Hello all, Lately I have been wrkg on my model 23 Briggs Stratton it has a starter a delco remy 110-1680 starter. I had a good battery the solenoid coil did click, not by much tho. I rebuilt it. I drilled out the 4 rivets and cleaned the armature which was rusty, a good vice and wire brush wheel are .great to have. . . I got a new spring cut it to the size in the solenoid then with 4 brass bolts nuts an washers, had it together and it is working fine. Sometimes with old engine, the primary winding of the ignition coil is usually good but the winding for the sparkplug is bad. . .I found I could put the battery side or primary coil of a regular auto ign. coil in series with the wire from magneto coil to points wire, so, the heavier lesser turns coil of the magneto could work the ignition coil, other side of coil went to points. I am just doing what some dirtbikes have, a low voltage magneto down on left side of engine, wire comes up to ignition sw, kill switch to ignition coil then back down to the points, this way you may not need a battery for ignition.
Could be a typo, but the instructions in this video say to jump field to battery for an A circuit. However, the original tractor manual says this will damage the regulator.
When you say "polarize" do you mean to 'flash the field windings' to re-new magnetic field to the field poles, say if the tractor had not been used for some time? The 3 jobs of the well known voltage regulator. #1 controls the output voltage across armature by means of the voltage sensitive relay, the coil of a great many turns of lite gage wire. when the voltage reaches a pre-determined level, the magnetic field overcomes spring tension of that relay and opening the contacts, the field current must now pass through a resistor to ground, less magnetic field on the field poles causes less voltage across the armature. #2 Reverse current relay, this relay is the go-between the battery and generator when the battery voltage is greater than that of the generator. Some companies do this differently, having a coil core with two different windings so the magnetic fields cancel. In other words ten turns of a very heavy wire will create as much magnetic field as a coil with many many turns with a lot less current flowing through it. When the generator starts to put out more voltage, the field made by the voltage coil is now adding to the field of the heavy wire coil that carries the current, the fields + and the contacts close and the battery begins to charge. #3 Overcurrent protection, it may not take long to burn out a generator with a big load and no means of controlling the current. Therefore a relay is would with turns of wire, the same size as what the generator's armature is good for. when the current drawn is exceeding the generator's safe output, the relay close and a resistance placed into the field circuit, reducing the magnetic field on the field poles, the voltage goes down as does the current. If you see a coil would with a lite gage wire, it is a voltage coil, changes of a few 1/10s of a volt can exert enough pull on the armature. these coils are across the source of voltage. Coils of a few turns are coils for carrying current and are in line with the source, meaning current must flow through it before it goes anywhere else. An analogy of volts and current can be made by means of water comparison. a water tank the city of Plant City could be two hundred feet off the ground. two pipes coming to the ground are 1 inch and 12inches. a pressure gage hooked to each will have the same value, in 'water pressure' {volts} but the 12 inch pipe will allow more gallons per minute {Amperes} to flow. Amperage is the electrical equivalent of mechanical torque. Voltage is the mechanical equivalent of mechanical speed. This can easily be proven, You may remember in science class an experiment that consisted of an old telephone magneto hooked to a small lamp. when the lamp was out of the circuit, by say a knife switch, It was easy to crank over the magneto. BUT when the lamp was inserted into the circuit, current flowed through the windings of the magneto's armature, making said armature a strong magnet and the electro- magnets of the armature were being attracted to the poles of the field magnets, those horseshoe magnets.
I just wanted to say thanks for all of this info. You broke it down well and that's what I need, I feel people that have the best of intentions to teach don't always realize things that seem simple to them is new and complicated to someone never even hearing of these things before.
@@Amberlynnslivertit You are very welcome, I went thru that at one time. I had to take it in bites, not the whole cake at once. and yeah I went to trade school, did my best there while academic studies took a big dump! after a while tho it got easy, I mean how could I expect to pull 20 amps thru a hair like wire. I did a lot of experiments that backed up what the books were saying. funny it was telegraphy that got me to know how the reverse current relay worked, voltages going thru two coils wound in opposite directions, current from arm, also went to a voltage coil on same core with a series/amps coil. the voltage coil knew when it could work the rev, current relay to charge and closed the contacts then the current relay kept them close too, but when the gen volts dropt, battery current flowed back to the gen thru rev current relay and the magnetic fields of the series and voltage coil workt against each other, no pull and the armature of the relay opened.
Well this was very helpful. But thank god I have 2 regulators and 2 generators, so I have a plan B if I do ever mess up lol. Although after this video I think I'm good to go, thank you.
I just restored an old bolens 1053 and installed a new voltage regulator. Problem I am having now it the fusible link is overheating and the plastic melted. The generator seems to be running hot too.
I think you will find that the terminal marked 'L' is for light - i.e. the charge warning light, not 'load'. in the case of a vehicle based system the 'load' is the battery itself (and electrical system of the vehicle of course). I have encountered two different arrangements for the charge light, most common is the system in which one pole of the warning light is supplied with battery power through the ignition switch when the ignition is turned on, and the other pole of the light is connected to the 'L' terminal of the regulator (through the wiring harness). When the generator is producing power and the regulator is operating correctly, the same voltage that is being supplied to the battery is supplied to the 'L' terminal, and hence to second pole of the warning light. As the first pole is already being supplied with the same voltage by the ignition switch, the light has no grounded side (negative) and so the light does not illuminate. If, however, the generator is not producing power, the regulator switches the 'L' terminal to chassis ground (negative), which gives the already electrified (from the ignition switch) warning light a connection to chassis ground (negative) and hence the light then illuminates.
+Peter Duffy.. Thanks for the feedback! On this tractor the wiring from "L" terminal of the regulator goes to the ingition switch which sends power the ingition coil, points, and spark to the engine. It could also power the lights or another load.
'L' is "Load" and not Light. 'B' is Battery, and your ammeter monitors the charging of the battery and not the output of the generator/starter. B is always connected to battery/hot, and L may or may not be hot depending on running conditions. The light you speak of can vary in brightness, which is due to differences in the L and B terminals, but your description allows only an on/off brightness (and would have a very annoying operating characteristic to the motor!). It is true that in these tractors, most loads will be Lights, but also is the ignition system. Ref source: AC Delco Regulator documentation.
Please excuse my ignorance because I have very little understanding of these electrical systems so perhaps I need to have a "basics" tutorial first before listening to your lecture. Can you give me a clue how this whole system works so I can follow along ?
My Cub 100 sat for about a year without starting. I put a new battery in and turned it over. It would turn but not start. Could this be the reason why?
Why in the world would you have to do this task by replacing the brushes or battery ? Nothing has been changed in the flow of the electrical system. So why would you have to polarize it ? You've got the wrong info on this system...
It is just something that has to be done with a generator system. The generator is producing DC current and DC circuits have polarity (a positive and a negative). AC circuits (alternators) do not have polarity.
