You are a tremendous resource to the community. I am literally rebuilding an R100T from '79 right now! Thank you, this is incredibly useful. I learnt a lot from your m-unit setup as well. Keep 'em coming!
Thanks man, that's great to here. This comment alone makes all the hours edditing worth it. After the Vespa build I'm going back to a BMW build, but not an R or K100 this time. So new content coming up!!
I like the way the video is designed. Nobody shouts at me, no booming music, no frills. Thank you very much for this video. Subscribed to the channel! Best regards
Great video on the build. Regular fuel (gas) is high fire risk as a cleaner. Older electric drills have armature brush’s that can arc and ignite the fuel.
I rebuild this engine for a client. He want to go this far into the rebuild as shown. He told me the valves, springs and seats had been replaced earlier. On all my own builds I rebuild the heads, piston rings, gearbox etc. Those videos are on my channel as well 👍🏼
Great video.. thank you so much for the really well filmed and explained rebuild.. I have an r100/7 sitting under a tarp waiting.. as soon as I get time to work on it..!
Jij bent bloody awesome, mate. I'm a BMW bike fan (not so much the cars), presently owning a 1200GS. As a retirement project I want to rebuild a R100 so this has given me many useful pointers. Keep on sharing :).
Well that's the best feedback I could wish fore. R100's are badass bikes to build, love them. There's a lot more R100 (how-to) content on my channel, just check it out 👍🏼
man perfect timing on this video, i'm midway through the teardown on my R100rt and have found the manual a bit lacking for a few things. Super helpful my man! I can't wait for all my gaskets and seals to get here so I can finish the disassembly and put it all back nice and fresh.
@@corner.custom thanks brother! keep up the good work! And yeah, the black and white pictures in the printed book are sometimes a bit hard to follow. Been marking stuff up with notes as I go for the next time i crack it open to make life easier
Beautiful and well done, I own two airheads and love every time I ride them, I liked the way you did this job, Congratulations from Bethany Oklahoma! Frank.
Thanks man! There's a lot more airhead content on my channel which you probably like as well. And maybe, hopefully I've got another R build coming my way as well 👍🏼
@@reddevil258 This was the fourth time rebuilding an R engine, but the first time it was very helpful to me for using the technical drawings from realoem.com. I also showed that in the video when ordering the parts
Just discovered your channel. Superb. I have a r100s that I have converted to a cafe racer - your videos will be a huge help for maintenance and upgrades! 👍🏻😃
Super filmpje. Wel een tip: gebruik keramisch vet voor de uitlaatmoeren ipv kopervet. Kopervet kan met het aluminium reageren en net vast komen te zitten :)
Great video and right on time ;) I just finished painting all the engine parts of my R100 engine.. same year as yours! 1979 Now I can use your video as reference so I do not forget anything ;)
@@corner.custom Yes building it back up and watching other people building one up :) How did you set the depth of the Pushrod Tubes and what value did you use? I’m also replacing mine with the stainless steel ones since mine where a bit crusty. I see some conflicting information here and there. Brooke uses 1.75mm from bottom of the cylinder to bottom the tube. I measured mine before removing them since I think they are still sort of at the distance when it came from the factory. Mine where between 0.25 - 0.6 I’m a bit hesitant to use brookes numbers. Did you measure the distance before you removed them? Since both our engines are from the same year I’m curious about what they where.
@@pjpankras I measured/compared the stainless and the original pushrod tubes, both were the same length. Also I checked the depth of the original pushrod tube in the cilinder on the top. When you see the clip when the cilinder is on the studbolts there's still a fairly bit gap between the cilinder and the engine, so the rubber compensates the gap good. This way of working was the same on the R80 engine rebuild and didn't had any issues what so ever
thank you so much for this vidio . its given me confedence to have a go at mine ,2nd owner from new almost 100,1000 miles on clock 1981 few leaks brilliant machine if not broke done fix it !!!!
@@corner.custom well it looks really nice and itˋs very robust, but it came at some cost. I got pretty high temperatures (also because I upgraded to the 1000cc Siebenrock Powerkit), so I went for the Oil Pan with the external Oilfilter (Motoren Israel) plus an Oilcooler. That helped.
@@corner.custom Yes, everything. But i took the engine and the gearbox even further apart than you did. Than sealing and blasting everything and than cleaning over cleaning to make sure nothing stays inside.
@thomasrichter1219 This wasn't my engine, I rebuild this for a client. The R100RS build on my channel was mine and I did a full rebuild on the heads and gearbox as well. Great work man 👍🏼
Great video! Have you tried freezing the push rod tubes before inserting? Sometimes the minor change can make the insertion a bit easier. Here in the US, we normally place the pistons into the cylinder from the top, so as to use the taper to make it slightly easier on the rings. On a BMW engine, are the cylinders not tapered quite so drastically? Really loved your video, thanks for creating and sharing. I've never owned a BMW, but I'm looking into purchasing one.
Thanks for the feedback, appreciated! Yes I did put the push rod tubes in the freezer and it helped quite a bit, also by heating up the cylinder. On other R engines I did put the piston in from up top, but I've found it much easier and safer on the rings to go from the bottom, also because the lower end of the cylinder is somewhat taperd. These bikes/engines are a joy to work on. Straight forward and great looks!
Great job! Thank you very much for creating this video. I have a few questions: -The timing chain, have you considered replacing it? I dont know what te replacement interfal is for the chain. -The ultrasonic cleaner you mentioned is a 45-liter variant. However, it seems quite expensive(2/3K!). Do you think a 30-liter variant would suffice? The dimensions I had in mind for the inside of the basket are 430 x 240 x 120 mm. -What led you to choose the 2K coating for the engine itself? Would Cetakote be a suitable alternative? Or is 2K more cost-effective?
Thanks for your comment, appreciated! - The maintenance history was known and up to date. Also this isn't my own engine so I hadn't have to make that decision. - I bought the ultrasonic cleaner for a perfect deal so that's why it's the size that it is. You can easily go for a smaller on, would be more efficient as well when cleaning smaller parts. - On the side of the engine the was heavy wear on the block itself due to rubbing of the centerstand and there for I seconds guessed the adhesion of the Cerakote. There I made the choice to go for 2K paint, also because I rebuild an engine in the same way before. Didn't had anything to do with the costs though!
Great. Watch out when tightening head bolts. Four on each cylinder hold the posts for the valve rockers. The ticking sound flat air heads are famous for can be annoying. It’s not all the valve clearance tapping. I’m sure any end float on the rockers contributes greatly. Should be minimal end float. Some purists may faint but I set zero clearance. Never had a problem and big noise reduction. To do this requires the blocks to be gently squeezed while torquing the head down. I do this by putting a socket either side of the blocks (to clear the rocker shafts) and GENTLY squeezing together with a clamp. Then torque head bolts. Some will say zero lash will not allow lubrication . Reality says it does get lubricant. Very quiet engine when no back lash on rockers and valve clearance are correct.
Great work Sir! So much detail and I appreciate it. Although I missed a few steps, how did you remove the cylinder rods, or I missed them in the video? and did your R100 come with an oil cooler? I'm currently rebuilding an R100RT and this video has been a big help already and boosted my confidence on doing the rebuild on my own. Keep up the good work!
Thanks man, great to hear that this video is helping other enthusiasts to give them enough confidence to give it a try. Just take the time and work step by step. I didn't took out the rods, so that's correct. Also I rebuild this engine for a client, didn't build the whole bike. This engine didn't came with an oil cooler. Good luck and let me know if you have any other questions
@@corner.custom i didn’t mean to use the term “cylinder rods“ lol that was my mistake, what i meant to say was the engine cylinder stud bolts, i didn’t think i see it’s removal process in the video.
@batagventures3435 Ah no worries. Yes I took those out so I could clean/spray the engine. Somewhere near the end of the video I also show that you need to measure the length of the cylinder stud bolt before removing it so you put it back at the correct length 👌🏼
Thank you for that detailed rebuild! great finish! where do you get the cerakotee from? can`t find it in shops, i would like to use a spray gun not a can =/
I did this rebuild for a client and he told me the head were already rebuild prior, so no need to work on that in this case. On my own builds the heads were rebuild, so new valves, valve springs and valve seats
Is it also possible to clean the engine the way you do with the brush when the engine is in the frame? Looking for a way to clean mine haha. I wont be using fuel then obviously but something like brake cleaner or dishsoap with water
you can also put the pushrod tubes in the freezer as well (will shrink the part a small bit) and make installation a bit easier. Also, no cylinder honing ? no valve guides? valve job? new bearings?...
I also did that, but not for too long so didn't really helped. I rebuild this engine for a client and we'd agreed to go this far. The valves had been replaced before it and the cylinders were in good condition
Fantastic video. 😊 Thank you. I had a 1974 R/90 6, and did some of these jobs. This video brings back some great memories. How long did this project take you?
is it regular 95 you use to clean parts ? Also why did you choose a dry sand blaster instead of a wet set up ? Does this have to do with the ceracoating you do?
Yeah most of the time I use the fuel that came with the bike/tank. Because the Cerakote indeed. It needs to be blasted with aluminum oxide to get the correct adhesion
All air head BMWs are easy to rebuild and repair. I put over 200.000 on my R80/7. The Man I sold it to is still riding it without rebuild. He only had to replace the diode board.
They sure are a joy to work with. Love the simplicity of these engines and the classic look that they have. With proper maintenance they sure can come far 💪🏼👍🏼
Klopt het dat je het motorblok zelf niet gestraald hebt? En is dat wel mogelijk? (zonder deze uit elkaar te halen; drijfstang, etc.) Ben nu zelf R100 aan het preppen voor vaporblast. Super bedankt voor je videos; inspirerend en zeer behulpzaam.
Klopt heb het blok niet gestraald. Zou wel kunnen, maar dan zou ik het blok wel geheel leeg maken. Je wilt niet het risico lopen dat je straalgrid in je lagers oid krijgt. Mooi om te horen, komt nog meer how-to videos aan 👍🏼
The cilinders and heads got an Cerakote treatment, so the hot side of the engine. From temperature measurements I know that the oilpan, valve covers etc don't get near enough heat to get in trouble with the paint(spec)
Kijk dat is mooi om te horen. Er staan nog meer how to videos op mijn kanaal over een R100. Bedrijf? Nee ik ben gewoon iemand die dit in zijn vrije tijd doet hah
I worked on this engine for a client and we've agreed to go so far as shown in the video. The heads weren't rebuild as well, but that was all according to his wishes
Ziet er super uit. Ik ben jaloers 😁 en heb 2 vragen: de aluminium oxide heb je daar misschien een linkje van welke je gebruikt, er zijn namlijk verschillende grof/fijn soorten?, en mag ik weten op hoeveel bar de compressor van het blast apparaat staat. Dank je.
Mooi om te horen 👍🏼Gebruik zelf al jaren alu oxide van Powerplustools, doet het prima en dan het liefste de meest grove variant. Compressor heb ik op max druk staan, 8 bar. Tijdens het stralen heb je dan ongeveer 6,5 bar continue
@marcelmarcel8815 Geen probleem 👍🏼Er staan meerdere how-to videos op mijn kanaal met Cerakote behandelingen. Zal voor de nieuwe K12 build een betere how-to maken waarin ik meer uitleg kan geven (over Cerakote)
7 месяцев назад
can I ask somebody’s help, I have a r65 airhead and wondering about the exhaust, do i need to keep it separate or can i just put the two pipes in one ?
Question: Instead of using flammable gasoline inside a shop plus you have arcing from your drill that could possibly ignite the fuel vapors to wash the exterior of the engine why not just spray on pre cleaner like Simple Green or Purple Power let it soak then just pressure wash it ? I will it as clean or cleaner?I have taken parts down to the car wash 100s of times and with the hot pressure water it gets it really clean and you dont have to use Flammable liquids to wash down the out side of the engine .
I get your point and you're not wrong for mentioning it with the arcing that can happen with a drill that has brushes. In my case I have a brushless drill so no worries on that, I did took than into account. This wasn't my own engine, so that's why I was a little bit more precocious than normal 🙂
Hi, just asking to clarify a doubt: isn't cherakote paint made to be a heat insulator? If so, wouldn't it make the cooling of the engine worse since the air wouldn't take off the heat from the heads and cylinders as efficiently as before?
