1972 1973 Lincoln Continental Mark IV Thunderbird Power Window Motor Runs But Window Doesn't Move. Adam Wade Of Rare Classic Cars & Automotive History.
These years the door panels are complex enough that if you don't know what you're doing, you can really damage the components. In this example, someone clearly already busted and screwed into the door panel because they didn't know what they were doing. But Tony came to the rescue and know we all know how to perform this job ourselves. Thanks for sticking it through to the end.
Working on these door panels is surely an art. You really have to know how the pieces come apart before touching it or stuff will get broken. And, they are all different.
You are a whiz at this repair job. You know al lot about this subject. Thank God Charlie is there to film this. Without Charlie, we wouldn't see what you do. I hope Adam took care of you and Chalie of your time on the job and getting you tow bak and forth from your home and his.. Only look forward to your videos. I learn a lot.
interestingly the sedans from 71 seemed to have a similar but slightly less conveluted way to get the motor out, but also the door handles are integrated in such a way where all you need is a prop screw driver and a business screw driver to get the handle squares back on.
Any chance we could see a in depth guid on installing weather stripping on a Mark V? Mine needs done as well as a whole host of other things. This channel is a gold mine though, keep up the work
I can't provide that at this time but when I do the video on the door panel removal and power vent window explaining I may be able to discuss a little bit of that. Thank you for watching!
Is a 1997 Ford T-bird the same repair for passenger's window with window motor working but not going up? Do you have any parts I can buy for it? Thank you
Thanks for sharing your knowledge. I’m going to see if this is the problem with a 74 Mark IV I picked up. If so, do you have a reference or suggestions for the dowels?
You're welcome. If you hear the motor running but the window isn't moving, then, yes, this is the problem. I've been getting all of my torque pins off of Ebay. Thank you very much for watching and commenting!
@@RPPerformanceCycleCrownPoint they are all the same. www.ebay.com/itm/115538101439?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=K3ZRdcAETbu&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=RitHQGxcQy2&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I believe a stack of 3/8th nuts will fix that motor up just fine. I recall my father doing that to serval of the motors in our 1992 town car years ago. Watching as I had trouble removing my door panel in my 72. Didn’t realize the pad came up and out. My plastic was cracked and broken slightly worse so I just put it back together and decided to wait before digging in further
@@tonyscarcare5657 just wondering if it’s better to use the nuts at this point or if the replacements are just gonna break down over time again. Only looking to do this once and also have the car for many many more years. Hoping to get into it this week
I have a 73 mustang and I’m replacing the motor. Like you said mustang don’t have a good access slit in the door. I have removed the screw on the left and center, but the third screw is on the other side and I am having to access from the speaker hole. My question is what is holding that motor in? Those three screws? I am concerned with getting it back together. I thought if I took the two 1/2” screws holding the bracket out the bracket and motor would come out together. Am I wrong?
You can take the motor and regulator out together. Do not attempt to take the regulator out after the motor has been taken off. The regulator has a big spring on it and you will have big problems.
I have a 78 MarkV same door panel going to replace the cracked section of arm rest panel as they all do. I’m wondering if you can give me more information about those clips. Part # if possible close up pic ? I want to have all parts and clips before I take it all apart. The video was very helpful
My windows work both ways but they shake as they come down , I’ve greased the metal guides and it’s still a problem I think it may be those white nylon guide bushing but I’ve not been able to find them . Any help would be appreciated thank you
Guys, door panels and armrests for late 1960s early 1970s FoMoCos are notoriously weak. A factory repair manual would be invaluable to ensure that you aren't prying or pulling on something that wasn't intended to move. Protect your cars.
Good evening my opera window motor is working but it doesn't open and close if that makes since also my passenger window motor is working but it is off track are these simple fixes?
@tonyscarcare5657 Darn. I, too recently bought a 72 Mark IV and the windows don't roll down too much and the shop confirms its getting power to the switch and the motors appear to be good. I do have brand new motors just in case but the shop doesn't want to touch it saying the doors are too brittle and they don't want to risk breaking anything so I'm stuck. And being that it has no working cold AC makes it worse.
@tonyscarcare5657 basically...just outside the western city limits and I've had hell since I've gotten it almost two months ago. It's been in the shop since I had it. New rebuilt Ford carb and full tune up only to get it back a week ago and the new carb no good as it was running like crap so now it's getting a Edlebrock. Hopefully get it back next week.
I have a 1972 lincoln 4 door and my power windows just stop working on all of them after i started the car. then i turned off the car and turned key to accessory and the window went down and wont go back up. I tryed the other door switch and nothing worked and tryed the rear switch and nothing works. i checked the fuse and its good any ideas?
I drove a mark 3 and the dam frame in the back before the frame turns up to clear the axel it broke and I was told that all mark 3s broke in the same area do to piss poor factory construction so don't try and tell me how great that pos mark 3 is.. Anyway, I'm definitely looking forward to purchasing a 72 mark IV way better design than the mark 3 ever wished of being in every aspect, the construction, the style and the whole esthetics of style and design the mark 3 is an ugly design mistake it wasn't carefully crafted to a masterfully elegant body flow like the mark IV is. You apparently do look like you exactly know your business very good video ...
@tonyscarcare5657 THE 72 MARK IV WAS THE HOME RUN IN THE LOOKS AND QUALITY, in fact the only thing that the 72 didn't have that the mark 3 had was the HP .However, that won't be a problem once I have my a very good friend of mine that's been building dirt modified race car engines for well over 50yrs and is a big FORD guy take care of the hp decline of the 72 yr of the mark IV hp issues , NOT to modify too much nothing over 400hp . Anyway, excuse me for not liking the mark 3 and it's issues, However, I am a FORD fan I don't agree with that Ralph Naders negative attacks on the American manufacturers. The pintos and the mavericks were damn good vehicles and the other manufacturers of that time were damn good too. I know very well, I lived those wonderful times and I remember the big three were putting out fabulous automobiles of the great old days of real stylish vehicles....
