Thanks... I'm designing a Leading arm suspension for m'y reverse trike using most of all the original suspension system of the VW beelte. Your video certainly help. 👍
This is such a great video. I've just purchased a standard width adjustable beam for my 67 but now I've seen this I'm going to have a go at altering my original. Have you done a video on flipped spindles? Thanks again and greetings from Scotland!
It is ALOT of work and the work has to come out accurate and professional looking. Hence , im going to say $1500 for very nice and precise work is actually reasonable, in my opinion.
Hey Rod, thanks for the great information! I have a question for you! I’m in the process of doing the same mod with the adjusters but my goal is to raise my front axle assembly roughly 2’’ on a 1970 bay . When raising , I can tell the arms will move down and hit my bump stop. My question is will removing my bump stops affect anything? And would you recomend welding them back once the suspension or leaf pack is preloaded? Thank you in advance !
The bump stop is a up or down limiter, I always had cut mines off and I had left them off! But I don’t think it will hurt if you weld them back on, depending on what type of driving you will be doing (off-road, etc)
Bro I like your video thanks so much for your time and very specific video too quick question I have. 69 bay and I’m gonna do the same thing I’m going to narrow my bay beam and the question is if I can use the same plates like your beam or it has to be specific for 68/70???? And ones again very helpful to now I feel more secure with your help
I found this answers in the Samba! 69 and later are different patterns! it is possible, but you will need a '68 bay beam, the later bay beams have a different bolt pattern so they will not easily fit i have seen a modified botched conversion of a late beam onto a split bus, an i wouldn't even consider it for a minute i have a'68 bay beam on mine, you will have to efectivly lower the suspension just to kepp the ride height the same as bays were higher than splits if you intend on slamming your bus you might well be best off looking for another king pin beam or just get your kingpins rebuilt as the bays were higher already, the extra you'd need to lower the bus, can put to much stress on your balljoints, i've heard it can knock them out real quick
Sorry to be a pain, but I'm not sure on slot position..im not using drop spindles so on the original factory whole do I cut out towards the ground to lower..thanks Michael.
Hey rod !! I’m building my first beam and I watched your videos a couple times in the case that I’m building a beam for 63 and later you said I could takeoff that sleeve on the trailing arms to fit better in those urethane bushings, how would I takeoff that sleeve?
Yes if you have the sleeves cut them with a grinder without scoring the arms and wack them out, if you remove the sleeves you would have to buy the early urethane bushings! Personally I don’t like the later bushings they are too thin.
@@stevemeyers7176 yep easy, what happens when you flip spindles you loose the caster which gives you your tracking and steering recentre, by tilting the beam back you get some of it back. By Elongating the holes on the mounting plates you get it back👍🏽
Hi i wanted to ask if it necessary for me to put the drop plates or i can just put the adjusters only ? Or what will be the disadvantage if i dont also put the drop plates ?
