@@grumpy1962R so after contemplating your question. I’ll try to answer it the best i can. I have seen some trucks where the bed or the cab seems narrower. Usually if you center everything it ends up looking pretty decent, sometimes it’s hard to judge with all the curves on older trucks. The best thing to do in your case is asssuming your frame is perfectly straight then find the center of your frame and mark the center of the cab and bed from underneath and center them on the frame. Normally there is enough adjustment to accomplish this. You didn’t say if you have a step side or fleet side bed. If it is a step side then I believe they are a little narrower by design. If it is a fleet side then it should be much closer in width to the cab. If you have a fleet side and centering everything looks all wrong then I’m at a loss why there is that much discrepancy between the two.

Welcome to the car scene! Remember for informal events you can always do a cruise night or a cars and coffee once a month as well for smaller groups.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Thank you, I have hosted like 20+ cruise in with my group and I want to try and possibly do a car show later this year or maybe next year. Do you think it would be a good idea to possibly get a hold of other local groups to do a combined show or no?

@@PhyscoTurkeyPhotography I personally think that would be a good idea. At the very least so you aren’t planning events at the same time. If they want to work with you for a large event that is even better. I live in the desert so the best time here is spring and fall and it seems like every year someone in the closest cities is putting on events the same time as our local one and I’m sure it’s because there is no communication between organizers, or maybe competition. Hard to say.

Honestly, for things like that, I just go with what feels good within the torque range of the size fastener I’m using. The only time I break out my torque wrench is for critical stuff such as engine rebuilds. After 25 years of doing this it’s how I do it, right or wrong.

There was something about the factory hoses I didn’t like but I don’t remember what it was. I prefer to upgrade stock rubber hoses to multi layer aftermarket ones anyway. Many companies will build you hoses with whatever length and hose ends you desire.

Thanks, but I already did the cut for a standard Din deck before paint. Still keeping the AC vent and ash tray so it’s close to original looking. Planning on running 6” speakers up front and 2 more 6 inch speakers in pods that mount in the rear cab corner pockets. Then making a box the same dimensions as the fuel tank and mounting it behind the seat with the amps as well as 2- 8” subs. I ran a similar setup in my 70 back in high school in the late 90s and it sounded pretty decent.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 cool. I would suggest one of the modern low profile subs in a 12 or 13 inch. The slim subs have become quite good. I helped a guy with a C10 and determined that Stereo integrity BM12mkii subs facing the rear wall with the sub path opening directed to the passenger side.

Thank you

Hi Dean, the hinge and filler isn’t really my hang up. It’s easily routing the filler neck and hose to be easy to assemble and service in the future. Might have to just stare at it a while till something pops into my head. The sheet metal is from AMD but I can’t remember their source for all of it. There are a few suppliers they use. Thanks as always.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Curt, I completely understand future service as I like easy too. Think of curved, bent, mandrill bent pipe can place a short hose W/Clamp at easy access. Don't forget vent hose placed up into bedside with roll over valve that closes with liquid during refueling. This done right makes it easy out and no gas smell in the garage. I had the LS PCM reprogrammed to shut off EVAP testing but keep purge. Yes, I have a truck activated carbon canister in the back under the bed. This too allows for smooth fueling. Thinking out loud! It's yours, I am just butting in. Have a lucky one! DK

All sheet metal was purchased through Auto Metal Direct, can’t remember what Chinese brand the fenders were. I would say there were moderate issues with most panels but nothing too extreme. Some panels actually fit well while others needed substantial work. The only pieces that fell right in were the outer rocker panels.

Hello! Thanks for the encouragement! I just need to stay motivated and keep plugging away. Thanks for sticking with me.

I got most of my stuff from AMD and they resale mostly triplus. Both of my bedsides were boxed the same but clearly were made to different standards. One side was as good as OEM and the other side was not very good. It seems pretty hit and miss for me since about 2021. Honestly I’d just say pick one and deal with the fallout when you get your parts and do the corrections needed. There is of course the problem with shippers recently as well. I used to never get a damaged panel. Now half of the panels I get have some shipping damage.

Yes you can. It gets rock hard so you would normally paint over top of it. It’s actually kind of hard to sand compared to say body filler.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 thank you

...🤣😂probly needs to top the ps up.....gamer boy.

Thank you, much appreciated. There will definitely be plenty of C10 videos to come.

As long as you have a 1999 or later with the plastic fuel tank you are good to go.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 it’s 2001 🙏🏽

Good, if you’re offended by a T-shirt I wouldnt work for you.

You would have liked my original cut better, but I felt like I went too hard for some.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 lol that’s too funny

I wouldn’t recommend making a hole for the metal tanked Camaro. The pump is completely different and it has metal hard lines permanently attached to the pump that run forward at least a foot. You would have to make a pretty massive hole to fish that pump out. In those unfortunately I’d recommend dropping the tank.

Thank you.

No, I’m still in the middle of the entire project. Many times the pads that come with kits such as these are organic which dust a lot. I’d recommend trying a semi metallic or ceramic pad upgrade. That should take care of the problem.

Thank you! Much appreciated!

Thank you for watching and I hope your project turns out great as well.

Even after a few little tweaks mine is within a 1/4” or so in a few areas. Not sure what car they used for making sure these were good to go on a production run but I suppose I have seen stuff fit worse. I’m running poly engine and trans mounts, I feel like with factory rubber it would be a problem and need more modifications to work properly. I would like to try stainless works kit as their stuff has fit well on customer cars, problem with them is that I feel the price is too much for what it is.

@curtrobinsongarage5452 yeah, I wish I would have just went with kooks or SW as well. I did a complete build, engine and trans with all new mounts. I figured it would at least be better than speed engineering, but I was wrong lol.

Thank you! Starting on the bed now so hopefully not much longer.

Sorry to hear that. That’s the worst when you have to do anything twice. Hopefully all you had to do is a light sanding and re-spray.

@curtrobinsongarage5452 pretty much. Nothing i hate more than sanding inside of the cab.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 too much orange peel and ruff texture.

Yeah, Maggie won’t let me go to the shop without her, otherwise she has a melt down. Next step is get the bed into paint. Cheers 🍻

Yes my core support is original, and the aftermarket fenders don’t line up perfectly there will be a little elongation of some holes required for mine. When you say front clip on yours I’m hoping that includes a new core support as the 67-8 and the 69-72 core supports are different?

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 yep. New hood, fenders, doors, core support, and bed all the 68’ style with side markers.

It’s going to be like mine then. Just take your time, slot some of the holes if you need to for more adjustment. Usually if I get frustrated I’ll take a break for a day or 2 and usually come back with a solution. Good luck.

Hopefully you’re referring to the whole project. If so, as of right now I’m a little over 360 hours into it. Was planning on being between 500 and 600 total and I think that will still be accurate.

Then don’t drive

Unless you are the one working on the truck shut up because he knows what he’s talking about because he does it every day and every time an idiot like that screws up so @oldfarthacks no he will not be giving the guy a brake

The door I used was purchased from AMD but if I remember correctly it was marked Tri-plus. Personally all metal I got from them prior to 2020 was awesome, but since then it seems to be hit and miss. Some parts fit really well and some need a lot of work. It’s a supply issue for sure.

Thanks for the info. I'm not to far from the Dynacorn warehouse so I am going to pick some 69-71 blazer doors. I will let you know how they fit. @@curtrobinsongarage5452

Thank you, definitely going to keep messing around with it and see what works and what doesn’t.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 The Borla are 303 stainless, eliminate drone in the cab and come with a million mile warranty if you plan on keeping the truck. They have well done videos with good microphones.

I have never gambled but I will spend more money for a part(s) if I know they will last. I don't race either but will burn some rubber at some point as the go up in price. I bought dozens of high performance GM parts for my 1967 C10 as the 5.3L came from my son's Tahoe after black ice taught gave him a new experience and he towed to my backyard and told me to strip it. After building a stout stand I did a compression check, then a leakage check. Then with a SnapOn fuel gauge to check the regulator. After installing cleaning the injectors 5 times, I inspected the exhaust valves and seats and looked normal. Since I rebuild 4L60e transmissions and new the common failures, I built a 1987 era trans for overdrive fuel economy. I placed a NTC Thermistor in an unused bracket. Soldering it to an unused case wire, shrink wrapped it and ran to a well known brand gauge. Writing a service manual was my biggest chore as I did each circuit with, color, size, connector and cavity. The fuse size, location with a photo of each major it. If I am long gone and my family is near a small town with one shop, they can take a paper manual, index, page and photo listed with brand and part number (As it Changes) but a 95% of a part that is needed is on the shelf. I love your body work as in black looks like as mirror! This deserves high praise. I hope I can learn from you! God bless.

Most people can’t tell the difference sound wise. The main reason to use 1 7/8 headers over 1 3/4 in an LS motor is engine displacement and supporting mods such as camshaft and heads. Personally I would default to 1 7/8 for most applications unless your running 427 cubic inches or over then I would prefer to run 2” primary headers. From personal experience I feel like a stock LS1 or LS2 flows just fine through 1 3/4 primary headers. However if those same motors are running any power adders or even a moderate sized camshaft I would run 1 7/8 primary.

When it rains it pours, embrace it! Get better soon.

@@shaun9156 According to my wife, I will be abandoning my projects, selling equipment, 69 Roadster, truck and motorcycle. But you have the best of luck.

For the C10 I am thinking about using Borla Atak series except the idea of spending 500 on 2 mufflers sickens me. I’ve never used borla in the past and want to try something different. I may go with SLP or flowmaster, still undecided. The puppy is good she is turning into a well behaved dog, just need to keep up with her training. No baby just my 13 year old son that lives on RU-vid and Xbox. Hopefully you’re able to resolve the health issues, nothing is worse than not being able to be yourself due to medical issues. And last time I checked here concrete was over 300 a yard for 4000 psi and that is just the mud to do all the work yourself. To have a slab done by a contractor it’s 8-10 dollars a square ft and that’s only a 4” slab. Construction prices in my area are straight up bend over without lube, that’s what happens when your area has been “discovered” by people posting on social media and everyone suddenly wants to move here.

@@curtrobinsongarage5452 Sorry Curt to confuse you with a baby and not sons. My physical problems are forcing me to quit. I will continue to watch and thank for the work you do.

@@deankay4434 I’m sorry to hear that. I hope You’ll at least be able to do some things out in the garage on better days. Don’t sell anything that is really important to you no matter what. I would be willing to sell 75% of my stuff but there are a few things that I will take to the grave. Too many regrets from the past. Won’t make those mistake again. Unfortunately can’t go back in time.