Thank you for doing this work. The schematic is hard to read with out knowing what the parts look like. I have a 1982 C 10 305 that I inherited with every hose dry rotted. I was able to put new hoses all around and clean things up. Running like a champ now. Much much appreciated!
I just started my journey on the restoration of a'73 Corvette Big Block. This was far earlier than any electrical servos. Thank you for the logical approach to trouble shooting the seeming maze of hoses. Thanks again.
Thank you tons! I found the transmission one just hanging with part of a hose! Now when you traced out the first one before it goes in the L carborator mine has a T and goes to the side of my Decel
I remember my ‘86 when under the hood was all original, MY GOD looked like a octopus throwed it’s tentacles all over the top of it, how the motor breathed I’ll never know. I wish there was a such thing as RU-vid back then. Anyway it’ll breathe for sure today, I done away with every single dang vacuum line that was just nothing but nonsense smog junk. Atleast I can see the engine now, even the original breather on mine back in ‘86 was a job to take off lol.. 👍🏼 Every option my 86 Silverado came with from the factory still works like new today.. Gotta love the big old cruise control diaphragm under the hood, bud it’s still there working lol.
It's crazy, those older square bodies have more vacuum hoses and emissions stuff than my 1988 Chevy 1500 5.7 350 TBI! I have maybe 5 vacuum hoses on the whole engine.
This was a great video. The only thing I'd like to add that I noticed was missing are the common hose sizes. Mine still have a lot of the GM printed paint and plastic on them so the sizes I am seeing are as follows: 5/32 - small hose from carb to Ts and Ys etc 7/32 - medium hose from tvs and other components 1/4 - larger hoses coming off the cannister There are probably other sizes as well in the mix but these are the sizes I need to replace. I am finding some trouble in some of the OEM Ts and Ys having different sizes inlets and outlets (like a 5/32 on one end and two 7/32 on the other two ends). I'm finding the straight reducers are easier to source so instead of trying to find super custom sizes like the OEM to just use a little straight section of hose and step it down with a 5/32 to 7/32 straight connector. Good luck everyone!
fwiw to anyone that reads this, you're going to need more 5/32 than any other from what I've found. They charge $1.59 per foot at autozone when you can buy a 50 foot spool of gates from Amazon. 10 feet of each length I ran out of 5/32 pretty quick and still have about 3 more connections to patch.
When I was in the process of checking and replacing vacuum lines on my truck,my area Napa helped me out. Not only did they have different sizes of hard plastic lines,but some rubber lines I wanted to replace,that I couldn't see the size stencil on them any longer,I took a piece of ea in to them,and they found out the sizes w micrometers,and hooked me up w the rubber line also. Helped out more that I thought! Both hard plastic and rubber lines were on a spool,but it was sold by,either,the ft or 3 ft. I can't remember now. food for thought
@@yolo-qr2fq Been a while since I worked on a square body - maybe thermal vacuum switch? The chunk coming out of the intake that provides the vacuum sources for all the different emissions accessories.
Exactly as found on my 100% stock 1985 C10. I'll be replacing the intake and heads on my truck but don't look forward to removing most of the smog gear.
I bought an 84 Sierra 2500 with the 350 in Nov of 2019, and it had been sitting for 5 years, but all the emissions canister, lines etc were removed. I picked up a complete canister from an 86-87 C10, to replace everything, but there is no decal for the hose routing. I've tried to get one online but nobody has them. I also changed to an Edelbrock carburetor since the Quadrajet was shot. Any way of getting the diagram for my truck?
This may help 67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=682969 I would also recommend finding one for sale online and asking that person to take some photos of the diagram for you too. Good luck
If you're missing the distributor delay valve, the parts stores have a very hard time finding it. Its the 2 input 2 output that goes between the ported vacuum switch out of the thermostat housing and the air pump/distributor section (left). You will see more of that in the second video on Luke's Garage. ACDelco 214-2037, once again fractions of the cost the parts stores are asking on Amazon. you may only have this if yours is 50 state emissions like my 1983 K5 Blazer is.
I can't find the distriduter delay valve 4 port I seen other modles with the top one can converted to a y and go in to a one top and 2 on bottom. Can that be done
I just took a few samples off the ends of each hose to the auto store and had them cut lengths for me.3/16", 1/4" and 3/8" are common pretty common sizes.
Thanks for the video. How necessary are most of these lines? All I ever see is them deleted. Mine runs but my choke brake isn't hooked up and now it wouldn't function properly.
@mechanic life I’m trying to figure out how to realign my a/c heat and defroster Ligns/ cruise control I have an 84 Chevy c- code with 700r4 I’ve had no luck and am stumped when looking under hood 😢 from what I can tell there was a about a hose coming off my vac pump where distributor would be on a gasser and was plugged with a bolt. A T tying into the cruise control another line going to a inlet or outlet on rear passenger side by what looks like it’s right beside a fuel inlet going from fuel filter into engine and the 3rd line goes around to the front passenger side and is tied into lift pump mounted on bottom passenger side of engine I can’t wrap my head around why that is hooked up like that 😵💫 also a hose coming off one of the relays (egr or per idk the difference) was plugged with a bolt alike to the vaccum pump rear engine and I assume those two lines are connected to those same fittings and the egr and per relays are just all screwed up as far as hose routing goes I just know when I purchased the truck it blew cold ac and still does but I did a little digging under the dash because it barely has in blow strength and notice my vent doors do not work I know the vaccum system is the main reason why by I have looked high and low and even researched and understand how it all works but the routing under the hood is elementary lol also I’ve seen a diagram and there seems to be an epr junction box that should be mounted on the driver side but it is non existent on my vehicle again idk if the diagram is for a 6.2 setup but I discovered on a 6.2 forum and I know the variations in vaccum setups are different for both th400 and 700r4 transmissions
Another great video, quick question for you... do you think it would be worthwhile to simply rip out all the vacuum lines and replace them, reusing the connectors? It seems like on an early or mid eighties van like mine most of them are crumbling... Are vacuum lines a place where you don’t want to cheap out on parts, and any tips for the stuff that passes through the dash?
I am fan of just replacing them as you go. The bigger lines can get expensive, but the small ones are cheap. The connectors are cheap too and tend to break/fracture.
That would be ID for those measurements? The price at my brick and mortar is triple what summit etc want with shipping. Makes it hard to buy local when you’re getting screwed that blatantly
Great video man, thanks. You covered just about everything I was searching for, just about lol. Not sure if you're still monitoring this or not but I've got a question that i think you can help me with......I swapped a TH400 I got out of an 86 Suburban into my 92 K1500 which was originally a 5-speed manual and everything works relatively well but I'm concerned about where I should be pulling vacuum from so i dont harm my engines performance. i noticed that after 15-20 mins of driving that my Service Engine Soon Light comes on and the truck starts to fall on its face. Any insight would be very much appreciated. Again thanks for this video, it showed me a lot.
I think the first one is what I'm messing with..it's kinda crusty..had trimmed it when I got the winnie. Ran good made it home..got new everythig..changed Sparks n plugs and hoses .oil change filter..new alternator and belts...sounda great now...full diagnosis and Xtra little stuff..passed inspectionmm lol but they didn't drive it. Sooo..it started backfiring at 30-35mph.my question:.IS that the vaccume hose..that didn't get replaced? All the others look new .I have it connected in length by a bigger tube..but I think it's the dried rubber..probably at the connect that I can't see😆? I goin fore it. Granny's going fore it. It's hard to see that little connected deal under the carb.gotta be it... Chevy p30 350 Minnie winnie.q2..por favir .how do ya know if a seals been blown?
Hmm i am gonna swap out my 1983 305 v8 with a Brand new 350 v8. And i am gonna rip out all the vakumlines and put a new carb on it. Do i need to put a knocksensor on the new engine? Because i dont want the electric spark kontroll on the new one.. and what exaclty do i need vakuum to go to? I know i need from breakbooster til carb, and from the automaticgearbox to carb, and to the HEIDistributor , but what more needs vakum? I want to remove AS much AS possible.. thanks for any answers.
So I got a 1982 c30 dually with a 350 in it and it doesn't have a canister. Does anyone have a diagram for it? Maybe with pictures as well. Not educated at all it terms of engine terminology so pictures are great.
My 400 small block blew up in my 1979 GMC Seairah classic. And i Just got new to me 400 small block installed. any ways I was so lost what those two lines by the steering box where your a life saver. I got pictures of the truck if anyones interested.
You can get rid of a bunch of it. If you have to pass a smog test dont touch any of it, but it you dont like it is here in Montana most of it can go. Video below is a pretty good idea on what you can chop. ru-vid.com/video/%D0%B2%D0%B8%D0%B4%D0%B5%D0%BE--UrrprMYMnI.html
