Last few weeks I didn't have too much time to work on this project plus I was a little bit suck with the gap on the left side of the hood/bonnet. I wasn't sure how to proceed, but eventually I found a solution.
Like rusty holes that were patched with overlaid metal, hammered down and smoothed with body filler. I already removed the filler on one of them and found a mess underneath. That's at the rear deck where it mates with the fender. The line was so wavy there was a 3/16 gap between the two panels in some areas. I will get there in my video series and you will see what I am talking about. Good thing I know where the holes were and I will revise all the repairs.
Elin, you do a great job in your thoughtful dissection of a problem like this fender fitting. Thanks for your great posts on the restoration process. Keep up the good work!
I like to analyze the problem before I try to fix it. And I like to show my way of thinking so I get corrected if I am wrong. I am sick and tired of "specialists" who make an assumption based on quick look at the problem, spend time and money fixing what is not broken, the problem remains and they blame somebody or something else. I've seen this story over and over again for the last 3 years and I don't want to be one of these "professionals"
I love the way you are tackling these alignment issues on this car and on the Spitfire Mk II. But knowing how poor British car engineering was back in the 1970's by the time you have finished it will be better than it was when it came out of the factory! I've enjoyed all of your videos so far, keep up the great work.
It was a good job the fender was bolted rather than welded to the body....as usual Elin your skills and capabilities are unquestionable.....keep up the good work. If we don't hear from you in the next week or so can I wish you and your family a happy Christmas......see you again in 2017 🇨🇦🇬🇧
My experience is that every time I fit a fender it has moved yet again. I rebuild my body shells with new or undamaged sheetmetal, and even they gave fit issues, but you are coming in behind the workmanship of others, and who knows what you've got to begin with. My personal advice to anyone in this situation is be bold as you are and start working...bolt down the entire part firmly, don't just hang it on a bolt or two, and...beware a previously repaired front valance. No end of heartache there. Great attitude and technique, Tally ho Elin!
Thanks, Randall! Yes, I find it harder to work on cars that have already been "restored" , because I have to undo many things that weren't done right before I do them again. Some parts were modified and hard to bring them back to the original shape (like the trimmed doors on the 73 TR6 for example). I would rather work on a very rusty, never restored car than hunting for hidden traps under nicely finished surfaces. Your TR6 is coming along nicely too. It is pleasure to watch a real craftsman working! Lots to learn from you.
Thanks for a another great video,,,, I found out why my tr6 compression was so low,,,,some fool installed a triumph GT6 crank in it... The gt6 has a 2.99 stroke Tr6 has a 3.40. I believe... So I hope it will be completed within the next two weeks.
Elin, great job, i really like your approach to everything, well thought out. I would never have thought to cut a good fender to make it fit but it appears to have been the best route, bravo. I just watched your video on the trailing arm box units as i have a frame which needs these replaced. I was thinking of the best way to keep the current geometry intact and the frame square. I will be using your approach as it seems to be much more simplistic then what I was thinking. Cannot wait to see your progress. Have an awesome and safe new year. Gene
Thank you, Gene! Probably there is a better way to fix that fender, but I am still learning. And I don't have a teacher, so I try and hope it works :) About the frame repair I tried to find useful video in RU-vid, but to be honest all the videos out there are.... not very helpful should I say, so I had to come up with something myself and I think that worked well. We just bought another TR6 with rusted frame again, but this time at the front (maybe everywhere else as well, but I couldn't see), so that will be another challenge. Hopefully I will be able to salvage it! Happy New Year to you too!
Yeah, it is possible. It came from another car, so I don't know much about it. But it is also possible that it came like that from the factory. I've heard stories about workers matching the panels in the factory in different batches. Like "these hoods go with these fenders only and these fenders go with these doors only, but not the ones over there" Not sure if it is true LOL
Wow. So your TDC was .375 lower.... Was it running at all? I am glad you found the problem. Once fixed, having in mind the body is great you will have a perfect car for the spring.
It ran,,,but had no power at all,,,even to drive it up on the trailer I had to take a bit of. Run at it... So looking a forward to getting it on the road.
It is not mine ONLY. It is a common project with my boss. The plan was to refresh and sell it, but when I started working on the car I kept digging deeper and deeper, just because I couldn't leave some obvious issues unfixed and soon we found ourselves in the middle of a ground up restoration. We still plan to sell it when it is ready, but I suspect it will become the next "I don't really wan't to sell it" project :)
