14V AGM batteries must be charged to full capacity or they won’t last, which means an alternator charge point of 16.5V. However, Titan 8 14V (S6) lithium batteries can be charged at mid to low 15V range, which is a common charge set point for Mechman alternators and offers superior life, cranking power and significantly reduced weight. For a street car with no electrical upgrades, just a plain 12V battery and an upgraded Mechman alternator is all you need!
I was about to throw a 14v battery on my 2022 frontier for a 3000watt sound system but instead I'll just get another 12v and wire them in parallel. Thank you so much for the great video!!! You most likely just saved my electrical system in my truck!!!
My 2022 frontier does the same! 12.6 lights off at idle, 14.3 lights on, and it's because the electrical draw on your system is higher with the lights on so your alternator is putting out more to make up for that!! I got you buddy!
Y’all make really nice alternators , I’ve installed quite a few with good success. But please get yourself educated on 16 volt systems . I run a 16 volt battery and alternator . It charges at 17.1 volts. I’ve completed and won 3 drag and drive events just this year. You’re not in the race car world, if you want to be feel free to let me help you
We're not saying you're wrong, just not as efficient. The higher the voltage, the more power it takes to do so. What's the point in running a 16v battery if you're not going to optimally charge it? This isn't "just us". Feel free to check out the detailed AGM battery tech data on XS Power. You could be doing the same thing with a 14v battery. Again, there's tons of ways to do electrical but some are more efficient than others.
I’ve got a 2018 Dodge Challenger R/T, and I purchased a mechman Alt a couple years back. When I first installed it I was charging at 15v no problem, but now I can’t seem to charge above 13.2 and at most 13.8 on a cold start, once it settles I’m literally at 12.8-13v even. I’m sure the alternator is good, however I was told that dodge has a really aggressive voltage regulator. Is there any way to bypass that issue or am I at the mercy of the manufacturer’s strict voltage control?
I’m trying to get a 400 amp alternator that I can use with a small 5-10hp engine for power generation. Would I just need to connect positive and negative to yours, or do I need something like your regulators to do it safely? Thanks for any feedback.
It takes appx. 10-12hp to operate a 400 amp alternator. We get these type of application calls daily and we DO NOT recommend using our alternators on anything BESIDES the automotive applications we list on our website. They will not be warrantied nor serviced/repaired if done so.
@@mechmanalternators understood. I need about 316 amps for what I’m doing, and heard it’s not good to run alternators over 80% continuously, which is why I was thinking the 400 amp one would work better. Is that accurate? Thanks again for your assistance.
Just get a typical 4S LiPO on a 3.5-4.5V balance circuit running off a little buck converter separate from the rest of the car and run a capacitor on the active terminal once the car is running...it's a lot of wiring to run but still lighter than lead acid. Any hobby store will sell you a 14V LiPO for under $50 that can start a car while the CAP is going to keep the voltage nice and stable to run your high performance ignition coils and plugs. I'd still replace the cell every couple of races but it's cheap as far as racecars are concerned...plus once again it can save you 10-30 lbs depending on the weight of your stock battery.
I am from the car audio world, and what a lot of these race car guys don't understand watts is watts, I have seen them say I get better spark at 14v systems but they have no idea how to charge it or maintain it, I run 16v on my build two alts then run 12-12 victron chargers to run my 12v side to keep it safe and happy, they can run just as many things on 12v as 14v, I would never want to worry about a voltage regulator while trying to run a race car, but a bass truck no big deal it is just part of the control system u have to maintain and control while demoing
yea i was looking at solutions for charging these lthum batter some will lst 3 fold longs if charged at a certain bit lower than max voltage and if using alternator one needs some range in voltage i found one that ( regulator ] that may go down to 13-19 but i will not know until i test it .might be junk ..but be nice to have a knob to turn lol.now ill watch the video God bless hi from Kingston tn
Take out the alternator regulator rectifier n put a variable rheostat potential meter adjustable but swap alternator to leece neilville 680 amps thicker wires two spark plugs per cylinder magneto huge n use nitrous nozzle instead of injectors or put another battery 🔋 n series it my diesel truck 10 feet flames would
That doesn't make sense. In the video it states that higher voltage alternators require MORE POWER to turn. So why would a RACE CAR want more parasitic drag costing them horsepower? Most race cars only need around 170-200 amps of alternator output.
@@jason7475 ok, so an alternator cranking out 16.5(2 volts more than a 12v alternator)volts that would take around 10hp to drive would be wanted by race car people? ...think about that...
@@tonyb022377 It's not just the pump The fans and ignition all work alot better at 14v. That's why pure race cars use 16v. So the street guys want 14v. I have 1 of your 13v 170amp alts now. It works good. But I'd love to upgrade to 14v. With a battery and alternator swap! I know you big in the stereo scene but you def don't know the performance car scene Your loosing out on alot of business. Cause the only 14v option alternator everyone is using is made by powermaster! And it's not anywhere near your quality of product. I'd be willing to be a test car for you if that's what it would take for you to make an alternator like that!
