Doing a good job actually showing how long it takes to do something most of the RU-vidrs that are out there skip seeing the actual process keep up the good work
soundin GOOD! for coming back to life. i have some motors, 1972 18hp, i have two im going to start on when the weather warms, they been sitting for a spell.
Thanks! Now that the Fall is on us I will likely start fixing snowblowers as the old outboards dont sell in the winter. But I will surely stock up some cheap ones for next spring! More to follow!
Can't wait! Love the straight forward approach to filming and that you don't cut out to much. It's enjoyable to just hang out in the garage while you wrench. Hope to see this channel grow!
@@Alex_Willis right! Some outboard RU-vidrs edit through too much. People generally watch these to learn. There is one guy that I used to watch and he knows his outboards pretty good, but he's constantly fast-forwarding segments and so I pretty much stopped watching. The longer the better!
I have watched a number of videos of people struggling with the recoil. You are the first person with the know how to clamp the darn thing before attaching the pull rope. Finally a smart mechanic. When you had it on the boat it seemed to be running roughly. Maybe missing on one cylinder?
Glad you got it all going and nice to see the original Medallion still present as most of them are missing and people have put the one from the 1957 on a 1958 hood . Your Motor is a 1958 by the way. Any motor with that color scheme is 1958 opposite color scheme on the hood and a darker red is 1957.
I've still got 5 NOS 1958 medallions. Amazing that they are so rare now. I bought mine years ago........... most still in their boxes. Thank heavens I bought them when I did.
If you had checked the compression first, and if it was nearly equal and in a good range, there would be no reason whatsoever to remove the cylinder head. I could not tell whether you had done that or not. I sure hope you did not reuse the old head gasket which had already been compressed for many years. (Hard to tell because I could not hear what you were saying.) Watching the segment on the recoil starter, I see where you would have greatly benefited from a good shop manual. For example, no need to clamp the recoil starter after rewinding the spring; there is an alignment hole so that you can insert a rod to hold the tension while installing a handle. And the timing of the spring on the eccentric you did not seem to address, which could make the motor much more difficult to pull over. However, you did a great job overall and I congratulate you on your success. A cylinder is misfiring on the boat test, but I'm sure you addressed that by now. Like you, I love these old 18's and have four myself. They are the best of the best in an era when America produced the best in the world. Sad to see how far behind this nation has fallen today. Thank you for your video. (You surely need a better microphone; extremely hard to hear what you are saying.) Again, thanks.
It came to me with the head off, so I needed to put it back together first. I did reuse the old head gasket, but it’s been fine all this year (going 2 seasons now), and yes I received lots of heat for doing this, but it’s not like I go far or run a fishing charter off of this engine. Good to see lots of knowledgeable folks commenting on this video. All of these points are taken aboard for when I get into one of these again. I am certainly no expert. Thanks for watching!
@@RetroVertig0 Yes, and I am glad you responded because I came across in more of a scolding mood than I intended. You did a very good job for someone who is/was inexperienced - probably better than me when I was at that level of experience. For that I apologize. I did not mean for my comment to sound as harsh as it did. Thanks again for going to the effort of making the video.
Yeah, I’ve been lucky in that most of the lower units I’ve had were good. Sometimes I need to drill out and reinstall a new locator pin so the bronze bushing won’t spin. But that’s the most I’ve needed to do. Thanks for watching!
Those were great engines. My last one like that was stolen 20 years ago. Now I have a 1971 model . Basically the same. No glass fuel separator on the newer model.
Major carburetor size change around about 1967, which gave the 18 some more "kick". Thermostat added around 59-60. Otherwise, same great motor - the holy grail (1958) of 18's.
That motor did not come with a fuel pump...someone put that on. It ran with a pressurized 2 line tank. Did they block off the pulse line that pressurized the gas tank??
@@RetroVertig0 I'm about to convert a 1956 15 Hp (model FD-10). I saw a T-Mike's video where he made the conversion by swapping a side plate from a newer model. The other option shown was removing the air pump valve behind the carburetor and plugging one side. It creates a pulse that will run a diaphragm fuel pump. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-Gbq5htJ0U3c.htmlsi=N-b0x-f3aehGmORv
Might try soap testing the top crank seal, it looks rather oily up around in there. I'm doing a 1966- 18hp for that reason now. Part # 305987 OMC or 18-2018 Sierra
@@RetroVertig0 yes! For sure! I only noticed my need for a new crank seal while installing new points and condensers, I saw it was pretty oily so while I had the mag plate off I put some diluted dish soap around the crankshaft and turned it. Sure enough, it was blowing bubbles! 😆
Looks bit of a not good working here with that sanding stuff.. Just take a razorblaze that you have hand-balance to it by sharpening it. No need to scrape metal off. MasT OF MAst ON !
That sealer is not supposed to be used cause that plugs the holes for water to keep the engine cool . Also the plug wire bracket goes on the center bolt .
24:1 is correct as far as period literature. However, an early 18 is fully equipped with roller bearings (mains, rods, crank) and, thus, will be fine with 50:1. But this ratio is not propper to many other motors - such as a Johnson 10hp, which would not be fully equipped with rollers until 1961.
I put a hose coupler on a piece of large fuel hose, leaving the other end bare. Then I cut two 6” x 3” pieces of rubber (from an old wheelbarrow tire). I used c clamps to clamp it all together. As long as the hose is pointed at the water intake, and there is a bit of back pressure from the tire flaps, it’s enough to keep the impeller pumping water. Hope that explanation is clear. Thanks for watching.
Someone has changed the carb as it should have a sediment filter bowl under the float bowl. Also yes that float has been changed to updated plastic Float. I own a 1958 Johnson18hp FD-12. There is packing available for the needle valves .
I reconditioned three 50's motors and fully tuned up two others. They all start in 1-3 pulls. I use the original fuel system and don't convert anything. You do a good job as a do it yourselfer. Definitely a little cringing for a technician to watch. Sorry no sorry, lol.
@@RetroVertig0 By the book or common knowledge between experienced technicians are different. Reusing a head gasket and using silicone on a head gasket isn't something I would do even if I was selling it to a stranger. Shaft seals are lubricated by fluid on one side so I question how stacking 2 together would be logical. The bushing can be popped out with a long punch from the other side. They make a special tool for it but you don't need it. Tapping and threading it where the shaft rides defeats the purpose of it being a bushing. By the book would be giving you a hard time for using a hammer on a socket and extension, lol. We all do that. Either way you made it work. Use it and be proud. I'll note that there is a top crankshaft seal that can give starting and idle issues. You need to remove the magneto to replace it. Richard's outboard tools sells the removal tool. He also has the coil locator and timing tool for accurately adjusting the points.
I’ve bought one already, but the built in noise gate made it a rough experience from an audio perspective (a very jagged on/off sound profile). Do you know of any that you could recommend, understanding that I want to keep the workplace ambiance? Appreciate the input!
Propeller should be 9 1/4 X 11 standard propeller . Also you should use brass shear pins you can make some save on the propeller . The propeller nut should be just finger tight.
Yes probably. I also start with stock settings set rich. Boat I’m using is a 16ft StarCraft which is wayyyyy too much boat for this engine, but all I have for a test platform. I think all of the OMC engines without needle bearings in crank call for 24:1. Once I lean down the settings on the water on a boat that is better suited, it’s usually a pretty sweet ride!
My dad had one of those on a 18 foot alluminum richilne boat. We caught a lot of fish out of that boat. It did not have the rich and lean adjustment on the face. I think it was a newer model one. but mostly the exact same. I could ski behind it too. only 18 hp ours was blue. It was a little tiller motor. My dad would sit back there all day and troll and hold that tiller in one hand and fishing pole in the other. Good times for sure. Back way back when in the seventies. I bet it would have trolled slower if we had the low rich lean adjustments. You want to troll for fish pretty slow.
Hello, good video. I have a Johnson Sea Horse RD hp 25 year 1952 I need to buy some spare parts. Would you know of a store to order from Amazon? I am in Argentina. Thank you.
I since changed it. It still held pressure too as I hit the threads with a bunch of sealer. But yes, not something one would want to leave on for too long.
Its not rapping out man. Running too slow. carb is not opening up. hmm I dont know think that boat is too big for it but it dont sound like its running out. Maybe that carb is smaller?
I had my last 18 running on this boat at about the same performance. On this boat, it’s pretty heavy with a 70hp, trolling motor, 2x batteries, and its a 16ft. That’s why I think im Ok going this slow at WOT. The other 18 Hp (the gales from my other vids), performed the same on this boat, but were weapons when I put them behind a lighter 14ft. It was a little scary dailing in the carb at WOT on the 14ft. Lots of fun too!
Rewind needs to be lubed and that screw has to be tight. And I see your spring is pouched . Also rewind is not original to the motor it should be the red holiday bronz color.
Once i get it on a little boat i should be able to see. This one performed as well as a Gale i had running previously on the same boat. Scary fast once i got it on an emptyish 14' aluminum.
You absolutely shouldn’t be working on anything, using silicone on a head gasket is some stupid shit! And thinking someone could learn from this is absolutely horrifying! Should’ve pulled the powerhead! An absolute slap in the face to old outboard mechanics such as myself!
Red RTV holds up on a header which gets way hotter than a head so I don't see it being the worst idea ever. And if it doesn't hold up then he can replace it later. Don't really see the big deal. It's an old outboard, not the space shuttle. #Don't get it right, get it running. #If it works, is it really a dumb idea?
😊this guy has no idea what he's doing.. first red sealer , then keeps putting gas on top piston then wonders why gas runs out lower unit then pulls and pulls like a idiot CHASING ENGINE all over the garage iam taking a shot!!! That he built the stand as well be better used as fire wood he a disgrace to the RU-vid mechanics who actually show things right!! FULL REFURBISH??? Were in fuck did he do it in this video?.. should been called I WOUNDER IF I CAN GETIT GOING.
