Really like what you've done so far and thanks for taking the time to go into some detail about what you've done and how you did it.....along with future plans. I have my eye on a step side and trying to negotiate a sale.....keep you posted.
Thanks for the comments, move videos to come for sure. Good luck on your negotiating, they are collectibles for sure. I also foresee the 73-87 square bodies going up substantially in value in the near future.
Nice.I have a 67 c10 step side and it's coming along too.but I too mostly just stander build.new 350 I like the height that it's at.i don't have to worry about rubber or anything missing up the bottom side.like your video.thanks
Thank you for Headers info... I just ordered mine! Seems as NONE of the parts sellers know that (D314) fit well... TY!!!! Mine is a 1970 c10 LS3 4L80 installed and waiting on rear end to be done 12-bolt 4.11 Tru trac! When I stated my build I thought no bilgy I will just do some of this and thats.. BUT I soon found out it NEVER ENDS!! HAHAHAHA.. Your build is looking great!
Your right it ends up snowballing to no end. Thanks for the comments and I hope yours ends up exactly how you want it. I’ll try to show all the aftermarket stuff I put on in future videos for everyone wanting it and the part numbers. I also wish I did a video when I did my rear end. I used an Eaton trutrac as well but re used my factory GM 3.73 gears. It’s really not hard to set up a rear end if you have a dial indicator. With the GM rear ends it just takes a lot of time assembling and disassembling getting the shimming correct for pinion spacing and ring gear backlash.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 I used my old rear end too! Took it end and had it renewed…Put 5x5 lugs so I can get Intros I was wanting with 22x10 22x9… are you going to do coilovers? Front? Back? I did rears.. front is next but I wanted to drive it the summer then tear it apart AGAIN!
@@ASAPCarpetCleaning So I kept with the coil spring setup but used hotchkiss lowering springs all around. Tried to keep the cost down to help in other areas. I don’t have my wheels yet but will be using 20” front and rear. I initially wanted to get a set of Muroc IV’s from Budnik wheels but at about $1500 a wheel I probably won’t be able to. Still so much to buy for this project and prices keep going up and up. I just got a quote for my base and clear coat from my paint distributor and I’m still in shock.
@@curtrobinsongarage5452 I feel ya! My paint job cost 17K So I know the feeling... I finished my truck a couple years ago and now just doing the facelift! LS3/4L80, Intros, rear end, front and rear coil overs... I did all ride tech front and back but didn't do coil overs.. Now just trying to get a better ride...Thank you for taking time out.
Quality work by all quality guy! Nice work on your project so far and I few suggestions as I am into my 67 with a factory panoramic rear window as an option from the Fremont Plant in CA. Anyone putting these classic American steel back onto the road, is ok in my book! It’s been 50 years but my first vehicle was a 1965 C10 Apache with wood bed, 283 cu in with 2 speed automatic. The dash was “Fawn” metallic.
Cool build! Subscribed. Looking forward to the build! I have my '68 C10 longbed in my driveway getting ready to go under the knife so to speak. I've had it since Sept 2003, and I decided that it's finally time to rebuild it how I want it. There's no way that I could do a heater delete as that I'm living in northeast Utah. It gets cool up in the mountains, even in the summer. But I had noticed that you have Utah license plates hanging up on the wall above your garage door. Are you down in south Utah?
Thanks, I am in southern Utah but I’m not doing a heater delete, I just cleaned up the firewall. I will be installing a vintage air HVAC unit. I still want heat and A/C. This truck did not have factory A/C so it was an easy choice to go with an after market unit and modify the firewall.
Very nice build so far. VERY clean fab work. I am getting ready to drop a 5.3 in a 69 and was wondering what motormount/perches you used. I want to keep the factory 5.3 AC compressor and your mounts look like they may be the ticket. Also, you happen to remember the PN for those headers? I like that the tuck up in the frame so well.
Thank you, the headers are Doug’s #D314, and the tubular mounts are performance online for 68-72 c10s and you use the poly motor mounts for a 68-72 Chevelle. Depending on your engine setback I still don’t know if you can use the factory compressor, Holley sells a mini sanden compressor and mounts in the factory location using the factory belt location but a smaller compressor, I’ll be using that one in a future video.
Looks good. Working on a 69 Fleetside. Stuck on exhaust. I have the Doug's headers also routing exhaust pipes and mufflers have me scratching my butt. 350 Turbo 400 Overdrive CPP itsamoney bucket and I don't care.
Rockers and cab corners perfect. Bed was good. Tailgate was fair. Fenders were fair to good. Door was pathetic. However I still believe AMD carries some of the best parts in the industry. The problem I noticed is since Covid 2020 the quality from China is getting worse and worse. Everything I got pre 2020 was great on multiple projects. Everything after 2021 is a coin toss.
Yes I did consider doing a similar shave of the drip rail that Joe Martin did on his black C10 build on Iron Ressurection. But decided against it due to the time involved. I’m into the cab enough hours that I’m going to keep it. Although I may or may not do flush mount glass in the front and rear.
I have the exact same project going on. Do you know what part number the headers are? I'm currently looking for some that fit and yours are exactly what I need.
Made it and the fan delete and extension from sheet metal to match the firewall curve on the drivers side. I’ll post a similar how to when I fill the marker holes and bed stale pockets soon.
