HEY! WE HAVE A MERCH STORE!!!! www.dwschopsho... Here I adjust the clutch cable and clutch release mechanism on a 1972 ironhead step by step out of the tech manual. Like and subscribe if this helped you out!
Have a 72. Took a couple of tried but just kept doing the sequence n I finally dialed it in. Mine was slipping so took the spacers down to one inch. Gotta love having an old Harley mechanic. Dealerships r no good on these old machines. My mechanics name is Duck.
A bike that old after your correct clutch adjustment, if your still having slipping issues, it's the friction plates worn most likely,make sure oil is right too
As simple of a procedure as this is there are a lot of moving parts. If your bike is pulling forward when your clutch is pulled in that tells me its not engaging all the way. Which usually points to your clutch being adjusted but your cable is too loose. When you adjust the clutch its self are you loosening the cable first, then tightening the cable after the adjustment? Take a ruler and measure how much slop is in your clutch cable before and after the adjustment. If its more than 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch its too much. To measure the slop pull your clutch handle until the free play is gone. Measure the gap at the widest part from where the clutch lever pivots. Also make sure you double check the lock nut on the clutch and on the cable!
Gonna go out and try this. Replaced my clutch plates so hopefully this helps. Im getting high rpms that aren't matching the speed and a bit of a hard shift. 83 sporty
Hey Marcus, Great video. I started this project to change the clutch cable and gasket. I have made the adjustments several times and the clutch lever won't pull in after the adjustment. Amy idea what I'm doing wrong.
A 13/16 in spark plug socket should be used to hold the locknut in place while turning the screwdriver on the adjusting screw to 'disengage' the clutch . . .
I have a 1972 xlch and the clutch mechanism is really stiff. I can’t even pull the handle it it so locked up. I’m wondering if you’ve ever had this issue and maybe know what could be causing it
First thing I would have to ask is if its the clutch or the cable. You would have to pop your primary cover off for that one. The clutch cable is supposed to be lubricated at every oil change. And if it is the clutch itself, your clutch might need a rebuild. If plates are sticking together, or springs are too compressed it could cause issues like what your getting.
thx for the vid I have a 68 iron head and tried to adjust the clutch cable after I placed the handlebar lever and the dang thing jumped off the keeper inside the primary so now I have to pull my primary case and hook back the cable inside any input on how to do this without messing anything up
What's up Marcus D, I have a 1984 iornhead with a clutch needing adjusted. I haven't been able to get it right. After watching this I think I've been doing it backwards. I was worried my throw out bearing or bearings are going bad. It started the other day I would pull the clutch lever in coming to a stop or whatever and it's not disengaging or engaging whatever and it still pulls a little. Same thing if you pull the clutch in and start it in gear it starts to roll. Any input you have to add would be appreciated. Thanks Chris
Hey man I have a 1988 Harley Davidson Sportster that just pick up a bit ago and was wondering if you got any videos on a wire diagram or if you got anything you can send my way it's a bobber wires that need to be connected
I’m looking to buy a 1972 but seller says it would go in gear, let out the clutch and it wouldn't move and it also didn't stall. It just stayed running in gear. Anyone know what’s wrong?
Have a '80 Ironhead, and a complete newbie, busy with all this now, so thanks for the advisory vid. Have been told to also Tension the gear chains as they are very loose. Advice on how to do this?
I don't know what "gear chains" you are referring to but to adjust the primary chain inside the left side cover, remove the large aluminum plug on the top half of the cover, you can see and feel the chain through there. Under the side cover just in front of the kickstand is an adjusting bolt (may be hex head or allen head) with a lock nut. Back off the lock nut, put the appropriate wrench on the bolt, left hand will work better, reach through the hole to feel the chain movement, you want 5/8" of up and down movement. Turn the bolt in to tighten the chain, out to loosen it, then tighten the lock nut. Assuming the chain is not new, before adjusting it find the tight spot in the chain by moving it up and down, then roll the rear wheel forward (trans in gear, spark plugs out) 10" or so and check the chain again, continue until a complete revolution. Do the adjustment at the tight spot. Simple eh? Old Harleys are so much fun! 😉 The only other chain on your Sportster is to the rear wheel, good luck.
Tried to adjust the clutch on my 75 sportster following this video and now clutch is very hard . Can't even squeeze the handle in. What could be the problem?
I have a 76 sportser,i just replaced the clutch cable acording to the video,and while holding the clutch in i put it in gear, and she jumps like the clutch was never pulled,can any one help
Have a 1980 Ironhead with clutch issues. When go to adjust cable and internal mechanism all I get is full tension - can't move hand lever or no tension - where hand lever moves fully but cable is not adjusting anything? Can you assist ? Has internal mechanism dropped cable out of its fitting?
I adjusted the slack out of my cable, and adjusted the screw according to the video, but the bike still drags in 1st with the clutch lever pulled in. What else can I do to get the clutch lever to release from power?
so that means your clutch plates are still rubbing. depending on clutch age and wear you might need to play with the adjustment a bit. Take the screw driver and turn the center screw in another 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Might have to play with it a bit until you find the happy spot. Only other option would be to pull the clutch apart, clean and scrub the plates and put it back together.
I follow this and the books instructions and it still isn't right i should be able to move the bike when it's in gear with the clutch pulled in right it keeps acting like it's not engaging and it has all new component's inside the primary cover soo idk what im doing wrong
I just got a 75 ironhead and it's slipping pretty bad and also bogging down when kinda high rpms. I'm gonna try this adjust my clutch like this first and see what's wrong with it.
just uncovered a 76 xlh 1000 hasn't been started in 10 years. my buddy from Carolina let gas sit it in it. is there video on what we should do before trying to start. thanks man
I don't have a video personally. but I would put fresh oil in it, fresh plugs, clean the carb, adjust pushrods, check your points, and try to fire it over. I have a video for pushrod adjustment. changing spark plugs and oil are rather straight forward. depending on the type of carb I could make a cleaning video for you. and points videos are everywhere. let me know if I can help!
+steve “Harley-usa” Feldy Pull off the fuel line from carb, pour kerosene in the tank and swish it around good, drain kero off by letting it flow through petcock. then take petcock off and clean the screen filter or replace. Drain the oil and put in fresh correct weight oil, but cheap oil. Clean the carburetor by removing the bowl and flush it out through the fuel line so fuel passes out the bottom of carb. Put in new plugs, make sure the threaded part of the plugs are correct length, to long and they will punch a hole in your piston dome - trust me on this - they should only be the depth of the threaded hole in head and no longer. After doing all this and getting engine to start and run, the engine is more often than not going to puke a lot of oil out of the breather tube on your right side case. This is caused by wet sumping on Ironheads after prolonged periods of sitting because oil over time has leaked down into the bottom of the engine case. Moisture has probably also gotten into the oil over time from sitting and sometimes fuel if the petcock was left on. Harleys are dry sump systems during normal operations. If may take some run time for it to puke all the extra oil from the sump. A pan underneath would be advisable, or if your adventuress take a few laps around the block but beware as all that extra oil getting pumped out might wet your rear tire. When it stops puking out of the breather tube shut her off and drain out the cheap oil as it has flushed the system. Do Not attempt to remove the plug on bottom of engine case below the sump to drain excess oil. Put in a new oil filter in the kidney oiltank if it is still the stock oil tank. Put in fresh correct quality oil and do not over fill, it's best to check your oil level when engine is cold to avoid over filling of the tank. Replace the drive chain and flush the front brake reservoir and refill with D.O.T 5 brake fluid not car brake fluid. D.O.T 3 brake fluid can be used but be forewarned it attracts moisture per HD service bulletin of the day. When you refill the brake reservoir do not pump the lever, rather let the fluid gravity feed through the system down and out the bleeder screw - make sure to keep reservoir full while doing this or else you will get air back in the system - until it comes out without air bubbles, close off bleeder, top off reservoir to fill line. If your in North Carolina and get stuck give a holler.
I just bought a 79 ironhead and I'm replacing the cable and when I follow your step to the t my clutch handle has the play but when squeezed it doesn't go anywhere. New to the Harley world any info would be great
I just installed new transmission gears in my 77 ironhead 1000cc . it shifted fine and smooth then my clutch cable went slack well I fixed that and it was running smooth shifted perfect no slop but then it got stuck in 4th gear any ideas?.
hey man just picked up an 82 sports term and it shifts fine but when I take off it almost sounds like the gears are grinding but goes away l. and it feels like it chugs a bit in the case any ideas
Has the bike sat for a long time? Could be sticky plates. The actuator might need a little love, cable could be rusted inside the sheath, and spring could be broke. I would pull the clutch off, inspect the plates, scrub the steel plates, inspect the hub bearings, inspect the springs, there is an allowable "squish" to them in the manual, grease the actuator assembly. Inspect the cable. Basically, it's a rebuild.
Yeah, adjust your clutch would be the first step. If that doesn't help or make thing better let me know. It might be time to replace your clutch plates. If thats the deal ill walk you through it.
I’m going to need a two way communication link with you. I have a 72 that I recently bought. It pulls when the clutch is depressed and it slips under load.
I just got a 72 yesterday and it does the exact same thing... But I also noticed that the lock nut where the cable goes into the case is loose as shit...
Have a 72 Ironhead myself, just ran it for the first time this season, out of nowhere I started getting high rpms and low speeds, I figured it's loose primary chain or something with the clutch? Where do you think I should look first?
@@christodd735 I adjusted the clutch the way you did here and it seems to be workin fine. It was adjusted way too far in causing it to drag. Thanks man! Now I just have to fix the kicker gear it snaps back on me sometimes and lets me know I'm alive 😠🤬 sometimes it will slip and I'll hyper-extend my knee as well. Isn't there supposed to be a pin in there that prevents the kick arm from swinging back at you? Do you think I need to replace the kicker gear or can it be shimmed?
My first gear pops out a lot, but the rest are fine. Bit of a wobbly take-off every time getting into first. Any suggestions? Great video by the way man, super user-friendly.
hey Marcus when I go through the steps you explain I get it where I think its good I pull on the clutch and hear a pop and the clutch gos back to flopping any idea why this could be happening
if your getting a load pop you might have to take your primary cover off and check to make sure your clutch cable and ball and ramp assembly are all good to go.
Mine is still not disengaging the clutch correctly ands will not release, so I'm going to try new oil and if that doesn't work, its coming apart and I'm rebuilding all of it. Tired of messing with old stuff coming back up with N.O.S. so the problem can come again in another thirty to forty years.
I have a 74 ironhead right side shift. I have adjusted the clutch. even with the clutch ingaged when I shift into gear the bike starts to go. with the clutch in I am able to hold the bike there till I let off the clutch. any ideas on what I am doing wrong or needs replaced
If you follow the adjustments and it still stick like that it might just need ridden. Riding and shifting moves oil and forces the clutch plates to move around some. These things are made to ride!!! If that doesn't do it it might be time for a clutch rebuild.
Hey man I have a 79 ironhead. 17 yr old girl pulled out in front of me and had to lay it down. which resulted in a shift rod being sacrificed to the gods after I replaced all the broken things I put a new clutch ramp in in now she is all back together but clutch drags so much it won't pull up the driveway idk what's wrong I have adjusted everything all the way in and out still drags. seems like the more thottle I give it the more it engages what do I do ? I'm at a loss
I have a 1973 sporty and the clutch worked fine for years. The other day I had to pull the cover off to replace a primary chain adjuster. Now I can't get the clutch adjusted right. It jumps forward when I put it in gear hard. I have to hold the brakes and it almost shuts the motor off. I took all the slack out of the cable. from first contact I ran the clutch adjustment screw in 2 full turns. Ran the cable out almost half way out to get the proper adjustment on the handle, Then I backed out the adjustment til first contact again. Then I backed out 1/3 turn. I had to readjust the cable to get the proper slack at the handle, That is exactly what I did. I must be retarded because the bike almost jumps out from under me. Please let me know what you think. As I said at the beginning. I had no problems like this before pulling the cover.
Happens to me a lot too. Sometimes I have to do this 5 or 6 times. Just have to find the sweet spot. Lose the cable adjust the clutch tighten cable. Next time try only coming out 1/4 of a turn.
Hi Marcus, You have no idea what a great service you do for us making these video's. I'm sure it took a lot of time. I am going to give it another shot. I think I have an idea of what might be the problem. When I put the case back on, I never pinned the ramp assembly in place. When I took the case off the first time the whole assembly just came right out so when I put it back together, I just dropped everything in. Now I am wondering if the whole assembly is walking around inside of there.
I have followed these instructions to the LETTER for years, and it almost never goes right. The damn thing will launch as soon as you drop into first. The problem I think is the "feel" as to what is "no play," what the back off turns are supposed to feel like, and what is "loose." Sometimes it can take multiple times to adjust it. Otherwise, it goes to someone who has the right eye for it.
Thanks for the comments that I am not alone in my rebuild and adjustment of my 74 XLH. I've done everything as per my shop manual and this video, and he still jumps when dropped into first. Can you provide some step-by-step info on what I should be doing as per your comments above?
JUST BOUGHT 77 SPORTSTER AND LOOKING FOR GOOD VIDEOS AS I WANT TO GO THREW MOST THE BIKE BEFORE CRUZZN LINKS TO ANY OTHER VIDS THAT WILL HELP WILL BE AWESOME
