169 - How to Flatten Boards Wider Than Your Jointer

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There is nothing worse then when you have an absolutely beautiful board that is nice and wide and you realize it won't fit on your jointer. So you have no choice but to rip it in half, joint each piece separately, and then glue the pieces back together. Wouldn't it be so much nicer if we could just keep everything whole and preserve the wood's natural beauty without a grain-interrupting glue line? Well, it's your lucky day because I'm going to show you two techniques that will help you keep your wide boards intact. Both methods utilize the planer for final flattening, but one method starts with a hand plane and the other starts with the jointer.
The Hand Plane Trick
It should be said that the traditional way to handle a wide board would be to simply mill it 4-square with your hand planes. But this method is intended as a quicker, more beginner-friendly, hybrid alternative. It begins with planing one side of the board flat. By laying the board face down on a known flat surface (workbench, assembly table, tablesaw...), you can simply rock the piece back and forth to determine if any twist, cup, or bow exists. Mark the high spots with a pencil and begin planing them down. Keep testing your progress by flipping the piece over and checking for rocking. Eventually, you should end up with a reasonably flat and stable board. Once you are confident the one side is flat, you can simply send the board through the planer with the flat side down and then mill the edges using your preferred method.
Here's a quick tip. The initial flat surface doesn't need to be perfectly flat. If the board is slightly concave and it isn't too long, it can still register perfectly during a pass through the planer. So for the sake of expedience, don't shoot for dead flat. Shoot for even registration around the perimeter and if the center area is hollowed out ever so slightly, that's ok.
The Jointer Trick
So your jointer is only 6" side and your fancy board is 9" wide. No problem. But before I go into detail here, note that this technique does require the removal of the jointer's safety guard. Exercise the highest level of caution during this process and place the guard back on the jointer immediately after! Don't make me come over there!
Once the guard is removed, you should have the ability to run an extra wide boards over the tables. Take one or two passes and flip the board over to see what you're up against. If the board is badly twisted, it may take a few more passes. What you're looking for is a little ridge. Only 6" worth of the board's width is making contact with the blades. So the overhanging area should appear as a raised portion of stock running the length of the board.
Now here's the "trick", and you have two options. First, you can simply double-stick tape a piece of flat sheetgood stock to the flat milled portion of your board. The sheetgood sled can be anything from plywood to MDF to particle board and should be at least the width of the flattened section and the length of the board. Once securely attached, you can flip the sandwich over and run it through the planer. The uneven raised portion of the board will now be raised above the planer table surface and won't have any impact. The flat section of the board is now registering against the sled and since the sled is flat as well, we are able to achieve perfect flat registration as we pass the assembly through the planer. One the new face of the board is clean and flat, we can disassemble the sandwich and run the board through the planer one last time to remove the raised uneven portion.
The second option after the initial flattening is to remove the uneven raised portion using a hand plane. A few passes with a hand plane is all it takes to flush up the rest of the surface. Once flat, you can simple pass the piece through the planer with the clean and flat face down.
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Опубликовано:

10 апр 2012

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Комментарии : 87

@MrHarleythedevil 12 лет назад

Nicely said Mark. There is no need for rudeness, no matter what someone thinks about things. The world would be a much nicer place if people would just use some manners in their dealings with other people.

@ask1965 12 лет назад

Marc thanks for giving us access to this excellent Resource !

@izzysantiago978 8 лет назад

Nice wood blank for a solid guitar body! Excellent tutorial!

@Xanre83 12 лет назад

Great video as always, thanks for the great information!

@SeanMohundro 10 лет назад

I like that you have ads relevant to the show, unlike selling ad time through youtube.

@ZaarShed 5 лет назад

That's really brilliant (with the riding sheet)!

@frabciscobarajas6920 8 лет назад

dificil ver un joven con taller y lo mas importante con conocimiento, eres de los que alegran a los padres

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

sounds like a good plan to me!

@alanross3435 7 лет назад

Thanks for the freebie!

@woodwhisperer 10 лет назад

We have a series of videos showing how to build the workbench, but it's part of our Wood Whisperer Guild premium site.

@localcrew 12 лет назад

I sell hardwoods every once in a while to a serious woodworker. He has shown me pics (on his i-phone) of some of his work. It's stunning. He has a 20" Oliver jointer. He is my hero, naturally.

@seanmcaleavy2369 7 лет назад

Great tips! I have one question, Why the diagonal hand plane technique? Does going diagonal to the grain make a smoother or more efficient cut? I have never seen that before and am very curious. Thanks

@GamingDrummer89 12 лет назад

I saw a picture of a 36" jointer online (plus I remember David Marks said he knew a guy with one when you toured his shop), so I'm sure THAT would be the "ideal" one for larger shops. But yeah, that's why my ultimate plans, at least for now, are to get a 12" someday. As you basically said that'll handle nearly anything besides giant slabs. And I'm also planning on getting it with a carbide insert cutterhead. Those things last FOREVER.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Couple things. First, a planer will only follow the flatness of the existing surface. So if there is a twist, the planer will not remove it. You need a flat reference surface to start with. Second thing is that jointers are not just used for edges. They are used to flatten both faces and edges prior to sending through the planer.

@GamingDrummer89 12 лет назад

Hey Marc, I might have asked this before, but I can't remember exactly. My question is this: Would you ever upgrade to a 10", 12", or 16" jointer? When I get my own house someday (hopefully with a decent sized detached garage that I'll turn into my shop), I'm thinking about getting a 12" one. Just wondering what you thought of these wider jointers.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Coming soon. :)

@krtwood 12 лет назад

You can also just make a sled for your planer out of 3/4" ply with a cleat at the front. Just shim your stock so it doesn't rock for warped pieces, and in the middle for bowed pieces with the concave side down. I use hot glue so the shims don't move. It doesn't have to be perfect. Note that the end with the cleat goes first into the planer This way you don't even need a jointer at all and is easier than hand planes.

@GamingDrummer89 12 лет назад

Yeah, I know what you mean about shop size. Right now, my shop is in the 3rd bay of the garage of my parents' house, which isn't much room. Trying to fit a 12" in there with all my other tools and our second fridge would be like trying to park more than 3 cars in the garage! But I have used boards that were at least somewhat wider than 8" on several occasions. I especially like building things like tables, chests, and other things that involve panels, which I prefer to make with wider boards.

@patmog 11 лет назад

In Danish a jointer is called an 'afretter(høvl)' which essentially means 'square up (plane)', which makes sense, since you use it to create two sides which are square relative to each other :)

@Daljit-NY 12 лет назад

As usual great informative vid Marc...but did u not cover this topic in other video when u made a computer desk/table for your home?....

@jeffdeluca1153 7 лет назад

I just used this procedure to flatten a twisted piece of 6/4 cherry.. It flattened the board nearly perfectly flat BUT... it was very difficult controlling the "rocking" as I proceeded ending up with one corner 1" thick and the other a good 1 3/8" +or- Any ideas? Using a sled with the stock shimmed seems it would give a better margin of control of where the material is removed from.

@alexlivshin 11 лет назад

Is there any value to using a hand-held power planer when performing operations like these?

@michael61png 10 лет назад

Hi , I like your woodworking bench top. do you have some info on that, or some directions?

@scarmenl 11 лет назад

This is why I'm building an 18inch joiner to match my 18 inch woodmaster planer. The cutter head comes out of the woodmaster with little problem so I'm going to design the joiner around that cutter head.

@BeeRich33 10 лет назад

Hey Whisperer, I have an idear. I have them from time to time. Is there some kind of surface that you could move this slab over, to demonstrate where the low bits are? It would mark the low bits so you could focus the hand planer on those areas.

@zachand1757 4 года назад

I am struggling to take a cup out of a 3/4" thick 12" wide glue up using the jointer/paner combo. I can achieve the 8" flat surface but then going through the planer the rollers mash the high cupped end this planing the whole surface and leaving the cup. I have also tried flipped the piece but then ended up having the cup in the opposite direction.

@woodwhisperer 10 лет назад

That could work. Maybe coat a piece of plywood with the charcoal, set that plywood on a nice flat surface and then rub the board on top of that. Kind of like when the dentist fits a crown. :)

@edvardbrown1041 7 лет назад

"coat a piece of plywood with the charcoal" what does that even mean?????????

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Because it's a machine that preps the boards for joining. I think Europe and Australia have terminology that is a little more clear though. They call it a planer. And what we call a planer, they call a thicknesser.

@woodmasterguy 12 лет назад

Jointer size all comes down to what you build. Myself I had a 12" and I actualy sold it off and now have a 8". Size of your shop is a major concern and to tell you the truth, I never have anything larger than 7"-7 1/2" wide boards to face joint. The 12" was close to 900 lbs and tough to move on a modified base, but the 8" is a piece of pie to move around, plus having a full 76 1/2" bed length is great...

@BeeRich33 10 лет назад

Reviewing what I put, I left out an important part. Have some kind of charcoal or dark wax that could basically replicate the scribble marks that you put on for height labelling. So a sheet with charcoal on it that you drag the workpiece over. The dark bits are the high bits.

@CycoBillywoodworking 4 года назад

Did you have to buy those tools or did the sponsors give it to you just courious

@JerInCrik 7 лет назад

Excellent!!!

@rudoatlas 12 лет назад

Hi. In this case You may use a router with flush trimming router bit. I do it so and it works fine. I use my veeeery expensive hand plane only if I want to feel the Beauty of my work sometimes... :-)

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

If you're pretty good with one I suppose it wouldn't be a bad way to hog away material. But I haven't had enough time with one to use it for something like this.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Oh I'd love to have a larger jointer. Ideally, It would be nice to have one that matches the size of my planer. But for most boards we work with, a 12" jointer would cover about 99%. And 8" jointer covers about 95%. Of course I'm pulling these numbers out of my butt, but you see what I'm getting at. :)

@Peter.D61 12 лет назад

And if you did not have a jointer or hand planes,there is a way to flatten a wide board? You can set up a router on a jig to plane the board. That might be a nice method to illustrate, Mark.

@Cozzmos 12 лет назад

There's a 16" "Lobo" brand jointer on ebay right now for $1945 OBO brand new. Never heard of the brand but it looks to be pretty heavy duty.

@jeffstanley4593 9 лет назад

I don't understand why your planer did not bite into the board before it got to the "high" part that your jointer missed. I do not understand how a planer works. It seems to me that it must bite into the wood wherever it is placed.

@toysoldier46552 5 лет назад

Typically you take shallow passes through a planer, so you will actually plane a face several times before you get them to take a full clean pass.

@francispham8852 10 лет назад

Nice video, alternatively you can just run it through the jointer like you did and put a slightly narrower plywood under it to make it flat. Hot glue both ends and then run it through the planer to flatten the top and then flip it around and plane the other side.

@toddoliver3385 6 лет назад

Francis Pham That's exactly what he did.

@stevenmendez9259 8 лет назад

I have a vanity that sat outside for a long time. the desk top got warped and It is wider than my planer. how can I use my electric hand planer and not leave ridges/grooves/ and leave it perfectly smooth ? or is that possible ?

@JgHaverty 8 лет назад

+Steven Mendez electric planers rarely do a good job, they are more for construction type tasks. You are FAR better off with a half decent hand plane.

@dweimer4118 6 лет назад

If the top can be removed, you can also try a jig like this one with a router: ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-J_l9kZdQu9E.html Seems like hand planes would be more efficient, but if they're not an option...

@rocknrollrebel84 12 лет назад

marc build a router plane thats what i do works a treat, use a large diameter router bit

@woodwhisperer 11 лет назад

Honestly can't remember. Was a while ago.

@saywhaat8933 6 лет назад

"I'm a little bit high in the corner"...I hate when that happens

@jamesmhall 5 лет назад

Typical Friday night really.

@BeeRich33 10 лет назад

Yes, exactly. I always find it hard to get the plywood out of my mouth though.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Because you should have one side nice and flat before running it through the planer.

@guitarsandsuchetc 11 лет назад

how much did that slab cost?

@patricktryon6390 7 лет назад

What would happen if you just spun the piece and ran in through the jointer ?

@nobytes2 7 лет назад

It wouldn't work because the jointer would shave off what's left and leave another strip on the other side of the board.

@andrewmcpheely5241 7 лет назад

If you did that, you would need the piece to be riding just on the little ledge created from the original jointing, meaning 8" of the wood would just be floating. If you let the newly jointed face sit on the jointer, the whole board would be slanted and you would be jointing that face into the wood. With the blade guard off and having to support the board from the bottom (right next to the blades!) so it doesn't droop, would be very dangerous.

@edvardbrown1041 7 лет назад

If you were going to spin it, why would you joint 6" then 2", wouldn't it make more sense to do 4" then the other 4", so it could support itself? Am I missing something here?

@Blinkation 6 лет назад

edvard brown I was thinking the same thing. just do half then another half. you can use a board as a fence to make it straight.

@josephhfry 5 лет назад

If you understood how a jointer worked, you would understand why this won't work. Essentially, you would end up with two flat surfaces at slightly different angles, especially if there was any twist in your board. This is because the board rides on its high spots, and the highspots for one side will be different than the highspots for the other side. This is why people who buy larger jointers usually do so as much for the bed length as for the width as jointing works best when the entire piece is on the bed of the jointer.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

Not sure what video you're watching Joe but you should probably get your facts straight. I use eye protection religiously when I work with power tools. Now you may not actually see me going through the act of putting on safety glasses between scenes but that certainly doesn't mean it didn't happen. I challenge you to find a portion of any of my videos where you can actually see me using a power tool without protection. So check your facts before you go casting insults and accusations like this.

@ShawnHaggard 6 лет назад

Not sure exactly what Joe said, but at 11 seconds into your video, there is a still picture of you using a table saw w/o eye protection. I'm guessing the picture was staged and the saw was off (since I can see the teeth), but one such as I could be pedantic enough to point that out.

@thedudewhoiskickass 12 лет назад

hey, why cant you just run it trough the planer at the begining?

@RyanMonty 6 лет назад

Because a planer doesn't joint. If one side is even, it's just going to make the other side match it...so both sides are twisted.

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

not familiar with Lobo the tool company. Now Lobo the DC comic character, that's a different story.:)

@Wtfever.................. 7 лет назад

could you have just sent it through the planer to straighten it out?

@woodwhisperer 7 лет назад

No. The planer's ability to flatten a surface is only as good as the surface that's riding on the bed. It's goal is to make the upper surface parallel to the lower surface. So if there's a twist in the board, the planer will just duplicate that twist on the top side. So you have to start with a flat surface facing down, which is the whole premise for the techniques in this video.

@whirled_peas 6 лет назад

Here in the EU market for jointers (we call them planers) you don't seem to get any machines that DONT have a flush edge along the outfeed table, which makes this technique literally impossible. Fucking frustrating. Any way around this do you think?

@TheJerryWatson 6 лет назад

" Clock" No battery in it or did it take 12 hours exactly to do video? LOL! Just a bit of humor yo!

@woodwhisperer 12 лет назад

nope. That was skip-planing.

@wakaphwap 12 лет назад

why is it called a jointer it joins nothing

@toddoliver3385 6 лет назад

wakaphwap It prepares a perfectly flat smooth surface, ready for joining pieces.

@jeffdeluca1153 7 лет назад

On a planer that is...

@woodwhisperer 10 лет назад

Any flat surface should do just that. A tablesaw surface is a good example. Anything sitting above the surface would be a "low point." Not sure if that's what you mean, but that usually works for me.

@Monuments_to_Good_Intentions 5 лет назад

My hands planes are junk. They are making boards uneven

@louiscypher7090 8 лет назад

that's the quietest planer I've ever heard.

@tylerpeck7535 8 лет назад

+Louis Cypher helical cutter heads greatly reduce noise compared to conventional planer blades

@krrrruptidsoless 2 года назад

A known flat surface. I've been in search of finding and making such a device. After going through multiple squares and rulers that are anything but square or straight. I have ended up with a taught chalk string. Which shows straight but will not show warped. I've bought metal and particle board which temperature warps both over time. Sorry just gotta laugh at straightness. It evades me like an alcoholic or drug addict evades the police. Straight, level and square. Do these words actually exist in reality I keep wondering. Or is everyone on earth playing tricks on me and just making squares and straightedges that are warped to their out of wackness, to fool everyone else. "Liars"