You have the best of both worlds...the performance of a big block, but because it's aluminum you get the handling of a small block with the weight savings. Awesome combination!
I just recently finished my project car about 6 months ago and I sort of miss working on it. It's a 1968 Pontiac Firebird with an m20 mated currently to a 326. It was a two and a half year project but, I really enjoyed working on it with my dad and learning about the car and the general era of GM cars. That's a beautiful car! I find it really cool that you guys drove it before the restoration progress. We started my car with the entire front clip disassembled so I was never able to drive it. Good luck and enjoy your project!
+C Genious funny i have a ford truck that's 41 years old and runs great and a mustang that's 47 years old with the motor out of it that still runs so i think you're just simple
If that car was on the northeast coast like Maryland and points north, it would've rusted into a dust pile sitting 28 years outside. It definetely would not have survived. Nice find I hope you guys are having a blast with it!
All small block Chevy's had a 4.00 inch bore. If it's larger than that it has been bored oversize. Check the stroke on the engine and see if it's exactly 3.00 inches. The 302 has a 4.00 inch bore and a 3.00 inch stroke. The 327 has a 3.25 inch stroke. Also check the crank journals. The 67 and 68 302 blocks had two bolt mains. The 69 302 was the first year with four bolt mains. Also check the heads. All of the 1969 engines used head casting number 3927186 and featured the large 2.02" intake and 1.60" exhaust valves of the earlier heads. The 1969 heads also have holes drilled and tapped in the ends due to a change in the alternator mounting method. All of the 302 cylinder heads, regardless of casting number, had the same characteristics. Large port volumes and large valves were used to facilitate breathing at high rpm, at the expense of low to mid-range efficiency.
A new subscriber and very excited to see the Camaro build. The time and effort you guys are putting into this is proper. I hope you put a proper big block back into the car. It would be amazing to see you guys make it into a modern Super Muscle Car!!!!!
LOL, it's going straight to a body off restoration when I retire in a few years and then going to my son. You aren't the only one who wants to buy it :)
I guess there are 2 identical twins in the 1969 Z/28 world. I have a DZ 302 with 8568 original miles that is also going to my son when I retire in 4 years. I have owned it for 45 years, LeMans blue/ white stripes.
Amazing coincidence. Your car is far more valuable than mine. Mine was driven a lot and pretty hard. I got it when I was 16 and drove the hell out of it and did more than a few 1/4 mile races. It will probably cost me 50K to get it back to very nice again.
Someone far wiser than I at the time, told me to put it away, or we were not destined to survive. I bought a 1974 Z-1 903 Kawasaki and really tested my survival skills.. Still have that one also.
This is TJ’s car. Sat behind our company’s shop corroding into the ground for years! It had a DZ 302, not a big block though. He wouldn’t sell it for years, said he’d get around to restoring it someday!
I can't believe that the car wasn't covered for all those years of neglect. Why on earth would anyone let a special factory camaro just rust out like that. Some people just have no common sense...
+kevin S Yeah I agree. How dumb. At least throw a tarp over it for God's sake. Even if you don't have a shed to store it you can minimize the environmental degradation. Throw down some marine plywood on the ground and put the car up on axle stands and cover with a solid tarp. That should contain it for years.
Wow I just noticed this video is from 2 years ago. How come you guys have not continued building the car and filming the progress. You would have gained a shit load of subscribers to see that happen. If you can you should continue the build.
Cracked blocks are rarely fixable, JB weld is a temporary fix if it works at all, the ol 327 sounded good for being hurt tho , that big motor will make it a handful drive, when ya get it done and buy tires ,get 2 extra back ones you're gonna need em. nice to see it's gonna get a new life 69's are about as cool as a camaro gets, I like all 67 to 73's ,Good luck to everyone on the project.
Hey matthew20061 why haven't their been more VIDEOS since this one????? People really love these kind of how to and follow along progress stuff. You should seriously continue to do these.
People keep commenting about a Z/28. It's not a Z/28. someone put a cowl hood and emblems on it. The easiest way to tell if this car came with a big block is to look at the heater Box on the firewall. the heater hoses on a big block came straight out next to the fender. Small blocks came out at a angle more to the center behind the valve cover. This has the big block location. Big block means SS Or COPO, witch I highly doubt anyone would let a COPO get to this condition. The hidden headlights, and backup lights below the bumper. and red lenses all the way across the taillights means RS package. Non RS cars had the backup lights in the taillight housing. This was a SS/RS 396 car. The RS package could be ordered on any Camaro. I seen a 68 RS convertible with a straight six. They ordered the RS package and convertible top on a base model Camaro. I'm guessing that was pretty rare.
1969 Camaros are gorgeous cars. That thing's going to look great once it's finished. I did notice it had "Z/28" badges, which suggests it had the high performance 302 engine in it, originally. Those engines were a 350 block with a 289 crankshaft, high lift cam (possibly solid lifters) and either a single Holley or in some cases, twin Holley four barrel carbs. And of course, the M-22 "Rock Crusher" transmission. If it was me, I'd restore it to Z/28 specs with a road course suspension. But then, I remember the old Penke-Donohue "Sunoco Camaros," so I'm a wee touch biased.
Wow a daytona Yellow RS/SS 396 375 muncie 4spd with endura bumper... single 3/8 fuel line and the deep groove power steering pulley along with the muncie speedometer cable piercings indicate L78.
+KandyonChrome Thanks, hopefully we will get a update video together sooner than later. The passenger side replacement quarter panel is fully installed. The driver side is removed and the new wheel tub half way installed.
Orig.Z/28`s in 67 & 68 Were A 327 Block W/ 283 Crank.Chevy Hadn`t Planned on Racing in TRANS AM Circuit & Regulations Said Cubic Inches Had to be 302 0r 305.First Year or Two, I Believe,So By Using the 283 Crank,Got the Cubic Inches of 327 To 302.
+Greg You got a hell yeah from me. I got bored with these cars in the 80s. When I go to a show there is no shortage of restored Z-28 clones that I walk past. An original car like this should not have been messed with except the FUBAR engine.
2:23 Pretty dented up metal is alot easier to repair than ugly dented up metal. Please correct me if I am wrong. I live in China, and have been studying English for only two months.
#1 if the Z/28 badges are from the factory it came with a 302 cid engine not a big block also someone replied that a 302 was a Ford engine , both Chevy & Ford had 302 engines ,Chevy's were actually 327 blocks with 283 cranks
Damn i really thought you meant it started up after 28 with no work needed. Even tho thats almost impossible, would have been amazing. Anyway amazing rebuild, maybe I'm the only one but I wish they kept the 2nd gen style closer to the 1st.
*the only way this could be any more my dream car is if it was a numbers matching convertible and less rusty. me & the car are the same age, and i LOVE the first and 3rd gens*
