I wanted to add my voice to the chorus of people who approve of and want people to get the self-ratcheting tensioner. It's fantastic. Thank you, Jim, for making these, making these videos, and making yourself available to answer questions during the installation.
Thank you for taking the time to add a comment. I replaced an aging 1986 Nissan pickup that had the Z24 engine in it, with my current 1997 Nissan D21 with the KA24E. I noticed right away the Z24 engine had much more low end power than the KA24E. Was disappointed with the KA24E, always seemed slow on take off up to about 2000rpms then engine would kick in with power. I asked Nissan mechanics about this, was told it was normal, that I would never get low rpm power out the KA24E that matched the Z24. Since I installed the ratchet tensioner the sluggish low end power is gone, I disproved what the Nissan mechanics had told me. Its now got strong even power through all rpms. Its got spunk like my old Z24 had. On another issue: A lot of KA24Es that have had head and or block milled are experiencing low power due the problem that milling causes. Milling these engines lowers the head by amount of material that was removed during milling process. This lowers the camshaft which ends up retarding the valve timing. Only way to bring the valve timing back in sync with crank shaft timing is to advance camshaft a couple of degrees. I am working on an adjustable camshaft sprocket to help these milled engines get their power back, so far it looks promising. Will be making a video on this if all works out to plan..
I don't have noise on start up but getting something on deceleration I've checked the chain and it's got a lot of slack in it thinking of going this route you've videos help a lot
Several years ago I was having a rattle/ping noise at down shift deceleration. Sound was high pitched, almost like drive line noise, checked U-joints, couldn't figure it out for months. Finally I was able to get it make the noise while sitting in driveway. Ended up coming from the inside of exhaust pipe just in front of catalytic converter, something loose bouncing around in there at deceleration, I left it and it went away. There is a heat shield on exhaust manifold, check the fasteners to it, they seem to work themselves loose sometimes, if its loose it will rattle at deceleration.
Excellent! New videos. Just sent you an email regarding one of your kits. Like to see you do series of a complete rebuild of on one of these motors! That would be great.
Здравствуйте благодарю вас за ваши видео, очень понятно !! Хотелось бы узнать номер детали с механическим храповиком, который последний в видео?! Подскажите пожалуйста
@@jamesmartin5370 works great in my 96 nissan xe clubcab. ratchet tensioner purchased over a year ago. no more rattle,, also replaced plastic guides, and removed oil pan to get broken plastic guides out. new chain and gears also installed at the same time. truck runs, and sounds new. thanks mr jim!!!
@@proudamerican6763 Thanks, Everyone who has installed these self-adjusting ratchet tensioners are experiencing an increase of engine performance just as you describe.
@@jamesmartin5370 I have a problem with my air conditioning belt squealing I think the belts are listed wrong in the book, the alternator belt and the AC belt are reversed oh, do you have any insight on that?, because the air conditioning belt keeps squealing no matter how much they tighten it, and it only happened after it was replaced with a new belt, before that it never squeal
@@proudamerican6763 1st check pulley alignment. I have seen belts squeal only to find one of the pulleys is off-set from all the others. Depending on what they removed to replace the belt, could be something as simple as leaving out a spacer or shim in one of the assembles that also is connected to the belt.
Sir, I heard similar sounds on starting, and the frequency of the knocking sounds is high as I revs the rpm high. It's directly proportional to the rpm. Also, still at idle the knocking sound still exists. How can I confirm without opening the engine cover? Thanks.
Thang, Several options you can trouble shoot before opening the engine cover. To eliminate possibilities of the noise being on outside of engine. Remove all fan belts and start engine and see if noise is gone, or you could also use a hose up to one ear or a mechanics stethoscope and probe around the outside of engine. Air trapped in power steering pump can cause cavitation noise, alternator bearing, powersterring pump bearing, idler bearing, water pump bearing can all make similar sounds so first eliminate these then move forward from there.
@@jamesmartin5370 Also, the rpm drops to 650 recently as against the normal 850 to 900, and with All TB unit, iscv cleaned, coil pack etc all ok, the rpm still at 650 and little engine vibration too. However, when I revs to 850, no vibration at all. And, lastly, the engine heats up very soon but no warning signals from instrument cluster. Visit service centre, and scanned, but no codes at all. All ok. Actually, I am trying to fix this low rpm however, still not get fixed. Please kindly help. Thanks.
@@tnamen1307 low rpm shudder is common on these my opinion is the emissions systems is dragging the idle down too low for smooth operation, good luck getting your rpm up, try slight timing adjustment
Those were superseded with the adjustable piston which can be found at: www.martin-industries.net/ Adjustable piston is a manual adjustment of excess chain slack, given time future adjustments may be needed by adding another shim to it. For self adjustment of excess chain slack use the self adjusting ratchet tensioner.
No, KA24E and KA24DE tensioners have different configurations and bolt holes are spaced differently. I am no longer fabricating the above self adjusting ratchet tensioners, so at the moment only options to manually adjust the excess chain slack is the tensioner spacer and adjustable piston.
If it uses the BECK/ARNLEY 024-1892 and the piston diameter of the tensioner piston is .570", Then Yes the Tensioner Spacer will fit your tensioner. But I would caution if your engine has a Variable Timing Sprocket mounted on it because a chain that is too snug will not let the Variable Timing Sprocket operate correctly. If you engine has a Variable Timing Sprocket, your problem may be the Variable Sprocket malfunctioning or The BECK/ARNLEY 024-1892 tensioner uses a ratchet style piston and its possible the teeth are damaged on the ratchet system. You can email me at jamesmart55@hotmail.com to further discuss the possibility of using this part on your engine.
I have same problem of first crank in the morning.I replaced a new tensioner but the problem still there,now i bought a spring tensioner it started well and I come to realize after one week it started again.What could be the problem.now in the morning it has a rattling sound after a few seconds it goes silent.imediatly when you switched it off and start, it's okay running smoothly.please help
Yes, The KA24DE can have upper and lower chain noise, you will need to trouble shoot and find out which chain is making the noise , the primary hydraulic tensioner is of the same design as the KA24E, I have the Tensioner Spacer and the adjustable piston that can be used to adjust any excess slack out of the lower chain. For the upper chains new plastic shoes can be installed if the old ones are worn. The shoes on these wear fast from the chain so you should inspect the shoes and go from there. Send me an email at jamesmart55@hotmail.com and I will send you some information you can look at.
