kramden Thank you, Don! This one is in pretty nice cosmetic condition. It's definitely a low-hour motor. I couldn't ask for a better runner. I like the graphics too. I like the graphics on the '66, '68, '70, and '71 Evinrudes of this era the best. Tough for me to pick a favorite out of them. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude I have a ‘66 but it could probably use a new paint job and the shit lever is held on with a metal bracket that the previous owner put on when it broke.
I like the '66 graphics really well. They are great little motors. The broken shift lever is very common with these. That lever design is easily broken of the motor is laid down on the starboard side. The other three of these I have all have the shift levers broken. This one and a '69 Johnson are the two 6hps I have with the shift levers intact. Thanks for watching!
I love the 66 graphics also! I remember the larger engines were available in two colors that year also. And yes, the shift levers are a weak link, and command ridiculous money online. I have started collecting them when I see affordable offerings...
Just bought a 1969 6hp Johnson today (7/16/21). Runs like a swiss watch. Quiet, smooth and tough with needle bearings everywhere on the crank and wrist pins. Fuel miser also. Easy to get to everything. Simple to work on. What more could anybody want from a small motor? 52 years old and better than anything in its size range offered today. I'm thrilled.
That's Excellent, Mike! They're great little motors for sure. They just keep going as long as they're taken care of. Enjoy your motor amd thanks for watching!
I scored a 68 Johnson 6 hp a few days ago from the original owner. He kept this thing TOP SHELF, it does not have a scratch on it and runs like a top, FREE with a 3 gallon metal fuel tank that is equally as nice.
Was just given an Evinrude Fisherman, did a compression test, 90 psi top and bottom, put fresh fuel to it and fired up on the second pull after sitting in a basement for nearly 8 years! Excited to get it on a boat!!!
Just bought a 69 Johnson and a 69 Evinrude. Both are 6 hp. Rebuilt the johnson carb, new gear oil, and replaced the fuel pump and it started up in about 6 pulls. The impeller puts out a lot of water so I may run it awhile before changing it. The previous owner says he changed it then put it away in storage. Runs perfect. The Evinrude needed a new impeller and some fresh gear oil and it too started up easily, and after a warm up it also runs excellent. I have a 14 ft flat bottom aluminum Jon boat waiting for it's new engine. Also have a couple 3 hp Sears GameFisher 2 strokes from the early and mid 90's that I use to power my 10 ft Pelican Bass Raider Pontoon boat with. Ya gotta love these older motors that people sell cheap on face book marketplace and craigslist. The deals are out there if you keep looking. Really nice running motor you have there.
Yep, lots of good old motors out there for reasonable prices if you're willing to put in the work and have the skills to get it done right. Those little 6hp OMCs are great little motors. Not super fast, but they're very reliable and run beautifully. Thanks for watching!
This one definitely cleaned up very nicely. It was pretty greasy and dirty when I bought it, but it looked to be just on the surface. It turned out to be as close to new under the surface as about any motor I have found. Definitely a gem. Thank you and thanks for watching in Australia 🇦🇺!
@@tomcroydonfrommtthomas4719 That's excellent. The 3s are great trolling motors. They run beautifully. Inhave a pair of '62 Johnson 3s. One I a JW (weedless) and the other is a JH (Hi-thrust) right angle drive. I hope to get through them both and run them this year.
I picked up one of these 6 horsepower Evinrude for free. I believe it was a 67 or 68 model. I bought an old Gale Seaking motor from a fellow and his father had the six hp Evinrude that hadn't been used in many years. He called and asked if I wanted it for free. I said hell yes! It came with a good 6 gallon pressure tank so if I ever have the need for the older pressure fuel system I already have a tank. The lubrication for the throttle and Spark Advance mechanisms had turned into glue so I had to remove all of those components and clean them up and put fresh Lube. I gave the points a good cleaning and check the gap. Put an impeller in the water pump even though the old one was pumping just fine. Hooked up the fuel and it started first pull and ran great. It was about as quiet as a sewing machine. I had no need for it so I put an ad to sell it I think for a hundred maybe $150. The guy that bought it was ecstatic.
Very cool! They are wonderful little motors. I'd have been happy to have one that looks decent and runs well for $150. I bet the giu was stoked to get it. Great to have a good pressure tank too. I like the old pressure tank motors. Thanks for watching !
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I love the simplicity of the old OMC outboards. That makes them very reliable and easy to repair / maintain. Parts are pretty reasonable as well as they made so many of those Motors that you can get good used parts if new parts are not available. I stayed away from the Chrysler Motors after having been burned pretty badly on a105 horsepower motor when I was younger. It wound up developing a crack in the engine block where the distributor mounts and the Magna power ignition module failed on me twice. I do have a 25 horsepower Sea King made by Chrysler from 1975 that seems to be pretty well put together and has the Magneto ignition which is probably ultimately more reliable then the Magna power ignition. I understand people either hate the Chryslers or they love them. I wanted to ask you about the noise level of the eska built air-cooled Motors versus Clinton air-cooled Motors. I understand from some of your videos that you don't mess around too much with the air-cooled Motors. It seems to me from the videos that I have seen that the Clinton Motors are substantially quieter then the eska built Motors. That could be just a result of the recording but it seems to be a recurring theme that the Clinton Motors are quieter. I see these air-cooled Motors advertised sometimes very cheap and the OMCI meet that I went to they were giving them away and probably for good reason but it's something I would consider tinkering with if I could get it on the cheap. What are your thoughts about the noise level? I enjoy watching your videos but you need a bigger pond.
That’s a clean one! Always amazing motors you seem to come by. Just got the carb rebuilt on my ‘68 Mercury 110 if you wanted to check it out. You’ve been a huge help back when I was trying to source nuts for the lower unit and such. Now the only issue I’m getting it fuel leaking out the side of the fuel pump when I prime the bulb(once it’s already full) I’m sure you’re not supposed to keep priming it but I didn’t imagine it would leak once full, then primed again. Doesn’t seem to leak at rest, only pressurized when the carb bowl is already full Stay safe out there!
billrok Yes, you can tell when they have really low hours. Everything is just more solid. As you said, smooth, very little rattle, great run quality, etc. Good cosmetics and lack of wrench marks and no paint chipped off bolt heads is something to look for too. That can also mean that it was simply never maintained as well, so that one has to be used in conjunction with other factors. Thanks for watching Bill!
Any idea what happened to it to make it stop running? If it didn't overheat and ge damaged, it probably just needs a carburetor and ignition tune up and probably a water pump impeller to be a good runner again. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude we actually ended up trading it in for a mechanic to restore, he said it was a potential project of his. We were having trouble with the compression and the carburetor. We did maintain it for a while before that.
Old JohnnyRude I really enjoy your videos! Funny enough we currently have a friend working on our 8hp 2005 Johnson, which has an assortment of issues related to the crankshaft and driveshaft (as I've been told).
@@Logo800 I'm always glad to hear when someone enjoys my videos. Hopefully your 8 horse Johnson turns out OK. What kind of issue is it? Is the drive shaft / crankshaft spline messed up? If they are not kept greased and sealed from water, they can get stuck together or rust damaged. Just curious. Good luck with it.
i've got a 79' (the only model with the cd ignition... not that its any better than the points system) and a 1970. both run perfect. message me if you want to make an offer!
Thank you. I also have a 68 and a 65. All are good runners, but this one has the least amount of hours on it by far. It's a great runner. Thanks for watching!
What a great score. With modern oils and good maintenance it will last forever in careful hands. I just found a similar vintage 6hp, it's pristine but but with no powerhead, so I'm fitting it with a 2kW brushless electric, but also preserving everything to pre conversion state just in case I find a donor motor, it's unlikely, but worth saving anyway.
Thank you. I am very pleased with this find. It is a wonderful little motor in excellent shape. It will certainly run a very long time with good care and modern TCW3 oil. It seems odd that your motor was missing the powerhead but was still in such nice condition otherwise. It should be a neat motor with the electric conversion. Its great that you are keeping everything so it can be put pack to factory stock if you are able to locate a powerhead. 6hp OMC donors / powerheads are not at all uncommon around here. I don't know how plentiful they are where you are located. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I have collected small outboards for many years, but they are getting rare around here. I got this one from a local refuse recycling centre, and had no history behind it, but to add to the strangeness it was fitted with a brand new propeller, but with no shear pin.. my guess is it was a deceased estate clearout, and the power head was probably removed to check the drive shaft, the prop probably had a hard strike and been damaged and then partly replaced.. at least the gearbox is still good. Cheers, and subbed.
@@alasdair4161 One thing I have found with collecting these things; you never know what you will come across. Yours is no exception. You're probably on the right track with your thoughts on how this one ended up missing its powerhead. Thanks again for watching and thanks for the sub! I'll try to get a few new videos done over the winter as I work on things. It's a busy time right now but I'll do my best to post some new videos when I get the opportunity.
These are sweet little fishing motors and this one is a gem. Very low hours and in nice condition cosmetically. It has some marks and signs that it was used over the years, but was taken care of. Thanks for watching!
My granddad had one just like this back in the ‘70s. He preferred it over his single-speed Minn Kota for trolling because the Minn Kota was too fast! His buddies used to say that Evinrude had idled a million miles!😂
Yes, this is another really sweet find in my collection. It's almost brand new mechanically and in nice cosmetic condition. It's one of my 6 horse motors that I probably won't part with. Thanks for watching!
Just finish going through a 66 just like this WITH, as you say, broken shift handle AND the aluminum coupler under the powerhead that hooks to the shift rod was broke too. Bought the new coupler but can't find a shift handle or at least one that I don't have to mortgage the house to buy... sooo.... it will be a bicycle handlebar grip.....$5.00. That is a very nice sounding motor!
So many of these have the shift handles broken. It is definitely a weak point on these. I have had a very difficult time finding shift handles for these as well. I found one of them in 5 years of looking that was reasonably priced. I have not decided which motor to use it on yet, but I think it will end up on my 68 when I finally get around to replacing it. This one is in nice cosmetic condition and is nearly perfect mechanically. Thanks for watching!
Now that is an awesome neat motor you got there. I'm about to start on the "reawakening"off my '71 Evinrude 6 HP Fisherman that my great granddad bought new in '71 and it got passed down to my farher and now to me. It is in compleet original and very tidy condition and i've spend many hours on the water with it,luckely maninly fresh water and no salt water.I hope mines will be running as good as yours again in the near future. Thanks for the nive video,sir (:
Thank you and best of luck getting yours back to its former glory. They are great little motors and it will serve you well again for a great many years. Thanks for watching!!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Last week i found out that the lower cilinder isn;t working as well as the bottom one.Compression was spot on and within 5 psi difference. It had a spark,not strong enough to let my timing gun flash so i gor the flywheel off. 2 ingnition coils completly cracked open,but points are looking very good. i'm gonna replace coils,put a tune-up kit in and clean the carb.I hope it will do the job
@@MrMslagter Sounds like your motor is in good mechanical condition. That's great news. Do you know what year your motor is? If your coils were all cracked, they were probably the original ones. The first 6hp was 1965 and those notorious cracking coils had to be going out around that same time I believe. The tune up kit with new points and condensers will be a big help. When you do the ignition, remove the magneto plate completely. Either replace the spark plug wires (recommended) or if yours are still in good shape clip the ends about 3/8" back to expose fresh copper and then replace the wires into the new coils. Clean the contact surfaces of the new points with acetone and a clean cloth to get rid of any oil film before installing them. Best to clean the bare magneto plate off with solvent and re lubricate the rotating surfaces with a little fresh grease. Take pictures of everything so you know how things go together when you replace everything. I always replace the spark plugs with a fresh tune up also. A fresh tube up will work wonders with how your motor runs.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 The motor is a 6102E from"71,built in Brussels in Belgium that my great grandfather bought brand new here in The Netherlands.These outboards were very popular and widely used by real fishermans.I used it a lot behind a heavy metal 4.5M boat.I has been never overrevved,ran always on special outboard 2 stroke oil and yearly got new plugs and outboard gearoil in lower unit.Other than that the motor is totally original and very well taken care off.But now the time has come for great maintenance.
@@MrMslagter I guess if I had looked back to an earlier comment is have known it was a '71. Kind of surprised those coils were cracked. It does happen though. That's great that you have that much history with the motor too. It will be a great little motor again once it is all tuned up. I'll try to help if needed if I can.
Ty whyte This outboard thing is just my hobby. I have a quite busy day job that is not even related to this. I do have fun doing this. 6hp twin cylinder Merc is a nice little engine. This motor is on my 14 foot Alumacraft FD in this video. Thanks for watching!
I got one same motor . Got it last year on a 12 ft boat , I had learn how to work on it . Had it running 1 prob fixed . I don't think I got my fuel mixed right . Haven got in the water yet . Be soon.
not sure if you will recall but you helped me with some info on a 1960 johnson 10hp seahorse.. it is alive and well now with a new fuel pump, thermostat, plugs and fuel line connectors
They are great little fishing motors. A 9.8 Merc started it for me and an Evinrude Fisherman 6hp kept it going and made me into an OMC fan. Thanks for watching!
Still looking for an an old and smalll Evinrude. You said I should get back with you in a year or so…Here I am 😜. Got anything yet for sale ? Thank you
Well, I don't have much in the way of that stuff for sale right now. I have a '54 Evinrude 7.5 Fleetwin, a '60 Evinrude Fisherman 5.5, and a '59 Evinrude Sportwin 10hp for sale. The Fleetwin still needs to be serviced. The rest are serviced and ready to run.
Old Johnny rude!!! This is mike. Talked to you years ago ! I had sold my boat and outboards. And moved. Then eventually I moved to Montana. And now finally go me another boat and outboards ! Very excited ! It’s a 14 footer just like I had. And it has a big Johnson 25 I believe year 82 So it’s all starting to come back to me. And of course it was supposed to be good to go but I have it in a bucket and it’s not peeing. Exhaust is coming from the main port before the pee line !! What should I start with ?? I’m thinking water pump impeller. But guy said it’s been good and just took it out recently. Who knows if he’s telling the truth. I started it and was distracted and then finally checked temp and it was up lasted 200 !! I shut it down and now the inspection/ work begins !!!
Hello there! Glad to hear you're getting back into it. Your motor is a 32 c.i. 25hp. Good thing you shut it down. These are excellent motors, but are very susceptible to damage from an overheat. The upper water tube grommet and / or the surrounding plastic will melt if the engine overheats. That often causes the plastic or the grommet itself to block or partially block the water inlet at the top of the water tube. I would start with replacing the impeller and cleaning out the telltale hose and nozzle. Start the motor back up after doing that amd see how it does. If it still overheats even after the pump is repaired, it may be time to remove the powerhead and take a look at the top of the water tube to make sure it is not obstructed. Good luck and thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 ok. I have a feeling it’s probably been overheated before after talki g more with the old owner. But we’ll see I already checked tell tale hose and nozzle and it’s clear . Exhaust does come out of the main nozzle before the hose. Do you think damage would have happen from this short start up of idling mostly for a few minutes ? I checked temp and it was up there I think 240 ish. Water would sizzle on the water cover. It’s all coming back to me and I can’t believe I forgot about the tell tale. I was thinking water was coming out the bottom which is exhaust I believe. Iv been waiting to see one of these engines to get and seems to be in good shape. Starts up nicely and I just replaced the old gear oil . So I’ll pull it apart and get at that pump impeller Hoping the top isn’t melted but thinking it may be . Great to hear back from ya. I havnt barely watched videos since selling mine because Iv been waiting to get to where I need to get to before getting a boat and motors. But I see many motors in my future
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 how high does the water need to be in this engine to pump water ? I have it in a tote and believe the water inlets are covered. Looks like the inlets are under that flat part close to the bottom by the propeller right ? Is it just that small vent down there ?
@@joesmith-fi1sx It's always a good idea to check compression. Easy test and good to know what you're working with. I would say this motor should be somewhere around 120psi give or take maybe 10psi.
These are great little motors. These are my favorite as the small (under 10hp) fishing motors go. The two with no fire probably need the points cleaned. A harmonic balancer puller can be used to pull the flywheel and access the ignition components. Not knowing the history of the motors, I would definitely recommend rebuilding the carburetor and replacing the water pump impeller at very least. Drain the gearcase lube and replace with fresh 80w-90 lower unit oil. If it had any water in it, a pressure test should be done to find the leak and that seal.should be replaced. Often it is the shift rod O-ring that is the first to go. I recommend always replacing that O-ring if ever the gearcase is apart since it has to be completely disassembled to get to it. Good luck with your motors and thanks for watching!
Any knowledge about tuning this motor? Is it really 8/9hp or? I could buy one but im not sure yet.. Some people says its constricted from intake manifold? (Not sure it's right term on that)
These motors run beautifully. They have a fixed high speed and adjustable low speed carburetor. This is a first generation 6hp which was basically an adaptation of.the earlier 5.5hp with the addition of needle bearings on the crankshaft end of the rods. These motors share almost nothing with the later generation of 6hp which shared an engine block with the 8hp. These motors will never be anything but 6hp tops. They're beautiful running motors, but if you're looking for speed performance, this is probably not your motor. This particular one is in really nice shape and will push my 14 foot aluminum boat at 11-12 mph with just me and a tank of gas in it. I have an '84 Evinrude 6hp that is the later generation 6 which will push my 14 footer at 14-15mph. With an 8hp carburetor on the later 6hp, they'll get another mph or maybe even 2. The 8hp has a different intake as well as the larger carburetor. These earlier ones have a more durable lower unit, but do not have the performance of the later ones. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404Thanks for the really good answer! Maybe ill go for that 9.9hp rude then! It think that 6 hp is enough for my my boat (max motor size is that 9.9hp) but as they say more is more.😂
just bought one today, $200. I know nothing about it but a perfect size for the boat I'm building. is there a website / company that offers parts and manufacturer manual?
Congratulations on your new motor! These are sweet little fishing motors. Marineengine.com is a good online source for parts and exploded view diagrams. I have a video series on tuning up Classic OMCs on this channel as well. I'm working on a 59 Evinrude 18hp with electric start, but the principles are the same. The biggest difference in the 6hp is the removal and replacement of the lower unit. On these there is no access cover on the side. Remove the 4 gearcase bolts, put the shifter into reverse and pull the gearcase down partially. That will allow access to the shift rod coupler. Remove the bolt completely and drop the lower unit gently. If it hangs up, make sure the water tube is free and rotate the drive shaft slowly to align the cross pin near the powerhead to pass thru the slot under the powerhead. If it is not aligned, the cross pin will break off. It holds the lower crankshaft seal assembly against the base of the powerhead so it will have to be replaced if damaged. Same when it gets put back together. Align the pin parallel to piston travel and it will be aligned with the slot when it it put back together. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 appreciate the knowledge man, thanks! I'm sure I'll run through this channel quite a bit and probably ask some questions! Have a good one 👍
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 it looks like the air intake. It ran ok but wouldn't stay running at idol. So I put a rebuild kit in. Must have done something wrong. First outboard.
@@brianbarna4140 If you have fuel coming out of the intake / carb throat, there is a fairly good chance that your float level is not properly set. The float should be set level with the carburetor body when the body is held upside down with the bowl off. Make sure the float can pivot without getting hung up on anything. There is also a chance that a bowl vent is blocked in the carburetor body. Try those things and see if there is any change. 👍
Thank you. If your gears are no good they can still be purchased new. Here is a link: www.marineengine.com/parts/johnson-evinrude-parts.php?year=1970&hp=6&model=6002B&manufacturer=Evinrude§ion=Gearcase+Group May I suggest also looking for a good used complete lower unit. Buying new gears gets a little cashy. If that is what it takes to save it, then I can see spending the money, but i would try other options over buying all new gears first if it were me. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Hey hey thanks for the information about the outboard in this vid👍🏻 Do you have a users manual for that Motor? I bought also a fisherman with 6hp 2 month ago and I have no further information about this little thing
I do not have a manual for this motor. I'm quite familiar with them so I may be able to answer your questions. If you really want a manual, though, I do see them on Ebay now and then. You may also post an ad on AOMCI.ORG in the free classifieds or even post a question there on Ask A Member. Someone may have one to sell or even have a digital vesion you could download. Thanks for watching!
I'm new at boating. I have the same outboard 1970 Evinrude 6HP. Previous owner fired it in a bucket just to make sure it ran. Any suggestions on what I may need to look for? Mine doesn't have the numbers as visible on the knob as yours. What is the procedure to get these fired up? Prime, pull choke out, make sure its in neutral (middle setting)? Thanks for any info.
Welcome to boating! You have a great little motor. It's good that the previous owner at least fired it up in a bucket to make sure it was running. I always go completely through my motors just so I know exactly what I am working with. Being new, I realize you most likely are not going to know what most of the things are that I would inspect or exactly how to do it. In your case, if you have a running motor to begin with the first thing I would check out would be the lower unit. The water pump impeller should be replaced if you don't know how long it has been in there. These motors should get a new impeller every three or four years in most cases. Sometimes they'll run longer but as preventive maintenance, they should be changed to avoid problems. Drain the gearcase oil and replace with 80w-90 GL-5 lower unit oil. If the oil was milky or had water in it, there is a leak somewhere. It could be the plug screw gaskets, the skeg seam, the skeg screws, spaghetti seal, shift rod O-ring, or the shaft seals, or any combination of the above. The gear oil should be replaced every season anyway so if the leakage is very minimal it may not be a big concern as long as it gets drained regularly and is not allowed to freeze. It is best to get it sealed up though. I have a video an dialing in a carburetor. Yours only has the low speed adjustment. The high speed is fixed so you just allow it to warm up and then follow the same procedure I show for the low speed adjustment. As far a starting the motor, you have it right. Set gearshift to neutral, prime the carburetor with the squeeze bulb, set the throttle to START position or about 2/3 - 3/4 throttle. Pull the choke out. Pull the starter rope taking the slack out and allowing the starter pinion to engage the flywheel before giving the tug. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
This is a 2-stroke motor that requires gasoline/oil premix. Mix gasoline with TCW3 2-stroke outboard oil at a ratio of 50:1 for this motor. That is a pint of oil to 6 gallons of gasoline. I recommend and use only ethanol free gasoline in my outboards. If you have to use ethanol blended gasoline, add MARINE Sta-Bil to it along with the 2-stroke oil . Congratulations on your motor. They really are beautiful little fishing motors. Thanks for watching!
I got the same outboard man but can't figure out how to work the trim or tilt on it lol any tips on how I look for some video can find now videos how to dow it
Great little motors. The tilt lock is the lever on the front of the transom bracket between the clamps. It should be run in the lock position and must be set to unlock to tilt the motor up manually. The nut on the tilt hinge bolt controls the friction on the tilt hinge. The trim is controlled by the position of the trim pin between the clamp brackets. These motors have the pin contained in the clamp with a spring and it can be placed in any of the four positions when the motor is tilted up. The reverse latch hook will grab the pin when the motor is tilted back down and the lock is return the lock position. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
Yes, I have a series of videos going through the tune up of my 1959 Evinrude Fastwin 18hp Electric Start. Some of the camera work is not that good since I did them all on my own with a tripod and a cheap camera or a phone. If you're working on a motor, you can most likely follow along OK though. Thanks for watching!
All the way down on the throttle is supposed to kill it. There is no electrical kill switch on these. They should idle quite slowly without dying though. Thanks for watching!
I use an OMC factory flywheel puller. You can get by with a harmonic balancer puller on these smaller motors just fine if you're careful. Never use a jaw type puller to remove a flywheel. Here is my video showing flywheel removal. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE-qCjbIt9JIaQ.html Good luck with your motor. Thanks for watching!
This one has very little time on it and is a strong smooth running 6hp. I have not run it on the lake yet to get a GPS reading on it. I'll get another video of it when I clean get a speed reading. I'd guess it between 10 and 11mph when the boat is properly balanced. I have gotten 11mph out of my 64 Evinrude 5.5hp before but that's unusual. A good 7.5 will push me about 12mph. This 6 should be able to push me about 11 or so. Thanks for watching!
Old JohnnyRude No problem! One more question. Do you know if this engine has a fuel filter built in? I’m going to try cleaning my carb this weekend and was thinking about installing a filter on the fuel line for preventative measures.
@@mrluke1792 there is a filter screen under the plastic cover on the fuel pump. That is the only filter in the system on this motor if I remember correctly. Thanks for watching!
Another one saved, thanks ! Question for you , have you ever done a video on pressure testing seals ? I have heard it mentioned in several vids but have never seen it done or heard it explained .???
Thank you. I have never done a video on pressure testing a gearcase to check the seals. I could do one if it is of interest. My tester is a bit different than the commercially available gearcase pressure testers. I made my tester in my shop out on necessity and have never felt like spending the money on a commercial unit. The nice thing with the commercially available testers is that they have a flexible hose and a self contained pump. Mine screws directly into the drain hole in the gearcase and I use regulated compressed air to pressurize. I may build another one with a check valve inline so I can use a bicycle pump and not have to worry about how quickly I unhook the pump from the tester. If there is interest I will make a video of pressure testing. Thanks for watching.
Old JohnnyRude Thanks for the reply. You gave me a thought of making my own, so, how much pressure is safe to test with ?? Again , thanks for your time, greatly appreciated !
PRACERZ I usually test with between 9-10psi. I have heard the test should be done at 10psi and again at 6psi. The theory being that some seals will actually benefit from the 10psi and cause the seal to hold, then when the pressure is reduced, that seal may go away and it may leak at the lower pressure. With classic OMC gearcases, if they will hold 10, they'll hold 6 in my experience. The shift rod O-ring is often the first thing to leak and since it is just a simple O-ring and not a lipseal, it won't benefit from the higher pressure like lipseal shaft seals can. The pressure should hold for an hour with no loss. With shafts that can be grooved from wear and shift rods that can be worn amd scratched, sometimes that is not attainable but as close to that as possible is what you're looking for. If there are leaks, I usually put some light oil or soapy water on the seals and look for bubbles while the gearcase is under pressure. I hope that helps.
That's a fantastic motor you got there! That idle is amazing, you can just count revolutions. Did all of the Johnsons and Evinrudes have cross hatching back in the day? I know cars and lawn mower engines always do, but I've never found them on any of my (sometimes low hour) outboards... compression on most of my motors is 75-90 psi. Did you do a compression test on this motor? I woud love to see this one on the lake, I'm really curious how many mph you can get out of her! Take care :)
Thank you, Sir! I'm very happy with this one and happy to have it in my collection. Yes, to my knowledge all of the outboards produced by OMC would have left the factory with cross-hatch in the cylinders. In fact, I don't know of any engine manufacturer that does not use cross hatch in the cylinders as the final step in the honing process prior to flushing and assembly. There could be some, I just don't know of them. The rings need the cross hatch to seat properly and it holds oil to lubricate the pistons as they travel in the bores. I did a compression test on this engine cold and before I put any fuel or anything in the cylinders in it and before I ran it. It measured 86psi dead even top and bottom. After running I would expect it to come up to around 90psi. I will have to do a lake test on this motor with GPS and get a speed reading. I'm guessing it will get between 9 and 10mph on my Alumacraft FD. It may do a little better on my Sea Nymph if I have it balanced properly. There is really very little difference in performance between the 5.5hp and the 6hp. The engines are practically identical aside from the head design and the needle bearings on the crank pins (which were present in 1964 for the last year of the 5.5). I'm curious what speed I can get with it too. I'll try to make a point to make that video this summer. Thanks for watching!
How do you set idle that low? I have the same model but it only idles just barley under the start position anything else and it cuts off. Have most recent vid of the engine posted on my channel if you wanna take a look
These are wonderful little motors. To get the idle as low as I have mine depends on several things working together. The spark needs to be strong and the points timing needs to be set exactly 180° apart between cylinders. The compression needs to be even within 10% max between cylinders. The carburetor needs to be clean. Onve all of this is.in order,, when the engine is up to operating temperature, the low speed needle needs to be dialed in for optimum idle. I have a video on my channel that covers dialing in a carburetor. That one is on a carb woth two adjustable circuits, but you only have the low speed adjustment on yours. Basically just assume the high speed circuit is already optimized. I'm not trying to be critical when I say revving that high without being in gear should be avoided. Just trying to give some advice that may help you extend the life of your motor. Enjoy your motor and thanks for watching!
I'm negotiating an engine like that I'm going to get it today can you help me by telling me if this engine is two-stroke or four-stroke oil? Thankyou,! I'm from brasil🙏🇧🇷
Sure. This is a two-stroke engine. It should be run on a 50:1 mix of gasoline (ethanol free is preferred) and TCW-3 2-stroke outboard oil. Good luck with your motor and thanks for watching!
I have a 6hp Johnson that runs like a champ from the start spot up to wide open, but if I drop the throttle below “start” it cuts out. Also, when I shift it to forward it’s got to be at a little higher idle and I have to gun it as soon as I shift, like it wants to bog down under load. What would your advice be? I ran compressed air from the exit hose of the pump through the drain on the carb bowl and it seemed to blow through good.
It sounds like your low speed fuel circuit is at least partially clogged. My advice would be to rebuild the carburetor with a new OEM carburetor repair kit with a new plastic foam float. That will probably solve much of the issue you are having with idling. I would clean and readjust the points or even put a tune up kit in it too of it was mine, but the carburetor cleaning and rebuild will most likely allow you to achieve a good quality idle again. Thanks for watching!
Hey Johnny, just found a 1969 6hp evinrude for 5 dollars at a garage sale, I got it running today after changing the plugs new pull rope and gas lines. Idles really good. Water pump only spitting air so I ordered a propeller. Can you tell me what that white dial is for on the outside of the motor by the choke/pull rope. My motor is missing the dial.
Congratulations on a getting a great little motor for next to nothing. That white dial is the knob for the low speed needle / idle mixture screw. As long as your motor is idling to your satisfaction, there is no need to adjust it. When you remove the lower unit to replace the water pump impeller, once the bolts are out and the shift rod coupler screw is fully removed, rotate the drive shaft if it hangs up coming out. There is There is cross pin near the top that holds the lower crank seal assembly together. It has to line up with a slot or it will not let the lower unit drop free. Thanks for watching!
Just bought a 12' Hewescraft with a 70 or 71? 6 hp Evinrude, same motor. Motor starts and runs good, real nice motor especially for the price (boat motor and trailer 850.00). One problem is the motor turns too easy so if you take your hand off of the tiller it will not stay straight, boat will turn left. Could not find an adjustment, does anyone know how to tighten it up?
If you look just below the pivot bolt for the tilt, there is a screw right between the clamp screws on the steering pivot tube. You should be able to tighten that slightly and increase the friction on the autopilot. If you cannot get the friction to increase enough, the pad inside the tube is probably worn out. More often than not though they are in decent shape and this will solve your problem. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
I have one that was my dads. Motor has many hours on it and still sounds great idling, but when your in gear it will speed up and slow down all by itself almost like its surging and I don't know why. Where did you find parts for it? Everything but the fuel pump is orginal.
If you are getting surging at full throttle it may be a partially clogged high speed orifice (jet) in the carburetor. It may also be dropping one cylinder intermittently. I'd would recommend a full tune up since it is completely original with the exception of the fuel pump. 50 years later it is definitely overdue for a tune up. Parts can be purchased from your local Evinrude dealer or online from several sources. I use Marineengine.com for many of my parts needs. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I've done the plugs. I will take the carburetor apart and soak it overnight. I love that little motor. Too bad they don't make them like they use too. What would you recommend parts wise for a full tune up? Just seems like the power is not there like it use to be. Especially at full throttle.
@@Justin-tp3lr They are great little motors. For a tune up I would replace the points, condensers, plug wires (at least clip the ends to get fresh copper at the coils and spark plug terminals if the wires are long enough), carburetor repair kit, and a water pump impeller. Also change the lower unit oil if you have not. If it has any water in it, the gearcase will need seals. If the coils under the flywheel show any cracks or burn marks, they will need to be replaced as well. All the parts are still available.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thank you. I drain oil out of the lower unit every year just incase there was water. I wouldn't want it to freeze over the winter as I don't have a heated garage. Making the list and will order soon. Thanks again.
I have the exact same Evinrude! Mine only has a 2 blade prop. What prop are you running on this one? I would like to have a 3 blade. What are your thoughts?
This one has the stock semi weedless 2 blade prop also. The three blade might have a little more "traction" but not much difference in speed. Thanks for watching!
@@ryanmorgan8980 Yes, the extra bite may be worthwhile as a kicker. It would probably be worth a try. I believe the stock 3-blade prop from a later (late 70s) 6-horse will work.
this is Dwayne again, been watching your videos on the different 6 hp omc that you have. been real hard finding the rewind rope for one of these for the on line dealers show the part but no part no.. but on ebay one person have 3 different OMC rope listed, in the 7/23 line the correct one?..He's selling 5 ft of it for 5.49 and free frt..hope this is a fair price.. the closes OMC dearler is in Salt lake, city about 300 miles away.. Any help hear. thanks.
Hi Dwayne, I can't say for certain since I haven't tried it myself but I think a replacement starter rope for a lawn mower available anyplace that sells power equipment parts would work fine for the starter on this motor. This is fairly small diameter cord on these starters. You just may need to cut off the excess once you get the rope installed.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 what funny, see from 1984 to 1989 i was a Service mananger for a Johnson/chrysler dearling and when i needed rewind rope for one of my mach, i would just go up to parts and get it never look and the part no or size of the thing.so this makes me smile...LOL
Mark Smith This boat is a 1972 Alumacraft FD. 14' long, about 53" beam, deep sides My other boat is a 1973 Sea Nymph 14R, 14' long, about 60" beam, deep sides. Thanks for watching!
My dad just give me one he has had for well over 30 years. It ain't firing on the plugs. Pulled the flywheel and it still looked factory new under it no rust or oxidation I mean clean. I was wondering how hard it is to get the condenser for these motors or are they pretty available.
Condensers are very available for these motors. Your local BRP Evinrude dealer has them or can get them. They are also available online from lots of sources. If you have no spark at all, you may want to look at the points too. They may be able to be cleaned and reset. I'd buy a new OEM tune up kit and replace the points and condensers at least. Great little motors. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 thanks the last time it was run was about 20 years ago I love it I used it on 12ft boat great little motors great video thank you sir I will update when I get it running
@@martinturner7063 That's very cool that you have those memories to go along with this motor. They are great little motors. The OMC 6s are my favorite small fishing motors. I'd like to see a video of it when you get it running again. 🙂👍
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I sure will get a video of it up when I get it running for sure. It may take a lil while but I will post one have a great day and thank you.
Have 1969 Johnson 6hp and like you said most and mine the shift handle was broke off when I got it have you ever replaced one I can't find video or info on how to do that
I have not replaced any on my 6 hp motors yet, but several on 5.5s. It works the same way. First you have to pull the powerhead off. Once the powerhead is off there are two nuts (jam nuts) holding the top of the shuft rod to the shift shaft. The handle is part of the shuft shaft. Remove the two nuts, move the shift handle to reverse and than back to forward to get it off the shift rod. Pull the handle assembly out and replace with the new one. Don't forget the O-ring on the shift shaft. Put the shuft rod back in place and replace the jam nuts. Replace the powerhead base gasket if needed and re mount the powerhead. Hook up the fuel lines and throttle control and you're back in business. Thanks for watching!
@@ct1762 yeah. It's a bit of a pain. A bigger pain on an 82 7.5 than a 68 6hp though. The 6hp isn't very far removed from its 5.5hp predecessor. Those motors required pulling the powerhead for water pump service so they were designed to be easy to remove and replace. The powerhead on an 80s 7.5 needs to come off far less often so they are slightly less friendly to remove. Thanks for watching!
I got one of these recently. It didn't come with fuel line or gas can. I can't find the 3 prong fuel adapter anywhere online. Where can you find the fuel hoses for these, with the 3 prong female adapter?
I'm not sure what motor you actually have. Any of the 6hp OMCs like this one use a single line tank and fitting (2-prong). Johnson and Evinrude began using fuel pumps on all their motors 5.5hp and up beginning in 1960. If your motor is 1959 or earlier and uses a remote fuel tank it will have the 2-line pressure tank fitting (3-prong). To use that fitting requires a 2-line pressure fuel tank. The hoses on those are clamped on and not a quick detachable arrangement like the single line. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I have a 1970 6hp fisherman, but the fuel port on the engine has three prongs for fuel, one of them bring just a flat piece of metal.
@@CoreyBrown-ve8ye It sounds like you have a common single-line fitting. If the third prong is just cast as part of.the base of the fitting, that is just serving as a guide / support for the fitting on the fule line. The fitting would still technically function without that piece. The solid round pointed piece serves as a latch that holds the fitting on the fuel inlet half of the fitting which is the other round piece that sticks out of the cast base. Does that make sense?
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Here, I took a picture of the fuel port, if you could confirm that it is a single line fitting. 1970 6HP Evinrude Fuel port imgur.com/a/Ctn7R7g
There is no kill switch on these motors. The throttle is just turned toward SLOW until the engine stalls. Once the timing is retarded far enough it will die. Thanks for watching!
Did you remember the drive key/pin in the shaft that drives the impeller? Is the water tube grommet in good shape and sealing properly? Did the water tube seat into the grommet when you replaced the lower unit? Was your motor pumping any water at all before you replaced it? Was the old impeller intact?
Once the engine starts and begins to warm up the choke gets pushed back in. My low speed mixture knob gets left at three because once the idle is dialed in on the boat at normal seasonal temperature, that is where I set the knob to be. That way if it is colder than normal and it needs to be richened some or vice-versa, I always know where to return the adjustment to the normal setting. Does that make sense?
Old JohnnyRude thank you for the response! It does make sense. I got a 1967 Fisherman for $40. It was dusty and full of dirt daubers. The owner didn’t want it. I am new to boating so I watch your videos for Instructions.
@@psychodad4634 That's a great buy on the '67 Fisherman. Congratulations! I go thru 99% of my motors whether they run when I get them or not. I will do my best to help and answer questions if I can. The choke on these should only be required for a cold start. If you have to run with the choke out even partially under normal conditions, your carburetor probably needs to be rebuilt. Mist of these motors have been doing long enough that I just give them a full tune up so I start with everything fresh. Most of them run very nicely afyer being serviced. Thanks for watching!
I do sell a few motors every year and I do occasionally do repairs for other people, but most of these are in my personal collection. Thanks for watching!
Hi Ben, I have the same motor, but the slow speed adjustment needle seem to be tilted/aligned to the right side a bit, which is touching the edge of the hole opening of the motor case. Do I need to adjust the whole powerhead or add extra gasket to the carburetor so to tighten one side more, Not that the needle won't turn, just that I think it is odd. Any remedy or suggestions welcome. Thank you very much. Peter.
It is possible that the powerhead was just turned all the way one way so the screws that hold it on the exhaust housing are all the way again one side of the clearance holes. It coukd be that the lower pan is shifted in the opposite direction as well and together it has the needle that far off center. You should not have any reason to add extra gasket and "steer" the carb with uneven torque on the nuts. A combination of things may be at work to.make it that way though. Thanks for watching!
Thanks again for your reply Ben. Actually, my motor is the exact one you have on your avatar, 1968. Sounds like you know exactly what i was describing, I guess it might not be a good idea for me to tinker with it then, unless I know what I'm doing. It works fine, just that I wanted to make it perfect for this neat little motor. Keep the prop out of the mud, Cheers!
@@peteryeung111 I like that 68 Fisherman a lot. That is my second nicest 6hp Evinrude. That one was covered in camouflage paint when I got it. The hood got repainted, but all the rest of the paint cleaned up with solvent. If your motor is running nicely, it probably isn't worth trying to center that mixture needle up. If you do pull the powerhead and try to square everything up again, replace the O-ring in the carbon seal, the gasket that seals again the bottom of the block around the crankshaft, and the powerhead base gasket. It's not a bad idea to change these bits anyway, just because the stuff is 50 years old now. I understand not wanting to mess with it too though. I have had many of these apart so I'm pretty comfortable tearing into them.
Old JohnnyRude Yeah, I started watching you and chrysleroutboard about two years ago, that's when i got hooked with these vintage Evinrude motors. My 68' is in very good condition, paid $100 from a retired gentleman just last year. I'd changed the coils, points, condensers, new carb kit and gearcase oil. Total parts cost about $100, joy working on these motors, priceless.😁 I think what you'd pointed out is very doable for me, perhaps for my next winter project, I'll just enjoy it for this coming fishing season. Once again, your channel has provided many hours of entertainment for guy like me, not to mention the inspiration and knowledge about this hobby. I have a few more motors to work on and i will post questions in the future if i need to. All the best!!
@@peteryeung111 I think you have a good plan there. I'm sure you can handle the work that would have to be done. It certainly can wait until winter comes around again though. I got hooked on these old outboards too. I really love the old OMCs from the glory days of the company. I'm very happy to hear you enjoy my channel and my videos as well and chrysleroutboarddude's channel. Mr. Dittmar has been doing this a lot longer than me and I learned a lot from him when I got started. I still learn a thing or two from him now and then. We have fun in Tomahawk every year and stay in contact since I met him some years ago.
@@damonzallar3256 One of the coolest things about this hobby and these old motors is how they bring back great memories for so many people. Thanks for watching!
If the mixture knob is turning on its own the packing nut is too loose. The brass sleeve that is around the mixture needle under the hood can be snugged up with a 7/16" wrench. Just tighten it enough to keep the knob from being moved too easily.
They are available new from your local Evinrude dealer. I don't have one close that has hours that work for me so I order many of my parts from Marineengine.com. EBay is another source. I prefer BRP parts to aftermarket even if they cost a bit more. The quality is better. Thanks for watching!
I run this one on 24:1 most of the time because I'm running a 50s 10 horse on the same day. This is a 50:1 mix motor though. All the 6hps were. The 6hp started in 1956 and 50:1 across the board for OMC started in 1964. Thanks for watching!
Your local BRP Evinrude dealer has or can order parts. Several online sources as well. I use Marineengine.com quite a bit since I don't have a local dealer I can get to during business hours. Thanks for watching and congrats on your motor!
@@evinrudej This entire comment and reply got swapped to a completely unrelated video. When this question came up in my notifications, it was attached to my 1976 Johnson 55hp on my 20 foot pontoon boat. The 55 pushes the toon at about 21 mph. This 6hp Evinrude will push the 14 foot Alumacraft it is clamped on at about 10mph in ideal conditions. LOL. Thanks for watching!
You might get a little better acceleration with a 3 blade prop since the bite in the water may be a little better. The later 6 horse motors used a 3 blade conventional type prop. It probably won't make a lot of difference though. It is just a 6 horse after all. Thanks for watching!
The short answer to your question is no. It might be possible to put your powerhead on a different midsection and lower unit that was built with a neutral clutch. Yours is on a direct drive lower unit and that cannot be converted to have neutral. It is completely different inside. Thanks for watching!
@@MileytheJeepV2 These cross flow 2-stroke outboards are made to idle for extended periods of time. These things should troll for hours at a time with no issues. If they don't, they're either not tuned properly or they're worn out.
I like these little motors. They are very dependable. They are not powerhouses and I cannot really tell any power difference between the 6hp and the older 5.5hp. A good one will push me in a 14 foot aluminum fishing boat that is properly balanced at anywhere from 9-11mph. If they are getting tired they may only reach 6 or 7mph. Thanks for watching!
@@jimcatx3090 With the cross flow design of these engines the available gains from grinding the ports are pretty small. I'm not sure where you would source upgraded reed valves for one of these. I imagine something could be found that was close enough to modify. I'm skeptical of the gains that would be seen from this as well. It's a lot easier to use a larger motor if more power is the goal. I do, however, understand the desire to get as much out of any given size engine as possible though.
This will not be a simple port job I’m going to be doing piston porting I found performance reeds and intake and exhaust work a friend of mine builds racing dirtbikes I know your a big oem get back to stock guy but for science sake I want to see what this motor will do
321252 is the number for the cylinder head on this motor. 0439071 is the number for the carburetor kit. Buy the OEM kit, not aftermarket. Thanks for watching!
