I have that same exact motor its cool to see an otheone still running. I got mine this year and put it on a 12foot v bottom. It is like new . I can't believe they are that old mine still starts 1st pull. I had never seen one before . It only weighs about 15 pounds .
Congratulations on your motor! They're really lightweight and impressively strong. Nice little kickers. Different than what I'm used to working on but pretty simple. Thanks for watching!
I bought one of those in 1982. Mounted it on the back of a square stern canoe. $225 brand new. The dealer said that those were built by Mercury. I believe that some parts are interchangeable .
This would make a great little canoe motor. The Mariner brand was sold by Mercury Marine. These particular motors were built in Japan by Yamaha for Mercury Marine to be sold under the Mariner brand. Seems to be a well built and reliable little motor considering its price point and light weight. Thanks for watching!
In one of the previous comments you mentioned that the carburetor was very similar to that of your daughters 40cc four wheeler. Is it similar enough that I could replace it with the four wheeler carburetor? What is the brand of the four wheeler? Could you give me a step by step outline of how you cleaned the carburetor? I already tried cleaning mine but it did not work very well. Also how do you adjust the float level? Thanks, Nicolas
Just picked one up for 40 dollars I just replaced the coil pack tho and it’s running nice , very light with a full tank it weights about the same as my 45 troller
That was a good score even having to replace a coil. They're very light weight and quite peppy for such a small engine. I was fairly impressed with this one when I worked on it. Congratulations on your new motor amd thanks for watching!
Cool! I was given a similar motor branded Johnson 2hp. On my 14ft flat bottom with just me sitting in the middle of the boat and no gear it will plane the boat off and push 10mph! Sweet little motor.
Very cool! They are quite strong for 2hp. That is impressive to get 10mph out of it even on an empty flat bottom jon. I'm really happy with a 5.5 hp OMC when I can get 10mph on my 14 footer (semi vee). Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 rot - I have a 2 hp Johnson & it will Not plane a 10 footer. ! 6hp maybe but not 2hp & I've built boats & designed them - only way it would Plane is by a tidlewave - sorry. Trev.
@@trevking3772 I bet it wouldn't plane a 10 footer. I couldn't plane a 10 foot jon at all with myself at the tiller. I had one with an 8hp rating and with a 10hp on it, I still couldn't get it to push over the bow wave. With 6hp, even sitting in the middle of the boat it wouldn't plane. I have a 14 foot semi vee that I can plane with my 4hp Merc twin cylinder. Short boats are not necessarily easy to get on plane. Since you have designed and built boats, I'm sure you understand that. Thanks for watching!
Yes, I put blue colorant in the pond twice a year, especially when the water is low to help control aquatic vegetation. I just put the spring dose in the pond last weekend. The pond is much lower this spring than it has been I'm previous years. We didn't get much snow over the winter and it has been a dry spring so far. Thanks for watching!
I absolutely hate these motors! I got one myself and it actually was my first outboard. So yeah, I gotta love it for starting the whole antique outboard hobby for me, but that's about all. Thing has never been anything but a pain in the but for me. I'm sure they're good motors and I just got a bad one, but I still hate them. I will never trust these like I would trust my Yamaha C5 or my old Evinrudes and Johnsons. I'm glad you got some more luck with it, it runs very sweet :)
VintageOutboardMan I see only a couple reasons to own one of these. The first is if you frequent a place where you have to carry the motor a long distance to get to your boat. The second is for a back up motor to toss in the boat when testing other motors in case of a breakdown. I certainly don't get the joy out of running it like I do my Johnson, Evinrudes, or even Mercurys. I did find it to be a neat little outboard though when I worked on it. Not much to them. The owner is VERY happy to.have it running again. Thanks for watching!
My litte Yamaha/ Mariner 2HP is the compleete opposite of yours. it starts always first pull and runs smothand strong. 10 Year sago i started boating with the same engine branded as Yamaha, that one i bought was compleete scrap... I was frustrared, so i found a same one branded MAriner. The old man who was selling it was a retired engineer, and he took care of it very well. He also tuned a little by smoothing the ports etc. I think your engine has a CDI or a seal ring Problem, thats the only fails these can have...
@@floborgenhagen5342 Well, the impeller is an absolute pain in the butt to replace. At least on the P45 model. I don't know if it's the same for the 2A and 2B model. To replace the impeller on a P45 you'll have to remove the plate behind the prop that will give you access to the gears. Then you'll have to remove the gear from the driveshaft by removing a little clip (fun job when you're hands are all wet from all the gear oil that's dripping out). Next, you can pull out the driveshaft and remove the impeller by sliding it down (instead of upwards like on every other outboard) on the driveshaft. If you compare this to replacing the impeller on a Suzuki 2hp the difference is night and day. I don't know why they had to make it this hard to service, my Yamaha 5C is a fantastic motor and easy to service too. In my opinion the only good thing about the 2hp Yamaha is its extremely low weight (even compared to other small 2hp models like the Suzuki).
The parts availability for new parts is not very good for these. Most everything has gone NLA. Thankfully, I did not have to replace any parts on this one. It just needed fuel lines and a good carburetor cleaning and it was back in business. Thanks for watching!
The smaller Mercury and Mariner motors (below 90hp or so) were built by Yamaha for a period of time from maybe the very late 1980s for quite a few years. I don't know the exact time, but that is true. The small Mercury motors are built by Tohatsu today and have been for some time. Thanks for watching!
My first thought is low compression. There is no way to really know without looking it over myself, but low compression will allow a motor to run with no backpressure (out of the water). When the motor is in the water and the exhaust leg is filled halfway up, sometimes it won't have enough power to overcome the backpressure generated by the water column. Thanks for watching.
If I remember correctly, there is nothing preventing this motor from being tilted up as long as it is not turned around for reverse. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I will try again tomorrow. Today I tried but it did not lift upwards that much. I needed to pull the boat almoast completely out from water to be able to get the rotor out of water.
Hello Sir, I found the correct adjustments for the float, It totally make sense what you say, although my friend got a similar motor and he told me his motor does not do it ., my feeling at this stage on my motor the float is not attached to the needle for the needle and seat mechanism it is laying loose in the bowl and when you tilt the motor the float position change slightly and maybe let the seat open and the fuel will spill in the boat. I will do some checks to confirm my statement, may be I am wrong but I want to get a float what is fixed to the seat mechanism. Thank you very much for your fast reply Kind Regards
Jameson Serfontein Yes, these floats are just loose in the bowl. If you are familiar with another motor that is not doing this, there is certainly a possibility that something is different with yours and it can somehow be made to not do this. If your motor dumps more fuel than what is in the float bowl, then there is an issue with the float valve not shutting fuel flow off as it should. These carbs with the float loose in the bowl that ride on a pair of prongs to close the valve seem to have a greater tendency to hang up than a hinged float in my limited experience with them. My daughter has a small ATV with a very similar carburetor. I have had to work on that carburetor many times to keep it working. Good luck. Let me know what you find.
Hi great video, I got a motor like this very reliable but I got one problem and hope you will be able to assist with the problem,please.As soon as I tilt the motor, fuel will spill in the boat.I do not think this is normal, how can I fix it.needle seat is good.Will you be able to also assist with the correct float level specification/measurements ,please.
Jameson Serfontein Unfortunately, there is not much that can be done about the carburetor float bowl draining out the front of the carb when the motor is tilted forward. If there is fuel in the bowl at a level high enough to pour out when tilted it will. The only way I know of to avoid this is to turn off the fuel supply from the tank and close the vent on the cap long enough before shutting the engine off to use up most of the fuel in the bowl. I do not have any specs on the float level setting. As long as it is running properly and not starving or flooding, I think your float level is fine. I hope this helps. Thanks for watching!
The water sprays out the exhaust relief holes in the back of the tower between the powerhead and the waterline. It's just a mist. There is no actual tell tale stream on this motor. Thanks for watching!
Much faster. 35lb thrust Minn Kota on this boat with me and a battery moves at 2-3mph if it is dead calm. This motor will push me along at around 5-6mph. Thanks for watching!
.Hi mate, wondering if you have any idea why my Suzuki 2 hp will not start.,a bit about the background. Just bought it, it is from 1988, brand new never been used, so l thought won't be a problem starting. First, l sprayed some storage stuff in the cylinder because it could be really dried out. So a good few sprays of lubrication. put in 25 to 1 what is recommended for first 5 hrs. made sure fuel switched to 0 which is on. undone the screw under carburetor bowl, there was oily fuel, so getting through to that point. put on start procedure pulled many times nothing. checked plug a few times looked wetish. l am thinking may have sprayed too much lubrication in the cylinder, but when l pull without plug in, nothing splurting out. l have tried the idle screw like someone said 1 and a half turns. The position from the factory seemed to be 4 and a half turns out from all the way in. do l need to take the carburetor off next? l thought brand new engine, this is ridiculous, but sitting for 32 years.
It should start even if you got a bit too much storage lubricant in it. Maybe not as easily, but it should still start. I find it odd that "0" is the ON position for the fuel. "I" is usually the symbol for on and "0" is OFF. If you know it is getting fuel to the carburetor but it won't fire, have you checked the spark? Will it fire if you put a shot of fuel mix into the cylinder? Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 HI there,the o is definately the on, l also thought that is strange, it is right and tested uncrewing the fuek bowl under carberetor,pored out in 0 postion and turned off and stopped. l have not even got it close to starting,completely dead. How do you test the spark again ? Dont you think its strange that l will need to take the carb apart and clean. Its new, and 32 years old ,but not had any fuel through it before.
@@swedishkev It's good that you verified the on position of the fuel valve. You check the spark be removing the spark plug and preferably using an open air spark checker grounded to the engine and connected to the spark plug wire. Set the gap at around 1/4-5/16" and pull the starter rope. You should see a bright blue spark jump the gap of the tester. You can hold the plug against the block with it connected to the wire too, but just because it jumps a 0.030" gap in open air doesn't mean it will under compression. The float valve may be sticking in the carburetor even though it has never had fuel in it. The float valve can be a little finicky in these carbs anyway, and it may have gotten a bit of moisture in it over all those years of sitting and become stuck. Time can do more damage than we think sometimes. Its certainly worth a look inside. They're pretty simple carburetors.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Thanks, l have no checker.l will just let the sparkplug touch the block and see that way then. looks like taking carb apart. wish l could find a vid on this particular engine,but there is none. Of course the tick over screw ,l have lost its original position. l thought it might be that according to another utube vid, where the guy said that it shoud sit between 1.25 to 1.7 turns anticlockwise from fully screwed in. to run right. and it was much more turned outwards on the original factory position. so now lost exact position.
@@swedishkev Not sure of the position of the low speed mixture screw, but i would start with it about 2 turns out and adjust from there. My guess is that the 1.25-1.7 turns out is a correct range, but some motors are different. 4 turns is almost certainly excessive even if that is where it was having never run outside of a likely factory test.
@@quadfin5155 Your local Mercury Outboard dealer should be able to order one if they don't stock it. Also, Marineengine.com has them. Thanks for watching!
Somthing in the top of the engine isn't letting water through so it over heats tomarro my dad and I will take it apart more but do you have any other suggestions
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Strange that yours is 50:1. I have the Yamaha 2b which is essentially the same motor and it has a little sticker on it stating a 100:1 mix ratio.
@@6___________99_____________64 I would never recommend 100:1 mix ratio in anything. OMC also had the 100:1 stickers on their motors in the late 1980s. They ended up replacing a great many powerheads under warranty during this period and any that came in for service had the stickers removed and a notice went out to use only 50:1 premix. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I agree with you that it is an extremely lean mix ratio and doesn't leave much room for error however I have generally followed Yamaha's guidelines and luckily have not run into any issues, although I do throw in a extra bit of oil in for good luck 😉 Oh by the way I've just checked the receipt and mine is a 1984
@@6___________99_____________64 In my opinion 100:1 mix ratio is already an error on the part of the factory. I believe that recommendation was there to get the majority of them to live past the warranty period before they wore out. 8oz of oil in a 6 gallon tank of gasoline is simply not enough to provide adequate lubrication. If you choose to follow that recommendation it is certainly your choice. I would not do it. Adding that bit of extra oil can't do anything but help. This motor did not have any stickers on it and any modern full roller bearing outboard of this era will run perfectly fine on 50:1 with no lubrication issues nor any fouling issues. 👍
I owned one the carb would flood out just about every time you transported it and put it on the boat. The carb design incorporating the cover isn't a good idea and was the reason I got rid of it.
eastcoastadventurous Well, this isn't my motor and I have not transported it more than a few hundred feet on the boat. I would certainly recommend closing the tank vent, turning the fuel valve off and running the carburetor dry before transporting any outboard with a built in fuel tank. I didn't see anything wrong with the design of the carburetor or the cover for what it is. The cover is connected and is part of the intake silencer, but is a separate piece that attaches to the carburetor. That design may have changed for other years. Thanks for watching.
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 I’ve used one of these since I was 8, it is a great little motor. If you shut the fuel off it won’t even spill a drop of fuel even if you don’t run it out of gas, but when the valve is open (I’ve done this by accident on numerous occasions) it turns into a gas fountain! Thanks for making such great videos!
@@lakeboat1639 I did notice it would leak it I tipped it up too high with the fuel on and a full carburetor. I expected that though. It is good to know that they will not leak if the valve and vent are closed. I thought it was a neat little motor. It would make an excellent motor for a canoe, a backup, or if you had to portage any distance. Thanks for watching!
It may not be running as fast as it is supposed to at full throttle. I have nothing to compare it to. I do know that it vibrates quite a lot at full throttle so I can't imagine how it would be if it were running at a higher RPM. It does sound a little slow though. If I ever get the chance to run another one of these I'll compare it. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 awesome man thanks for the reply , have you ever had a problem with this engine not pumping water? ive just fitted a brand new impeller to mine but its not pumping a thing … all the water jacket & impeller pipe have been cleaned out & are free of any blockage but still no joy
@@SaltyMcBoatFace I did not have any problems with this motor pumping water. The impeller was still in good shape when I worked on this one. I did not hear of the owner having any problem with that either. Is the water tube grommet on the pump housing still sealing properly? Is the pump housing sealing against the wear plat properly? Is there anything blocking the water intake?
kramden I thought it was a Yamaha. It's a super lightweight, simple, and decent running outboard. Would be excellent if you needed to carry the motor a long distance to the boat. The carburetor is nearly identical to the one on my daughter's little 40cc 4-wheeler. I've had it apart many times to keep it working so this thing felt like home to work on. It's not something I'd go out of my way for, but wouldn't be a bad little back up motor to carry in the boat. Thanks for watching Don!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 couple of Litres , i have NOS 1980 version in original shipping box still running-in , less 1 hours use in Fresh water - wonder what its value is tofay( sorry: had massive Stroke @ 57 yrs & can"t use it now. Foolproof but 1hp tas tanaka had More thrust maybe 2.5hp even bettet ?. Trev.
@@trevking3772 I hat to say it like this, but your motor is worth what someone who wants it is willing to pay for it. In my area I would estimate its value at around $600-$700 to the right buyer. Advertising it as NOS if it has ever been run since it left the factory after its test run is misleading. Some people do get very sensitive about the NOS label. You do have a VERY low hour example, the likes of which do not show up often. They're great little motors, especially for someone looking for a portable motor that will need to be carried for a distance. It will need to be gone over and at least need a new water pump impeller since that one has been in place for over 40 years. Minor job for anyone that does their own work. Anyone can learn to do it, but most shops will not touch a motor that old anymore. Thanks for watching!
@@oldjohnnyrude8404 Your talking to a marine engineer who's just had a Massive stroke @57 yrs. Its had less than 1 hrs total running. - In its Factory carton it looks mint. It "Pe*s water in steady stream so w/pump fine even if "Old" it was "winterised" correctly with rubber lube ( old trick ). Its Not worth what some low-baller offers - its a meusem piece looks & runs showroom. Thanks. Trev.
PS & they got run at factory . Your telling me something i already know - its your thread, but under an hours running infresh water its Not even run in .Doubt you'll 1 better. Its not misleading to call it NOS where i live. Thanks again. Trev pps Mariner or manufacter in Japan are desparate to buy it back so up workshops considering too old to work on. Thats ageism Thks.
I would never recommended 100:1 mix in a premix 2-stroke. OMC tried this for a few years in the late 1980s and replaced a LOT of powerheads under warranty because of it. They later released a service bulletin stating that any of those motors that came to a service center for service have the 100:1 sticker removed and the owner be informed to always use 50:1 premix. I know this is not an OMC product. That is only an example of why i would not recommended a mix that dry. Thanks for watching !
@@Waytogodavid If it will not run without the choke on the main carburetor jet / orifice is partially clogged. The carburetor will need to be removed and thoroughly cleaned. When storing the motor long term,, always drain the fuel out of the carburetor to prevent varnish and corrosion from happening inside. I would clean the fuel system as well as the carburetor so you know you will not be pulling more garbage into the carburetor after you clean it. Once it is cleaned, it should run properly again.
I.must respectfully disagree woth your statement. Mercury owns the Mariner name / trademark, but they are not one and the same. While Merc did build many of the Mariner outboards they did not build them all. Mercurt marketed their own as well as some other manufacturers outboards under the Mariner label. This one I still stand by being a Yamaha-built motor. It is the identical motor under the graphics as this one. images.app.goo.gl/f4h4MYwfs3Ap4Tjw8 This motor may have had a 100:1 recommendation from the factory. I had no manual and it had no markings left on it anywhere that would indicate fuel mix ratio. I don't run 100:1 in anything. Thanks for watching!
