12V vs 24V vs 48V (For Camper Electrical Systems) 

I swear every time I have a question I google it and one of your videos is there to answer it. I just want to say I appreciate your videos.

I don't usually comment on 1yr old videos but I'd like to say I think you did a pretty good job here, and the video has aged quite well. I'll throw in a few remarks on 48V. One thing you didn't mention is that lowly Victron 100|20 charge controller can do 12, 24, or 48V. And at 48V and 20A that cheap itsy bitsy little charge controller can take 960W of solar all by itself. Just remembering that the minimum operating voltage from the solar panels has to be BAT+5V higher (so around 65V minimum which is typically 2 or 3 panels in series, depending on the panels). Throwing a few of those together ganged to the same battery bank is easy and gives you a bit of redundancy on the DC side pretty much for free. DC miniature circuit breakers (DIN rail mount) are pretty cheap these days. I would say that when it comes to DC miniature breakers, consider "B" type instead of "C" type. Most will be "C" type which are great when there is a lot of inrush current, but the "B" types have tighter specs and are typically higher quality to boot. So if inrush current isn't an issue, the "B" types are the ones to go with. For example, The Chtaixi DC miniature circuit breakers have worked well for me. Type "B", 125A at up to 110V for around $20. Of course, many amperages are available. On DC to DC converters. The cheap no-name brands on Amazon actually do work pretty well and have basic short circuit protection, but should definitely still have a breaker or a fuse on them because they do not have over-current protection (even when they say they do, they actually don't). Beyond that, though, there isn't a whole lot that can go wrong below 10A so for running low-power stuff they're great. I have no qualms using them below 10A on the output. More than 10A, though, is another story when it comes to DC-to-DC converters. Go with a well known brand above 10A. For charging 48V from an alternator, consider using a "boost" style solar charge controller. Not the Victron's.. .the Victron's are all "buck" style (output voltage must be lower than the input voltage). So if you have a 12V alternator, go with a charge controller that can boost the voltage into the 48V range. That way you get a proper battery charging profile for free AND you have complete control over the charge current. i.e. get a charge controller where the maximum charge current can be set. The great thing about this is that you have full control over the charge rate via the current setting on the charge controller, so it can be programmed to guarantee basically zero stress on the alternator even if it is charging for hours. Keeping in mind that the amperage on the 12V side will be 4x the amperage on the 48V side, of course. Finally batteries. LiFePO4 is expensive but its freaking awesome. But I advise AGAINST putting lithium based batteries in series because even when they say they can do it, having BMS's that don't talk to each other can cause serious issues when charging if one battery decides to disconnect charging before the other battery is able to finish. Things can go out of balance pretty badly. So lithium based batteries should universally be wired in parallel. My only other comment here is to always have at least two batteries in parallel for generous amperage margins and robustness against problems and BMS disconnects. At whatever the voltage one choses to go with. For inverters... consider that multiple smaller inverters are an option (separate outputs, obviously not paralleled since most inverters can't do that). Inverters with lower wattage outputs also tend to have lower vampire current draw and this way heavy loads can have their own appropriately-sized breakres and won't interfere with nominal light loads.

Awesome video 😁👍🏻 the no name 48>12 buck converters are very reliable and actually have safety ratings. Designed for automotive use, they work well. Very efficient as well. To run 12V jacks, I would use a buck converter with an output voltage that was the float voltage of an AGM, then run the jack off the 12V AGM. Did this for a year and it worked great. I did blow a buck converter to pieces when I was using it as a solar charge controller 😂 had a morning voltage spike and a capacitor blew. It was potted so it exploded to a million pieces haha

Very nice explanation of 12v to 24v. Someday I plan on living out of a RV and your videos are giving me the ammo I need when the time comes to pull the trigger on my plans. Thanks for your helpful videos. They are very well laid out and that little blooper you left in was fun.

Absolotely perfect video that I can recommend to anyone going to build your own FVE. Lenght, used terms and explanation at highest level considering it is made for beginners. It helped me finaly decide. Thank you.

Great vid Nate, this is a good explanation of differences between system voltages. You have a very clear & concise method of teaching. Andy’s Off Grid Garage Australia channel has a lot of info on 48v systems. I am currently playing with a 24v system in a bus, & a 48v system at home. In Australia we use 240vac of course. I watched ur whole 24v build, it was very clean and nice. Cheers

Thank you for this entire series. I've used your videos and @WillProwse videos and information to build my off-grid cabin system. It came out really well, if I do say so myself. I am now going to tackle our new motorhome conversion. A Tiffin Allegro Bus 45 OPP, which is all electric, 50 amp, with a 10k Onan generator on-board. Hoping to go 48v, as I did with the cabin, but using mostly Victron components, but also considering all-in-one systems like EG4. I used MPP LV6548 at the cabin, which has worked great. Only in the planning and spitballing stages currently, but look forward to a finished product that will be used for fulltiming when I retire next year. Thanks again for all of the great content!!

*Check out our newest 24V system build:* ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-E5q7_4FH4LQ.html

Rarely have I seen a complicated system explained so eloquently👀👍Thank you!

Thank you for explaning this and your video summarizing at the end is perfect. Hopefully, you have 100 percent engagement through to the end!

Nate, outstanding video, long time subscriber. I built a 24V system using a 3000W AIMS and 1030W on the roof of a 5th Wheel back in 2016 for many of the same reasons you mentioned, and I used two different 'no name' 24VDC/12VDC converters because I ended up burning the 60W version out powering the Hydraulic slide motor and had to get a 80W version. But the small one worked ok for the rest of the 12V equipment. Real world results. When I 'upgraded' to a newer 5th Wheel in 2018 and went with a 12V all Victron setup with lithium batteries, I have noticed a significant decrease in available power, I maintained 4/0 wire between the batteries and inverter within 2 feet of each other to minimize resistance. But I can not run the AC for as long as I used to on the 24V system and the batteries were four 115A of AGM in 24V (2s2p) upgraded to four 100A of Lithium in 4p. My biggest concern is my Victron settings, I don't think the solar is prioritized as I am not using ESS or any agents. Are you no longer doing consulting?

Loved this video. Myself, I’m going 24V / single 6000w dual split inverter (power to be used 110/12/24/48/240) Aims or Sun Gold Power Inverter. My Cinderella Electric Toilet I’m going to use in my build needs 240v to operate. So I’m going to use compact marine (Mastervolt 24V) batteries for 840 A/hr storage capacity. So being a subscriber & learning from your channel along with other DIY has been a huge asset to me. Looking forward to seeing your next video. Keep up the great work! Blessings to y’all.

Perfect explanation, right to the point. We’re using 12v with 3000 watts of inverter. This is the max according to your guidelines.

Watching from Nigeria really appreciate your efforts, thanks man

Very helpful. Definitely helps me know where my system falls in the scope of things and simplifies my choices. Easy call once outlined like this.

Awesome perspective! I was trying to do some research on a 48V system and kept hitting dead ends and lots of open questions. Seeing this video helped explain why. I'm waiting for that 24V build video as I too was looking at the GC 3 batteries. As always Nate, you are amazing and helping our Sprinter build move along quickly. We are a few steps behind you just wrapping up Lizard Skin 🙂

Good video! I'm currently running 12-VDC solar, but I'm upgrading to a split system: 1) 12-VCD for all of the things designed for 12 volts; and 2) A 48-VDC system for my ductless mini-split and everything else using 120-VAC.

Thank you Nate! I've been waiting for this video specifically. Extremely helpful

Thanks for the video! Hopefully no one tried to hold you accountable for their lack of research.😬 I installed a 24v battery system in our bus and still used 4/0 wire from main busbar to the inverter(s). Really, the money saved for thinner wire (in a 1000amp system) isn’t worth the possible bottlenecks that could happen. 🤘🏼

Thanks for this information, I was thinking about going to a 48 volt system in our 35’ bus but I think I am going to scale down to a 24 volt system for the reasons you explained.

For a remote garden shed, used on weekends in the summer, a 24V system can be a cost-effective solution. There are also 24V accessories and lighting. It may then have to be a 12V DC lighting system.

I love your videos; can you add a video. What you recomend for equipment for Multiple TVs and Speakers for gaming trailer.

Enjoyed , well worth watching as this information I will need to know eventually. Hope to start a build next year. Cheers guys

Perfect timing! We’ve been considering 24V for our 1450W+ needs but feel a little confused since everything we’ve learned so far has been 12V. Super excited for the install video!

my Isuzu truck which is a 2010 Isuzu 300/75 NPS crew truck which full 24v thank you for your detailed video from Australia

Great video! I really like your "big picture" review. I'm so over battery teardown videos. (not that you did many of them)

You are a amazing teacher my friend! Thank you for the break down!

Its fine, I'll take the jab about frying the system lol and thank you thank you for the additional information, i didnt know about the victron add-ons. I know Ive been bugging you about the 48v system even flaggin you down at the Expo which I was as excited as a kid in a candy store seeing you two (my apologies, cant watch a channel for 4+ years and not be excited to meet you).

Great video Nate!! You just confirmed that I made the right decision to go with 24v. My decision was based on the AC unit and fridge as well as other components that were all 24v. For the small stuff in the RV such as lights I just use a Victron step down converter to 12v. My battery bank is a 24v 15.6KwH unit and 3000 watts of solar.

Thank you for your explanation it makes a lot of sense I appreciate it and keep up the good work🤗

Hi Nate that was very informative. This will be my second RV 5th Wheel solar install. My first was 12v 600ah of lithium batteries 1550w of Solar with all victron components. I was planning on a 48v setup but after watching your video I think 24v may be a better option this time but here is my situation. I will have the following 12v accessories. Disk brake pump (critical), hydraulic slides and leveling jack's, electric slides, 4 tank heaters, 12v compressor fridge, plus lights and water pump. The new system will have 800ah battery, 1600w of Solar with Victron components. Do you think I should keep it at 12 v, I can keep the cable size manageable with lynx components and having the inverter and battery bank close or have the 24v bank plus one 100 ah 12v battery connected to a 30amp DC-DC charger to take care of critical and high load 12v as well as connecting to the truck for charging, or use something else? I am very interested in your opinion. Many thanks.

wow dude, really loving your videos. subscribed

GREAT video, answered a few questions I had so, thank you.

great series of videos! For deciding 12v, does

Thank u Nate Good to see Will Here to Mate say Hello to Steph See u Next week Look Forward to another Camper Power Build Take Care

Great video! Thank you for what you do for the community.

Good vid, solid info and summary at the end.

Nate, Love your channel, I followed you plans last year for a 3000w inverter and 400 amp hours of batteries. I have not installed a roof rack and solar yet. And love the new series. I wanted to follow your recommendations with the roof rack and solar. Will my system handle all that solar and the AC unit?

Worth stressing that for relay or switch contacts, the DC rated current will be significantly lower than the AC rating (for the same contacts). This is because AC current drops to zero 120 times a second which helps quench any arc formed but with DC current it just keeps flowing so you need some other way to make sure you do not wear out contacts from arcing.

I've been following your RU-vid channel for a couple of years now and I am appreciate your knowledge and you take the time to put out these videos to teach us... I have a question just off the subject and maybe you can help me with because you are obviously know everything when it comes to AC, 12 volt and solar power.. You're basically an electrical engineer... So my question is I bought a 2009 travel trailer 2 weeks ago went to plug it in to 30 amp Shore power in it keeps tripping the shore power breaker.. I checked the Shore power with a multimeter and it is wired correctly and producing 130 volts so I pull out the campers fuse box and no loose wires and the breakers work fine on the AC side... So them I checked the inverter which is a Power Max that's only 3 years old and everything checked out okay with it as well... The funny thing is is I can use an adapter on my 30 amp plug and plug into a regular 110 20 amp residential Outlet and I get power it's just only 20 amps worth of power not the 30 that I need to run the residential refrigerator and the air conditioner at the same time.. Do you have any suggestions or advice about what my problem is or what to look for..? Thank you in advance...

Great explanation, thanks!

We are converting our 2003 ford cargo van to a camper van. We found the Goal Zero 3000 works best for our needs. Is there any advantage to using a 12v TV vs AC? If so do you have any recommendations?

I think 48V systems are becoming more viable for RVs. Victron's own 275A on/off switches are now officially rated at 60V DC, so work fine for 48V nominal systems. For higher amperages, you can get Dihool 400A circuit breakers rated for up to 200V DC for less than $100. I think for those putting in dual 5000VA inverters, 48V is the way to go. Still hoping for better selection of 48V DC-DC converters and chargers though. Also, the typical Mega fuses used in Lynx distributors are cheap for 12/24V systems (about $4 each), but much more money for 48V systems (about $30 each).

EXCELLENT tips thank you very much

I have a 270 amp alternator feeding 4 chassis batteries. These then power a dc to dc converter charging another 4 house batteries that are also 24 V. I have a 4000 W 24 V inverter/charger. I use a transformer off the batteries 24 V down to 12 V. This powers all the lights, ceiling fans, phones, etc. Everything else is 129 V, fridge, stove, tv. Has worked very well so far. I am considering solar but I think if I did it I would want to go with a few thousand watts. Not sure if its worth the investment or not.

A year ago, I decided to order a transit and started planning. I had decided to go with a 24v system and started buying components and researching. I am a week or two from doing the electrical system and was more than pleased that this dropped as actual details on 24v system installs are pretty close to non-existent!! Looking forward to your excellent presentation on a topic that desperately needs an explorist drop! Thanks, as always, for sharing! I just hunted your site for a 24v diagram and only found that monster system. Will you be adding a diagram for the system you are about to install in your van?

Thinking of adding 48 volt panels on top to charge an ecoflow 2000 watt battery bank. 12 volt charge will take 11 hours to charge, 48volt will charge in under 2.

Got a question for you Nate.. I have a 12v trailer.. four 100Ah BB lithiums, four 400w panels, Victron 150\100 controller, cerbo and bmv 712.. I recently bought a 48v Multiplus. I have 30a shore power as well.. just getting the RV ready for offgrid living. Is this a good combination..?

If I want to keep my 8 12v 100Ah lithium batteries in a line of 8 due to space constraints, can I join two groups of 4 12 v batteries in parallel (2 x 12v@400 Ah) and then those 2 in series to get a 24v system for 24v@400 Ah ? And by the way, you guys have a really informative and helpful channel. Keep it up !

So I'm doing a camper conversion with an enclosed trailer with standard exterior 12V LED lights. Each single light has the negative/ground attached the the frame (it seems most trailers do this). I already have 24V batteries that I want to use as my main bank. I plan to power the 12V trailer lights from a 12V panel (after the 24/12 converter, of course) from my main system. In other words, I'm not using the tiny 12V battery that came with the trailer. The big question is if I have a 24V Victron Multiplus II (2x120), will the ground wire from the Multiplus (connected to the metal frame) interfere with the grounds of 12V trailer lights already installed? Thanks for your great videos. Very helpful.

The DC fuse block looks so nice

I would like to install a 24 volt lithium batter system, 1200 AH. Wonder if you could discuss why, I am told, I need downstream of the 24/12 DC converter, a 12 volt AGM style battery. I have a diesel pusher motorhome and it is equipped with a switch that temporarily allows me to start the main engine with the house batteries. I suppose that the generator is also started from house batteries. I really do not understand why I just can't connect the 12 volt output from the converter to the 12 volt bus on my motorhome and all should be well? Please make a video explaining this. Thanks.

Thank you for making this video.

My needs consist of being able to plug these devices: my phone, laptop, convection oven, hot plate, heater , mini fridge (70 watts) 4. World it be better to just get an inverter generator?

Is there a solution for charging 24V batteries from the van's engine? I guess some dc/dc converter could work, but isn't that expensive and inefficient? what about finding lights and all other devices on 24V, isn't that an issue?

Can have 24v solar power going into a change controller them into a 12v battery

I have a question I hope you can answer. I'm getting 8 400 amp hour lithium batteries. I'm getting a 6000 watt inverter it has four 110 volt plugs and it has the terminal block that I can hook in 10 gauge wire. I will usually 10-gauge wire to hook into a 30 amp RV plug. I would then take the 30 amp RV plug coming from the camper and plugging it into the 30 amp RV plug it is hooked into the inverter. I was planning on then running everything in the camper off the lithium-ion batteries including the air conditioner. I was then going to buy a 48 volt charger to recharge the lithium batteries as needed off of an inverter gas generator. If you understand what I said here, will this work okay? I will not be charging the lithium batteries off the truck that will pull the camper.

Another excellent video, thanks.

Thanks for the video! I'm basically sold on the EG4 48v server rack batteries and the 6500EX-48 for my van. Would be perfect for running some of my power tools while working. The only thing that puts me off is the price of the 48v alternators to recharge battery bank... hopefully there are some more options within the next 12 months?

good info and simple straight to the point... i sub ..and you interact with your comments

Great info, thanks for the succinct video!

Incredible channel!!! You have my attention! I’m about ready to begin this project. Questions. Do you sell the Victron line or just the materials needed? Also do you offer one on one consultation if I have questions during the install? (Can I PM you for example)

For a Van, what would be the most appropriate roof air condition??

How many volts do you need for RV AC? Mine has a 25 fuse

I have a 24v system with 6v golf cart batts but will upgrade to lithium eventually, the remanufactured golf cart batts just won't go bad tho(it's been 4 years and still going)...

Does Victron have a solar.chsrge controller that can accept 24v/36v/48v input from the solar panels, but step down output to 12v to charge a 12v battery bank?

I went with a 24v system in a travel trailer to save some money. 1260W solar array, 10.2KWH battery bank. I used a DC-DC converters to step down to 12v for distribution panel and another for the tongue jack. E-brake, etc. However, there was one thing I did not consider. We have an onboard generator that has a 12v starter. So I also have a small 12v battery with a 12v charger just for the generator. Don't make my mistake :(

What if you fall into the first category but have an extensive mechanical(some electrical) background? I plan to order the nomadic cooling 3000 here soon and can't decide 12v or 24v. Would the only savings there be in the cost of wiring and connectors? I'm assuming the performance will be the same between the two? Can't wait for next weeks video, love the content!

Hello Nat, all your videos seem excellent to me, a lot of information and very clear. If possible, I would like to ask you a question. I have a 30ft travel trailer, it has a 110 volt 30 amp electrical connection. What would your opinion be if I installed a solar panel, a battery bank and a 48 volt inverter that would supply direct power to my 110 volt connector. Thanks for your help, I would really appreciate it.

Great video Nate. I'm assembling my first solar system for my class-b motorhome. I have 3 x 300w panels for the roof, could go 4 if needed. I'm going to run a 3kw inverter\charger\transfer sw. I have 2 200AH Lifepo4 batteries with room to add if needed. I have A\C (soft start), convection micro, 12v fridge, etc.. On this video you classified a system like mine as a small system, and to go 12v. I'm going 12v so I need to parallel my panels (cost isn't a big issue for wiring) my panels are 17.4 amps each x 3 so I will run a 100 amp 12v MPPT controller which will give me room to add a panel if needed. My question is, what size wiring will I need to inter-connect the panels on the roof, then what size down to my controller?

Hi Nate thank you for the amazing explanation! Is it possible to take a solar array producing 60v 16amp run it through a 12v, 24v, 48v MPPT solar controller and charge a 48v battery bank and then cut the solar array breaker, reconnect to the 12v bank using a 1, 2 off (non both) battery selector switch. One for the negative and another for the positive side, turn the breaker back on and reset the solar controller for 12v? If so or no is there a better way?

You can easily get 48/58/72/100V DC 250A power switches. search for emergency stop/switch/push button for electric forklifts. should cost

Excellent 👍 Thanks for information Jour language is realli understand)

Very good video, thanks ( nice sneeze)

Hello Nate. Im building a 1440w 24 volt solar system with 400ah 24v batteries. I cant not find the drawing to purchase from you for a 24v system like this. Can you point me in the right direction please ? Thank you!

Nate, would you comment on the EcoFlow inverter/charger 48v and alternative alternator charging ?

12v it is. Thank you for the intel report. 👍

Great video 👍🥇 You did a good summary for all 3 options . Now I need to know your opinion about the new Eco Flow 48 Volts system , used for any RV application. Will wait for your opinion and comments . Kindest regards 💌🌹

I’m interested in building a 24v setup similar to yours but can’t find any information on calculating the amount of AH I would get once converted to 12v. So if I used two 270ah Battle Born GC3’s wired for 24v and converted it to power 12v appliances how many ah or watts would I have? I’m not fully understanding how to calculate how many 12v AH I would get after being converted from 24v. Thanks for all the videos and outstanding information!

Around 1:50 when he is talking about which charge controller is compatible: does anyone recommend any videos to someone just starting to learn about wiring RVs? Ideally any vids for beginners on all the systems I should know? (Mechanical, electrical, how do people do bathroom and have a sink?)

Awesome video love the channel. Question please:: which is more efficient on a 40a mppt epever using 2x120ah agm batts and 4x120w 18v 7.7a PVs ....panels wired in parallel, series or series parallel?

Excellent video.

Great video

I purchased an all-in-one unit with two 48 volt server rack batteries for my camper. 2200 w on the roof of solar. I cut my shore power cord for the end and out and it goes to the RV electrical panel which already has a 12 volt converter that powers the camper . Still waiting for the all-in-one to finish the install, any thoughts?

Why would the switching problem mentioned be a problem for 48v when you could put a 12v switch on the input side of the converter?

Can you list some of the B2B chargers that turn the "12v" alternator power from the van into "24v" to charge a 24v battery bank please. I know an the 12v & 24v are nominal voltages. The vans alternator puts out more than 12v to charge a battery and a 24v battery will require more than 24v to charge it. Keep up the great work.

Is there a victron solar charge controller that can take 24v input and convert to 12v to charge your 12v battery system?

Great video! I’m about to purchase a victron set up but I’m conflicted between the multiplus and multiplus ll. I mostly see the plus being used though the plus ll has been out for years. Also the plus ll has steel case, spring connectors and is taller, all of which is concerning hearing about frying the unit if wires aren’t fully seated! I’m expecting my 170 sprinter in July? I’m leaning towards the plus with aluminum case. Help!?

We can use less than or equal to 2 AWG Cu wire in Texas.

Excellent, note Winnebago Boldt is 48V system

Ecoflow makes a system that can charge their 48 volt batteries from Alternators but it is super expensive. I plan on building a skoolie in the future that will have 4,400 watts of solar so that system will need to be 48 volts!

Now, of course, the Tesla Cybertruck will be 48Volts... otherwise I completely agree with you, 48V Victron Multiplus-II 48/5000/70 at home and a Multiplus-II 12/2000/80 in my off-road Caravan. Might be a change in the air in a year or two.

Hello, i have a 200w kit and one battery,(Redodo 100ah 12v)..im just using a smart charger to play with the battery and stuff i want to power.. which are just some USB powered Led lights,a road pro lunch box cooker,a 110w 110v crock pot (not at same time).. I just have a cigarette lighter plug with 2 USB outlets, the 100w duralast plug in inverter (just for that crock pot,it must run lower than the 110w its rated for because it powers it or the inverter is a bit more than the 100w its rated for.. Now that you know what i have,here's my question.. The lighter USB outlet, the wires are little,nowhere near the #4 wires, the holes to screw any wires to the controller are tiny.. the wires from the panels aren't even that big.. so I'm super confused about proper wire size and hooking it in.. im having difficulty just telling which is hot and ground on the panels too

Clear explanation 👍

I chose to run a 24v system for my skoolie specifically to use smaller wires and cheaper components. the last question I have for install is purely one of convention, as it makes no electrical difference but prevents confusion down the road: Do you use red or black wire for the series connection between the batteries? It makes no difference to the electrons, but I'd like to keep people from getting zapped.

Where do I buy a 48V alternator?

Thank you for making this video! As a person that is shopping for a class B RV with a focus on boondocking off of a lithium battery system, I came upon an RV that stated it had a "48V - 210 amp hour smart lithium battery providing 10KW hours of power... a 3,500W inverter.... and a 220 amp alternator with 2nd alternator (48V) dedicated to the lithium battery." As a person with very little knowledge of RV electrical systems, I was wondering what you would think of a setup like this? In practical terms of powering an RV fridge, air conditioner, etc., for a good amount of hours? I can imagine there are many variables in attempting to calculate something like this, but would love your advice on if this setup seems good to let's say,... powering the a/c (13,500 BTU 48V Coleman-Mach 10 air conditioner) throughout the night on a hot summer day. Thank you so much.

I bought everything to run my camper st 48v :/. Would you recommend any kind of converter ?

Excellent explanations as usual... Gesundheit!

Hello, I'm from Brazil and I'm thinking about building an expedition motorhome with a 48 volt battery bank. Today in 2024 would you set up a 48 volt system? Has your opinion changed regarding 2022? Do we today have components to assemble a motorhome at 48 volts and safely take loads from a 12 volt alternator?