Now that we took care of the transmission, let's see if the clutch slave is in the correct position and if we are using the entire stroke of the piston.
just watched your videos ,,really interesting ,my triumph dolomite was a lovely car ,,but why oh why they designed the gear box to be removed inside the car ,was a massive mistake ,,but one wonderful thing i discovered was that landrover carburetor parts fitted it nicely ,,and how i found that out was because i worked at landrover and was forever being stopped by security ,and they told me the reason why after i had complained,,by the way i would have thought that you might have used suds while your were machining ,,,thanks for the great videos ,,,
I saw the smoke in your earlier video... and it reminded me of the day I sold my TR6 in 1975 ...smoke came out of the blinker on the test drive ....the girl wanted it so bad she didn't tell her father who was buying it for her :-))
Resting the rear end plate of the engine on a board greatly helps in re-installing the transmission. The bellhousing sits on the board and is slid upto the engine with no strain on the transmission input shaft or muscle work by the installer.
Try putting in a Spitfire transmission with a cast iron bellhousing and an overdrive, on a car with a concours paint job and a full leather interior, with hardtop, on your own, in 100 degree weather, at the side of the road! (10 hours)
Good job, but oil leaks are always a problem and a challenge, changing gaskets and cleaning up the mess. Tightening the bolts can make the leaks worse, but a great looking car all the same.
Oh, believe me, this car is being driven all summer long. I awake her from hibernation as soon as there is no more salt on the roads in the spring and she is my daily driver till late fall.
The Middle East Oil producers got very rich on the leaks of old British sports cars :) . You can replace seals all you want but it will still leak (Triumph motorcycles are worse !).
Moving the cylinder and extending the rod do nothing to the throw of the hydraulics. That is determined by bore size and throw of the master cylinder. You just need to center the rod end in the slave and make sure it can't extend the piston too far. I see that all the time on TR6's and it is pointless. You fixed it with your excellent job repairing the slop in the linkage in the bell housing.
I don't think so. Think about it, when the piston is all the way out it is approximately .800" from the mounting surface of the slave. When it is fully pressed in, it is at 2.1" i.e. we have a throw of about 1.3" However with the pin being too short we had a throw from 1.7 - 1.8 to .800 or only an inch. So we are pressing the fork in only 1 inch. When I extended the pin by .200 the throw started from 2" to .800 this means now we have a 1.2" movement on the fork. Of course the length of the rod makes a difference fo how deep the throwout bearing goes into the clutch plate fingers. Yes, it doesn't change the throw of the hydraulics, it only makes the entire throw useable instead of just part of it.
@@RustyBeauties The spring presses the cylinder back in every time you let off. You start from the same place. It takes a while to get your head around it.
I tend to agree with James Franks, the problem with your car was almost certainly the throwout lever fulcrum pin, you may also have wear at the connection with the master cyl push rod and the end of the clutch pedal. Over years the hole in the end of the pedal lever gets elongated and some clutch pedal motion is lost. Another cause can be very worn and dropped crankshaft thrust washers. This is serious if not addressed quickly. I have seen owners who have made additions to the slave actuation rod as you have, but it is always a bodge that hides another problem.
I had this problem before as I said in my video. At that time I took care of the connection between the pedal and the master. The fulcrum pin at that time was not that worn and I still had that problem with the length of the pin and I solved it by grinding the slot for the bolt in the slave, but that was not the right thing to do, because the amount of play on the fork was still huge. Now that I stabilized the fulcrum I still had a lot of pay and I needed to reduce it. Obviously my pin is not long enough, because this has been a problem since I got the car with a different engine. Maybe the previous owner did something like the valve stem pin or the rear shocks from a mini that were causing the rear axles to grind the frame. And I disagree that the length on the pin doesn't matter. Think about it as if you are trying to reach the ceiling with your hand. Unless you are 6.10" it would be impossible. But if you have a short stick you will be able to reach it but maybe not push on it. With a longer stick you will be actually able to push hard on it. And all that is with the same amount of throw on your arm. The play on the crank was checked and it is within tolerance. I am sure the pin or the entire fork were modified or came from a different car model.
@@RustyBeauties Where you are thinking wrong is that , in your person pushing on the ceiling analogy, the person in this case is always standing the same distance from the ceiling since the T.O. bearing is always the same distance from the clutch fingers after retraction. The slave throw is controlled by the ratios in the hydraulics between master and slave. Period. Because the linkage was sloppy, the person was pushing on a rope instead of a stick. You fixed it by taking the slop out of the linkage. Nice job on that!
stereo signal to the amplifier (between the rear wall and the gas tank), the return amplified audio to the front speakers and a trigger for the amplifier from the radio. I know it is not a proper audio cable, but it saves me so much room, instead of running a whole bunch of wires from front to back of the car, I just ran this one and a power for the amplifier.
@@groundpltful the front ones are on the sidewall of the footwell, just above the inner sill. The rear ones are beside the gas tank behind the rear wall. They sound a little muffled, but I'd rather sacrifice some sound quality (especially in this noisy car) than cutting out openings in the rear wall/card. Oh, and I have a sub in the trunk :)
@@RustyBeauties thanks for getting back to me, i had thought about doing a sub as well, and i agree, making holes in the back panel wouldn't look very good. Keep up the good work.
Yes, the timing chain rattles for a few seconds while the oil pressure builds up. It's been a problem for a while. I even doubled up the tensioner and it was OK for a short time, but it started doing it again. I think it is time for a new chain.
I too was a bit alarmed by that clatter and the length of time it lasted in a previous video. Are you sure it is the timing chain? The tensioner is just a spring, it should not depend on oil pressure. Are you using an oil filter that is fitted with an Anti drainback valve?
Yes, I am sure it is the timing chain and no I am not using an anti drain back valve. I guess I should install one, because she is definitely lacking oil for the first few seconds and probably that is what kills my chain. I once bodged it by doubling up the tensioner, but at that time the chain was already very lose just after one season of driving after rebuilding the engine. It solved the problem for a while, but I guess the chain is now even loser so.. I guess I will have to take care of that lack of oil problem, not just deal with the results from that.
@@RustyBeauties The easy way to get the right oil filter with an ADBV is to buy a filter for an 88 4cyl Toyota pick up (this is a common filter used by many other cars also) this is assuming you have the Wix adaptor that almost aĺl Spitfires do by now.
