it is important to tell them for what they should look when buying them: It is important that the hinged joint looks like the one on your pliers, with one arm coming through the center of the other. There are cheaper ones with a joint where the arms are jointed side-by-side, which is rubbish. A lot of the time one will apply sideway force to the pliers when woking with jewellery. That will cause the side-by-side jointed pliers to start to wiggle after a while while the center joined ones will still be good. Soldering block: I prefer the good old charcoal block over the honeycomb ceramics. It might perhaps not last as long but it has the advantage of offering a reducing environment, ie. excess oxygen from your torch will rather burn the charcoal than the object to be heated. But both, honeycomb ceramics and charcoal, work well. The honeycomb ceramics also have one advantage over other surfaces: You can stick steel or titanium pins in the holes to fixate your objects, which can be very helpful in some cases. I have also seen jewellers breaking their honeycomb ceramic soldering block on purpose: That way they can place the piece of jewellery over a gap in the block and use indirect heat. For beginners, I would also like to add a steel bench block, a standard goldsmith's bench hammer, and a rawhide or wood mallet as well as some files (a set of needle files and at least a #2 cut half-round bench file).
