In this Vital Tech Tip segment, we cover 15 tips that will cost little to none that will help increase the performance of your motorcycle. Click play and check it out!
Well, I’m in peak physical condition and I’m not even in shape.. think about it. Tip #3 seat time is kinda the expensive one no? Fuel, track, maintenance.
hehe... we had decalworks custom design flame graphics for all our bikes. they were featured on their main website for a while. i think you can still buy a old version of the design for neck braces.
This was awesome guys. If you're going to do anything well, you have to first educate yourself. The correlation to HP was great and very helpful. Great to see your knowledge come through, thanks Scott.
Hey man, the Coors Classic on the wall is awesome! I'm comin to moto from a long MTB life and I appreciate the straightforward talk and practical advice. I've done lots on the bike, and the best advice I can give is pump up your tires and lube your chain. Kind of universal in its simplicity and this vid followed that theme. Thanks again.
Cable lubrication. Great tips regarding chassis getting bound up and throttle tube but making sure the cables are l lined is critical. Clean pivot points, sliding and rotating components is critical to prevent that “my bikes lost that loving feelin’” after 50-100 hours that so many guys complain about but don’t maintain these systems/components. You go through and clean the bike up, do the maintenance and voila h feels all freshened up!
True story... i bought a dirtbike from a guy REAL CHEAP because he said its not running right. I got home 1st thing i looked at was the air filter. It had honestly about a 1/4 inch of dust on it... i cleaned it and she has been running like a champ every since
That rear sprocket tip is just great! I have a 250 YZ and it can feel a bit too snappy for me and the front end some times feel a bit too light or twitchy. Maybe it'll help taming the bike a bit while bringing a little more stability to the front end.
thanks for posting. Didn't know about lubing the fork seal with a feeler gauge . My friends don't believe me about a clean lubed chain. Oh and the hp gain from non-o ring chain, nice. Don't like o ring chains, now I have a justification for not using them. A chain lube tip: run Bel Ray gear saver in your crank. Save it when you change oil and soak your chain in it until you ride next. Better than any spray lube. *** Found that Honda Pro is best spray lube but haven't tried Motorex.
Here are some torque wrench tips: 1 - never break torque with a torque wrench, only use it to apply torque 2 - don't use it to run fasteners down, use a ratchet, t-handle, or speed handle 3 - only use the ratchet head for repositioning the wrench if you don't hit your setting on the first swing 4 - set it to its lowest value when done, never set it below its range or leave it at the setting you applied 5 - always store it in its case or a shadowed drawer to keep it from getting bounced around
Instead of giving 1/8” that can cause throttle tube to break on a fall push throttle tube in till it touches lightly then push housing out to tube and tighten there. There is probably 1/16” play in housing to tube and now it doesn’t bind and on a fall it will contract bar and not crack. Also your right arm isn’t 1/8”+ off center compared to your left now. 👍🏻
Are you guys kidding? I didn't know Martha Stewart was related to James Stewart! And you hired her for this video! Somebody is bucking for a raise. Never spend money on levers after Memorial Day!
Nice tips! My brake fluid is relatively new but still got darkish in the rear master cylinder, while front does look much cleaner. Might it be because of the high temperature zone where back cylinder is located (right behind the engine)? Should I change the fluid in that case?
@@DStabs720 Eh I get what you're saying, but I'm still 40 hours past that and its running great. I could probably check the gap soon or something or just the overall condition, but performance wise there is no problem.
One thing no one has ever talked about or done and I now do it with my bikes and the feel of the bike is incredible. The left side of the bike is heavier due to chain, sprockets, chain guards, clutch bleeder line, front brakes assembly. To properly balance your bike you figure closely what each of these weight and it won’t be much and you add wheel weights to the opposite side of the frame or close to the same wires where the parts are located for example the front brake caliper is on the left side so add weight to the same spot on the right side. It will do so much more for a bike than anything I’ve ever tried in my 35 years of riding
Pretty sure you cut the lengthening the wheel base backwards the longer wheelbase provides more stability the shorter wheelbase makes it turn quicker but can cause head shake issues but I haven’t had an issue with this yet in 15yrs or so which could mean it’s no longer an issue on modern bikes but it m not sure to be honest.
What tool do I need to change my stator cover on a 250 sxf 2012 ktm? Not the stator itself just the cover? Guy I bought it from used JB weld and it's leaking oil out of the cracks
I wash my bike by hand use only car wash and cold water then I sham it dry then blow dry it to get all the water I can’t reach them I lube my chain, all pivot points, cables on both ends I use the little straw to shoot oil up into both sides of clutch and I live my breaks at the pivot point then I use Greot’s garage best of show wax and wax all the metal and I use some detail spray to get to any parts I can’t reach with my hand makes the whole thing look brand new! Then I check, oil, air pressures, air filter, etc! But mine is a street bike 2016 Suzuki GSX-S1000L6 she’s a beast!
I think if you’re going to loosen and retorque the engine mounts and swingarm pivot, you should lower the bike and let it’s weight rest in the wheels first.
Im happy with my modification duck bike be a Enduro bike, engine 120cc 2 stroke, already 2 years no Enduro since broke engine, hofe someday cant buy new engine, GBU sir shaloom from west Borneo Indonesia
Replace brake fluid after every race? What's the justification? Do you think that the heat from a single race has caused a breakdown of the fluid? This isn't oil hydrocarbon chains we're talking about. Brake Fluid stops working well when it absorbs moisture, primarily. If it's sealed, it should be ok, but I'd like to know if there's a physics reason it breaks down sooner.
KTM Factory Mattighofen Austria!500€ Don t know If they are Sold Out yet???Because of Corona Lockdown...try IT...or choose THe New X Trig Triple Clamps have a even better forkcalmp Design...
under heavy traction wich only occurs on well prepared motocross tracks if you are on a lower rpm range yo can feel the difference in acceleration even on a 250F
A little, yes. Raising clamps/lowering forks will slow steering and floppy at slow speed, but increase stability at speed and better cornering. Slow tech usually want lower front and quicker steering, faster high speed and desert you want stability! Front higher ads a bit of weight to the back and can change sag a tad and change damping a tad. Old suspension tuner once had me raise the front instead of softening the rear suspension and stiffening the front and it worked because it transferred the weight and the bike handled better because of it.
It's changing the wheel base. Longer wheel base is more stable at high speed but you lose cornering feel. Shorter wheel base the bike will turn easier but can feel Shakey at speed
@@Relinquish8t if i had the money i would buy a smart carb and be done with it. if your gonna spend that much money on a carb might as well skip the lectron and go all out. otherwise the stic is awesome and works magic!
Premix Utah the seals he’s lubricating is not the seal for the air. Also opening that seal does not hurt the forks, helps flush dirt out of the oil seal.
It's mind-boggling how much maintenance would be required to do everything by the book, plus all the other suggestions like these... The manual's checklist for every 10 hours is dozens of items. And don't forget to have your shock rebuilt every 40 hours and rebuild the entire bottom end and transmission every 100 hours.
Instead of running something up into the fork seal. Cut an old air filter in a small strip the same diameter as the fork leg and dip it in some fork fluid. Slide down the dust seal and put the strip in between the dust seal and the fork seal. Put the dust seal back pinching that air filter strip and now it will constantly lube the fork leg
@@FirstGendodgegarage only works if you remove it after every ride to clean it out. otherwise it will end up filled with dust and sand and will f your fork in no time
@@FirstGendodgegarage have you ever tried it? Didn't think so. And no it doesn't get clogged with dust and mud. The wipers take care of that as long as they are in good shape.
As many Chinese anodized parts as you can buy! Most are cheaper than muffler packing! You don’t need muffler packing anyway, bike sounds better without it. If it’s louder, it’s probably faster. Race cars run open pipes. Mufflers are a conspiracy. Loud pipes save lives! Chinese anodized parts are scientifically proven to have lower drag when going fast. That’s why they ship so fast! The bigger and more over-engineered Chinese folding brake lever you can put on your bike, the better! You’ll be able to hold the gas on longer coming into the corners. The small stock lever is no strong CNC super best, that’s for sure. OEM parts suck. You shouldn’t even waste your time cleaning them or even your bike when you have AliExpress or the Tusk accessories pages bookmarked. Chinese air filters flow more air. Minimal foam, minimal drag. It’s not rocket surgery. Gluing seems only hinders flow further. Always invest in good set of ultra shiny designer Chinese brake and clutch levers. Not only do they look super champion #1 best speed, their universal fit will be a guaranteed a winner when your buddy crashes and brakes a lever and it works as a non-working but fashionable lever to get you home. He be like Flavor Flav of the trail. Last but far from least... your bike will bling so hard that your competition may be blinded or at least intimidated by the look of your bike before the race even starts!
just because something is called "brake cleaner" doesn't mean use it to clean your brake rotors. INCORRECT SIR! use soap and water. Brake cleaner will cause squeaks.
Dot 3, 4, and 5.1 are glycol based and interchangeable. Difference is Dot 3 has lowest boiling point, Dot 5.1 is highest boiling point. Dot 5 is silicone based and does not absorb water. Color is usually purple. If you use Dot 5 in a glycol based system, the brake system's fluid may congeal and the seals may be damaged.
The guy isn’t crazy. This stuff is for pro factory riders with pro factory mechanic’s trying to get every possible hp. Out of there bike. Don’t forget to wax your helmet too , possibly 1/2 a hp. Lol.
