The parking lamps have to be grounded by plugging the bulb socket into the metal hood. The wires coming out of the socket are for the bright filament and the dimmer filament on an 1157 bulb. They are both "hot" wires, the ground is the metal springy things around the base of the bulb. The dimmer filament is parking, the brighter filament is turn signal. Parking lights are only on when headlight switch is pulled half out. They go out in the front when the headlights are turned on. The blue wire going into the turn signal switch only lights the little lights in the switch. The black wire should be connected to the "L" terminal on the flasher. The "B" terminal on the flasher goes to a hot wire (battery) usually only when key is on. If your flasher has a "p" terminal, you can connect the blue wire to that. On my 66 gmc, I get away with tying black and blue together, but I'm lucky that my flasher module isn't clicking all the time, but the little light in the turn switch doesn't draw enough current to make it blink. Usually the headlight switch has a brown wire that comes out and is hot when the lights are on, but is not dimmed by the knob, those are usually grey wiring. If you feed the stop lamp signal into the switch, through the red wire, it will be override on the rear side that is blinking, since the turn filament and stop filament are the same, the dim filament in the back bulbs is park lamp.
Tim, The great thing about these old Chevy trucks is that they make all kinds of aftermarket OEM replacement parts for them. They also make complete or partial wiring harnesses & kits including complete LED conversion kits. Do yourself a favor & look at these different options & get rid of that 50+ year old wiring & don't look back.
You probably dont give a shit but if you're stoned like me atm you can watch pretty much all of the new series on instaflixxer. Have been watching with my brother recently :)
You found it in the very beginning . When you have batt voltage @ground... BAM !! Bad ground.... Electricity will go wherever it’s easiest to return to source, so crazy shit happens. It takes the oath of least resistance... kinda like we do 😅
Faulty grounds are notorious on old vehicles. Even when you hook up too shiny metal at your ground does not mean you have ground through various splices all the way back to the battery negative post.
Hi Tim, if the front turn signal bulbs are not blown? I'd then trace the earth (neg) wire back from the front turn signals and check the connection, they are usually connected together. A non-flashing indicator usually means a bulb is out or an earthing problem. Good luck.
Definitely a ground issue, i just reground all my bed and lights and then all new harnesses and mine worked with the factory switch. I would recommend adding temporary grounds from everything your having issues with to the frame with wire. And buff it till it's bare metal where it's grounded
You need a resistor for led. They sell them at autozone. For about 5 bucks a pair. I just went thru a lot of trouble on a customers truck at the shop. Same issue. 77 chevy truck. Used the flasher with a ground cable and had to install a resistor. It worked perfect. You have prob solved this issued by now.
I've got a 66 c10 with the same issues. I've rewired the truck front to back so it's more than likely a grounding issue. I put one grounding wire on each rear light housing to the frame which gave me taillights but still trying to figure out the marker lights and turn signals. Ive replaced both the turn signal switch and the headlight switch and still nothing. Hopefully I figure it out soon but I dont think this old bitch likes all the new parts I'm putting in/on her.
Shuffle random thoughts I don't know if you got this answer or not but for some reason my thought went to lift the brake pedal see if your brake pedal is engaging it that's my only thought on it cuz I've had a wiring issue like that before and I so wanted to just have a Power Probe Chef through my ear cuz that buzzing is driving me insane
@@Pickuptrucktalk well I once had a square body that every time I hit the brake I blew a fuse and I have found that somebody had ran the wire over the exhaust and there every time I hit the brake I grounded the tail light
@@gearhead9943 Alright. It is supposed to warm up through next week. Let me wait for it to cool down again. Then, I'll do it. It is a pretty tough thing to get him going when it is below freezing.
Pickup Truck Plus SUV Talk can’t wait! Would be cool to see how it starts under both conditions. I love carbureted engine startups - such a lost art of song and dance with chokes and gas pedal work
You need to hook the system up on a workbench. Take everything off the truck and lay it out on the bench with the battery. So you would have the system hooked to the battery and hook up each piece one at a time in the sequence for your equipment. Makes it quick and easy to troubleshoot each piece of the puzzle. All within arms reach. Take all the hardware and get wire for positive and negative and blink left and blink right and tail lights and run lights. I suspect one of your new pieces is hooked up wrong or bad. It is real easy to chase when everything is in a 2-3 foot radius. This will help you find a wire fault, if the wiring harness is faulty.......it is 58 years old you know.
