I put a turbo from a 1993 6.5L on my 1987 6.2L V20 with NO head studs and 264K + miles on it. Boosting between 5-6 Lbs and still not one problem yet after one year of driving with a turbo on it.
This turbo is putting out between 12 and 15 psi. Was not sure what the boost was going to be so it got head studs anyway. It is a very good set up for the 6.2.
My Civi Model as 52K original miles, 1982 Red block (660 casting) 2.5" lift, 1/2 Ton, 4x4 I get around 18 - 20 city, to 23-25 highway cruising around 55-60.
love the 6.2. I put the heads on the 6.5 and go with the turbo. Last a long time and good MPG. Love the ford 7.3 IDI, easier to work on but bot the same economy.
I get very close to 30 mpg in my 3/4 ton conversion van with a 700 trans. Its time for a refresh though. I love the engine but my neighbors not so much as it's a little loud on cold mornings. The pre cups on a 6.2 are engineered for fuel economy...the 6.5 was changed for more power. Make sure you use a high capacity oil cooler because the 6.2 doesn';t have the piston cooling oil jets?... I believe
Good video! I need some help... I got a 1984 K5 Blazer with a 6.5 diesel swap in there when I bought it. It's been running fine until two weeks ago, the starter was cranking the motor but the motor just wouldn't turn on and it still wont. I have replaced the mechanical fuel pump, fuel return lines, batteries, starter, fuel filter, and glow plugs and still nothing. Any ideas?
It could be you have a lot of air in the lines. Crack all of the injection lines open and crank it a little at a time until you have got fuel running out of them at the injectors. A neighbor of ours had the same problem and he fooled with it for a week until he got all of the air out of the system.
@@matthewrandall6320 thanks! I'll give it a try so am I going to disconnect the lines at the fuel injector or right where the lines meet next to the fuel return lines?
I bought a 1979 Century boat with a 6.2, has Peninsular manifolds and turbo. It has blue smoke real bad, clouds of it. Checked turbo, not leaking, turbo drain is open. Runs strong. Lots of power. Can’t figure out why it’s smoking. Any suggestions?
So the 6.2 head your comparing to the 6.5 head is that a military spec 6.2 head with the flipped pre-cup and larger water jackets or a civilian? I have been trying to find a video talking about the difference between the military spec engine and the civilian engine?
The J code military and J code civilian are the same long block. I keep hearing rumors about this and that being different, but I've only seen year changes or swapped parts on engines not military vs civilian. Some of the external accessories ore different (Alternator, switches etc). Civilian C codes are a bit different.
Might consider draining fluids before disassembly, just saying. My 6.2 is 1982 GMC 72k, manual 4x4 4.10 30" tires, added 6.5 turbo, exhaust down pipe outside the frame rail tucked back in forward of the curbside fuel tank, 19mpg recent 700 mile trip 2500 to 2700 rpm. I got drilled by the goofy first design head that takes a specific head gasket, as did head gaskets and new bolts, fortunately found the problem on the test stand. Later gasket on first design head will leak, believe it's a 82 only application.
Well isn't this nice. I have a 1986 M1009 with a 6.2 I'm planing on rebuilding and putting 6.5 heads and a turbo on. Looking forward to seeing what you do Clay with that rebuild.
He has finished his 6.2 already and it turned out awesome. Better fuel mileage and a mild bit of power increase. Taking it next month to a tractor pull to see what it will do with a sled. There is an old video on here from 2 years ago where he pulled the sled when it was stock. He went about 200 ft with it. If you watch it it is at the end of the video.
They will run fine even if they are cracked don’t change to electronic that’s a clean looking motor I was just looking at my 6.5 i just had to tear mine apart I had a leak it was the stupidest leak ever my own fault I changed the thermostat housing to a double thermostat and it was leaking antifreeze after down the weep hole in the valley I guess we or my buddy didn’t tighten enough so I tore the starter off the intake and the inner fender the down pipe but I fixed the leak so today I’ll put back together suppose to be 3 Celsius which is warm for Canada I’m a little pissed of but did not want a leak I thought it was a head gasket wish I had a military motor but oh well I checked both heads and no water so hopefully it last s a while I took a 96 motor and put it in my 95;dually not my favorite motor but they are awesome on fuel I’d rather have a Cummins I’m a dodge guy but do love my Chevy dually good luck with your motor my friend peace from Canada I got to work out in a snowy driveway that sucks would love your shop
From my understanding there is no difference between the block and heads. I could be wrong. I think the only difference is the accessories and the wiring
Jes of course there isnt distribueres on disels i understand if i sound like an idiot ringht now i work with engines too and theres a lot of engine designs and a couple wierd looking parts too out there ill asume its *NOT* a disributer but an carburater it just looked like a disributer maybe its the angle of the screws that made it look like a disributer, and im pulling this waaaaaaaaaaaaay too far. Ill just shut up. Bye i guess since its late right now... eh............ why am i even still whriting what im thingking..... i really gotta stop i do... but annyways beutifull engine good vid ima subscribe if i havent already😀
Have you had good luck with the Holset clone turbos? If so where did you purchase it/them from? And could I get the contact info for purchase one for my 6.5 diesel rebuild.
We have had very good luck with the Holset clone turbos. They are just cheap turbos that they sell on eBay. We have put them on a 6.5l, a 6.2l and a Cummins 4bt. Have not had any issues with them so far.
I’m not sure but I think the power gain would be more noticeable the more the pump is turned up due to how many time the fuel swirls in the pre cup before entering the cylinder, Ive heard when you turn up the pump on indirect injection diesels you reach a point where the added fuel has trouble making it out of the pre cup because it swirls for too long
@@matthewrandall6320 hi Matthew can I install a 3 bolt torque converter on my 700r4 trans and install it on my 6.2 diesel PS I didn't write the first question correctly woody
@@brookewoody8620 you can use a piece of cardboard to mark the holes and the bell housing shape to see if it will bolt up. Do the same with the flex plate.
@@matthewrandall6320 hey Matthew the issue is I don't have a 6 bolt torque converter like what was originally on it PS it's already working on the truck my concern is will it put more stress on the crank with the high stall and only 3 bolts to the flex plate
Hello i'm from France and working hardly on the renovation of a G20 chevy van from 1982 , can you tell me what is the name and the fonction , of the non plug component , of cooling system at 6, 38 Min where there is your finger , mine is broken , i must order a new one
Hi Matthew ; i'm talking about the component , who is all left of the cylinder head at 6 Min 38 , looks like a sensor not an injector .... What is the bonction of it ? Thanks ..
You would have to find a flex plate that would accept it or get an adapter for it. You can check with Advanced Adapters to see if they have something that will make it work. www.advanceadapters.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiAv6yCBhCLARIsABqJTjZ0ipQ9oW6OBEA37IlwPz113VFYQWvgPb5bO0IHR-XDasw314uQPFYaAhaLEALw_wcB
@@acetomatocompany there are a lot of the 2 stroke diesels made by Detroit. This is one that Detroit made with GM. They made two of these starting in the early 80s. They made a 6.2l and later in the early 90s they came out with a 6.5l. They were used in a lot of military and marine applications also.
Look on the passenger side of the block. There is a short set of numbers towards the front. Not sure if these are the numbers you are looking for or not.
Nice I got one in my k1500, Turbo , Headstudded, bigger injectors, IP turned up, under load 14-15lb of boost, not a hiccup yet at 250k follow me @glockadan on IG to see pics of my truck, 6inch lift on 38s professional painjob
Why do you need to rebuild these engines? I wanted a C30 Detroit in change for my V1500 305 but I often see that these American engines get rebuild all the time. I haven't known anyone needing to rebuild an Audi engine even with 550.000km on it. I certainly never had to and I own 6 Audis currently and owned 30+ over the last 10 years with not one having less than 200.000km on it. Cracks in the head or block...Something I only know from 60s and 70s cars. To be fair, the engine is as old.
They are called Detroit Diesel because GM began its diesel engine manufacturing in Detroit and the division of GM is called Detroit Diesel Division. There are some old Detroit Diesel blocks that have in the casting GM Detroit Diesel. I have seen those on some tractors. So basically GM and Detroit Diesel are the same. That is why when the Detroit Diesel was replaced in the Humvee it was replaced with a Duramax.
@@matthewrandall6320 looking at your video, it looks like that block has the rear oil seal built into the rear main cap... If so, that is an early model 6.2, and the crank and block is junk.. a turbo is a no-no .. for sure, no more than 3 or 4 pounds of boost..
@@KBS117 if it is an early one, it was made right. Runs great, pulls great, has been running on up to 12 lbs of boost. We may have just got that one that defies all the characteristics of the others. Not gonna junk it. 👍
It is actually. Some ads that GM ran back in the day over the 6.2 diesel specifically mentions it as a "Detroit Diesel 6.2 litre" and every ad that ran GM trucks from 1982 onwards mentioned the GM trucks ran motors designed by other GM divisions.
how much did you take off before yanking the block? my 83 6.2l has a knock that develops after it warms up and is pushing blue smoke out the passenger side tail pipe. starts up with white, then after it warms up it starts running blue after the white clears up. im leaning toward taking the passenger side head off... suggestions?
