1966 Triumph GT6 - Part 56 - Bulkhead/Shelf Repair 

More amazing patchwork! That car really deserves the Swiss Cheese Award! Your work is always brilliant and your videos are perfect. Thanks for all of the efforts!

Most viewers probably don't realize that filming your progress for RU-vid, triples the time it takes to complete your work. Setting up cameras and lighting, Editing, Uploading, Adding Video details. You do a great job and we all appreciate your efforts and content! Cheers! Mike

Brilliant work Elin.. Looking forward to seeing the bulkhead completed and restored to it's former glory.

a little more solid? I think you perfected the understatement of the year!!! - Looks amazing - Elin's Rusty Beauties, how to make tough stuff seem easy...

You’re a clever, clever bloke, Elin! And your bodywork videos are more interesting than your mechanical ones.

Great close-ups of those rear seals. So timely that you put this up as I'm about to tackle the job. I've had seals (no window seals) from TRF sitting around for ~ 4yrs and it's about time I installed them. I removed the front top seal with a heat gun- it had turned to plastic. Proud of myself for getting it off, but I saw you use a heat gun for something similar in the past, and it worked for me as well!

Great video, looks a really solid bulkhead now!! Glad you were able to save the world in time!! Good luck from Spain!!

These are my favorite videos where you remove the rust and install patches. Good job Elin!

I’m so glad the safety of the world is in your hands. I sleep better for that. That bit made me laugh so hard! Thanks 😂

Elin, the “patches” you made for the drivers side were absolutely amazing. Your skills are continuing to improve. 🎅

Great video thank you Elin

Looking really great.

You caught Rusty having fun. He almost look guilty. 🎅

Awesome work!!!!!

Good job ! Bravo Zoom zoom 😀

Elin, I am going back some 60 + years, but there used to be a socket and fittings for bulkhead screws etc and sized "OBA" we used them a lot when removing panels and tin ware around scuttles and inner splash panels They were an odd size which were neither British Standard Whitworth or BA.. I have not seen them since the 60's or so.

Windscreen wiper nuts 1/2” whitworth !!!! Regards Sandy 🔧🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Hi Elin, when you get to refitting the wiring, I can give you a hand if you want. I'm just finishing off repairing all the dodgy wiring in my Spitfire. So I pretty much know the circuit by heart, and I also have an electronic background.

the roll pin may only come out one way if the hole in the shaft is tapered. Found that out when I replaced the drive shaft on a 1971 snow blower

We can add "Crisis management" to your skill set Elin

Phenomenal video I mean phenomenal I learn so much every time I watch your videos all these are invaluable tutorials to me thank you so much Elin!! For a minor correction WD-40 is a silicon spray best suited for electronics. The W and the D stand for water displacement. Some people like to use the compound called krill it’s a penetrant, blaster you can get at O’Reilly‘s or wherever, LPS. My personal favorite is called Mouse Milk, you can order Mouse Milk online I found that to be the most effective penetrant on virtually any stubborn Bolt that I have experience to date! I’m very much looking forward to the next video and tutorial! Into anyone else reading this if you haven’t subscribed to his channel and signed him up on Patreon do yourself a major favor and contribute we need to keep his work going!! I’m just a guy looking at his videos like you, I am NOT A “shill”! Thank you again, Elin

Elin I’m quite exhausted after doing all that repair work on the bulkhead (vicariously of course!) but really pleased and very proud with the outcome! Today is going to be a good day. Live long and prosper buddy ✌️

For removing underbody coatings or these rubber protections i have found this tool very useful especially when the coating is thick and old --> Hazet 822 Angle Scraper Works very good and does not make a huge mess like with a wire wheel

Very good job, y love a work. A little Frenchy.

Nice!

The wiper motor bodge is because they are using a spd Mk2-Mk3 wiper motor, rather than the Mk1 wiper motor.

Good work! One thing though... Where are your safety glasses? Especially when doing the grinding? I learned the hard way. A tiny metal splinter in my eye! Hurt like crazy, but could have been worse... I was very lucky it didn't effect my vision. Regarding the roll pin in the throttle linkage... Have you tried pushing it out the opposite direction? Maybe the hole is tapered? Our old TRs sure like to rot out under the battery, don't they? I had a similar repair to my TR4's battery shelf. Previous owner fiberglassed something on there... Pretty lousy job of it. I replaced with sheet aluminum initially, finally came back and did a proper repair on it later. Under the master cylinders is another common rust spot. Hydraulic fluid leaks, lifts the paint, then the tin worm gets busy! Same thing happened under my TR4's brake master cylinder while it was in storage... First through the bulk head, then through the floor underneath!

I think the windscreen wiper nuts are whitwortj !🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿

Like some other people here I was going to suggest using heat and then trying to push the pin out from the opposite direction. Seems to me that might work

I use a homemade penetrant that is better than WD40. 50% Acetone and 50% ATF, cheap and works great. The only problem is having a spray bottle that the Acetone doesn't attack.

The surgeon has removed the cancer and replaced it with healthy tissue. Satisfying to watch.

Great job.!

The first few minutes of this video remind me of my experience with The Beast... try this, no progress, try that, no progress, try this other thing, spinning bolts, lol

So is this little car going to be your ride? w e hope it was gifted to you, such a project!

Are you sure the accelerator linkage pin isn’t driven in from the top so has to be driven out from the bottom.

Love watching your series... its really one of the best real world restoration series on youtube... wanted to ask you what that long chisel scraper tool is you are using to remove spot welds, at 9:36 you can see it resting on the bulkhead?

does the pin go out the other way? i usually try it anyways if it seems to get tighter...

That piano piece was beautiful. Can you share the name of it... and maybe a link.

Did you weld the small seam under the patch? Still there at 31:00 then you welded in the big patch?

So how did you get the linkeage off?? I was about to suggest heating it to red to soften it, but I saw that it was gone! Looks really good Elin.

Elin, I have a 69 TR6 with a Stromberg 175 CD-2. The normal tool does not work to adjust the richness/lean. Do you know which tool I need? I can't find any info anywhere.

First!