1381 How To Make A Conductive Ink 

Interesting

Could be used for as a the premise to create DEG (raindrop panels)

@Echo Thanks for the advice, it's been years since I've had antibiotics so I will most definitely ask tomorrow and get some. You would think it would be a mandatory course of action for a pharmacist to advice. Thanks for your time.

You graphitized it . Well done . I did that with a pillow full of feathers

Hi, if i want to use a waterproof binder such as polyurethane (varnish), does that mean that the carrier must be waterproof also (eg. organic solvents)?

@@nanatv1507 Yes all carrier must be waterproof.

yeah, id forgot about hot linotype, updated for a diy desktop plus (additive) wand electroplating can become the diy (till roll sized) roll to roll pilot line/test production line with working end products useable for shed power walls etc as apposed to expensive commercial end product.

The short answer is "no" because, other than super conductors and silver, copper is the best conductor we know of. Carbon is not a bad conductor but not a patch on copper. If you use a thicker ink (paint), then the resistance will decrease but you will not get (for a given cross section) a better conductor than copper. BUT - the same can be done with air float copper and silver, but I am not sure who to suggest you make these without using fairly hazardous chemicals (mostly nitric acid). Arguably - you could make colloidal silver - let the generator run indefinately and then evaporate away the excess water - and then add to a binder as the video I don't want to suggest how to process silver with nitric acid on someone elses video channels BUT if you are interested and search for how to refine silver, it is when you then precipitate out the silver by adding strips of copper that you get "silver foam / silver fluff / silver sponge" which is incredibly fine silver powder. You can then ALSO use clean iron and do the same again to remove the COPPER from the solution - you now have ultra fine copper powder too - which again can be used to make conductive paints. Commercial silver loaded paint is goppingly expensive - more than pure silver usually gram for gram - but home made can work extremely well and be (somewhat) more modestly priced. Most carbon conductive paint is really aimed at fairly modest current handling (LED's sensors etc) rather than trying to replace copper wire that needs to handle serious power.

as i recall they ,like the uk roll to roll plastic gfx display companies over priced their product to industry only not one off retail per batch made & so you cant get a4 screens or plastic pv on mass for cheap as per the initial premise today.

Apparently Cod Liver Oil helps with ADHD, i know cause i tried it lol

Use desktop browser.

see his older lead acid video's

You mean negative and positive plates when you say 'both ends' ? The carbon on positive plates may get oxidised to co2 after some charge cycles .

@@michaelcorbidge7914 like how many charges before it stops working thank y

It'd be less than ten charges. I've watched heaps of his videos and still stuff in my memory about lead acid . Negative plate is fine but positive is no go for carbon . Question arises then does a carbon electrode during hydrolysis for hydrogen production also if used get slowly oxidised . Carbon rods are always the immediate items to use as electodes and we never think more about it.

@@michaelcorbidge7914 thank you

Add some junction, please :) Look at all the perovskites papers; in model measure, ok, then add the magic to keep it lasting long enough to be sold :) This is the point where the papers get fuzzy not to tell too much and where it starts looking like alchemy.

give it a go. diy wet ball milling any copper2 should do ,photonic sintering copper/ali oxide with a light 3d printer etc could produce fine detail's too perhaps if you can find the right light freqencies -or just blitz it with pulsed lime light, spock 'Operation Annihilate!' style lol-

depends on how fluid it becomes after you have added all the ingredients you want to try.. adding varnish thinners like generic white spirits (mineral spirits) or turpentine as a solvent reducer before you start might work better for extending the cure time in air

@@paulmaydaynight9925 thank you

How did it come out?

@@154g it's conducting all right. After drying, its not at all flexible. Very brittle, if I touch it, black powder falls off. Perhaps I should try a different brand of Varnish, so that its not so brittle

see his older milk + tea based plastic's video's :P