Thank you for the video, I was cussin up a storm trying to figure out how the shaft came out, I would have never guessed there was a giant nut on the inside. Putting my new wheel bearings on now, and its back to work for this old tractor
Thanks for the good feedback. It's definitely easier for others to follow along this way. Takes me three times as Long dealing with the camera and editing but well worth it I think.
@@flyfliker A lot come from Reliable Aftermarket Parts on ebay or Amazon but some from Stieners and the engine kit was from Yesterday's tractor. Seals and other odd and ends from Advanced auto parts.
I agree. That's why I left them! As for paint I used tisco persian orange #2 with hardener. smalink.com/default.aspx?page=item+detail&itemcode=TP285GAL&catlist=8514&parent=3748
Do you have the bearing numbers for the 4 final drive bearings and also the seal number for the differential/transmission where the axle shaft goes into the differential? Great video!
Re-Watching, I just picked up a transmission/rear end for a B with finals as my final housings were grooved the outside and had mix matched bolt sizes, banged up pans, etc. On yours, Did you have to replace the bearings?
First, thank you for you Videos! What kind of paint did you use to paint the inside? I know that there is many types and thickness of gasket material, Any way to determine what type and thickness to use such as with your shims and paper?
The paint on the inside is just oil based rustolium. It doesn't contact oil so no need of a special paint. You could figure gasket thickness in many ways I imagine. Easier to do with this by adding too many shims then back down one. In the automotive world I'm a bit more precise. Here i am going by feel. The manual in many places say tonjust get a nice rolling fit with no endplay. One trick I sometimes use is to put a thick piece of solder in between where the shim goes then tighten it down. Measure the solder and subtract the preload from the measurement or add to it if the spec is end play. That method may not work well with shims like this though but works good with shims behind races.
I just reassembled mine and notice some chater between the bull gear and final drive gear. It sounds noisey when i turn it by hand. Should it have so much play between the two gears?
Mine doesn't make any noise. Only clicks a little with small amount of backlash when I rock it back and forth. Are the gears all original. I saw in the parts manual different years will have different gear ratios. Tooth count is slightly different. May a gear was replaced with the wrong one? I think I remember you had a C as a parts tractor? If you used the bull gear from that it might be the issue
did you sandblast this housing? Seems to me you said at least in other videos that you sandblasted the cast item you were working on. That must be I good sized cabinet if you can get housings in it
I sandblasted the smaller stuff. I used a needle scaler and wire wheel on the larger parts. I sent you some pics of the block as an example on Facebook messager
I have several 1940s and 1950s allischalmers tractors. I have looked online for a parts catalog for bearing seals and gaskets and have not had any luck finding many items. Where did you find your parts?
The seals I matched up by size entering the shaft and bore size on a temkin web site. Ordered cheap at auto zone. Bearings I ordered by the number on the bearing from parts stores. Gaskets and other stuff was stiener tractor. Yesterday's tractor and Amazon. Many gaskets I used RTV even if a gasket was available.
Yes they are! I edited about 10 min out of that spring part. The level of work changes based on need and what the wanted final outcome is. Yours worked great for your plan to get it running as is. My tractor is a little more sentimental I grew up on it and now it's going to live inside and only come out for fun. This is the first tractor I have ever restored and I'm sure I'm going a bit overboard.
