You sir, are the Bob Ross of Airhead instruction videos. Incredibly thorough and calming, you help me approach a procedure confidently and well informed.
Wally, Thank you for your kind words. I hope the videos and the links in the video summaries to my website's detailed information about each bit of work will help you keep your airhead running for years to come.
Very clear Brook. I’m just a couple of months ahead of you but will check my cable routing after looking at yours. Had same fiddle with cable junction box. Luckily no emission stuff on Euro bike airboxes.
Thanks, Brook! Lots of useful information here as I have exactly the same type of bike, a 1983 R100 RS. And this winter I'm going to change the fuel line that goes under the air box, as it's pretty rotten. Never been changed. Luckily I have the European version of the RS, and not the US version, so the extra tubing is not there. Simplifies things. Thanks again!🙂
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@@BrooksAirheadGarage Everything went as planned until I tried starting the bike... Starter is cooked....oh the joys of owning a 79’ R100RS... have you refurbished a starter before? Any suggestions?
@@chrisfitchett7645 I did rebuild a Bosch starter and you can see the details here: --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1977-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/12-bmw-r100rs-refurbish-starter-motor/ You can get all the parts at Euro MotoElectrics (www.euromotoelectrics.com). They also sell a replacement Valeo starter motor that is a very good value and highly recommended if you want to replace yours rather than rebuild it.
Brook, I have a 1991 R100GSPD and have researched, ad nauseam, recipes for an engine upgrade. Yours is the only source with enough detail that I would feel comfortable enough to follow. What were the noticeable or measurable gains and were they, in your opinion “good value?” What, if any, changes would you make to your recipe? Thank you for your contributions.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Brook: I hope you don't mind but I do have a couple of questions: 1) it appears that the tire sizes on the R100RS are the same as on my nice old Yamaha XS650s: (3:25-19 front and 4:00-18 rear) - but most guys are using modern metric sizes which are: 100/90-19 front and 120/90-18 rear. Do you have any experience using those metric sizes on your bikes? The selection of brands is much wider for the metric sizes and some day it would be handy to know (I have been using Michelin Pilot Activs on the Yamahas). 2) do you know of a good source for decals for the R100RS? In my experience, these are often deteriorated on older bikes and I am sure that somebody, somewhere has reproduced them - but who? Cheers, Peter
@@assessor1276 1) I have been using inch size tires, so I have no experience with metric "almost" sizes. The Michelin Pilot Activ come in 3.25x19 and 4.00x18 as I have them mounted on my 1977 RS. 2) My source for airhead reproduction decals is Gian Maria at Heritage Stickers (heritagestickers@gmail.com), (www.heritagestickers.eu/). They are perfect. He lives in Italy.
Did you replace the diaphragms? I remember people wondering why their bike was running poorly and a lot of the time it was a hole in the diaphragm. My /6 I put 114,000 mi. on it and I replaced the diaphragms on one of my winter maintenance times some were around 50,000 mi. Thanks for the nice video, I always learn something!!
What a quality video, very helpful. Thank you so much for posting this. I see lots of videos from others that are helpful but your detail is what makes these so good. Do you have a video on setting float heights. I have read they can become heavier over time and as mine are probably original I will replace them over winter. I have an 1981 R65LS which is frisky in all gears but in top it bogs down at 65 to 70mph I have read float height and weight are the first things to check. I am off to watch more of your videos. 👍👏👍👏
Ninja Badger, I too suspect your floats are sinking. New ones make sense. This article by Bob Fleischer (aka Snowbum) has all the information about the two methods of setting the float height: (1) checking when fuel flows through the float needle, (2) setting float height based on fuel height in float bowl. --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/bingcv-2.htm
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks very much for your reply. It must have been some of this info I had read on forum's which people had quoted. Your videos are so addictive. 👍
eulate, please go to my website, and you will find several documents on the 1983 R100RS brake system, including: 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Brembo Brake Calipers 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Disassemble, Inspect & Rebuild Master Cylinders 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Front Brake System 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Install Rear Brake System 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove Brake System 34 BMW 1983 R100RS Remove, Refinish, Install Disk Brake Rotors This is a link to the complete list of rebuild documents for that bike: brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/ At the bottom of the document you find links to all the brake systems articles I listed above.
Hi Brook! A boatload of mice ate and defecated in the airbox of my bike so I did my very best to clean it up. That being said the "pumps" for the pulse air system are pretty much trashed. I could potentially get rid of them as well. Can you explain why you decided to get rid of yours?
Quinn, Yes, I removed the pulse air system as it overheats the exhaust valves which already run too hot if the original valve seats are still installed. I show how I did that work on my web site in this document: brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/13-bmw-1983-r100rs-update-pulse-air-system/
@@BrooksAirheadGarage I am fairly sure I still have the original valve seats. That being said I'll definitely check out the website and look into eliminating the pulse system
Really nice video! Could you tell me where you got the Bing "book" with the nice tables for the carburetor settings? That'd be really helpful! Greetings from Germany!
Yacine, I'm not sure what you are asking for. There is a link under the video to my website with all the details about this work. You can print that off if that information is what you are asking for.
@@yacinekhen7739 you can purchase the book from Bing Agency. www.bingcarburetor.com/cv-motorcycle.html The manual is shown near the bottom of the page.
Hi greetings from Scotland.Thank you, great detail for me a newbie to mechanics.I have a Bmw r100rt year 1993 can you suggest any downloadable resources for an electrical wiring diagrame as I am stuck without a plan to follow.Richard.
Hi Richard, I don't know of any but you may find Bob Fleischer's (aka "Snowbum") web site useful. He has posted a lot of detail about airheads and the electrical systems in particular. Here is a place to start: --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/boxerelectrics.htm You can also look through his index page which connects to all his web postings: --> bmwmotorcycletech.info/technical-articles-list.htm Bob's content is encyclopedic and can be dense so you may have to wade the text more than once to pull out the parts specific to your year/model. That said, he has collected an enormous amount of airhead information in one place. I would suggest you purchase a Haynes or Clymer manual that covers your year. They include electrical diagrams. That said, these manuals have errors in the diagrams, but they can get you started and Bob's information often fills in more details sufficient for you to solve whatever problem you are having. I hope this helps.
The booklet Classic Boxer Charging by Rick Jones of Euro MotoElectrics has the most important (unless making modifications) charging system basic diagrams and fantastic for the airhead beginner that I was 15 years ago. His understanding has led to major tested and confirmed enduralast upgrades.available that have been for me reliable and practically maintenanc free.
Hey Brook I have a question? I have a 78 Airhead! Looking at the air filter cover there is a hole at the top. On some earlier bikes I have seen wire coming out of that whole. What is that hole for?
Hi Jupiter, If I recall, the '78 used the earlier "clam shell" covers and a cylindrical air cleaner. My clam shell covers on the 1973 R75/5 and 1975 R75/6 didn't have any hole in the top of the clam shells.
Hi Matt. TIP: Patience is a virtue. :-) The video shows how I did it. I installed the handlebar cable first then the left and right carburetor cables. It was a tight fit when installing the carburetor cables. I mention that I had to cock the plug enough to get the ferrule on the carburetor cable into the slot in the plug. The original handlebar cable had a longer inner cable than my new replacement cable which lead to the difficulty installing the carburetor cables.
Dave, You can get lighter throttle return springs. Try the Beemer Shop (www.beemershop.com/). Also, you can use the throttle friction screw to help hold the throttle without much force from your wrist. I do that when riding all day as much of the time I'm holding constant throttle and speed.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Thanks, I have a 1981 R65, seems they don't have any for this model. The 1995 R80RT that I had a while ago didn't have this problem. Maybe it had a different cam on the twistgrip? Anyway at 54 dollars shipping to Germany, I'll give it a miss.
