If its never been milled, the stock sprocket should give plenty of power if the chain is snug, source is not the camshaft adjustment. If you are running the stock tensioner, this is most likely the source. Stock tensioners allow the chain to go slack as more and more hours are accumulated on the timing chain and sprockets. Low power at lower RPMs on these engines is due to the piston in the stock tensioner collapsing under the stress generated from the valve springs working against the cam shaft. In short, at lower RPMs, a loose chain allows the camshaft to float around and the result is the valves are out of time with the crankshaft. This condition seems to correct itself up around the time to shift to next gear, about 2500 RPMs, then usually a power boost can be felt from the engine. A Self Adjusting Ratchet Tensioner will restore full power to the lower RPMs on these engines.

⁠@@jamesmartin5370makes sense to me. Thanks for the input. I picked up your sprocket anyway, in the event that I do need to adjust a degree or two in the future. Thanks for helping keep these trucks on the road.

There is a Nissan Factory Engine Manual available here: www.nicoclub.com/service-manual?fsm=Hardbody%2F1997+D21+Truck%2Fem.pdf See page 89 shows how to align timing marks on countershaft and oil pump before you slide oil pump in. Even then you will need to check on distributor side if the countershaft end is clocked as shown on same page. If its now clocked as shown, you won't be able to rotate distributor enough to bring into time, if this happens, you will need to pull out distributor and rotate shaft slightly and try again.

I have seen similar fixes done over here as well. These are great engines, except for the stock tensioners. Thank You....

Thanks, I'll look in to that next time pull the timing chain cover off.

I've done these on the D21s, takes about 2 hours compete. It can be done without removing radiator.

In Spokane Valley, Washington State

Heaters were available as an add-on item. This one had a manifold heater at one time but the previous owner removed it and discarded it. I was the third owner of this car, not a whole lot had gotten changed from its original design. It now rests in the Wheels and Spokes Car Museum in Kutztown, Pennsylvania. This museum has the largest collection of Hudson Cars in the world.

@@jamesmartin5370 Hudson was always ahead of the curve. Interesting to look at them compared to what others had to offer. Too bad they didn't make it. I'm a big fan, hope to own one some day.

I believe it was Nissan's original intent to change the chains at a major engine overhaul, since they don't have a recommended interval change out listed for these timing chains. The self adjusting ratchet tensioner is the best item I have seen for this start up rattle issue so far.

Yes, if the chain has slack in it the camshaft will be out of time with the crankshaft and so the valves won't be opening and closing at the correct time in relation to the pistons. In these engines, this can be felt when taking off from a dead stop and attempting to gain speed up to about 50 miles an hour or so, you will feel a lagging/lack of power from start up to about 2500 rpms, then, at about 2500 rpms you will be able to feel a power boost, but then when shifting to the next gear the loss of power will be there again up to about 2500 rpms. This low power band in the lower rpms is the result of a slack chain and valves being slightly out of time with crank shaft. If the chain is rattling at start up, chances are high the engine will have low power issues in the lower rpm range. Self adjusting tensioner to date is the best fix for this issue.

@@jamesmartin5370 thanks very much this help I live in a place that have a lost of hills big hills an like going half way up it died second got to go to frist gear

No problem, It has helped out a lot of folks with these engines. They sure make these engines perform at their best.

Thank You for the feedback. Yes, these have saved a lot of people from the loose chain issue with these engines. Surprising how much better these engines run with a snug chain. Best wishes

Thank You...

Website is in the discerption.

I looked over the tensioners used on the 2005 Nissan, they are not designed in a way for my modifications to work, not able to give any help on this engine.

Thanks, We now have a self adjusting tensioner that works great as a fix for eliminating excess chain slack in these engines.

LOL...Yep, hot summer day and air trapped in those latex gloves.

Thanks, glad it all turned out for the positive...

Thanks Ehren, These give the 22R engines more power same as they do for the KA24 engines.

Great to hear Ryan, those are a quick manual adjustment to snug the chain up. Did you notice an increase in power in yours?? Toyota 22r engines have the same tensioner issues as the KA24Es.

@@jamesmartin5370 possibly a little bit, my slack wasn't awful though, I needed to use the two biggest shims only to get my play out. My egr is also a bit clogged since I haven't been doing any drives longer than 10 minutes recently, so that probably is holding me back as well.

Thanks...

Thanks, We have now come out with a self adjusting tensioner that has been working good for keeping the chain slack free.

Great, Several guys have mentioned about making an install video but haven't seen any as of yet, will be looking forward to it.

Should come out good for you. I have a couple videos on how to provide a tensioner access hole in the front cover. You may want to consider modifying the front cover by installing an access hole to re-set the adjustable tensioner if needed. If you ever pull the cam sprocket off in the future, the chain will go slack and the self adjusting ratchet tensioner will ratchet all the way out. It can be difficult to reach down to reset the tensioner piston without removing the front cover, an access hole in the front cover will make re-setting the tensioner piston easier.

Chain measured out great, well within Major Roller Chain Mfgs. specs. Sprocket teeth were worn, and stock tensioner wasn't able to hold chain snug at start-up. A better long term fix is to install a self adjusting ratchet tensioner, the piston on these lock in place, then self adjusts as sprocket teeth and chain stretches.

Yes, oil check valve system is still 100% operational. Font cover will need to be modified to provide clearance for paw to operate, so far its the best modification to prevent chain slack on these engines

@@jamesmartin5370 Thanks, that's awesome! My current pretty new OSK tensioner seeps oil/air out of that pressed in steel plug in the back of the housing, not sure what it's for but I don't think is normal and causing all kinds of rattles in there.

@@ivtec4fun55 The plug in back of tensioner is the seat for the check valve assembly. It shouldn't leak, that plug where its pressed into the tensioner is under high oil pressure when the piston is holding the chain snug. If its rattling, the piston is collapsing allowing chain to go slack. OSK has quality products, the stock tensioner design is not as good as a self adjusting ratchet tensioner.

@@jamesmartin5370 Appreciate it! Order has been placed! 🤘 I'm pairing it with the HD metal guides, should be solid.

Es bueno saber que la instalación salió bien.

Parts are already over a month late, I am hoping no more than a month, I had my order in several months ago but shipping lately is unreliable.

@@jamesmartin5370 ok gonna try and keep up so I can catch it on time

Yes it will cause problems eventually. The chain will sluff off plastic particles from the plastic guide on tension side of chain and mix in the oil, and eventually the plastic guide usually end up breaking and falling into oil pan. If left long enough the chain will cut the metal backer of the guide in half and then the chain will cut a hole in the coolant jacket on timing chain cover directly behind the guide. Eventually coolant will mix with engine oil. Some rigs last for years rattling before this happens others it happens quite quickly.

Thanks, Everyone seems to like them, I have been running one in my 97 for close to 10 years now, a huge amount of performance benefits.

Yes, mpg and performance. Many KA24E owners complain of low power from these engines from idle up to about 2500 rpms, then slightly past 2500 rpms the engine kicks in with a power band. Source of low power up to about 2500rpms is from camshaft backlash, it allows valve timing to float around at lower rpms so the valve timing is not in sync with the crankshaft timing. Stock tensioners don't seem to be able to hold the chain snug at lower rpms.

@@jamesmartin5370 I had a rattle issue in 2019 which you helped with as I bought a manual tensioner from you, now I overhauled the engine, and want to use your ratcheting tensioner, and use an oem chain, and maybe your adjustable cam sprocket as well. I am doing 20 mpg on average, and yes I have an idle to 2500 rpm power struggle. Thanks for all you do; as you have helped thousands improve their beloved KA 24s

@@briemosborne7017 Thanks Briem, So far about 8 years of supplying these and all positive reviews.

Anytime camshaft sprocket timing punch mark is at approximately 3:00 o'clock, No# 1 piston is at TDC Compression stroke. Anytime camshaft sprocket timing punch mark is at approximately 9:00 o'clock, No# 1 piston is at TDC Exhaust stroke. Mark the chain when camshaft sprocket timing punch mark is at approximately 3:00 o'clock and move forward from there.

You can visually see if you pull valve cover and have someone start it for several seconds, then shut it down immediately, stay clear of any moving parts of course. In short, what we saw was the piston in tensioner was moving in and out, it was completely collapsing, probably because no oil behind it, just was not holding chain from oscillating from side to side.

The shaft you mention is probably one of the two guide fasteners. If its not fixed, the chain will cut the fastener in half then cut a hole in the coolant jacket and antifreeze will leak into the oil. This should be fixed, how many miles on the engine? I have seen these engines last for 400,000 miles and more trouble free.

@@jamesmartin5370 140,000 but it has been a problem since i got it around 135,000 the previous owner knew about it. i was just the sucker who didnt when purchasing. it will be a total of 300$ for all gaskets and parts including a brand new timing cover where it is wearing into the coolant portion of it is only 80$. new water pump is 45$ and a new thermostat and guides are like 50$ might as well replace all of it if im going down there. so far 1/3 of the shaft is gone and its very close to penetrating the wall near the coolant.

@@sipmeister3611 That shaft you speak of sounds like the tension side guide fastener instead of a rotating shaft. It sounds like the engine is a pre 1996 model, they had the all plastic tension side guides in them with long fasteners, they were dis-continued in 1996. I came up with a process that can be used to remove those tension side fasteners and guides without the need to remove front timing chain cover, you may want to look at the video. I also came up with a process to install the ratchet tensioner without removing the front timing chain cover, you may want to look at those videos before you cash in for a chain job if time and money are a concern. Those chains should last 180,000 or close to 200,000 so still some life left in it.

@@jamesmartin5370 i checked your channel but no luck

@@sipmeister3611 Some of the following videos cover the ratchet tensioner and tension side guide issues, also how remove and replace without removing front of engine See # 22, #17, #16, #15,#14, #11, #12, #9

Thanks Ken, Most of the people installing these notice the power increase as you mention. If you ever change out the chain you can reuse the ratchet tensioner as well.

Different length pistons would probably work, however to install front timing chain cover will need to be removed to install the longer piston due to clearance problems with slack side guide, only one inch of clearance between front of tensioner and guide. I have never tried a heaver spring, it may work, give us some feedback if you do this. Haven't had any complaints of shims wearing out.

@@jamesmartin5370 I think I will do the self adjusting kit. Only issue is do I need to put an access panel in? Or it seems it can be removed from above with a wrench? In the video with the access panel is already there. I assume it is drilled. I have not seen a video showing install of the self adjustable tensioner. without the access panel. I had planned to just do the new chain and tensioners but it looks like it will just rattle within a short time anyway. Plus massive more labor. It would be cool if the slack guide could the modified or added to the get the same effect of lengthening the tensioner. I wonder if a extra spring could be added somewhere as well. I had just saw a comment about a heavier spring but it needs to be quality and how much tighter would you go? I guess no need to reinvent the wheel it seems like the martinindusties fix it was works good and it reliable. I need a thermostat as well so I better get to work. Its my 4th car just picked up and winter makes it run very cold without cardboard in front of the radiator.

@@TimZ007 Yes, You will need to install an access panel. I have done this, radiator can stay in if you use a 90 degree angle drill motor or you can purchase a 90 degree angle drill attachment that will fit on most drill motors. I have 15 or 20 videos on this subject, a couple on how to locate the access panel. You can access the two fasteners on the tensioner through the valve cover, however when loosening them they contact the front timing chain cover before the threads free themselves of the engine block, so no advantage to trying this.

To my knowledge, slack side design was not changed, the tension side was re-designed sometime between 1995 and 1996 from 100% plastic to a metal backed plastic faced guide. The re-designed tension side had a metal backed piece for strength and a slip on plastic piece that had locking tabs, plastic was used to hold down noise of chain on bare metal. If you engine was produced in late 1995 it may have the newer guide in it.