It nice to bring them back to life too. I did a whole series of videos on the tune up of classic OMC outboards. I believe it is 18 videos and I went through my 1959 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp electric start. Thanks for watching!
Congratulations on your new motor! They're great little kickers. Go through all the basics and you should have a motor that will reliably take you fishing for many years to come. Good luck with it and thanks for watching!
It is a very nice little engine. I like the looks of the '65 Evinrudes. I have a 6hp Fisherman. It was one of my early additions to my collection. I should go through it again. I have improved some of my techniques since then and can probably make it run better than it does. It does well, but the idle could be better. Thanks for watching!
When you put your hand down by the water pump jet what are you looking for to see the water pump is working? On mine I was expecting it to be a steady stream of water coming out, but it just spits and sputters. I'm worried that it's not working properly. I have the 1966 folding kind with 6 holes.
Yes, I was checking for water pump function. Your motor does not put out a steady stream of water like a tell tale stream on a later model motor. These just spray a heavy mist out of the six exhaust relief holes. As long as yours is doing that and not running too hot, your pu.p is working as intended. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks! I actually brought it out for the first time yesterday without any issues. A little bit of a learning curve with the high and low carb knobs, but I got the hang of it.
It does run pretty strong. It seems to have pretty low hours and light use. I use about 8 ounces of Simple Green (the aluminum-safe aircraft type is reccomended) in my 3L cleaner. If you do not use the aircraft type Simple Green, it will etch the aluminum and discolor it. I have used it though. Limit the time in the bath to about 20 minutes if you use the regular stuff, then rinse it off well amd blow it out with compressed air. Thanks for watching, Don!
Nice little engine you have there!. I have a 1965, model 3502. I have only had it a week and find it a really interesting little engine, I was very surprised that I can still get lots of parts for it even in the uk
Thank you. These are great little motors. I'm glad you are able to get parts in the UK. We have to keep.these classics alive and running. Thanks for watching!
@@glockeva1 Good compression for a 3hp OMC of this vintage is anything above 90psi. They'll still run on about 65psi but idle will usually fall off and top end power will not be what it should be. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks for the information, I think my compression tester gauge is incorrect, on my new yamaha outboard my friends tester was reading 116psi but my gauge was only reading 45psi! The hoses are new and do not leak so can only assume that it's the gauge that is at fault With my setup the evinrude 3hp was not even moving my gauge at all but with fresh fuel and oil mix it fired up with a battery drill. Do you know if oversized pistons or rings are available for the 3hp?, I would be happy to invest the money to get it running. Finally do you know the hole size of the primary jet?, mine appears to be approximately 1mm in size and I think that it has been drilled out to this size. Thanks for your help!!
@@glockeva1 I would say your compression gauge is definitely not accurate. OS pistons and rings are going to be pretty difficult to find for your engine. There may still be some around, but no newly manufactured OS pistons or rings around that I am aware of for these 3hp motors. The high speed main jet (orifice plug) should have a orifice diameter of 0.029" for this motor. The jets are still available new if you need to replace yours. If someone drilled it out oversized, it will not run properly.
Value depends greatly on condition and your geographic location. In my area, these motors in average cosmetic condition, mechanically sound and not running will often sell for between $50 and $80. Better cosmetic condition will sometimes mean more value and the really nice ones always sell considerably higher. In average condition with a fresh tune up and running perfectly they may sell for between $150-$300 on the high side with better cosmetics. Folders bring more money, but the non folders are really better suited to regular use. They're wonderful little fishing motors for small lakes. You would really need to check your local market to see what comparable motors are selling for in your area. Thanks for watching!
@@theprovoked321 Thank you. If you don't know when it was last run, check for spark first. Check the fuel tank to see if it is clean or if it was left with fuel in it. I'd also recommend taking a look inside the carburetor to make sure it isn't full of varnish and old oil. The impeller will probably need to be replaced, but start it with the lower unit submerged so it doesn't burn up the water pump impeller in case it is still working OK. Good luck with your motor!
Hi David. I really don't care to deal with shipping. I'm not sure where you are located or which meets you attend. I tried to look you up on the AOMCI.ORG club membership roster, but could not find you on the list. Thanks for watching!
Nice little motor, great for the fisherman. I heard you mention you sonic cleaner, what do you use in it JR? I have tried umpteen solutions trying to find something that works and don't stink to bad. My carbs were turning white or have white blotches in everything I tried. I think it happens if it is to hot. I wanted it hot to remove crud but I think it is the heat doing it....maybe.
I really like these little 3s when I find them that are not worn out. They run beautifully and they're a joy to work on. I am using water and Simple Green solution. The aluminum safe Simple Green Aircraft is what I should be using. I am still using the regular stuff though. I find that about 25 minutes is the limit. Any more than that and it will start to etch, discolor, and oxidize the aluminum. I need to get some of the Aircraft version and give that a try. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Ok I will give the simple green a try. I never go past the one 20 minute cycle BUT I have been turning the heater on for an hour first. To hot I think. Turns some carbs white or blotchy white.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Yeah, I was working on a B&S carb and used pine sol in my electrosonic cleaner, probably ran it through too many cycles. The steel carb bowl turned a strange color and I feel it will rust now...
I've noticed that there's a company called Lehr that makes propane engines, have you ever had to work on one of those other than Evinrude and Johnson before or are they an endless money pit to fix ?
I have seen the Lehr propane outboards. I don't know anything about them. I work on mostly OMC motors with an occasional other brand. Pretty much no four strokes at all. I have never run nor worked on a Lehr. I would certainly want to do some research on them before I spent a bunch of money on one. Thanks for watching!
I have the same engine but I think mine is older it will run good for about 5-10 minutes then dies and has to cool down for 20 minutes before I can restart it why and help would be appreciated
When was the last time the water pump impeller was replaced? If you don't know, then I would start there. It may be overheating because it isn't getting enough cooling water. The fuel filter inside the tank on the shutoff valve could be partially clogged with varnish and dried fuel as well. That can cause fuel flow to be too slow to keep up with the demand to keep it running. I would check those two things first, in the order I listed them. Thanks for watching!
I buy many of my parts from Marineengine.com. There are a number of other online sources as well. Your local Mercury dealer should also be able to get parts. Thanks for watching!
Like the 65, nice motor.can you reach out to me fairly new member of the AOMCI and have a couple of OMC ????? As all of your fan club does.thanks again for sharing sir.
Not on this motor. I never had it long enough to run it on a boat. These 3hp motors will typically push a 12-14 foot boat at 3-5mph with just me in the boat. Thanks for watching!
Yes, midway down the shaft. The exhaust relief holes will spray a heavy water mist when the engine is running. There is no actual telltale on this motor. The mist from.the relief holes is it. Thanks for watching!
I buy a lot of my parts from Marineengine.com. Vintageoutboard.com, iBoats, and Crowley Marine are a few others. There is also Ebay for some things, and local classifieds sometimes turn up junk motors that can be broken down for parts. It just depends on what parts you are looking for. Thanks for watching!
@@montanahelp2169 I hope to do just that this year. I bought a 17 foot Alumacraft flat back canoe last fall and am looking forward to getting it on the water some this year. I have not been in a canoe in a lot of years and have never run an outboard on one, so it should be an interesting learning experience. Thanks for watching!
They're great little motors. They certainly are not as fuel efficient as a comparable HP motor twenty years newer and if they're run at full throttle all the time the consumption is significant. They really do pretty well if they're run at trolling speed or a little more. They'll run a long time on a tank of fuel like that. Thanks for watching!
Hi, I just acquired this exact motor ( 1965 Evinrude Lightwin model 2502A 3hp) It has been sitting and would like to know proper starting procedure(s), idle screw setting (how many turns out for first start) I have read numerous opinions about fuel/oil mix ratio (32:1, 50:1 ?) your opinion? Where I can find service/maintenance info to watch or print out, etc. ANY help would be greatly appreciated. TY
Congratulations on your new motor. For the first start after extended sitting I would begin by pulling the spark plugs and spraying some fogging oil into the cylinders. If no fogging oil, some 2-stroke oil will suffice. Turn the engine over several times to distribute the oil. It may be advisable to replace the water pump impeller as well. They will take a set after sitting a long time and not pump efficiently. The vanes can break off an old impeller too and the pieces can go downstream and plug up the cooling system. The initial carb mixture needle setting for the low speed should be 1 to 1.5 turs out. This will be on the rich side, but it should be dialed in after the engine is up to temperature while on a boat for best results. As for fuel mix ratio, the motor has instructions for 50:1 on it, I believe. I actually recommend sticking with 24:1 for these motors since the powerhead has no rolling bearings in it. Being this is a fixed high speed carburetor, I don't necessarily recommend more oil than 24:1 mix since the additional oil does have the effect of leaning out the fuel air mix as well. I don't think 16:1 would cause a lean running condition, but 24:1 is a good compromise. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Hey, Thanks for the quick reply and input. I have an impeller on order. In testing, I discovered the top cylinder (#1?) gets no spark, whereas the lower (#2?) sparks good. Can you do a vid on troubleshooting/replacing wire(s) - tune up. Or walk me through accessing the wires and testing them? I am willing to pay you for your knowledge/help. (a manual will cost me more than I have in the motor... lol) Give me an address and an amount and I'll gladly send you a USPS money order, or your paypal account info and I'll use plastic. No real hurry, as we're having snow squalls here in NH today. Thanks Vern
Yup. It's a weird thing with the 3hps. In 1963 they went to a fixed high speed carb on the 3hp. In 1968, they went to the fiberglass cover and remote tank only for the last year of the 3hp and brought back the adjustable high speed needle. The adjustable high speed stayed on the 4hp in 69 and continued into the 1970s when all the other motors had moved to fixed high speed. Thanks for watching!
@@theeasybeats5913 They started porting them for fuel pumps in 1963. They put a.plug screw in the pulse port on the ones that were built without a fuel pump. They sold a conversion kit to add the pump and fitting for the remote tank. What kind of issues do you have with yours when using the fuel pump?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I always run all the gas out of the carb on my engines I thought it was doing that then found out with the exterior pump it wasn't other than that it was been pretty good
