Thanks a ton!!! I just got a 1970 85hp that starts slow and I figured I need to check compression. All your steps shown will definitely help me although i wish the fuel pump and carb stuff was talked through too. This is my first boat engine I’ve ever gotten and going to put it on a 1959 Glass Craft I just got to restore too. Thank you again!
This was right on time! I’m bringing a 85 Johnson back online and i needed to see this. Are you going to post the video of how it perform on the water?!
Gracias por ell video, soy de Argentina, tengo un johnson 115 HP de 1977 y me gira lento igual que el tuyo y se calienta el motor de arranque mucho, ahora al ver que lo cambiaste voy a intentar comprar uno nuevo, acá en Argentina lamentablemente el costo es de Usd 400, pero no tengo otra manera, lo compraré y funcionata, muchas gracias, ahora te voy a seguir, me diste una mano muy grande.
Nice video. Makes me miss my '81 90HP. Not sure if that motor has diverters in the heads, but when you test if you overheat they can be the cause and confirm the condition of the thermostats as well. Although they are a PIA to remove and replace.
18:37 Yes, there is about 300V on the black/yellow kill wire when the engine is running. That's the voltage the capacitor in the power pack CDI module is charged.
I pressed subscribe because I enjoy the format with showing everything speed up and if we wanted to we could manually slow down the speed to watch in normal time. Keep up the good work 🤙🏽
Omg man thanks so much, perfect timing. My ‘86 90hp evinrude was running fine last week, now leaking gas from the lower carb holes when I prime it, so it will only run at high speed idle, at idle it dies. Your videos helped me totally rebuild my 1974 Evinrude 4hp, hoping for the same with the 90 lol :)
the needle is stuck in it's seat, forcing all the fuel to get trapped in the idle circuit. 45 minute carb clean with a syringe and alcohol will fix you right up, and a new needle and seat of course
@@ct1762 thank you so much, sincerely appreciated. My only worry is that since there’s 2 carbs I’ll need to sync them - only ever cleaned single carb engines. Going to buy the rebuild kit in the meantime and wait for Brandon’s video on the carbs, lol. I watched the VHS video he posted on the link n sync, so I think I should be able to tackle this.
You brought back good memories. I had that motor on an '87 Crestliner bowrider. My first and only boat. It always ran like a top. Excuse my ignorance but what does VRO stand for? Is that the oil injection system. Mine was oil injected. It never gave me problems. When i bought the boat, a friend suggested getting rid of the oil injection and run mixed gas directly. I didn't bother because it was working fine. The boat also had an onboard fuel tank. Great motor.
That motor loves starters , I got a few of them in the garage from my 88 spl evinrude , same motor , I stocked a brand new spare in the garage , now I switched to a 150 johnson , starter on that is a pain in the but to get out , selinoid is mounted to the bottom on that johnson
Hey Brandon, I have a question about one of my outboards, You've got a video rebuilding the carbs. Its a 1978 Evinrude 85 hp. trying to troubleshoot some issues. I've throw a lot of the basics at it but can't quite narrow down the culprit. Awesome vid by the way! Thanks
Before I turn the motor over, spray some type of oil in the cylinder. Marvel mystery oil, 2 cycle in a good plastic spray bottle. That way it's not metal on metal and scratching the cylinder. Especially sitting so long. Nice video.
Hi, watched a lot of your videos. I have a 71 Johnson 125 that I have rebuilt an few year ago. It runs great but it struggles to get above 4000 rpm’s. The manual say the power band is 4500-5500 max power at 5000. I am not sure if it’s the wrong prop for the boat a 71 Glastonbury v-163 or timing. When I timing while using the method where you just crank it at 26* it will not get above 3500, and advance screw is pretty much all the way in. If I back the screw till there is a few threads I can get it up to 4000. I am not sure if timing a 2 stroke is like a car where I can time it for max power. I would like to be able to get 5000 rpm’s out of, the prop I have now is 13” 19 much I don’t it would be all prop. Compression is 95 with a harbor freight tester on all cylinders. I’m kinda out of ideas thanks
Question? 1992 140 hp v4. 87 psi on all cilinders. Is that bad for that engine? Should I do the the rings. It runs great but heavy on fuel. Starts on second turn. You have been a great help in restoring this engine 7 years ago. Thanking you. I was thinking not to tamper with it but I don't know if the psi is too low?
Please tell me the new style of the fuel pump also pump the oil or I have to mix oil manual to gas tank ? My motor is 115 hp Johnson 1985 with the original fuel pump that I think it has problem , but now it is too expensive to replace. Thanks
What is a good ballpark compression number for these older motors, I have a 1977 Evinrude 140 that I spent a day getting running due to electrical issues but it compression tested at 105 to 108 psi each cylinder. Once I got the electrical issues sorted it fired immediately and it runs fairly well considering its age and that I did nothing else
Men, my motor don’t want to start, idk if is cuz I’m using my car battery to see if it start (Gonna buy marine one) and is from my 09 civic which is small battery, but I’m going to fallow your steps next
Brandon, I have a Johnson 110 and I have had to take my motor in to get worked on. You seem to know what your doing. You by chance in Indiana or Chicago area? Dale
Hey it’s been awhile but I have a 1990 johnson 90 and I can’t find a vacuum hose diagram to save my life. Can you help me out and show me where they go?
I thought you were supposed to soak the cylinders real good before doing anything when they've been sitting that long, no? Great video though thanks for all the good information!
Bad wiring insulation and swollen water diverters in the cooling passages are major problems with old 4 Cyl Johnson/Evinrudes. Pull the heads and replace diverters!
That fitting at 11:56 , there all junk , that's the first thing we eliminate , that and the vro pump , run the fuel line right through there to the pump .
Hey wats up Brandon. Just took off my 1988 88hp Johnson spl off my boat. Started to leak some water in cylinder number 4. Replaced gaskets and whatever other else thought my fix it but no luck. Ended up just getting a new motor for my boat. So now this motor is laying here. If your interested in picking it up here in SoCal let me know. You do a lot of good things for the RU-vid community so I’m more than happy to donate it to you.
Hey Brandon, when you put your carburetors back together do you usually perform a Sync and Link? The manual suggests it but I feel like it’s unnecessary because i took mine off to replace the fuel lines on my 85’ 90 horse Johnson.
I have a 1993 Johnson 88spl with the compression between 110-115 on all cylinders. Is that considered good? The motor runs perfectly for its age and just trying to get an idea of how much longer I can expect it to last. Thanks and love the channel.
well, mine is at 90 and Im calling it good. However, Ive seen low hour motors from the early 1990's putting out 120- which is probably where they were new. 110 I would still consider very good. With that said, most OMC enthusiast would say these cross flow V4's are good at 90. But both you and I have seen higher..
There dirty suckers when it comes to compression, the manufacturer recommended some ring size ran through your gas regularly ,now I also recommend that , if you can find it , because these motors were meant to run hard , if you run them around 2800 and idle alot it carbons up , I figures that out the hard way , three power heads replaced on mine cause I didn't like the compression , 1300 to 1800 dollars each time except one time they warrantied it , but I think they were throwing used power heads on it , so I finally did it myself ..it lasted 8 months and did the same thing , port side compression down 30 lbs on one cylinder , 45 on the other ..again she came apart , that's when I figured it out , it was all carboned up , but it was to late, I picked up a newer loper style 115 johnson my other one was a 88 evinrude spl cross fire . One heck of a difference in power ..
Been working on my 86 evinrude 90hp...got it on my pontoon but it might be a tad too heavy...its crushing in my pontoon log...guess when they rate the pontoon for 50hp they mean it
When you adjust the idle you said you do it on top ? My sons 115 Evinrude idles low but I’ve not looked at it yet and hopefully you’ll have a video on that ! Otherwise I’ll set it the way I know , on the linkage plate ! Why would anyone put the VRO back on the outboard ? I just don’t trust it , many many VRO’s in the scrap piles , I’m thinking about getting 3 -90hp all with different issues and make hopefully 2 good outboards .
the idle speed screw is on top, but you really need to follow the synch n link procedure to a T. i can tell this one isn't adjusted properly by the roller in the spark advance... too low but only a timing light will tell you where it needs to be. the idle timing is adjusted by the thumb wheel
Well, usually when I see an engine that wont idle, its A) low compression, or B) throttle cable not adjusted. If nobody has screwed with the linkage its usually fine.
@@BrandonsGarage ya I fired it up today and like I thought the cable wasn’t adjusted correctly ! All that drama for a 5 second fix ! Lol. Once it was warmed up of course !
Please stop using the Harbor Freight compression testers (or any critical precision tool for that matter). They commonly only show 90psi when in fact, it is higher. It is a good tool to bring for getting a good deal on an engine but not for accurate checks. My jet ski read 90 psi on both cylinders with it, then bought a good name brand and read 145psi on each cylinder. Big relief. Just throwing my 2 cents. Love the videos, they are very calming.
At face value I would agree, however this one has been calibrated. Now, the newer designed ones have no business being anywhere, but this one in particular is accurate.
When it took off I was waiting for a accident that just snapped back. Great reaction time. Is this the first bigger motor you have worked on? I feel like most are like 40 and below. Either way great job keep up the good work can't wait to see it on a boat cruising you around
First bogger motor? H A H A, oh you're funny. Here is the thing; Bigger motors are flipping heavy. Little ones are easier for me to pick up. And here are the good reasons: A V4 like this one, in good running/looking condition will bring you $600-800 A 9.9 HP in the same condition will fetch that too, but cost a quarter of the repair price. It seems most people like small, easy to move, good on gas, economic engines they can tinker on. That not even mentioning the tool requirements. If I were fixing a motor to sell, and had to choose between fixing up a 30 HP or 115 HP, I would go for the 30 most of the time.
Be carful with that tester. It’s Pittsburg from harbor freight and unfortunately (due to manufacturing purposes) you will always get a reading of 90 psi. When in fact it’s most likely much higher. Just some food for thought
Hello from Australia Brandon! Just wondering if you know somewhere I can get a new or used bearing carrier for my 55ETL79C lower unit. I finally made the puller legs as I could not find them ANYWHERE and the carrier broke right at the o-ring. Thanks for bringing great videos…helped me a lot with my teardown
Actually I cannot. These older Johnson basically don’t exist in Australia anymore. Everyone is going to 4 stroke. I just can’t see something as old as this not having a new lease on life so I have spent a lot of time taking it apart and repairing as much of the original parts as possible but I just have to replace certain things.
Good work but if it's been sitting for 12 years I would have lube'd every cylinder and crank from open throttle carb before I spun it.....just saying....
I'm surprised Brandon hasn't gotten a IR temp gun from Harbor Freight from how much you work on them. A torque stick for the V4 crossflow flywheel but no $25 IR temp gun?
@@BrandonsGarage Odd, somehow I vividly remember you using a torque stick on an outboard flywheel. I guess the memory is taking stuff I watch and throwing them all in the blender. Sorry bout that mixup.
If it’s been sitting for 12 years and you haven’t changed the water pump I’d change that before it deteriorates and doesn’t pump any water and over heats
At over $5 a gallon you cannot afford to run these anymore. Such a shame that there are so many great outboards out there that are unaffordable now. The new EFI 4 strokes are way better, even if they are more expensive to buy now vrs when 2 strokes were being sold 30 years ago new.
Do you just wait on seeing carbs - how bad or mostly just get the new kits- I just getting ready to tear into 175 vro - U know 6 carbs -look plastic to me - I don't have ang experience w/ newer 60° v6's but never seen plastic carbs - Guess bite bullet get oem carb kits?
Worst part about outboards is bad gas causing rubber fuel component death. You must replace all old rubber fuel lines, ALL OF THEM, use stihl brand hoses and submersible rated gas fuel line specifically. AND then you must check for air leaks, because clamps will not all clamp and there are other dodgy parts like plastic fuel line manifold splitters that crack and leak. ALL rubber lines, even the scavenging lines, choke lines, and vacuum lines. ALL OF THEM. Yes diaphragm too should be replaced. Your main thing is air leaks and fuel leaks, tiny leaks will wreck the normal smooth operating of all these cursed shottilly engineered outboards. REPLACE ANY HARD GASKET, check with fingernail, if you cant smush it, replace it so it can seal. Hard on hard surfaces DONT SEAL, so you have to check this with carb bowl seals and fuel pump seals. Your timing, and linkages and carbs are probably all right. the jets get clogged on carbs, dont replace them, clean them, then REPLACE ALL RUBBER FUEL LINES AND RUBBER FUEL PARTS THEN check for air leaks with a simple vaccuum gauge which those are cheap and you can rent them. When floats are up when gas is full in carburetor, you should be able to pressurize the system to 5 psi. Pressurize after bulb where line goes into tank, just where you put pressure in to check leaks. You can use stainless steel aircraft lock wire, to twist and seal very tight all of the connections. On my boat this is nessesary, the tank pickup barb is not standard, it doesnt clamp tight or evenly enough with stainless hose clamps, or zip ties, or plastic tooth clamps. You have to really cinch it tight with the stainless steel wire, twist it up tight. GO around hose twice then twist tight while pulling. This way is better than any type of clamp as far as sealing goes. Also, use a dab of silicone grease around the quick disconnect, those ALWAYS have the potential to leak. They want you to buy a brand new one every season and then, they have such bad quality parts, they leak and leave you stranded or pissed off that day as it wasted time and rescources getting out on the water. This is actually best advice, follow all of it, and you will have a good running motor. Replace all rubber fuel parts and or gaskets. Check air leaks, check hose clamps. Buy brand new proper size hose clamps, not ones that have been bent up. Not oversized ones either. Or use stainless lock wire, and get good at that. Its just about that simple.
Gracias por ell video, soy de Argentina, tengo un johnson 115 HP de 1977 y me gira lento igual que el tuyo y se calienta el motor de arranque mucho, ahora al ver que lo cambiaste voy a intentar comprar uno nuevo, acá en Argentina lamentablemente el costo es de Usd 400, pero no tengo otra manera, lo compraré y funcionata, muchas gracias, ahora te voy a seguir, me diste una mano muy grande.
