15 minutes for Audi A4 S4 B5, A6 C5, Allroad LCD Replacement for Pixel Repair 

B5 s4 ?

B5 S4

@@dins.garage Mine was A6 C5 2.8L but the processes is similar on all others.

We are using this trick for many other repairs too - very easy and informative.

There is really not much to it as long as the proper good tools are available. If not - easy repair may turn into the disaster :)

Facts

I’m not sure where are you located, but if in the US you can send it to us. Typically takes 1-2 business days for the repair plus time in shipping.

For Audi B6 the procedure is completely different- no soldering required. There are solutions to install the color display instead of red. For something like that you are looking to spend - $300-500 or in that roundabouts.

Back in a days I did have 2001 A4 with a half display. Was doing exactly same thing as yours. Same problem as with the full size LCD - needs to be replaced. Circuit boards looks different, but the procedure is very similar.

Thank you :-) would you by any chance where i can source one here in Europe? Would you happen to know the partnumber i need to look for?

try MiniTools from Italy. They may have half size LCD.

I don’t, but assume around 3v.

fernarias , in your case, I guess, the problem wasn’t with the missing pixels (lines) but with the whole screen being blank completely. If this is the case it is an isolated issue. I didn’t see cold solder joints so far on those clusters in regards to the pixelation issue. There were, however, quite a few cases on Audi TT’s cold solder joints causing backlight to go off.

Reflow doesn't help. In a simple words the bad connection is where the ribbon cable attaches to the LCD.

It happens :)

Out of focus at important times I suspect.

You tell us :)

Junk yard will help you.

If you are considering this as a damage - you probably did never see what the real damage people do to those clusters :)

You’ll need a hot air station and a soldering iron.

And what sort of glue is it? It look like not very easy to realise 🙁

What glue?

If I’m not mistaken there are dozen of them on RU-vid already

370-400 should be ok :)

Best Pixel Repair Thank you very much! Wish you a nice day!

Hi, we only do the pixel repair. Sorry, don’t carry the pointers for sale.

Turn the pointer CCW to their rest positions. They turn easily.

It’s possible that those are blanks/not in use. There are like 30% or less of active contacts. The rest are the blanks.

Please check out the description under the video. You can make your choice based on the Audi model that you have Jaeger for TT or VDO for A4, A6 or Allroad .

​@@HETPEZB Aliexpress the screen cost under $10 and you selling it for $79 that's mad

How lucky do you consider yourself? You get the display with a more or less good quality picture after you purchase from how many different sellers on AliExpress 1-5-15 or never? All displays there looking absolutely identical on their picture, but have different brightness/contrast.

The links are in the description below the video

It's a flux. Helps the solder to flow.

Best Pixel Repair thanx for your Info! 👍👍👍

It calls "A sweet feeling". Sorry, no artist was mentioned.

@@HETPEZB I found, thank you👍

We still do the repairs, but I think you can find someone in Europe fixing those.

It calls Hot Air Station :)

Never saw the discrepancy myself for a4, a6 or allroad. Can’t comment on your question.

I usually check it with the microscope.

Please check out the description below the video :)

@@HETPEZB I was obviously blind... Saw it now thanks.

@Best Pixel Repair hey, if a couple of the "fingers?" or the connections on the board get lifted off during the removal of the old LCD Display is it possible too save or is the hole board shot??? Any help will be awesome!? Thank-you!

A lot of them (I would guess 60%) are actually unused at all. There is a good chance that the broken ones are among those :) And if they are lifted but not torn - you can carefully align them back.

Cluster contains the mileage.

we use this one - amzn.to/2D4PNzl

Soldering paste is not the flux. It’s solder fractures. Not sure how to safely get away without the heat gun. Traces are very delicate and it’s easy to torn them off the board.

Premium LCD contrast and brighness are much closer to OEM than regular display. Warranty is the same.

Speaker?

Thank you.

Yes. If the car is equipped with Immo - it won’t even start without the reprogramming.

It’s like diagnosing over the phone :)

Mine displayed the brake pedal message perfectly first 2 times but went garbled then all red when the car was started and driven. What is going on?

@Billy97ify , need to replace again.

@@HETPEZB Is it damaged or not soldered properly?

@Billy97ify , I don’t have a crystal ball, but since you said it was working for a little bit there is a chance the display is not good, but of course the soldering may be bad too and something just let go.

Unfortunately we are not so deep into the Audi module communication, but if you are suspecting the cluster to be responsible for loosing the communication I would suggest to get a used cluster from 2000 A6, connect it and run the diagnostic. If the communication will resume - you'll know that the original cluster is bad. It will be a first step. Of course may be someone else could propose a better solution.

Thanks for your answer and advise.

Juat remove the cluster ans try to connect car with vcds..

I think I tried that before in removing the data dialog (gateway) cluster it seems it needs to be connected. The terminal resistance on the data bus is not 120 Ohm it appears the cluster is causing that too. Instead 4.5 MOhm the voltage on the K-Line just 0.35 Volt to the OBD diagnose port. The CAN Bus may still work. I may be able to communicate with any other module on the data bus by removing the cluster not to the ECU to read fault data or delete. The airbag light came on after cold night I don't care either. I think I live with the problem the rest of the system gives me still ok and everythings works beside the OBD connection problem and the fragmented FIS display still can read "something". To find a second hand cluster and reprogarmme is also a hazzle. Anyway, thanks guys, as long as it still drives.. a new cluster which are not available anymore is a third of the retail value of my A6 2.7t Its now allergic agains outside computer and diagnose… LOL

The K-line goes to all the modules in the car. "Any module that happens to fail" such that it holds the k-line to 12V or Ground will prevent communication over the K-line entirely. Yes this sucks. In the 'old Audi' days all of the K-line wires from every module all terminated in 1 place - sort of a glob of connections. If there was a problem, you just unplugged them 1 by one until it worked. Then you instantly knew which module was at fault. Quite often an aftermarket radio installation would cause this. It isn't that easy anymore - there is no centralized interconnect of the K-linewires. So basically you just go around to all the modules and unplug them until the K-line comes back to normal. You of course start with the common ones to give K-line problems (ABS, radio), followed by the ones which are easiest to get to like the instrument cluster which is the hub. If you get them all unplugged and it's still shorted then you have a wiring problem - the actual K-line bus itself is shorted somewhere . If you can talk to everything but the ECU - you don't have a k-line problem, just an ECU problem. From the dealers diagnosis it seems that is not the case, though. Answers: 1 - I wasn't able to get a connection at all. In Program Options, I selected COM port and clicked Test, COM port was fine but interface was not found. 2 - Negative, can't connect to any module in the system. Won't even let me get through the COM port test. So, VW/Audi's on-board diagnosis system is sort of their version of 'no man's left behind'? Because ONE module, entire K-line network is disabled?? Dealer mentioned a term 'network failure', I guess that's what it means.. There must be an advantage of using such system, German engineers ain't stupid..Right? But from where I see...I don't see any advantage. It's just stupid............ Since there's no old fashion centralized interconnect panel thingy, I assume ECU is now centralized interconnect of every module. Oh and to clarify my knowledge, are there 7 main units related to K-line in B6 -Engine Control Module (ECU) -Transmission Control Module -Comfort Control Module -ABS Module -Airbag Module -Radio -Central Locking Module Correct me if I'm wrong! A simple check to see if the CAN bus is in use in a vehicle, and accessible via the OBD socket, is to connect a resistance meter across pin 6 and pin 14. Due to the combined resistance of the two termination resistors at 120 Ohms each the overall resistance should be read as 60 Ohms. Mine has (4.5M Ohm !) I think caused by the cluster "green connection plug " All the other modules above I checked it all works beside the ABS Light on which I cab delete only with proper K-Line.

Sorry, don’t know where to get the replacement displays for AR

350c is generally ok.

​@@HETPEZB Thanks, already done with the swap, used 420c and AMTECH flux, in 20 seconds the FPC was desoldered, soldered the new one and everything is OK now.

Yes, to get the pixels fixed new screen is a must.

I think the screen is different.

Separation line

Screen replacement won’t help. You need to fix an issue with the backlight.

@@HETPEZB Thanks for your response. Do you have any idea (no fuse dead on fuse box, led driver ????)

What’s the make/model/year of your car?

Pretty sure it’s a same problem and LCD needs a replacement.

@@HETPEZB Thank you!

I found it somewhere online. Search for A4 cluster pinout.

Yes it is. It’s a divider between red and yellow zones. You can see the actual divider on the video as a white line after the LCD display is removed (around 7-8 minutes mark on the video)

Requires basic soldering skills.

Are you 100% positive that you connected all the plugs ok?

I guess it is 370

To be honest I don't know and don't really care much, since the pixel repair service is the only one that being provided for those clusters. If the cluster has any other issues - they aren't covered by the repair.

Modern VW/Audi won't show oil pressure warnings below 2000 rpm

The service goes for $150

@@HETPEZB What about 01 Audi TT Coupe?..

We charge $160 for TT and $150 for A4, A6, Allroad.

It’s a flux

Regarding the flashing light- turn on the ignition and leave it on for a good half an hour. It may re-synchronize the immobilizer. Regarding the display - impossible to say without inspection- either LCD is not good (happens really rarely even to Chinese crap LCDs), problems with contacts (e.g. damage the trace from old LCD removal job or some problems with a soldering.

There should be a link for our service in the description below the video.

@@HETPEZB thanks I saw air after and I will be contacting you soon

You scrap the display and desolder the ripped contacts off to clean the contact pad for the new display.

@@HETPEZB what's the best way to get the ripped contacts off with? Tweezers?

Soldering iron.

You know, I don't have a problem with a dislikes, but I really would like to hear from those - what exactly the dislikes are for - just because or they did see something really wrong?:)

7 shops that charge hundreds. Mad your educating people. Trust me 7, money is better off left in my bank.

@@HETPEZB they are losers and trolls basically. they go around disliking because...they can. there's no reason or logic behind it

I'm going to go with: the most important part of this video is attaching the screen to the board, and the technique used to do so. In this video, that entire segment is out of focus, which makes the video relatively useless to me, and likely the people that gave it a thumbs down as well.

@@ajhill2230 That and he tests the screen and it has a big dark line right across it below the word "Press" at 12:36. The solder didn't take, and he calls it good anyway. Otherwise the technique is OK, so you can still learn from it.

What model do you have?

@@HETPEZB S3 8L -99

Sorry, have no information about 3 series Audi.

We only do use 12v power supply to test it. Since we do not working on anything else besides the pixelation issue - it's enough for us just to power up the cluster.

@@HETPEZB Got an original cluster connector, but what cables should I use to get life on the display or what color of the wires should I use? Thanks for reply. :-)

Lars Egil Barka I won’t remember from the top of my head, but google for Audi cluster pinout. You’ll find it easily.

@@HETPEZB thanks.. :-)

@@HETPEZB Hi, I looked and I didnt find it, well I found much, but not what Im looking for, Do you have a link or something? :-)