Jonathon, I used to work for Rambler back in the 60's and 70's. These were bad for the flex plate cracking and this sounds like it is. As others have said worth pulling the trans and see.
check the flywheel and torque converter,, Ive had many of these, and usually the dont knock from the rods till about 2300 rpm, but I have see many flywheels cracked, and sound like a rod
*Here is an idea, Jonathan. Call the shop that sold you the spun bearing engine. Tell them you would like to tell your audience that they made it all good with you so you can tell everyone and they can redeem their name. Then tell us what happened. | That will be fun.*
I would try the pleasant approach first, if they make good, all the better. Nothing to lose. Happened to me in the past and the person ended up giving me some extra bits I needed, everyone was happy.
@@briquetaverne Just to look good, especially on this PC RU-vid place, i would be both wise and polite to first ask to be made whole financially . . . and mention he wanted to be able to brag on the company on RU-vid.
Almost sounds like something is hitting the oil pan. I'm sure it sounds different in person. That stinks, looked like a nice one. Love your videos! Keep bringing that old iron back to life!
I had a Rambler American wagon with one of these in it, with an overdrive operated by a handle under the dash that looked like a parking brake handle. Loved that car! Can't wait to see that flathead Caddy crank up!
By the sound of this on camera it does sound like a rod or a crank shaft lobe hitting the shallow part of the oil pan. Usually a bad rod bearing you wouldn't hear an echo. The audio in the video theres an echo which would lead me to believe theres a clearance issue in the oil pan.. This is very common to inline six bangers of that era. Theres very little clearance to begin with so any dent upwards into the shallow part of the oil pan could easily cause this.. Definitely something to checkout before parting it out! Giver her a close check Jonathan! Good luck!
Its better to find some. Folks out like this it's a bad lick but as many car friends as you have thay just hurt them selves .it will get back around .you do a great job on all your video s watch them all been a fan for a while keepem coming .👍👍👍👍
I found a carb like that on the edge of an old property that had recently been turned into a parking lot back in the mid 1990's . Until now, it was the only one I had seen or heard of . I kept it, hoping I would be able to rebuild it one day as it is so unique . Still in my storage shed, but my storage shed is over four hours away, one direction, and I have no way to get there.
Tractors always glass bowls that functioned as a “filter” on the updraft carbs. The crap in the fuel would settle to the bottom where a little drain cock was so you could drain the dirt out.
Hey Jonathan I had one a while ago Sounded the same Was sump hitting crank Was from sitting the weight of the engine on the sump - only had marginal clearance to start with Worth pulling the pan...
I watch all your videos and this is how I learn how to and what not to do. Can't hardly wait to hear and see that flathead Cadillac engine. Thanks for taking the time to make this video.
I had a Jeep XJ with 4.0, made same noise. Cracked flywheel and backed out torque converter bolts. Replaced it all. Did it again. Replaced it all again. Did it again. Come to find out balancer had seperated at some point and outrr ring was gone. Fixed it all again. Issue solved. Week later my daughter backed it up in the street with door open into mail box and took the door off the hinges. Sold it for parts.
I had a Rambler years ago. Same engine knock. I sold it to my brother. Despite cautionary warnings he revved the engine too hard and the engine ran rough and made even louder noises. The car was a wagon, so it made a good storage unit.
I agree with some of the previous comments. I'm a retired mechanic with over 40 years experience working on car engines and Detroit Diesel engines. That doesn't sound like the typical rod or main bearing knock. I'd pull the pan and take a look before I gave up on this one.
I replaced the rod bearings on a rod knocking 3.8 L V6 ford engine, didn't touch the crank put Amsoil synthetic in it and drove it another 75,000 miles before the head gaskets went bad. So you may get lucky on this Rambler also. Jim
An MG-TC came into the shop I was working at. It had been restored to a point at another shop in another state. When I got it started finally and went to drive around the block it suddenly started knocking loudly. I had to pull the transmission anyway, so I dropped the bell housing pan and found the flywheel loose and clanking. I replaced the bolts holding the flywheel on and the engine was nice and quiet. It took a lot of tweaking to get that car reliable. At least the other shop did a nice paint job.
I love early 60's Ramblers and have had A LOT of 196 6 cylinders, the only problem I ever had with one was a wrist pin! As many people have pointed out, sounds like something hitting the oil pan. I'm sure these engines can be destroyed, but I have found them nearly indestructible!
JW, the Rambler motor would make a great autopsy. As I was hitting the like button I saw the Edsel valve covers. Love them. I think the E400 was an FE with a slightly larger bore than the 352 to give it 361 cubic inches. The 400 referenced on the valve cover was supposedly lb/ft of torque.
Sounds like it's knocking two times per rpm?? Like crank is hitting oil baffle!! In pan?? Sounds hollow as a gord??? May be last resort check oil pressure???
Rebuilt a '65 chevy 283 once up on a time. One of the crank counter weights was a really weird casting. It was just barely touching the oil pan after the rebuild. Sounded just exactly like this engine.
Yea! I agree with everyone else! I think I would investigate it a little bit more. It doesn’t sound quite like a rod knock! Also...... you may already know this, that E400 Ford engine is a Edsel only variant of the FE series. It’s 361ci and rated at like 305hp! All FE series engines have 352 cast in front of the block! 360,361,390,391,410,427,428s all have 352 cast on them! In case you didn’t know.
I know the feeling. Bought a engine and transmission for my 85 s10 from a guy for $350. It ran great and sounded good before was removed and i bought it and got it home and cleaned it up . Installed new oil pan , oil screen , fuel pump and seals and gaskets and installed it into my s10 fired it up and after got little warm it started maken a noise rattling sound and when u rev it up at like 2,000 rpm or so and oil pressure drops to like 10psi or so at 500rpm and up to full temp after driven it . It sounds like main bearings are shot and I'm so upset with the guy that sold me a junk engine . So now ive gotta do another engine swap this summer . It sounds good cold and runs okay but if u floor it or get it at that certain rpm up to temp it rattles like hell. I also have 20w50 oil with Lukas oil treatment to help the noise and bearings . If i baby it then it's little better but sounds awful.
The truck is on my channel if u wanna check it out and see what you think yourself . Give me some ideas butt loseing so.much oil pressure like that when it gets up to temperature to me just isn't good. Plus some people told me could be flywheel bolts came lose or it could be cracked butt idk really if that is the problem . Butt I also did a compression test and the highest was i believe 90psi on cyl 1 . 80psi cyl 2 . 80psi cyl 3 . 80psi cyl 4 . 80psi cyl 5 . 70psi cyl 6. Soo that's not good either 😤
The engine does run good except for that knock...you should at least drop the oil pan just to see .. it might be simpler than you think.. Looks like a GM bell housing..and a ford transmission..lol..I've heard that berore and turned out to be a rod bearing..we caught it shortly after it started So it was a easy fix..oh well you win some and lose some..hope you're doing ok ..see you on the next one Cheers friend 🍻🍻🍻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
I had a similar situation in a '68 Dodge Dart with the 226 sleepy six. I kept hearing what I thought was a rod knocking and a couple of shops actually told me it was and wanted to tear it down. Luckily a friend of mine at the time ran a full service gas station and he recognized the sound. Fifteen minutes later I was back on the road with a car that ran like new. It was a bent flywheel cover! I think Jonathan needs to put this on an engine stand, roll it over and pull the pan. It may well be something as simple as my problem was. If it is a bad rod at least then he will know for certain before he parts out what might well be a good engine.
@@richardcline1337 other then knock, there are was no smoke, no oil leaks ,no dead cylinders, other then the knocking seamed to be rite snug little engine?? I would put gage on it and see if it has ny oil pressure?? If it's got oil pressure it's not a spunt bearing??
Hello from Forest Grove Oregon!! Like some of the folks in your comment section, I agree that it would be neat to tear that engine down and find the problem. However, you're a man running his own business, wrenching a half dozen projects at the same time, and just dragged home about ten barn finds that would make anyone cringe at the amount of time and money they need. You're right about cutting your loss on that engine. I'm sure you will be completely honest with the next buyer!!
hey Jonathon . I had an engine with only one throw having been turned down . You might want to pull the pan and check the marking on the crank. Usually a machine shop will mark the regrind size on it . could be as simple as an incorrect bearing size
I had an 1980 Chev K30 with a 400CID V8 that had a knock like that. It was the fuel pump. Changed it out, noise went away. Since your fuel pump has probs, that may be the case too.
It runs good like they said. Needs a block knock sensor! Built a 455 Buick, started it on the back of my pickup with a log under the front of the oil pan. It started knocking, I thought I spun a rod on start-up. Found out the pan had dented from the log and was hitting a rod..
Ramblers had "Americans" and "ambassador" models. The Americans were low end and I'm definitely talking low end. I had a 1960 American station wagon; which was actually kind of a nice size compact wagon. Primitive car, the dash was just painted sheet metal, it was like a washing machine. As I recall it had a flathead 6. To be fair, I got the car for $75 in 1973 and it ran fairly kinda OK for a while but once running, stuff just started breaking and breaking one thing after another. I couldn't afford to keep it. I was SO going to comment on "greasy and dirty" engines!! LOL. You get a clean one, it's almost for sure blown up inside.
One of my friends had a 64 American convertible with that engine. We were coming home from the movies and he decided to see how fast it would go, well he got it up to about 85 and it spit a rod out the side of the block. It was a sweet looking ride but that engine was anemic but it had a 3 speed and overdrive it was a cheap high school car.
Barney Navarro built a Rambler 6 for Indy. These were the few years that stock blocks were allow. He turbocharged it and got 750 horsepower from it. It never made it to Indy because of a spun crank bearing. There is more to this story but enough said for this 7 main bearing engine.
There is a 32 deuce coupe powered by an Edsel 475 , push button column installed with Edsel dash . Built in the late sixties , it’s still running around town once a year . Save that Edsel for a retro build :)
Make sure the pan isn’t dented and something isn’t tapping it. It might only take a little dent to contact. I’ve dented pans setting them on the floor and handling them.
Had same problem on 70 55 olds after I put it in a ditch on night. Long story short drove me crazy. Found out bottom of oil pan push in just enough to hit on every cycle. I would check on pan. Just my 2 cents. Bill in W.V.
That engine reminds me of my xwife,looked good all painted up and shiny,but,something wrong with her inside,just never would act(run)like she should have l.O.l
I’ve got this exact motor in my rambler and it had a forged crank and rods from the factory, I would tear it down just to make sure. If you hadn’t sold it yet or gotten rid of it I’d love to take it.
I wish I knew what the name of that shop was because I've been a mechanic all my life and I've built a very good reputation and people like this need to be called out!
We had one 196ohv we had part of a piston ring brake and it stuck between the head and the top of the piston. It sounded like the world was coming to an end!
Agree with some of the other comments, it could be the camera audio but that didn't sound a typical rod knock. Be interesting to pull the pan & see, almost sounded "hollow" enough that it could be the pickup loose hitting the pan or something similar. Having said that, it did seem to actually run OK, just knocked it's balls off. Maybe they were a bit deaf?
I agree with the other comments, pull the pan and see, even though it sure sounded like a rod knock, and then don't ever do business with them again. I like your philosophy, don't get mad, just don't buy from them again.
It sounded like valve train to me. My shade tree ear anyway lol. It was knocking faster than the engine was running it sounded like. I'd love to see a tear down of this engine. Keep up the good work bud!
If you have time (joke) maybe try that supercharger on the five window just to see what it can do before you swap motors...or just maybe leave it until a Ford straight line 300 finds it's way over there...but l think that falcon 6 might do better with the solid lifters - they like to turn up good & the intake is part of the head...but you know all that already...l think that Chevy wants to go to the Cruise ln...good video
I had a 65 Rambler Classic 6cyl automatic in college, thank God it was given to me because If some one offered me another one off the assembly line all I would have said is , get thee away from me Satan.
The noise is very consistent and regular. From my experience, that rules out rod or main bearing knock, as well as wrist pins and loose pistons. Could be something in the valve train or elsewhere.
just a shot in the dark but i think its worth mentioning, most of those old amc cars had a vacum pump on the fuel pump to assist the vacum wipers, if that vacum pump is not connected, could we be hearing that?
OK Jonathan run the engine and one by one pull and replace the plug wires if it's a rod it will stop knocking when you get to the bad one, if it doesn't stop then pull the pan its probably the crank hitting a shield or tray if not the sump pan.
The E400 is 360 cid not 352 cid. It has 400 ft ib torque ergo the E400 with 303 hp. Was used in the junior series of Edsel. That would be a Ranger, Pacer and all station wagons. The block should be a pail yellow. The compression chambers are milled not cast as later FE engines were. Great find.
Man, you had me at Supercharged Rambler 6 Cylinder. Damn shame. Thanks for the video, Jonathan! *Stop the hammering!!!* - in my best #LawrenceODonnell :-D
My dad worked with me in the shop,, and he would NEVER paint an engine,, he said it was bad luck. Sometimes you just have to call it as far as how much you are going to put in an engine. I agree with you, this one is not worth it. Too bad though.
Well I mean I guess it does “run good”. It’s just about to throw a rod out the side of the block. Would be interesting to see you pull the pan and take a look at the bearings.
At first I didn't hear the knock until you went to the right side away from the exhaust them I heard it and it sounds like a rod bearing. It's also got a stuck or bad exhaust valve. That's the little "pingy" noise ;-)
