I got a similar aluminum 22 gal tank for mine from CPP... it was pricey for a fuel tank too, but it was just over $400... gonna go with an external pump that I can mount on a bracket on the frame rail, so if it needs to be replaced, I don't have to drop the tank to do it...🖖🏿😎👍🏿
There’s absolutely nothing wrong with running an external pump. I used to use them many years ago. There are 2 benefits from an in tank pump however. First they are quieter, and second the fuel in the tank helps act as a cooling agent to keep the pump temperatures down. Thanks for watching!
Try to include a vapor canister telling your PCM programmer to disable EVAP test, but keep purge. Include a roll over valve in a hose run up high inside the fender to attach to the filler neck. That tank is what I would purchase, if me wallet said yes. The 98 & new GM trucks use the same P/N for almost all and a salvage yard find it perfect. Just save all of the pinch connectors and a length of hose that goes with them. Each port is labeled from that factory and a home made bracket is easy to make to fit real estate near the back. The extra line required for purge is required but it burns raw fumes you paid for. Where it says tank valve, either glue seat foam on it or attach a small engine paper fuel filter in line. Once warm, the engine pulls outside air in to empty the canister of raw hydrocarbons. Just harvest one and shake to make sure no black pellets fall out which very rare. Look real good! DK, Omaha
Thx. I agree about those handy automatic punches, also was wondering about plumbing this tank because there are a few videos but none all inclusive that I've found... for instance which brand of durable in line filter performs well, part numbers for all the lines and fittings, complete explanation of wiring, etc
It might be a bit before I get to a video on mine explaining. But, running a corvette filter from the early 2000’s vintage close to the tank has worked well for me in the past. It also has a built in pressure regulator in case your running a different fuel pump without one, but you have to run a return line back to the tank. The lines I build custom with braided stainless 3/8 hose. I’ll try to do a video sooner to try and explain into detail.
Thankyou for the detailed build information. Is this the pump I would run with an L83 or is it the stealth 340? -Make sure your door is closed when removing nozzle from in cab tank filler so you don't slosh gas all over your bench, lol.
You could use either for an L83. Pretty much with any LS or LT based motor any pump that puts out 55-65 psi will work unless you are over 500 hp then you will need to worry about fuel volume as well as pressure
So I’ve had quite a few questions about this so I did a video on it that should show up in the next half hour or so. I won’t be doing my truck for a while till I get the paint done so hopefully it will answer your questions. If the video doesn’t let me know and I’ll try to answer you the best I can.
It’s basically the design similar to the GM mounting method they use on their tanks for their pumps. It allows a perfect seal for this particular pump. The bad thing is you can only use this pump with this tank. Boyd’s makes a similar tank that is for a more universal pump but I chose this design because experience tells me that the GM pump I am using will be more reliable.
How did you secure the plate with three tapped holes to the frame rail? Are the two extra holes in the plate intended for welding to the frame - like spot welds? Easier if the bed is not installed yet.
I didn’t. The plate sits on the top of the lower frame rail and it is just sandwiched together with the tank, frame, and isolator pads by the bolts. I found it easier this way. It’s not hard to position either side in place while you start the bolts from the bottom. The instruction say you can use this method or you can drill and tap the frame and use the 2 screws per side and bolt it to the frame, also instructions mention welding as another method but my frame was already painted so I didn’t want to weld it. Also I like the way I did it as it is easy to drop the tank if you ever have to replace the pump. As future maintenance would be easier. But all 3 methods work, really depends on what the installer prefers. I will also mention before painting the plates to install I welded different length standoffs to plates varying from 1/8” to 3/8” because the plates did not fit my frame perfectly flat and I wanted even clamping pressure when bolted together.
How did you wiring up the pump ? some guy told me that i need a fuel system control module with this pump... thats again a lot of money to run some fuel to the engine.
Can say for your specific application not knowing your specifics. But for the way I do it you do not need a fuel control module. I always do LS1 swaps using the factory GM computer with a stand alone wire harness and fuse block. In doing so the computer controls power through a relay in the custom fuse block to power the pump just like the factory setup in which case when you turn the key on the pump is powered for 5 seconds then shuts off unless you crank and start the engine then it runs continuously. This is done this way as a safety so if your motor dies such as in an accident the pump doesn’t continue running pumping fuel all over. But as far as the basics one wire for pump power, one for ground, and 2 wires run directly to my Dakota digital gauge cluster for sending unit to fuel gauge.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Thanks for your fast response.... My setup i gonna use is a L99 engine with a stand alone and E38 ECM with a boyds welding tank ( same as yours ) and the original fuel pump out of my donor car from a camaro ss 2014. i don't take the fuel control module out of the car, i didn't know there was one in the car, i thought the pump was running by the ECM of the car so the rest is gone to the junk yard shredder already. i am happy to hear from you that you also don't use a fuel control module. is it necessary to change the original fuel pressure regulator for a 60 psi regulator ? Vaporworx sell them for my pump and recommended it. The relay that you are using to prime the fuel pump is that a special one ? i like the way you run it with the 5 sec of prime with no starting for the safety. PS: doing a ls swap in my '69 C10
@@IrocDennis did you already have a stand alone harness made? If not I use Speartech. They build great harnesses and will also do all the PCM retuning. I’m not sure if the E38 has a fuel pump provision but it should. If you have a professional harness made it will come with a fuse block and the associated relays for fuel pump, engine fans, ect. As far as pressure regulator the GM pump you have is internally regulated but I always run an external fuel filter and use a corvette filter 99-2004 which has an internal regulator as well and has a single 3/8 feed line to engine as well as a return from the filter back to the tank. Once I’m done painting I will do in depth videos of the wiring and plumbing. However that will not be for some time.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 yes I already have a stand alone wiring, i buyed it from some guy on Facebook. Yes there is a fuse block with some relays and I saw a wiring that goes to the fuel pump relay. I think I buy a fuel pressure regulator from Vaporworx with the 60 psi and put this in the Gm pump. I’m interested in your video in the next time
Person preference but with the bracket you don’t need a wrench to hold 6 nuts in a hard to reach spot. Removal and reinstall is also faster. I come from a mechanical background I design and build things that are easy to work on and take apart unlike most vehicle manufacturers today!
