A big syringe and a piece of clear plastic hose. A little Teflon tape around the bleeder and push the brake fluid up from the slave cylinder to the master. Works every time, no fus no muss no hassel. Good for clutch or brakes. I've been doing it like this for decades.
I find it helpful to clamp the hose at the clutch master cylinder to force the master to bleed, you basically bleed the master by clamping and releasing the hose itself. You will eventually get pressure at the lever, you can then release the air from the clutch bleed screw as usual, Sometimes it is because the master hasn't got the capacity to push the fluid all the way down the hose and upto the bleed nipple. Works for bleeding brakes also, especially dual line systems where you need to clamp one hose off so you can bleed one side at a time.
prawny12009 true but just to note you can damage the hoses inner liner if you crimp to hard and it could give you the feeling of air in the line cause it will expand with pressure. Just for anyone else reading, do cautiously
Thank you for explaining this although i was unable to get pressure on the clutch lever before i decided to bleed the air through the slave cylinder screw instead of my thumb.
Sounds like a "rats nest", pun intended... Bad relay or grounds maybe? This link has some useful tips about light issues; maybe not directly relatable to you, but close. www.motorcycleforum.com/59-motorcycle-repair/102938-flashing-turn-signal-tail-brake-light.html#/topics/102938?page=1
There is an easier way. I purchased an $8 plastic tranfer pump. Attached one line of the pump to my zerk and the other in my fluid. I opened the top side at the screwed on connector slightly. I then attached a clothe around the top connector to catch the fluid coming out. I then used the pump to push fluid up to the connector. After one full pump I could hear bubbles being pushed out. I started a second push and I could no longer hear bubbles. I then tightened the connector all while keeping pressure on the pump. I then gave a good heave. I had to connect my hose using a hose clamp to keep it from coming off with pressure. In my last push on the pump I pushed kinda hard and while holding to the hard pressure I closed my zerk. With everything tight I not only bled my line but I even pressurized the line. And I was done in 5 minutes.
Is the upper banjo bolt necessary if im just wanting to cycle old fluid for new? No rebuilt master or slave. Bike wants to take off with clutch lever fully pinned. Not fully disengaging the trans. Idk if i need to rebuild or just cycle new fluid to get rid of moisture.
I would think you could try pushing new fluid through it as long as you don’t get air in the lines & see if that works. However, that’s exactly what mine was doing, wanted to take off with the clutch fully squeezed. The only fix I found was doing the steps in the video.
i tried this, and made the mistake of pulling the lever to the bar, tore my springs rubber seal. had to rebuild mine. gotta say, mittyvac bleeds the whole system in minutes.
Joshua Folsom the air bubbles up top will tell you initially, and it's really a guess for the bottom. It takes a good 10-15 min of bleeding the bottom for it to be complete, but you will start to notice no air bubbles coming from the bottom & you will notice the clutch starts to get more & more firm.
