a good primer for the subject, thanks for putting the info out there for people to use to guide their research. its interesting what different 1911 smiths think about the process
Atlas makes great guns. I saw them at SHOT and it’s really clear why their reputation is as good as it is. I’ve got a Guncrafters and the trigger is amazing - as is Atlas. This is the best explanation of the 1911 trigger I’ve seen. Thanks!
I wish I would've found this and the spring tweaking video before I took my 1911 apart and polished all the pertinent parts. I would have gone into it with a better understanding of what I figured out on my own. Outstanding video and presentation without all the technical "I'm smarter than you" angle some people do. 👍
~The 1911 Trigger System: So simple an operation, yet it took a Genius to design it and make it work. ~My Pistols are for defense so I like a 3.5 to 4 pound trigger.
Years ago, videos like this were not available. We had to do this the hard way- we apprenticed to a gunsmith who used you as cheap labor in exchange for knowledge, a gunsmith was a mystical figure and videos like this were totally not available to you. The idea that someone would actually show this knowledge to the general consumer is revolutionary.
Atlas Gunworks I just subbed. Always good to get refresher training and learn what might be new. Even experienced Gunsmiths can learn new tricks. The most common questions I get are about springs, I’m sure it’s the same with you.
It’s not the two pound trigger that’s dangerous, it’s the untrained unskilled trigger finger acting on it! My 1911 has been at 2.2 pounds for over a year since I finally learned what affected the overall performance. Jay William’s videos provided a base for learning all that was needed and I highly recommend his very detailed videos, both five years ago and now more recent. I recently switched to the Pro Radius jig and very quickly achieved a near perfect pull with zero creep! I have since upgraded all three of my Rock Island 1911’s to this radius sear angle and all turned out great. Look it up, you won’t be disappointed but as all responsible shooters know, keep it safe. Follow the well known safety procedures and the super light trigger won’t be an issue other than increased accuracy. 👌🇺🇸
Very well done, it's great to have videos like these available to us common folks. Your point regarding a two pound trigger pull being something for a competitive versus someone that makes a trip to a gun range once a month should be taken to heart in my humble opinion. I had a 1911 and with some assistance tuned it. It had some take up and barely any creep and broke like glass. Had to be extra disciplined, (a good thing as there's no such thing as too much discipline handling any FA) to not fire the weapon a second time as it cycled. The trigger was the lightest I've handled, I didn't have the means to measure it. I sold it to someone that shot more than myself. I really like the Sig Sauer P-220 in part because the DA to SA, with the lever to safely drop the hammer rendering the gun safe until the trigger is pulled. I'd like to see a comparable video covering that platform. Thanks for posting, as I said great information.
I’m doing a lot of research and watching videos on the 1911 to familiarize myself with all of its functions and friction points in operation . This in preparation to improve my newly purchased 1911 . Your videos are good and it’s possible I’ve missed something but nowhere on RU-vid does anybody address friction points as regards to the pins and pivot points . Much of these rotating points could be polished with a Dremel tool , Q-tips and Flitz polish . Polishing those areas has to make a difference on the trigger pull even if you didn’t touch anything else .
Unless the pins are damaged or improperly manufactured polishing them will have little to no effect on the trigger. Under sized pins can help with guns that have poor alignment between the hammer and sear pin holes.
You said the magic word ( maybe a little ) . If done properly and done from one end to the other on any trigger job , little trickles make big rivers . I haven’t touched my 1911 and know the average trigger pull . Just doing what I discussed and nothing else I’ll let you know If it makes a noticeable difference .
Oh boy.... Now I want to do a trigger job on my colt. Scared to try. But it's stock and everything is so damn tight. Hard trigger, slides right. Spring are hard. I just want it to be a shock 1911, and it is currently not!
The portion of the sear tip employed on half cock seems to be only at the center, saving the external parts, only used to retain the twin trigger hooks. I didn't see anything like this before.
Just stopping by for saying thanks for this kind of videos and Atlas gunworks I make these myself and I reach out 1.8 pound trigger pull and all is working like a stock safety trigger and everything. Keep the good work my friends and keep safety.
I just ordered a bunch of internal replacement pieces from Wilson Combat. Currently sitting here watching random videos as I sand down the sear for that custom fit. I neglected to pay enough attention when I ordered it and now I sit here with only 1500 grit sandpaper so that it fits properly. This is going to take a few minutes....
So the major components of a quality trigger job are the fit and finish of each of the parts involved in the trigger? Does the mainspring housing spring tension and sear fork tension not matter as much? I come from the world of modifying Glock pistols and just started getting into 1911s, and polishing up the trigger components will definitely lead to a smoother and lighter trigger pull, but you don’t start seeing MAJOR differences until you change out the springs, which is why I ask.
The angles of the engagement surfaces on the hammer and sear are the most important part of the trigger system. Followed by the sear spring and its influence on the sear and disco/trigger load. The main spring is less of a factor but can make a slight difference. The polishing of parts has a smaller affect on the trigger unless their are very unsmooth surfaces and burrs. In the case of burrs and rough surfaces then the proper removal of the burrs and polishing will have a greater affect.
Chances are that the grip safety leaf on the sear spring does not have enough tension. Grab it with the thumb and forefinger and pull it out slightly to retention it.
I have done the part about the quality parts and the polishing part... but even though everything is sharp and crisp I need to adjust the leaf spring... please post a vid of leaf spring adjustment...
Where can I buy this block ? I'm having an issue with hammer dropping with thumb saftey, I have a colt commander and after 20 years I wanted a skeleton trigger and hammer, and now I'm overwhelmed with the trouble shooting, I had to file the bottom of beaver tail grip, just to give it clearance to spring out
OK you said if we have question to ask so here I go. What makes the trigger light? Is it all the work you do polishing the hammer and disconnecter or is it how much tension you have on the trigger spring? Also what relation ship does the main spring have to the trigger pull?
On my 1911 when I rack my slide back and I pull trigger to release hammer it gets stuck I have to push hammer down to release I can’t figure out why it’s happening was wondering if I can get some feedback on what may be causing this
Congratulations on the video, because it helped me a lot. I saw that the video weapon is a STI - Apeiro, but I noticed a difference in the top end (barrel and slide). I live in Brazil and have a STI - Abreiro .45 ACP, with Schuemann Tribrid II barrel. I'm having trouble with this barrel, twice he had a crack in the middle after 20,000 shots. Did the gun barrel also present this problem? Was it replaced by another classic model barrel? Thank you
Brother I think I went too far.. besides the polish job i did at home which took me hours! I changed some springs from wilson combat and now it's a 1lb 55 how can I get I get it back to 2lb
More trigger break weight is easy. Just apply more pressure to the middle and left legs of the sear spring. Bend them slightly together. We have vids on how to do this.
I’m having hammer follow on my Dan Wesson. I took it apart today and everything looked ok. Cleaned every inch of the lower and slide. Put back together and shot it and still happening. I’m thinking about offing a spring kit and just replacing the sear and other springs. Does that sound like a good place to start?
I'd think it would be better when you advertise your website if you had one that worked, was viewable....unless I am missing something. I went to look at costs of trigger job on an 1911. So what did miss>? All I am seeing is a video.
@@AtlasGunworks is there a way I could send you a video of how to trigger works ? And also my thumb safety works but I don’t hear clicking sounds coming from the spring. I have to put some pressure to flick up the thumb safety
Funny, because there are extended hammer struts to fix lack of tension on the hammer at rest. If you want to reduce tension on the hammer, why not use a lighter mainspring?
Pretty confident saying you’re the best on the planet 😂. That’s funny, I think Ted Yost, Baer and even Steve Nastoff who isn’t even doing gun work anymore wouldn’t agree much less even allow you to shine their shoes. Seriously, what a dumb thing to say.
Karl, if you need one sooner it’s an Armorer Block from 10-8 Performance, sold on their web site. Just used mine to dismantle my 1911 for the first time..
I have a question I just built my 1911 armscor kit which it had everything but the frame and I have a stealth arms frame my beavertail is not pushing back well and trigger is not resting when I shoot have you ever heard of anything like this
Nobody needs a 2# trigger on a 1911 pistol. That's an accident waiting to happen. The industry standard of 3.5# - 4.5# is plenty good enough for a match grade trigger. I would not want to be involved in a self defense shooting with a 2 pound trigger.......
This is a competition trigger setup, not for a tactical or defensive weapon. Atlas Gun Works builds some of the best competition 1911s and 2011s out there. YOU make assumptions it is for a tactical weapon. It is not.
Legally classified as a "hair trigger", a 2 pound trigger break would only be necessary for guys who can't shoot. This falls into the "just because we can" group of things maybe we shouldn't actually do. Freedom and liberty are great concepts and I'm one of the biggest fans ever but anyone involved in a "shooting", no matter which side - good guy or bad guy - is going to learn quickly about "hair triggers" and the legal system. Good luck.
