Hi Nate, I like the talking also! Can't believe that guy's comment about the Keyless Works! That was too funny! I love it that nomenclature that EVERYONE learns and knows is such an issue to him. That said, there's room for everyone at this party. I had no idea that a nomenclature change was underway at all! 😀 Thanks for another great video!
Hi Nate. I am planning to apply for a 2 year program at WOSTEP starting in 2025. As I don't know anything about (dis)assembling and the parts etc. I will be learning it from a local watchmaker who is willing to show me the basics. I will also be watching your videos of course, thank you very much for sharing your knowledge and experience!
How much would a service like this cost on average? I have my eye on a lovely Longines from the 60’s, but since I can’t do the service myself I would like to know how much I need to invest additionally in order to get the watch back running. Every time I ask a local jeweler, they all can’t give me a rate until they see the watch.
Professional watchmaker here. You should be tightening every single bridge down before you move on to the next. You should be checking the barrel endshake, it's between 2-4 hundredths mm. Why aren't you using a mainspring winder, manually installing it like that is bad for the main spring. Why didn't you remove the click and click spring? We no longer use keyless works, it's called the setting and winding mechanism. You should be using HP-1300 preferably not natural grease. What type of oil are you using on the escapement?
Then you should be aware that when this watch was manufactured, it was common practice to use only one oil for the entire movement. Look it didn't fall apart and burst into flames within the past 70 years. It'll be fine for another 70.....even without following your advice.
@@sonik954 Yeah, that's not true. Also, this guy Nate runs a business repairing watches and yet I'd like to see his work up close. He's supposedly a professional yet he should be striving for perfection. Just keep telling yourself lies, bud.
You are very rude, Mr Professional. We want to see your work first, before we believe that you can repair watches. Show us. But be aware that we will criticize every single bit you will do. Everybody calls it keyless works. You didn't watch many videos here on YT, did you? Nate is one of the good guys, no reason beieng harsh on him.
Ok lets answer some of these questions. Whilst I may typically tighten one bridge at a time I don't think it's even worthy of critique, if an issue does arise I can just....take a bridge of. And there are plenty of watches which house both barrel and train so no I don't really see an issue here. As for barrel endshake, as a professional watchmaker I'm sure you know when a barrel doesn't feel right, whether it's too loose, tight or very worn. In which case of course you would check them. The barrel was moving freely with some endshake so I continued assembly. I explained why in this particular instance I wasn't using a mainspring winder but I'll put it in writing here. Its a manual wind with a brace at the end with an allocated whole within the barrel, so I would wind it by hand to make sure everything lined up. Can't say it would have been as easy with a mainspring winder. The click is probably the only worthy critique, yes I could have removed it but saw no issue and decided to leave it. The whole keyless thing sounds like a football vs soccer debate, we both know what we mean when we use either term and I'm not going to get into a debate over it. Finally I use 941/2 on the pallets. Hope this helps.
So the first message came across as a little more constructive, and this seems a little more...aggressive XD. I try to show things up close, ain't nothing to hide. Want to get better equipment to showcase that but for now we work with what we have.