1910s Electric Breast Drill [Restoration] 

Yeah I hate when they put putty on the metal castings to make them perfectly smooth.... they don't do that now for tools and they didn't do it back then either.

@@crocodile2006😅

It's constantly hot with electricity to stun the patient so they don't feel a thing. Very convenient!

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Perfect? Really? Can't watch what he's doing, too busy reading all the subtitles.

@@psirotta Well turn them off silly! There's a button for that, and you don't need them to follow along the dialogue ;P

Have you seen the apple peeler/corer he restored? That thing is a marvel of over engineering.

@@Vikingwerk yeah, but it works dang good and is fast!

As much as I want to judge my plastic brushless makita drill in the presence of beautiful old user-serviceable tanks, this one is a bit much. This is the first time I have felt I had a better chance of understanding a brushless ESC than the switching mechanism of an old brushed drill.

It's a lot of money work and practice to get good at it but yeah it rly does comin handy somthimes

$58 in 1920, so around $850 today.

@@HandToolRescue Certainly not in reach of a hobby DIYer. Peculiar somehow... today you can still buy a electric drill for $58. But a coffee costs $3 instead of 5 cent back then.

850 is still kinda what you would pay for something really heavy duty today. I cant imagine this was bought to drill just a couple of small holes. Closest thing I would compare it to would be a mag drill.

My grandpa had an old drill that he only used when it was dry because if you were grounded through the wet ground, you got a nice zap. He still kept the drill, though, heh.

@@skunked42 Well, one thing is for sure: you got a lot of drill for your money back then - it must weigh 20 lbs or so. :)

What kind of press? Gordon, Kelsey, Chandler and price? Treadle powered? I'm an old school pressman and I love the old hand presses.

@@JamesThomas-gg6il, it is an Eyring from Germany, the company is called Wilke since 1911, if I am informed right. It hat a big hand cradle on the side. The " motor conversion" was a similar mechanic they used in the 1950s to power Church bells but much smaller. A friend of mine found it in a barn, he wanted to buy an old Lanz Buldog and ended up with alot of other stuff, the Buldog was sold only minutes before he arrived.

What i was about to type. Shellac was also used. Some swore it was asbestos in another comment lol i couldn't stop laughing at their ignorance.

@@Pimentel-Kreations you are right, Schellack was used verry often too. I can only laugh at these people, who think : Oh it is old, there must be asbestos in and it is radioaktive too. In an old Telephone Forum we have these questions weekly in summer when the yardsales and fleamarkets are every single day. In my freetime I do nothing else than restoring such old devices. If that really is the case, I must be found dead like a mouse and glowing in the dark many years ago.

He is not concerned about the wiring but about the mountingplate, wich looks to be made out some sort of a fibre-resin based material. I understand his concern.

I'm happy that someone else had this suggestion also. Step bits for thin sheet metal will change your life! Plus the next step in the bit acts as a deburing tool.

A wooden buck to back the thin material is also an option.

@@TheFurriestOne That was my first thought.

You beat me to it.

Or put a piece of cloth under the drill bit. Try it. Sounds crazy. Works perfectly. Thank me later.

That wasn't done for your safety,but rather profit margin. They could have encapsulated the housing in hard rubber

Half this modern stuff is junk though.

@@timesthree5757 So was much of the old stuff. Its just that the old stuff is more repairable, so we tend to see it through that lens. Honestly, a cheap 18v Ryobi drill from Home Depot probably has similar power to this all metal machine, especially if it's the brushless version. As far as coating a metal drill in rubber goes, that would be dangerous since the coating would degrade and peel off over time, exposing a metal housing that could be live. I fix medical equipment for a living (I'm a Biomed) and my job literally came into being because of how unsafe electrical medical devices were designed back in the day. Plastics are inherently safer than metal when it comes to housings. They may not last 100 years, but then nothing has to. It is obsolete long before that is a real issue.

@@3rdworldgarage450 I own an 89f250 7.3L IDI Diesel. Live in a house built in 1898. Own a 79 bass boat with a 76 115hp Johnson. I never own anything new cause as a Mechanic I know that new stuff is junk. Yer paying 40,000$ for a throw away vehicle. Don't give me this, "modern cars are safer crap. Above 45mph yer dying". I've had to wrecker many new cars to know the safety argument is bull.

@@timesthree5757 Where did I say anything about cars? I was referring to electrical devices. I myself prefer to work on older vehicles and count among my fleet a 425,000 mile 1998 Nissan Frontier that I do all the work on myself. I dont daily it anymore as the nature of where I live and what I do demands a newer vehicle, but I definitely prefer old to new when it comes to cars. Power drills? Ill take my 18v Makita over anything from 50 years ago.

Ah, yes. Thank Heaven for those cellulose fibre mines and those fabulous zinc chloride wells! And the laughing besmocked peasant girls who collect these ingredients which virtually throw themselves out of the ground into their baskets! And the cheery sounds of their gay traditional songs ringing through the woods as they help to keep making the motors that blow cold air up the arse of yet more entitled Chelsea Tractor drivers.

@@garyjonah22 The cellulose fibre mine would normally be called a tree. Although the world is actually running out of zinc, the world production of vulcanised fibre represents less than 10,000 t of zinc from a global production of more than 12 million t. The vulcanised fibre zinc requirement could be produced from seawater so in a way you are right, in that the ocean could be considered a well of sorts.

@@lyrebirdcyclesmarkkelly9874 Oh, how silly of me. I'd forgotten about those Cellulose Fibre Tree plantations where each tree produces thousands of bales of pure, consistent, dry fibres ready for immediate use . Not so sure about the sea washing up sacks of purified zinc chloride conveniently close to the Vulcanized Rubber factory though. But you never know. I mean, anything's possible these days, what with the electricity wells and hydrogen mines that are being planned as we speak. By the way, do you ever hear unexplained loud whooshing noises?

E@@garyjonah22

@@garyjonah22 you sound entirely unhinged and like you've never actually researched how these things are made. would you care to cut the sarcasm and say what you really mean

I had a fit about the wires all but one having ring terminals on the ends! haha But awesome videos as always !

That and Malaysian dudes picking up old electronics, motorcycles, etc. from muddy riverbanks and 'restoring' them back to working order!🤣🤣

„ Hi, this is *generic restauration channel 69* and today we are restoring a spoon - with pink glitter epoxy!“ Thank god for the few people like Eric that do proper restaurations of old tools that don‘t take 30+ videos to complete.

That's the worst of all of them, hands down.

Would you like a knife restoration? Has that EVER BEEN DONE BEFORE? Seems complicated...

Agreed, there is only four proper tube restorers, this man, geoffrey croker, the post apocalyptic inventor and fingerprint workshop.

I thought he was referring to the terminal block, not just the wires. Asbestos was clearly not only used in high-heat situations because they made asbestos home insulation, flooring, and wallpaper for a long, long time.

They did those things out of asbestos for defense against high heat.... building fires. All three things were historically not fire resistant and led to many tragedies so they used the "miracle" fiber to slow the spread of fire.

@@TKing2724 Asbestos in it's original form looks like this: www.h2odistributors.com/global/productpics/misc/asbestos-photo-1_l.jpg It's like a rock composed of a million parallel rock threads So it crumbles easily and is not strong at all. No way you could make a terminal block out of it. That terminal block was probably bakelite or some sort of resin impregnated stuff like circuit board are made of, just much thicker.

@@jimthesoundman8641 I know what asbestos looks like. I'm sure you'll agree that it doesn't look like wallpaper or home insulation either, so that point's not really relevant. Ironically, pressed asbestos boards in electronics were very common, that's why I mentioned it, hah. Edit: Your post was removed because of the link, but I can still read it. I'm not trying to be a dick, you're just incorrect in saying the block can't be asbestos because asbestos is a rock.

@@These_Old_Engines Read this sentence again. "Asbestos was primarily used where you had super hot things like steam pipes you needed to insulate." That is not correct, it was also used as fire resistance in the home products I mentioned (and others).

I was sure it was a joke, especially when he moved the wire, and still didn't put a terminal on the end.

No. People weren't that stupid in those days. Hot chassis electronics always had proper isolation so even if the chassis is live, you can not touch anything. Hot chassis devices are still plentiful. Most LED lighting drivers and solar inverters are of that type. The chassis (meaning the electronics) cannot be grounded ever, because that would cause a short circuit between phase and neutral (which is connected to ground somewhere). It's important to know the distinction between phase, neutral and ground. Any ground connections to such hot chassis devices, is purely a signal ground (such as for the radio reception ground). The case could be grounded if it's metal, of course. All antique devices i've had in my hands were designed to be safe to touch regardless of plug orientation. It was however a problem that occasionally due to vibration, isolation would wear through and electrify the metal parts. Working with that kind of power tool in the rain also caused many shocks. Van Der Heem (a dutch brand of power tools) knew this, and commercialized on making safer power tools in 2 different ways: double isolated tools that featured 2 layers of isolation (the conventional winding isolation, as well as a barrier of plastic or bakelite between any metal part you can touch, and anything carrying mains. This was common for the smaller tools. The 2nd one was to supply the tools with a 3 wire power cord, so it could be safely grounded. This was common for the super heavy tools. Because the metal case would be grounded, any leakage or short from the phase to the case, would be short circuited, which blows the fuse in case of a 'hard' leakage, or just keeps the case at ground potential when it's only a small leakage.

Since the drill was originally designed to be plugged into a light socket, it may have been grounded at that time, but someone made a mistake later, when modifying it to use a modern plug. As a random RU-vid commenter, I should say that I have no particular expertise here, but it seems like an obvious explanation to me.

Do I detect a fellow Mark Presling viewer in the wild?

I think a ground will protect you from a short, but I think that the case is "hot". The old plugs had equal sized plug ends.If you got a tingle, you flipped the cord.

@@droopy_eyes we don't use that fake currency here. You would be suprised at how useful that old stuff is.

@@droopy_eyes Yes.

@@timesthree5757 That "fake" currency is worth more than USD.

@@rubiconnn no now it isn't. Also don't care.

Wired up backwards and energized the case

Step drills work great. You can also put a block of wood on the back side to support the thin steel and let the drill bit go through both the sheet steel and the wood, this will also prevent it from bending.

I too was surprised that he didn't do that.

I actually did clean the commutator bars and the motor shaft, but I cut it for time. You can see that they are more shiny during reassembly.

@@HandToolRescue your videos could be twice as long and NOBODY would complain

My strategy with stranded wires on terminals is to twist them counterclockwise before making the hook. Keeps the strays under the terminal and makes the whole thing less likely to fray out as you tighten the terminal