Hats down to you. I am just in the process of insulting and replacing flooring plus running some gizmo services. I do feel overwhelmed. You are doing a roof of a very big house ! You must have nerves of steal. I am Seriously impressed with you!
Gosh your are brave taking on this project - the next step is to build a complete house from start to finish :-) Please can we have a mug that celebrates this achievement
That’s a lot of work for DIY, and not questioning your ability, you need help especially with the chimney stacks, even if you should keep the unused ones’ , good luck with it
Yere mate I use the cheep electric pully they work grate and the price is fantastic. I even get steels up with it 👍👍👍just don't push them constantly they will over heat
Roofer (35 years) scaffold will need additional ties at hoist location. Look at Siga 39’s as replacement slate. (SIG) Teknos paint system. Those current slates are not original, to square cut. Looks like you’ll be splicing or planting some rafter ends too !
👍 Will hopefully sort hoist support tomorrow, it’s only a small one but I’ll get them to do what’s needed, at the moment the poles where I need it don’t continue far enough up beyond handrail to make it practical. Almost certain slates are original though, the house isn’t that old in the whole scheme of things.
One question does rain water run at the rear of the gutters? As I don't see any starting felt that should run into gutter to prevent this.im I right in saying this?
That's a crazy amount of work. Best of luck, I know you will do a great job. I have just repaired and painted my wooden soffits, fascias and replaced the guttering. I have a 1958 dormer chalet, so all work was done from a set of steps. I'm getting to old for being on roofs like yours.
Hi Tim, we redid our 80 year old roofline a couple of years ago. Our woodwork was okay so we repainted it. Our cast iron rainwater goods were beyond saving (cracked right through in many places), we replaced it with cast iron look-alike plastic which is better than it sounds. Our biggest expense turned out to be the scaffolding which cost about 4k GBP!
Have you considered medite tricoya mdf for the soffit and fascia? Really good product, life span of circa 50 years and gives a great surface for decoration 👍
Did you consider having a false scaffolding roof fitted to assist if had poor weather conditions once started. Is the cost so significant that it wouldn't be worth the extra cost. We just had our roof done and the bumpa for getting the tiles up are really worth it really reccomend hiring one when ready.
Jeez, that's a big job. I think you are right to replace all of the slates, it makes sense. I'm going to watch this with great interest. I envy you your 'head-for-heights', I could never work at that height without feeling sick. I'm hoping my next house is a bungalow :) Best wishes :)
Hi Tim, love the channel and you are very brave taking this project on. Just wondered if you are going to cover safety of working at height, especially for the diy-er?
Hopefully by now (Sept 10) you are well into the project ahead of the winter weather. One question; what is the purpose of the metal rail along some edges of the roof/ I'm guessing it's to break up snow when it sheds...
That was one plan but now I’m up there and have some help if needed I think the slates will probably be easier than the timber restoration and guttering tbh. Also got help for the lead work and detailed sections.
I was going to mention that many people remove the slates, put the good ones in a stack, and see if they have enough to cover the back of the house, and put new slates on the front, but if they've been there that long, your decision is probably the right one.
Yeah, don't go for a conveyor belt to get the slates down. Go for a pulley system. I've used a conveyor to get concrete slates up to a roof and I lost quite a few that just fell off the belt.
I was just about to say the same thing. None breathable paints do not protect wood they cause it to rot by trapping in moister. just take one little paint crack and the water is in and trapped.
I was considering this for some widows BUT the preparation seems very extensive, far more than just normal prep for repainting with standard commercial paints, is it worth the effort???
@@johncart2082 you just had to get the old none linseed oil pant off as that will not breath so it will fail at that location. best thing to do is just never paint wood in none breathable paints in the first place. I would say it is worth it if you want the wood to last a long time or for a restoration project like this it is important.
For the little extra cost I would do the bay roof all in lead (code 5 minimum) and I always hire a swing out hoist as those fixed cheap ones dont go high enough to clear the hand rails with the load.
Figured that would be an issue when looking at where to put it today, guess I could have got one of the poles left long. Don’t think the support arm I ordered swingers. I think it will bring to level with handrail height so may be as good as it gets. Skip will be beside it at the bottom which is handy for stuff on the way down I guess.
Hi, I'm fairly new to your channel. Whereabouts are you? I'm not from a construction background, so used an independent consultancy to guide us on remedial repairs to 60+ properties in the NW. They gave us the highest professional input, and kept the prime contractor honest. One of the subbies, their leadwork was top qaulity. Happy to refer, if appropriate. I'm sure you're not short of offers/recommendations.
I own a roofing campany in Bristol. If your looking to replace with breathable. Roofshield is the best felt on the market. That's the only felt I'd recommend
Hi, have you thought about using solar tiles? I'm not sure of your aspect, but there is a uk company that I'm sure would be interested in helping you, your house is exactly what they're aiming at. It's also what we need to be doing moving forwards, if we put solar on every time we replaced a roof, think of the power that would generate! Just a thought to add to your complex mix!
I’d love to but not found any that are really as discreet as they are described to be. The front elevation is south so would be ideal but don’t want to compromise the appearance too much. Solar thermal is going on the garage conversion roof. What are your suggestions for the solar tiles? Would be more than happy to take another look, anything to get this hungry house further from the grid is a good thing!
Great project to be getting on with. Wouldn’t mind having a bash at that myself! Got my soffits facias and gutters to do. Probably find a few more hidden nasties up there when I get round to it also. Will look forward to watching your progress! And always best to use new slate on a house this age as you say. Belts and brases! All the best! Marc
Great vid. I also done my own roof, and let me tell you, it was LABOUR intensive 😂 your definitely right about not using a pulley, that got boring fast. any skates that are still in good nick, I sold them back to a roofing wholesalers and I was extremely surprised how much they paid for them, mine were welsh slate btw
Yes, I’m being offered pretty much same for the old welsh as the new ones are costing. I’m sure it’s going to be a marathon but wanted to tick it off the bucket list! 😂
The Restoration Couple i was the same, paid pretty much what my new Spanish ones cost. But only about 35% were still ok to sell. If you don’t already know, if you stand an old slate up and just knock on it, you can hear if it’s good or not
Jodi Rauth Anything fake, designed to look like something it's not is always best avoided, they always look like a poor imitation, devalue your home, make it less saleable and are unlikely to last anywhere near as long as the genuine article.
Your probably going to do this but just in case; pre-paint (apart from final coat) your bargeboards etc on the ground as it makes life easier. When I did our annex I did all the painting in the garage at night and it certainly speeded up the process. The other ‘tip’ .. put temporary plastic guttering up whilst you take the time to restore your cast iron then you can use the plastic guttering for seeds next year 😉 Sorry if these are obvious things.
Did contemplate plastic gutters today but fear it may make me take my foot of the gas and they’ll be up there long term! 🙄 Planning to spray all the trim first with two coats and then finish once fitted and filled as you suggest. There are a few sections that can be retained I think so may have some done in place. 👍
Use eaves tray. I cannot recommend this highly enough. OK, so it isn't original, but it can't be seen once the gutter is installed and it prevents sagging of the roofing membrane just above the fascia boards so you don't get any pooling of water and it stops any weeping through onto the top of the fascia boards when, eventually, the edge of the membrane starts disintegrating through weathering and being pecked at by birds.
There is only really a couple of days where dry weather is needed which is when the old comes off and membrane on. After that the slates can go on in any weather really.
Having just done gable end repointing with a stonemason friend, angle grinder for getting mortar out. Seems counterintuitive but it’s less stress/vibrations in stones.. any cuts can then be hid with repointing. Better to have a chunky joint with plenty of mortar in, than a hairline.
I am glad to see that you recognise the importance of using lime mortar pointing on your stone walls - few builders do! I notice that your chimneys are 1/2 brick thick (9" flue in a 18" chimney width), which must be an issue with damp especially when left unused. They would not have been an issue when originally built as there was probably open fires in each grate. I would consider a water proofing (not silicone) to the chimneys such as Silane.
The stacks are have 3 or 4 flues in each. They were built with now pots but was planning on installing pots with pepper pot type tops. Not been up top to see them too close up yet but I’m sure there will be plenty of work to do!
@@TheRestorationCouple Hi, I guessed that the flues were in line as they will be 9" (225mm) square flues, which means that they have a 4 1/2" (102mm, 1/2brick) wall that often cause a problem due to their permeability and acidic soot internal coating. Changing the pots will have very little effect as the wind driven rain, nominally from south-west will saturate the mortar and possibly the bricks, which will eventually cause the acidic soot to attack the lime mortar that will destabilze the chimney over time. The quickest and most cost effective solution is to prevent the moisture permeating through the brickwork.
Are you doing the roof yourself? Tip. Make sure the roof is counter battened. Especially with breathable felt. One mistake I see so many making. So any decent roofing merchant will sell 10mm lathe batten. Felt the roof then 10mm battens on top of each rafter. Then horizontal 2x1 battens. Great practice to do this for extra life in your roof.
Basically you are creating a 10mm clear gap between felt and horizontal 2x1 battens to ensure no water is ever sitting on a batten. These 10mm battens are pressure treated and graded just like any other roofing batten. I dont mean water like your roof is leaking but condensation build up ect. You'd be surprised even with correct ventilation methods you still get moisture in the winter months
@@tomvincent5596 I was a slater for 40 years and stripped hundreds of roofs, only used counter battens on boarded roofs. You normally only get condensation problems with incorrect ventilation.
