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Well done. Perhaps you could show people how to vent a portable wood stove out almost any window (that opens), so that in a real emergency when there is no more petrol fuel, they could survive inside their house using wood. Love your channel.
for that price you can get a small cast iron bread box wood stove for a more permanent solution. fuel it the same way and the cast iron will hold the heat much longer. actually used one with a pan of ethanol soaked lava rocks as a burner and could cook on it
Wow, I just bought a tent stove for my sailboat, living in Canada we are fixated on burning wood. The double can burner and methanol is so much superior and safer. Many thanks, I’m a new big fan of what you do!
I was reminded of the cast iron "Queenie Stove" that was a favourite stove for gypsy caravans and narrow boats. When I looked up the history recently, I found out that they were copies of an 1853 American parlour stove. The Americans considered them obsolete a long time ago, and replaced by later designs. However, in Europe they remained popular and are still going for very good money.
I’ve actually already got a titanium tent stove so this is going to be a fantastic emergency heater for me, 20 litres of methanol for £36 on Amazon and some carbon felt and I’m good to go! Thank you! 👍🏻
I made the 1702 heater with a 300ml fuel capacity, of 100% methanol, this lasted 40 -45 minutes. It took 10 mins to cool down, before it could be refiled. In one use in a room measuring 12 foot x 14 foot. It warmed the room up no problems, but the carbon dioxide meter in the room reached 88ppm. That is very high. I would not use one of these heaters without good ventilation, which kind of defeats the purpose. You can work out how long 20ltrs would last you.
@@pacman4568 Dioxide? Did you mean monoxide? Carbon dioxide isn’t harmful for humans until it gets to around 1000ppm, no need for any ventilation above normal. 250-400ppm is normal for outside spaces, 400-1000ppm is normal indoors with good ventilation.
When you put your hand over the stack it made me think of those thick ceramic flower pots which you could put over that spot for thermal mass. Even better would be to put some sand filled pots on top of the stove and one on a steel plate over the stack, maybe as thermal batteries like you've talked about in other videos. Love your channel!
@@GyomeiHimejima89 A heat (or thermal) battery is also called thermal mass. It's basically a material that absorbs heat so that later, when the heat source is removed, this mass releases it's stored heat as it tries to equalize with the ambient environment. This results in keeping the area (a room for example) warmer for a longer period of time. I know the term "battery" has electrical connotations but, like an electrical battery, it is another form of energy storage. One of my favorite examples is a "Rocket Mass Heater" where you encapsulate the exhaust apparatus of a rocket stove (similar to the ones talked about on this channel) with cobb (adobe) or other thermal absorbing material essentially making it a heated piece of furniture in your room. If you lookup rocket mass heater either hear in RU-vid or an image search there are some great diagrams and explanations. Sorry to be long winded, I just love this subject!
@The_Brink thanks for that reply. I'm in love with the subject too although fairly new. I have been looking at different ways to try and heat the room I'm in cheaper in my home due to the current rise of prices of gas etc.
@@GyomeiHimejima89 We are all in that boat these days, huh? Everyone I know has far more interest in this subject than ever before. My hope is that everyone gets through this situation safely and comes out more self-sufficient and on the other side.
Hey Rob, Do us a favor, weigh one of your can burners empty, add fuel, reweigh it then stick it into your Vevo stove, & time how long it takes to burn empty. Depending on the fuel used, we can easily calculate the heat output of the stove and compare it to typical space heaters, furnaces, etc. For example, we know that ethanol has a Low Heat Value of 26,7 MJ per Kg (11479 BTUs per lb). And like you say, want to double your stove's output, double the number of burners.
Lol everytime you review something I'm already pondering to buy! I've purchased there 8kw diesel heater and works amazing to heat my 12'x24' shop for $5cad to heat for 24 hours on lowest setting* And now I want to buy tent stove and build a sauna/steam hut made of pallets and I was looking at this model but it's nice when you can see it in real life 😉
@@SilvaDreams Agreed. Though, I think warnings like these are more for Karen's that will sue for damages when they inevitably do something stupid with a product. Or for parents with a "free range" view on child rearing.
I’ll be getting a load of methanol for mine to do this but I’ll still be getting a couple of elbows for the chimney to burn wood and get the smoke out the window if it comes to it. This is a great idea as long as the methanol lasts though and at £36 for 20 litres on Amazon it’s a bargain for those of us who already have tent stoves!
@My Dixie Wrecked🔨 I know, however I live in a council house. But my intention is possibly to uncover where the old coal fire was in the Living Room and put the Frontier Stove Chimney up the house Chimney and support the front body of the Frontier Stove with some bricks on a fire blanket, as the normal legs can't be folded down, it would be too high. The house started off with a coal fire, then changed to a gas fire, now the council have installed a stupid blower type electric fire, but the original hole for the coal fire is still there, just covered over with an aluminium plate, behind the fire surround. The Chimney was checked every year until the electric was put in 18 months ago, so it should be OK, as it also has a cover to prevent birds, etc going down it.
I bought a clay chiminea and burn your can heater indoors in it at night, just for ambiance (I'm in Florida). But just one. It would be too hot otherwise. I really like your Vevor stove. It would be great to see you make a stirling fan with your cans to sit on top of it and push the heat around. You are 2/3rds of the way there with the set up you already made. I enjoy this so much.
To improve the heating, cut the sides out and insert a 4-inch pipe round or square, it doesn't matter, through the stove over the flame. Both ends of the pipe remain open, with one side 1 inch higher. The hot air in the pipe, will rise and cause hot air to flow directly into the room, use some form of heat-resistant putty to seal the pipe holes in the side of the stove if used in doors, and vent the smoke and nasty gasses outside then there are no nasty carbon fumes coming into the room from the burners. A much cheaper and longer lasting fuel would be wood.
When you build a chimney you want the next one to go inside the lower one otherwise the moisture will run down the inside and run out the joint and make a right mess.
@@twestgard2 That will only be an issue if you are burning soft woods or your wood isn't seasoned and thus not properly burning because of too much moisture in it.
@@SilvaDreams All wood contains moisture, and moreover the process of burning releases oils that condense as soon as the gases leave the wood. There’s no scenario where you want to build a chimney that dumps the creosote outside the wood stove.
@@SilvaDreams ‘perfect’ firewood isn’t always available, especially in damp countries. You get through your seasoned supply faster than normal -due to something unexpected? People burn what’s available.
@@xXxCatsnakexXx You got that right. I am semi-retired in the Republic of the Philippine Islands. We can dry wood we "scavenge" for the BBQ on our walks out in the tropical sun. The processed wood is undercover with the ends exposed to the sun. Move the wood inside our carport and it will actually pick up moisture. We have boxes of small wood pieces for a gasifier stove used for camping that we are thinking to put back outside on a tarp when the sun is shining to re-dry it for better ignition and combustion.
I was thinking of venting one of those about the same way you do with a portable AC unit, but in Canada you'll need to make that an insulation panel in itself or lose all the R-value of that window and risk it freezing open. M/Ethanol is a great option.... except I think they used it all in hand sanitizer over here
I would consider it in a pinch, but I decided to cut a hole I my roof & install a chimney instead. Triple wall stack minimum within 3 feet of the ceiling, and also coming out the roof.
Love it! Thank you Robert! Vevor discontinued this stove but I have purchased another from them - its design is quite a bit different - it stinks for wood frankly, the ash pan has warped! I will try this method tomorrow!
There's a Bucky Fuller vibe here that seeks First Principles. The concept of Burner and Enclosure is so basic that it it isn't constrained by convention. I love it. Thank you for your time and effort.
Excellent video as always! Thanks for sharing your projects! I was wondering, are you concerned about evaporated methanol igniting in the stove? I had a quarter soup can of waste oil flare up on me in a heavier wood stove with a window in the door. When the entire inside of the stove reached the flash point of the liquid, it went from a box with a flaming can in it to a box very full of fire. It was a very tense few moments while it burned off the small amount of fuel, but the window held! I'd hate to think what would have happened if that fuel got all the oxygen it was after! Maybe the vevor stove is too thin and has too much air flowing through it to reach that temperature, but my experience has made me more cautious with enclosed burning of liquid fuel. Keep up the great work!
Thanks for the video. For the money I've found the Diesel heaters (also sold by Vevor) to be most cost effective alternative heater if you have a source of Red Diesel, currently £1.35 per litre near me. Cheapest Methanol on Amazon I've found is £1.80/litre and it's not as energy dense as Diesel. Having said this, you have the advantage with this stove in that it doesn't need an exhaust or chimney to the outside.
Thanks Robert, My son and I just tried this with my tent stove. It worked very well for heating our wee workshop. I wouldn't risk using the methanol burners in the tent though, not easy to extinguish! I will need to get some carbon felt though. The sock we used started burning when the methanol ran out. lol 😆 Happy New Year to you all!
the carbon felt is absolutely the best wick for it and to put it out use another (slightly larger) can and a pair of cheap cooking tongs; hold the can upside down and put it over the flame and down over the wick. Goes out a treat.
So glad you test this so we learn and know where to pick up from. My emergency heater is a diesel parking heater needing 12 v from a Lipo battery pack and solar cell. This looks better. Need to add that sterling engine as a fan to improve convection (assuming outside air is cold enough to keep the draft strong) Will look at bringing in outside air via an outside vented chimney if the fuel is changed. Never know what fuel costs next month. Need to keep the dogs (and visiting kids/friends) away from the stove.
Oh nice! I have some ethanol I need to distill. Great idea for a heater. Have you ever seen the Japanese dude who makes ethanol burners out of old drinks cans? You're using a similar concept with these cans. I was thinking about making something to burn my "bad" homebrew (the heads and tails) to keep warmer and save money over winter. Thanks for the idea!
Yeah, in an emergency, you can take the racks out of your oven, place one of these cans in side it, leaving the door slightly Open, or possibly op to about 4 of the cans at once, but be sure they are at the bottom of the oven to keep the flames off the broiler element, the uneven heat may crack it or something, I try to keep a couple large bottles of 91% alcohol for emergency heat in the winter, I can usually get by with a 500 watt heater , keeping one room warm, so hopefully the half gallon of alcohol should last a little while, keep me from freezing anyway,, it only gets below the mid 20's a few days out of the winter!
Ha ha! Love it. Actually, we beat you to it with our Highlander tent stove. The fuel was an empty tuna tin, coiled corrugated cardboard and melted candle ends. It heated a 5m x 2m room for over an hour.
I have a tent stove for my condo (the condo is ALL electric) and have jury-rigged a method of using 3V computer fans and 6V bilge pump fans for suppling respectively fresh air at the stove door inlet and venturi low pressure vacuum to exhaust smoke fumes. The 3 and 6 volts come from backup Bluetti battery packs. I tested it in a friend’s barn and it works but it needs constant attention. Your alcohol small burners (which I have also purchased to cook with (when there is only a slight small period power outage) work very well…MY CONCERN is that when the small cans of (multi burner cans) are placed inside the stove and the stove heats up to high temperature would the liquid alcohol being stored for the wick action get so hot that it would then vapor out and cause a huge ignition… that could mean a fire and perhaps split the cans of fluid (from immense heat) and all the liquid would burn and run out all over the stove… Could you revisit the TENT STOVE USED WITH MULTIPLE ALCOHOL BURNERS over a long time and with making the stove body VERY HOT??!!
Extra virgin olive oil used in antic candells modified using gravitation form for flow fluid continuos to burner made from fiberglass that's exist in construction domain for isolation use .
You can make to burn days in this way if you make this candells to do this . Ventilation it's need for wood . Interests if someone try to use wood for inside without to create smoke . At this,i work in this days . I want to use two engines to make a vortex and a suplimentar fluid like it's use central at oil stove .
The preppers or ultralight backpackers here in the USA use a similar burner called a "cat can" which uses a cat food outer can, and a tomato paste can for the inner. 30 mL of alcohol will burn about 10-15 minutes. Methanol is about 500 BTU per US ounce. I would be interested in a way to build one of these stoves myself from common stuff.
I think it might be time to line a motor cycle crate with insulation and have an infrared heat in it for a mini 5 minute instant warm up room . You can do jump ups in it to get the blood flowing and you will be warm to the core very quickly ! And if your really space efficient you can simply make it fold on itself to flat pack! You can get these crates from motor cycle shops for free! Be an awesome project for Luke 👍🏻 actuallly using the thick cardboard that new fridges might be even better and come with inbuilt insulation ! 👍🏻
One other thing , and you may already do this . Before you put up items from Vevor , give a thumbs up to Patreons . These are already sold out and will , likely become dearer . Regards Malcolm .
This brand's diesel heaters prompted me to look through their ENTIRE Amazon store. I found a whole host of products they have branded and look forward to knowing it's a quality purchase.
Dr. Smith, please reshoot this video. Add a punctured tin of beans heating up and a coffee cup warming up too. Luke could be the one bring them into the room ready for lunch. Please sir, may I have some more? Beautiful stove.
Great idea, but i have a question! With the heat inside the stove, isn't the fuel going to heat up and instantaniously burst into flames? Just asking! Also what kind of fuel are you using? Thank you very much!
I'm wondering how much a tray of sand or gravel on top of the stove would help to prolong heating the room before needing to change burners or adding fuel to the burners.
Apart from extra safety, why would you put a methanol burner into that enclosure? It won’t increase heat output one jot. Also, by making the enclosed space hotter - don’t you risk boiling the methanol directly until it combusts on the inside of the can, not just the wick?
@@ThinkingandTinkering granted, but it didn’t take a £150 box to achieve it. I prefer your radiant design with the mesh mantle for the obvious reason that heating the entire room air is more costly than heating people by infrared. Thinking about it, a modest 4x4x2m room is 32 cubic metres, at roughly 1.25kg per cubic metre, 40kg of air to heat or 88lb in old money. About half an hour at 1kwhr output from 10 to 20 degrees. I think I’ve just talked myself into having a small radiant, plus a background convector!
Hi! I’m curious as to if the flammable liquid enclosed in the stove might reach flashpoint temperature!?!? If that could happen, could this be dangerous? I’ve no idea if this might happen or not.
You're asking whether the burning liquid reaching its flashpoint would be dangerous? I assume you and the 5 likes have had a year of thinking to work through this conundrum...
@@Anrirua it was a rhetorical question!!!!!! Of course any flammable liquid will reach flashpoint. Trying to get people thinking about this BEFORE they assemble one.
You're going to need to butt weld the first 2 sections of pipe together so that you get the bell facing upwards. You could also try using an exhaust band clamp if you're lucky enough to have pipe that's close to exhaust pipe size. Don't forget some high temp sealant like Rutland's Seal it Right since it stays flexible during heat cycles.
@@regwatson2017 It's a wood stove and he even mentions that you can burn other things in it but you'll have to vent it. FYI, ethanol and methanol can contain water (by absorption) that will condense inside the chimney and run out on the outside of the pipe because of gravity. That's why you should invert the belled coupler and use a sealant. There are hundreds of videos on RU-vid that show tent stoves and if you look closely you'll see the water stains that run down the chimney pipe. Do you even own a tent stove? I own several.
@@rocketsurgery8337 I'm buying one ,my first .Do you have any recommendations ? Which one should I buy ? I want to use it indoors ,thanks for the good advice .
@duhhhh1723 I actually bought 2. One for my tent and the other for a dining fly. They are both Guide Gear sold by Sportsmans Guide and also sold on Amazon. I bought the smaller size since it's for a 10x12 tent. The larger one would be more suitable for heating a home, although it's not certified for that use. I'm not saying it wouldn't work. It's just not certified. My stove uses 3-1/2 stove pipe and the larger stove uses 5-1/2". I was able to buy exhaust pipe butt connectors and (2) 3-1/2" exhaust pipe that are 40" long. Longer pipes so there's less joints. I bought a tube of Rutland flexible black latex sealant to keep smoke in and rain water out. Also a can of high temp black exhaust paint so the pipe doesn't rust. I haven't put it together yet, but as soon as the weather changes I will so I can get a good 3 hour burn time in to cure the paint. Let me know if you have any questions.
Might be able to use metal tongs to remove the spent cans before allowing them to cool down. I've played around with some smelting and the crucible tongs are what I'm thinking of. Might be able to use a crucible instead of a can for the exterior of the burner, so that the tongs would be more secure for moving a very hot object. Although I'm not sure about using a crucible with that fuel. I don't think it would be an issue with a graphite crucible, except the crucible probably won't last as long as a steel can. Would need a piece or two of firebrick to set spent cans until they've had a chance to cool. That would allow for continuous heating.
I use just one of Roberts can burners in mine and It boils a kettle of water literally in 5 minutes! More money saving on gas/electric etc. I'm getting about 1-1/2 hours burning from a half can of methanol. But I'm using old cotton curtains for wicks while I wait for the carbon fibre matting to arrive. It may be better with the cfm. But if you were to enable longer burning I reckon it would cook a stew or pie in an enclosed Dutch oven style pot.
The cost of methylated spirits is now more expensive to run than having the gas central heating on. I know because I made the concrete mold rocket heater
i buy methanol 20 litres a time and make a heater with a empty can of beans filled with floral foam and 300ml of methanol and two strands of carbon felt it burns for four hours. the house heating is used only 2 hours a day.
@@wolfenstein6676 i bought it on amazon 6 small pieces for £15 though next time i'm buying a fire blanket because it's the size of a towel better value for your money. the green floral foam can be bought from hobby craft four blocks for a fiver. my 4 hour burns work out to less than 70p a time.
We had -28.6 + wind-chill and I almost froze my fingertips off whilst changing a tyre. I did have gloves on but had to take them off for the fiddly bits.
been doing this since last year.....i got one with a secondary combustion but i need to modify a baffle so all my heat dont go straight up the pipe....should be easy with a few dollar tree pans and secondary air combustion would work better anyways reburning any off-gasses possibly a bit hotter and definitely less harmful things in air and putting one of my many stove fan on top.....i also have a small square of soapstone and some flat copper plate ill use on top fits perfectly but truthfully people been burning paraffin and oils and candles for years without getting cancer or growing third testicle.......not planning on using year round just during snow storms
You'll only do it once, like picking up a hot oven tray with a wet towel, or sticking your thumb in a ht cap while your mate kicks the engine over, yes you'll only do it once, surprisingly though I still forget to move my face when I open the oven door 😅
It would interesting to stick a dozen candles in that stove and see if like a plant pot heater, it transfers the heat effectively to act as a useful very cheap running heater that doesn't need to comply with eco design regs and you can buy longer laster tealight in bulk very cheap.
I did the same thing with my NEW UNUSED Nomad wood burner about 6 weeks ago, I used bio ethanol in a bio tray. I had to rush back to my man cave as the CO2 alarm went off. When I got back the log burner the front glass was black, Im hoping it was the oils or whatever that were put on the NEW burner at production that produced the CO2. I need to try it again after having tried to burn off any pre production oils/chemicals that may have been added to the wood stove
Hey just curious about the top of the inside can. In the first version you drill a small hole in the middle to add fuel. In the second version you forgo the hole and add fuel before assembly, and in this version you take the top off all together. Have you found much difference between the versions? Was about to build the heater you made with the cake pans
funnty because i was thinking of doing that the past week. was thinking of putting my fold up stove like simular to that one in the fire place and using the base of a couple of miners lamps inside and sticking one of those fans you get that need no power but run on the heat on top. 😎👍
That’s a slick stove! I’ve got the princess auto special but i think the small stove pipe and its location makes it a terrible stove. This one you reviewed has a bigger stack and pulls from the mid section at the back, looks to be quite superior.
When I clicked on this video, I thought you would show us how to exhaust a wood stove, inside a room without a chimney. How much do you pay for ethanol/methanol fuel? and how does this compare to other fuels such as diesel or firewood?
@@DavidMartin-ym2te Yes, the alcohols don't release near as much CO as a lot of other fuel sources. But they are expensive and aren't a serious, long term fix by any means. Best categorized as "for occasional, emergency type situations" imo. For a more long term solution that is cheaper, it makes sense to build an outdoor heater than can run off biomass materials. Have smoke vent outside, but have a system to capture the heat without the smoke and pipe it into the house via an insulated window insert. You want to insulate the stove as much as possible in this case, so that less heat is lost to surrounding ambient temps. For things like this, you want to get away from things like steel and move to higher temp/non oxidizing materials like clay/cob, waterglass treated basalt fiber cloth, etc. Steel can be used for structural purposes, but it shouldn't be the layer directly exposed to the fire. Putting at least a thin layer of say clay over the steel will help to prolong its life when the system is highly insulated and/or otherwise burns very hot (like a rocket stove, a well tuned gassifier, etc).
Sorry was thinking of a greenhouse paraffin burner inside the stove ,only the base .Thinking that paraffin would last alot longer .Any suggestions are always appreciated. Btw I use my stove in a large hot tent with ventilation.
Simple, yet effective adaptation. We expected nothing else from you, Mr. Robert. Do you think painting it black would noticeably improve radiation emissivity?
maybe add a handle to the top plate, a wire handle to lift the burners would be easy to attach, adding a T to the stove pipe will distribute the warm air lower, adding elbows can direct it to the ground, small fans in the outlets will replace the lost drawing power
Amazon being one of a few outlets is selling an ethanol indoor burner with a concrete styled surround for £40. A burner and mini thermal store in one 😆
a lot of talk on producing heat, but insulation is money better spent. A very well insulated room can be heated & Kept warm for pennies. While a drafty place will waft away the heat as quick as you make it. Spend as much money on insulation as you possibly can, and what you can spare on a stove, and you'll be warm enough.
Mr. Murray-Smith, I was thinking; why put the inside can with the bottom down? Now the fuel is exposed to the flame. To me that sounds dangerous. Did I get the wrong idea from the methanol heater you made with a piece of panel from a computer case and two cake tins? I thought that one showed the inner can with its bottom up.
