Replacing the rear valance on this 1965 Mustang. Painting a new one with Nason Ful Acryl II 2k acrylic enamel single stage paint. Cutting and welding the bumper brackets for a better fit
Pete is the most well-rounded jack of all trades car guy on RU-vid! Maybe in the world! Leave me a reply if you also think Pete has some serious skills! He is a craftsman!
Acrylic Enamel paint is highly under-rated. It is a great option for a DIY paint repair like this. It doesn’t have the gloss of a urethane, but that’s not really a bad thing. A super shiny paint repair can really stand out in a bad way. A trick my grandfather showed me, which comes from the old days of spraying lacquer, but works just as well on Acrylic Enamel, is to spray it down with straight thinner just as the paint is starting to flash. If timed right, the thinner will “melt” the surface of the paint and lay it flat eliminating 90% of your orange peel. I love repairs and videos like this. Nicely done! Thanks for posting!
Tough going behind somebody else's "Body Work" … But having a good paint supplier who can "shoot" the color from years past and match it is nice work on their part. Job looks nice. I'd comment to the paint supplier that they did their job also. Alabama boy says both parties did well. Love the guitars and amps..... Thumbs up!
Pete, just found your u-tube channel and immediately subscribed, I too acquired a 65' mustang coupe from a neighbor, great condition with 200 inline 6, and really want to improve engine performance, as a warm-up to a 67 Bronco body off restoration (in storage now - waiting for me) got the mustang running after 12 years in storage, with a full fuel system replacement, & outsourced carb rebuild and full ignition update. Starts and runs fine now, but don't trust for rides longer that around the block. Engine (86k on speedo, California car), runs rough, lifter noise and no power. My plan is to upgrade the brakes, steering and suspension, then body paint, but first want to pull the 6 cylinder and recondition engine bay. So your planned rebuild is very timely for me. I have a home shop, two-post lift, gantry, shop TV (u-tube) and pretty set for this engine rebuild project - but admit - I'm a first timer on engine rebuilds - so will follow you closely. FYI, just completed the mustangs cylinder compression and leak down, and got 130-140 psi compression with warm engine. Leak down ranged from 55-68% so moderate, but definitely a consistent air leak into the valve cover - lifter seals at least. willing to go further, and temped to upgrade the head, intake and exhaust manifolds for a better air exchange. One request to you Pete - please number your engine rebuild session for easy connection. thanks for doing this - can wait to start. when do you start? FYI - jeffbrillsmail@gmail.com for contact. Jeff
Thanks very much Jeff. If the engine in the car is not original you may consider buying a rebuilt one. There are a couple places that sell excellent rebuilt straight 6's for less the you can rebuild them yourself. If all goes well I would start this fall.
Thank you for the video. Great car Mustang reminds of the genius of Henry Ford in designing the 1932 v8 having his designers almost isolated on Edison village, Thank God Ford had his wife stopping from many evils.
Hey Pete, Truely enjoy your insight and solutions. I was wondering about all the overspray. It appears as though you keep a tidy garage. Do you have some kind of evac system? Do you make a temporary spray booth from plastic sheeting?
On the two outer screws of the valance that penetrate into the trunk space. Mine seem to leak water into the trunk of my 69. Should there be seen sealer on those or maybe just some sealant on the threads before putting them in?
Hey Pete maybe u can help.. my 66 didn't have rear bumper guards so I bought some and they fit terrible.. they're not flush at all with valance.. what am I doing wrong ????
@@PetesGarage Thank u.. I bent them and they are fitting better ..I could probably bend them some more but didn't want to overdo them.. thanks for your help