few pointers on the 302 high swirl head. also apply to the last production standard head the 714. although I plan to do a different video once I finish those
Looks pretty good. I am working on a set of magnum heads. I was shocked at the giant guide bosses. They were the first thing I worked on. They look like they were designed by a Ford spy trying to sabotage the competition!
I have a set of 302 I just cleaned up the stock casting. I also cleaned up casting flash in the shrouding around the valves, I see now I should angle them back thank you. suscribed to see future progress.
I’ve been working on some 302’s. Sleeved and looking to run 8mm magnum valves. 1.92/1.625 Even if it doesn’t need a 1.92 that will give me more curtain at any given lift.
It’s funny I was like totally clueless and home ported a set of heads for my 318. They were closed chamber 273 heads and I cut the chamber to unshroud the valves, cut down the valve guide, gasket matched to a 340 gasket and put 1.88/1.6 valves in it. So basically everything you recommended lol
Свечи надо тоже правильно ставить в 8-клапанном моторе. Стоят все по разному. Открытым пространством к впускному клапану - дает больше крутящего момента на низах. К выпускному - на верхах. Открытым пространством вниз - самое неудачное положение. Пламя распространяется где-то с угла и не успевает разгореться по максимуму в нужный момент. Поэтомум либо открытым пространством наверх или боковое расположение. Его можно регулировать толщиной шайбы, если у купленного комплекта свечей лучшее положение не удается найти у всех цилиндров.
Nice work! I'm reading forum posts saying early casting 318 blocks, or later casting truck blocks that are said to have thicker walls can be bored to 340 bore, 4.04" do you know if this is true? have you done it? I'd love to build a budget 340
I've heard this before but when actually looking into it I've never found anyone who has actually done it. Only real way to know would be to sonic test one. But I wouldn't bet my house on it
@@black_sheep_fab9411 Thanks, I read a bunch of comments of forums, some guys say they take the bore no problem, others say there's no way. One posted the machine shop that supposedly was building these things all the time, I messaged the shop and they said no 318 can be taken to a 4.04" bore. Thinking about it, I guess a custom crank with 360 mains and 3.31" stroke in a 360 block would be the way to go since the 360 can handle the .40" bore no problem. I'd love to build a cheap 340, but not so sure it can be done
I haven't messed with any of those. I would think they would be in the ball park of these though. I think 200 plus would be realistic without getting too crazy. But I can't say for sure.
390 cu I would depart from 318 heads and get a set of 360 heads and port those with the stock 1.88" intake or move up to 2.02 valves,,exhaust is already 1.60". If you ran across some 308 heads even better exhaust port. Your gonna want at least 250 cfm on the intake and smog 360 will do that easy
What percentage of your valves are your throats.. There's a reason why bigger valves didn't show improvement, if the throats are stock and you added bigger valves There's a restriction..
88 percent. I corrected the throat after installing the valves and had very little gain. The restriction was farther back around the short turn/bowl/guide so the valve didn't do much until I opened it up further upstream.
This is where the flow bench lies to you. Unshrouding that intake does nothing good for you. With that low flow gasket matching and widening the pinch point are counterproductive as well. Pitot tubes show you where material can come out.
@chrisstavro4698 please explain how deshrouding and increasing flow is counter productive? You belive a turbulent port that flows 30 cfm less would produce more horsepower than this?
@@black_sheep_fab9411 Getting rid of turbulence inside a port is a good thing. That wall that "hurts" low lift flow is there to increase swirl, which helps combustion, response, and fuel economy. That stuff doesn't show up on a dyno, but it's very obvious as soon as you start driving. If you can produce positive swirl at all lifts without it, go ahead and remove it. For the sake of argument, 20 cfm with the wall will make more power everywhere than 30 cfm without the wall.